WESTERN GRIT by Chris Craggs and Alan James, Published by Rockfax, Reviewed by Karin Magog

Before I start this review I feel I should point out that this is an area of the country that I have little experience of.  Apart a couple of brief visits to The Roaches back in my student days I haven’t climbed at any of the crags in the guide.  However, that may change after pouring through the latest Rockfax and seeing all this large area has to offer.

The guide is divided into seven geographical areas, Staffordshire Grit, Windgather Area, Kinder Scout, Bleaklow, Chew Valley, Lancashire and the Cheshire Sandstone.  Each section is introduced with the now standard double-page photo and is accompanied with a general map marking the crags in that section.  Each individual crag has a more detailed map, a brief introduction, approach, a paragraph on conditions and a table which summarises the number and quality of routes in each grade band.  As you would expect with Rockfax the guide offers clear photo-topos with accompanying route descriptions.  The lay-out appears more spaced out and less cluttered than some of their other, more recent guides, better to have a few more pages and a clear, concise guide, than to produce a more crowded, but slightly less bulky guide.  One thing I really liked about the guide was the good number of action shots, which represented the full spread of grades on offer and the fantastic settings of many of the crags (good examples being the photos of Hanging Crack at Dovestones Edge and Ivory Tower at Kinder South, to name just two.)

No Rockfax would be complete without the usual detailed introduction, info on accommodation, local pubs, etc.  There’s also a selected graded list based on grade voting on the Rockfax Route Database, and a useful route index at the back of the guide. All in all another classy Rockfax production which showcases the delights this vast area has to offer. Western Grit by Chris Craggs and Alan James is be available now, price £21.95.  More reviews here. Reviewed 7th July 2009

Western Grit

Young climbers enjoy first taste of success in Arco, Italy. The weekend of June the 6th and 7th saw North East climbers Jack Graham 9yrs, and Mairi Teasdale 10yrs competing in the prestigious Rock Junior under 14 cup in the fabulous town of Arco, Italy.

For both youngsters it was there first trip to Europe to compete with others their age from around the world. The competition included three disciplines with an overall winner. These were firstly speed climbing, which both Jack and Mairi had no previous experience of. Secondly bouldering, which was in a very different format to what the pair had previously experienced. They had 30 minutes to complete 5 problems with around 35 other competitors in their categories, which proved, time wise impossible. lastly they had two top rope climbs, one Saturday, the second Sunday. Both climbs being extremely difficult on the very steep Arco competition walls.

However despite all of this they both performed brilliantly returning home with some fantastic results. Jack coming 10th in the boys B category and Mairi 7th in the girls B category. Both were extremely pleased with their new global rankings and are already talking of returning next year. Reported 27th June 2009

Relaxanation is now offering seated massages at Newcastle International Airport. You can find them in the departure lounge next to Cafe Ritazza. Unwind after the stress of packing all your climbing gear into 15kg! Relax and chillout while Relaxanation get those last minute shoulder and neck niggles sorted out before your flight. Reported 24th June 2009

Heckley Crag Access Restriction. The informal access arrangements that climbers have enjoyed at Heckley Crag have been suspended by the owner (Duke of Northumberland). Check the BMC access database (RAD) for the latest access updates. Climbing should not attempt to go there until further notice.  "I'm hoping to negotiate re-establishment of access later this summer (but to be honest I'm not optimistic about my chances of success)." Richard Pow June 2009 Reported 21st June 2009

Open Season at Ravensheugh. Graeme has also added yet another 3 star route at Ravensheugh, this time climbing through the slopers to give Childhoods End a spectacular and hard direct finish. Graeme has suggested a grade of E6 6b/c-ish. Graeme Read also recently capped a fantastic day up at Ravensheugh with perhaps the second ascent of Crocodile Arête. "Its a fantastic time to be at the crag. There were actually more people at Ravensheugh today than Simonside, 25 at least, that's got to be a first! Bowden Doors must have been closed or something!" Graeme Read. Ben Gilbert made the third ascent a week later and they both consider the grade to be E6 6b. Below is a list of all the routes at the crag which have either been climbed or have been cleaned;
Plumbline
Judas Hole
Pendulum
Octopus
Reiver
Smarty Pants
Half Minute Crack
Crocodile Arête
Candle in the Wind
Gates of Eden
First Among Equals
Ravensheugh Crack
Childhoods End
Wild West Show
Hang em High
Grease
Plumber
Elsewhere in Northumberland Dave Birkett made what is probably the second ascent of Greenford Road Direct. Greenford Road was first climbed by Tommy Smith in 1980 and the direct start was added by Karl Telfer soon after thinking he was repeating Tommy route! Mark Savage soloed Karl Telfer's direct line in 2003. Dave Birkett lead the direct line placing gear higher up but chose not to place the runner in Sandy Crack. Reported 1st June 2009

