OS Landranger Sheet 80
Map reference: NGR NY920838
Aid Crag lies north west of Great Wanney. The crag consists of a long string of
isolated buttresses with a quarried area in the middle. About four dozen routes
have been recorded but the majority are short and vegetated. A few of the better
routes are listed below, working from east to west. When approaching the Wanneys
on the Forestry track, keep to this as it swings round above Aid Crag. The crag
is not visible but break off to the right when opposite the small lough and the
top is soon reached. The walk in from Ridsdale is a good alternative, following
the track by the mobile phone masts. There is a right of access to the crag
under CRoW.
The climbs are described from left to right. The first big buttress has a huge
poised boulder on top and contains three cracks.
1. Cabbala 9m VS 4c
The left crack which has a kink right.
2. Cosmic Egg 8m MS
The central main crack.
3. Ankh 8m VS 5a
The thin right hand crack.
The quarry contains
the following:-
4. Quaker 11m D
A route up the wall on the east side of the quarry.
5. Shaker 11m S 4b
The overhanging crack just to the right with poor protection and loose rock.
6. Faker 12m MVS 4c
Start beneath a small overhang in the central wall (arrow in rock). From a
niche move right and up to a ledge. Continue up and right to a bulging wall and
finish up left.
7. Just a Little
Green 10m E2 5c
The green wall on the right hand side of the quarry. Better than it looks.
8. Sick, Sick, Sick
(The Beast) 10m E1 5a
The unstable looking flake right of Green Wall is as unstable as it looks.
9. Hypotenuse 14m
VD
The long buttress bounding the quarry on the right. A good climb. Go up the
short arête, work across a wall to the right and finish up the crack.
The next buttress
contains a recess. This can be climbed by the left crack or up the narrow wall,
both Mild Very Severe. Further along is a buttress with two easy chimneys. The
wall at the right end is Very Difficult. The next buttress has an overhang atop
it. The bulging left wall is Severe and the right end past the overhang is Very
Difficult.
Further right is a
small buttress consisting of a slab topped by a rib which has a clean crack just
left.
10. Thompsons Rib
7m E1 5b *
Climb the slab, pull up to the foot of the short rib which is followed to
the top.
Further right is a
higher quarried area with a thin crack on its right hand side.
11. Guilty 8m HVS
5a
Climb the crack, on doubtful rock and suspicious protection.
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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