 

Gordale Climbing Restrictions have been lifted. The Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority have now lifted the nesting restriction covering a number of routes at Gordale Scar. The birds may be nesting elsewhere at the crag, so please check the RAD for any updates Here. Unaffected by the restrictions the popular (Extreme Rock tick) Cave Route Right Hand was climbed and cleaned recently and the tat has been replaced. At least one set of wires is essential to back up the pegs. Reported 27th May 2009

ROXCOOL is a professional instructional business based in the North East of England who specialise in climbing and mountaineering courses but also offer opportunities for adventures throughout the world. Roxcool are providers of both climbing related National Governing Body awards, such as the Climbing Wall Award (CWA) and Single Pitch Award (SPA), as well as offering technical self improvement courses relating to safe systems used in climbing and mountaineering situations. Roxcool also provide a guiding service so you can enjoy and access some of the classic climbs and scrambles of The Lake District. Although the company name is new Cliff Lowther has been involved in the delivery of these courses for many years and have many satisfied customers. Read more on the Roxcool website. Reported 22nd May 2009

Half Term Rock Stars at Durham Climbing Centre. Children's Classes will be running everyday - Mon 25th May - Friday 29th May
Bookings Taken Now! 3 - 7 years 12.00pm - 1.00pm. 8 - 12 years 1.00pm - 2.30pm. Phone 0191 3789555 to book. Bank Holiday Opening hours are: SAT 23rd 10AM - 9PM, SUN 24th 10AM - 8PM, MON 25th 10AM - 7PM.  More details can be found here. Reported 20th May 2009

Solid Performance buy the North East Team.  The BMC are hosting a round of the European Youth Cup at Ratho in September, and held a selection day for aspiring entrants on Saturday 8th May. Several young local climbers took part, and as a result, Alistair Pow and Dan Walton have been selected to represent Great Britain at this event in September. Ben is already an aspirant member of the British Junior team, due to his achievements at previous selection days. Three others, Beth Walton, Sam Brannigan and Ben Patterson have been not yet been selected, but included in the squad from which the final team will be chosen. In the words of Jane Newman – “Ali surprised them all, a stunning performance, easily the best”. Ali flashed the first two routes so was in the lead before the final. Coming last out of isolation he moved smoothly through the crux at half height that had stopped all the rest, except fellow NE climber Ben Patterson. He pressed on passing Ben’s high point and was within one move of topping out. (Established GB team member Shauna Coxsy was the only junior to send that route). It was a great North East performance. As Adam Watson said “Tell Ali good effort! And to the whole NE team – so psyched for everyone”.  Reported 14th May 2009

The Bouldering Series at Durham Climbing Centre was a great success with a huge turn out. All categories were competing on the same 40 excellent problems and that showed some surprising statistics in the overall results. Junior Jamie Naden put in an excellent performance to post the best score on the night with an awesome 307 points. Meanwhile Vet Steve Crowe made second place with 289 scraping in just two points ahead of Andrew Dixon. Karin Magog was first in the Female category and came in joint forth place overall with Robert Gowdy with a tally of 274 points. The results from all the rounds can be found here. Reported 14th May 2009

The Third Round of the Bouldering Series at Durham Climbing Centre is on Friday 8th May from 5.30pm until 9.30pm. This round is sponsored by Boreal and the problems will be set by Ian Vickers, Jamie Cassidy & Andy Chapman. Even more volumes have been added with a complete reset in advanced wall area. You can finish off your session on the brand new Beastmaker fingerboard! The results from rounds one and two can be found here. Reported 7th May 2009

BMC are to run Two National Climbing Competitions in the summer of 2009. Entries are now open for the two premier British climbing championships:  The British Bouldering Championships will take place at the Cliffhanger outdoors festival in Sheffield on 11-12 July. The following weekend the British Lead Climbing Championships will take place at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena on 18-19 July. More details here. Rob Adie, BMC Competitions Officer comments “Entries are now open so if you think you’ve got what it takes to compete, then why not enter? We look forward to welcoming new and established competitors." Application forms are available to download at www.thebmc.co.uk/blcc and www.thebmc.co.uk/bbc. Reported 5th May 2009

Western Grit by Chris Craggs and Alan James is now in stock at Rockfax and will be available from climbing shops very soon. ORDER NOW RRP £21.95 with FREE delivery in the UK. The crags covered will be similar to the last edition with a few new buttresses and the less cramped coverage contributing an extra 100 pages to the book. The complete list is below but it ranges from the popular Staffordshire gritstone edges of the Roaches, Hen Cloud and Ramshaw up onto the remote Kinder and Bleaklow moorland crags. Also contained are the superb Chew Valley edges, the best of the Lancashire crags and the fine sandstone buttresses on Merseyside of Helsby, Pex Hill and Frodsham. Reported 2nd May 2009

Western Grit

New Routes and Impressive Repeats! Down in Yorkshire, Karin Magog has made a successful ascent of Climb of the Century F8b at Malham Cove. "My new Beastmaker finger board is paying dividends already." Over in Borrowdale Andy Mitchell has recently made a cool ascent of Bleed in Hell E8 on Hell's Wall in Borrowdale. Meanwhile  up in Northumberland Ed Brown has added a direct finish to Hard Shoulder on Goats Crag. l'anglais parfait  at Font 7b/7b+ is a long way above a perfect landing! "I thought it was absolutely brilliant, very similar to Angle Parfait in Font but a bit higher." Ed Brown. On the North York Moors Luke Hunt has made the first free ascent of the old aid line at Eston Nab. "It goes at a pumpy (but safe with the pegs) E4 6b. It is a bit sandy at the bottom but the upper moves are really lovely and dynamic." Luke Hunt. Andrew Yeadon and friends have provided descriptions for the bouldering at Lamb Hill. Although the walls have been climbed on for many years they have never been properly recorded. If you have anything to add then get in touch. Finally Jonny Taylor got in touch to report that a crucial hold has broken off The Mauler at Causey Quarry. "I suspect this may have affected the tech grade a bit (I consider that move off the traverse to be the crux), and I reckon it will definitely have an impact on the grade if the scar where it snapped off becomes polished." Jonny Taylor. Cliff Lowther (MIA) was running a Roxcool course up at Bowden Doors and found one Boreal climbing shoe at the entrance into the field. Please contact him on 0776 5927633 to arrange for its return.  Reported 29th April 2009

CLIMB newcastle Spring Bouldering Comp was a terrific success. After 35 keenly contested problems the top climbers progressed to a final at 9pm. Men and Women came out of isolation one at a time to competed on three desperate problems in front of a loud and supportive crowd. Nigel Callender and Karin Magog were the ultimate victors of a sensational final. Well done to the setters and competitors alike for a superb evening. Full report and results can be found here now. Reported 25th April 2009

Durham Climbing Centre now stock Five Ten Rock Shoes. New styles include 5.10 Anasazi VCS, 5.10 Galilleo, 5.10 Anasazi LV and just for kid's 5.10 Mini Mocc's. Also arriving shortly Boreal Joker, Boreal Mutant, Boreal Luna and Boreal Crux. More info here. Reported 24th April 2009

WINTER CLIMBING +

by Ian Parnell and Neil Gresham

Published by Rockfax

Reviewed by Karin Magog
Third of the series, this is a very comprehensive book from Rockfax covering everything you need to know about winter climbing.  It’s written by Ian Parnell and Neil Gresham who have a vast amount of experience behind them.  Ian is perhaps better known for his mountaineering exploits, whereas Neil brings good knowledge of the more modern mixed climbs.  They are also both familiar with the infamous Scottish winter climbing and ice climbing. Like previous publications, such as sports climbing +, this is a well laid out, easy to read book.  It is well-illustrated with photographs, both action and technical, and sports a few interesting anecdotes.  The book is divided into ten chapters: - starting out, equipment, mountain safety, ice (style and ethics), ice (techniques), mixed (style and ethics), mixed (techniques), the mind, training and destinations.  As someone who dabbled in winter climbing a few years ago I found the section on equipment particularly fascinating.  I hadn’t realised that some axes were more suited to ice or mixed, that clipper leashes existed (mine are fixed) and that crampons could be changed from dual to mono point.  This section alone was invaluable in bringing me up to date and refreshing my knowledge.  Mountain Safety was also well written and seems to cover all the basics.  For more in depth knowledge there are several books out there dedicated to this subject alone.  The main chapters on the two different types of winter climbing are a mine of information and I’m sure even the most experienced winter climber could learn something here, being a bit of a winter climbing punter I was a bit overwhelmed to be honest.  I was more at home reading the two sections on the mind and training as much of it applies to climbing in general.  The final section covers that all important question ‘where to go?’  Scotland is the biggest UK destination and is covered in the most detail accordingly.  Other areas include Wales, the Lake District, France, Italy, Switzerland, Norway, USA, Canada and Quebec. All in all an impressive publication which should appeal to both those just starting out in winter climbing and the more experienced climber alike. More Reviews here.

The largest bouldering centre in the UK... in Leeds. Opening to the public on Saturday 4th April The Depot is set in a huge old bus depot the facility is set to offer a world class bouldering centre in a unique environment. Hundreds of problems will make up circuits for all abilities with the grade ranging from font 3+ through to 7c+. About 190 problems have been set so far with more added all the time. Large cafe/seating area with a good view of the action. Well stocked shop with all the climbing essentials. Phase Two will include a route style area offering extended problems, allowing climbers to work on their route fitness without the need for rope and belayer. Also coming soon is combination of system boards, campus boards, Olympic rings, weights and 50 degree training board and a Weights/conditioning room with cardio facilities. The Depot is situated on Richardshaw Lane, Stanningley, just 200m from Stanningley by-pass. It is within easy striking distance from both Leeds and Bradford, the centre can be easily reached via both private and public transport. More information here: The Depot. Read more comments on UKC. Reported 28th March 2009

Barnard Castle climbing wall has proved so popular it is being extended, just five months after opening. Almost 5000 people of all ages and abilities have already visited Teesdale District Council’s leisure centre in Barnard Castle. From mid March a further 111m of climbing surface is being added to the existing 295m, creating extra challenges for established climbers and increased wall space to cater for demand. The new section will incorporate more slabs, verticals and surfaces of varying angles, along with chockstone chimney and hand jamming cracks to challenge various styles of climbing technique. “The wall has exceeded expectations”, says Teesdale District Council’s Lead Member for Health, Councillor Keith Stansfield. “We knew it was something local people wanted, but the amount of interest it has generated has been immense. The quality of the equipment, coupled with the expertise and enthusiasm of our staff, has brought a new activity to a wide range of users, which is fantastic.” More information is  available from the leisure centre and from www.teesdaleleisure.org.uk  Reported 24th March 2009

SCOTTISH ROCK VOLUMES 1and 2 by Gary Latter

Reviewed by Karin Magog
This pair of selected guides cover between them a vast proportion of the Scottish mainland and its associated Northern and Western Isles.  First out was Volume 1, which encompasses the area north of the Highland Boundary Fault but south of Skye and Torridon. There are eleven main areas described, these being Isle of Arran, The Arrochar Alps, Isle of Mull, Glen Coe & Glen Etive, Ardgour, Ardnamurchan, Glen Nevis, Ben Nevis, Central Highlands, The Cairngorms and finally Easter Ross.  The more recent Volume 2 covers ten areas, Skye, Applecross, Torridon, Gairloch, Coigach & Assynt, Sutherland, Caithness, Lewis & Harris, Pabbay & Mingulay and finally Orkney.

The guide has an entertaining and informative introduction with headings such as Using the Guide, Accommodation, Eating Out, Access, Wild Camping, Caravans (very amusing), Birds, Seasonal Restrictions, Directions, Conservation, Ethics, Style, Quality Assessment, Climate, Tidal Information, Weather Information, Wee Bastards (aka midges and ticks), Mountain Rescue and Grades.  Following this in Volume 1 is a section on geology and as someone who’s always amazed at the vast array of different rock to be climbed in the UK I found this particularly interesting (Scotland has some of the oldest rock in the UK, as well as the best, Lewisian Gneiss being the first to spring to mind).  Each short paragraph describes how the rock was formed, what its like to climb and where it’s found in Scotland.

Now onto the climbing areas themselves and each of the sections start with a good, overall map (more detailed maps follow if required), a short intro, info on accommodation and amenities and a brief but informative history.  Next the routes and the guide is well served throughout with clear photo diagrams (an excellent effort given some of the territory the guide covers), as well as detailed written descriptions.  Presented in a well laid out, generally uncluttered style means the guide is a pleasure to use.  The route numbers in the text and diagrams appear in a coloured dot, the colour of which signifies a particular grade range e.g. green for moderate to severe, purple for E4 and above.  This makes identifying crags of interest much easier when flicking through the guide.  Amazingly each grade range is well served so whether you’re after long, multi-pitch severes or hard, technical extremes there’s enough here to satisfy even the most manic of climbers.  There’s also plenty of action pictures which are well placed in the text and cover the full range of grades and styles of climbing on offer (amazingly the sun always seems to be shining).  The cover photograph of Volume 1 is an interesting choice but highlights the diversity Scotland has to offer, whereas the cover of Volume 2 has me booking my ferry to Lewis and dreaming of sun drenched rock.  Each volume stands at almost 500 pages and describing 1670 and 2400 routes respectively they offer amazing value for money.  It also means they’ll be heavy to carry up those multi-pitch mountain routes but I reckon that’s a small price to pay.

Being particularly familiar with many of the areas in Volume 2 I can testify to the excellent job that Gary has done.  I was browsing through the book with sweaty palms and exclamations of ‘we must get back there’, ‘that crag looks amazing’, ‘I would love to do that route’, etc.  All in all two superb publications that Gary deserves to be proud of.  It might have taken him 12 years to produce these guides but they were certainly worth the wait.  His love and knowledge of climbing in Scotland are present throughout the guides and help make them truly inspiring.  Available direct from Pesda Press and all good climbing shops. Get your copies now.

Ron Fawcett Interviewed by Ed Douglas at ShAFF. This time tomorrow night Big Ron Fawcett, greatest rock climber on the planet in the 70's will kick off proceedings at ShAFF. Ron hasn't taken to the stage in some 15 years so don't miss him and have to wait another 15 years! Other last minute ShAFF news: although ShAFF ticket sales are up overall, we've decided to drop the price of tickets to the Great British Grade Debate with the BMC to half price (that's £5 from £10). Full details available on the website www.shaff.co.uk Reported 26th February 2009

The Climbing Works International Festival, 7 March 2009.

The Climbing Works International Festival is:

 

	The ONLY international bouldering event in the UK in 2009.
	The ONLY bouldering event where you can try a circuit of 30 problems ranging from easy to desperate alongside international and national champions
	The ONLY bouldering event that gives you just about everything for free:

-          free BBQ,

-          free stand up routine from Niall Grimes

-          free scorecard for the competition, just pay your normal entry fee to The Climbing Works

	The ONLY bouldering event in the UK this year with over £4299.99 of prize money
	The ONLY bouldering comp in the UK that gives Gaz Parry his entire winnings in 1p & 2p’s (although other may copy this idea)
	The ONLY bouldering event that has a prize for the best hairstyle & ‘best’ dressed team
	The ONLY bouldering event to be route-set by Jacky Godoffe (his other job this year is the World Championships)

For starters it’s like a normal bouldering league with a circuit of 30 problems ranging from pretty easy to the living end. The top 16 scores from the initial circuit then go through to the semi final (starting at 1530) when the real competition begins. The finals will be at 1930 following a FREE barbeque and a FREE stand up routine from the one and only Niall Grimes.

And how much does it cost to enter the CWIF. Well not much, in fact only your normal entry fee to The Climbing Works. There is no official entry fee for Teams but we do suggest that each Team contributes £5 to the Edale Mountain Rescue Team.

There is a total of £4300 in prize money which includes a £500 prize for the best Team – the Team competition is based on the scores from the qualification circuit. Teams must have 4 climbers and be mixed. There will be special prizes for the ‘Best Dressed Team’ (NB best is a very subjective word), the best Vets Team (Vets = over 40) and the best quiff at the CWIF.

So far we have got some pretty big names coming to the CWIF including the current European Champion, Monsieur Jerome Meyer, and the whole Dutch Team as well as a certain Mr Andrew Earl coming out of retirement just so he can get his hands on our lovely lolly. We are still waiting for confirmation from a few other superstars.

So come on down and have a go at the CWIF, the qualification circuit is open to everyone and we would love to see people of abilities have a go and enjoy the day. Stay on afterwards to watch Grimer and enjoy the free BBQ, all ready for the hardcore finals in the evening. The Works will be opening especially early for the CWIF.

Registration and warm-up starts at 0800 and the qualification round starts at 0900. End time for qualifying for the semi’s and team overall prize is 1400.You can still climb the circuit for the rest of the day and hand in your scorecard for the chance to win the ‘best dressed team’ and the chance to win raffle prizes.

See http://www.climbingworks.com/events/CWIF09/  for full details.

The CWIF’09 is supported by Holdz, 5 Finger Thing, The Clinic and Metolius.

For further information contact Graeme Alderson at The Climbing Works.

0114 2509990

www.climbingworks.com