Rally called to Save Lakeland’s Forests. Organisers of a campaign to stop the Government selling off the Lake District’s publicly owned forests have announced plans for a rally in Grizedale Forest at 1pm on Sunday 30th January. The Government is about to launch a consultation on selling off England’s public forests, including more than 30 forests and woodlands across the Lake District such as Grizedale, Whinlatter and Ennerdale. Legislation is also going through Parliament that would give ministers the power to sell off all the forests currently managed by the Forestry Commission. The rally will hear speeches from Lord Clark of Windermere, a former Chairman of the Forestry Commission and the chair of the All Party Group on Forestry in Parliament; Eric Robson who is the Chairman of Cumbria Tourism and the Wainwright Society; Jack Ellerby from Friends of the Lake District; and the chair of Save Lakeland’s Forests Paul Townsend. Lord Clark says: “This is a great opportunity to send a signal to the Government, MPs and members of the House of Lords about the strength of opposition to selling off the public forests. This is not just about the Government’s consultation. The more urgent need is to do everything possible to change the Public Bodies Reform Bill to stop ministers being able to sell off these forests; and the first chance to do that will be in the House of Lords in the next few weeks. “I urge as many people as possible to come to Grizedale Forest on Sunday 30th of January - walkers, mountain bikers, families, and people walking their dogs - just as millions of people do in our public forests every year. If we don’t stand up now and show how much these wonderful green spaces mean to us we risk losing them forever.” The rally will take place on the meadow next to the main car park at Grizedale near Hawkshead. Eric Robson says: “Selling off the public forests in the Lake District would be a disaster for tourism in this beautiful corner of the country and for biodiversity. Whatever ministers try to tell us, they cannot guarantee the same level of public access to these forests if they are sold off or the same high standards of environmental protection. Trying to suggest otherwise is simply misleading.” After the speeches people will be encouraged to write comments about what the public forests mean to them on cards in the shape of a tree, which will be taken to Parliament by Lord Clark. The campaign to Save Lakeland’s Forests was launched this month by Paul Townsend, a former parish councillor, who lives at Satterthwaite near Grizedale, and has already received national media attention. The campaign has even been contacted by French TV. Thousands of people have visited the campaign website – www.savelakelandsforests.org.uk – and hundreds of people are also following the group’s updates on Facebook and Twitter. Nationally, over 160,000 people have signed a petition organised by 38 degrees against the Government plans.  Paul Townsend commented “We’ve been delighted by the amount of support we’ve been getting. There have been many messages of support and offers to help the campaign. It shows just how much the Lake District’s forests and woodlands mean to people – not just those who live here but many people across the whole country.  “It’s important for people to come along and show their support on Sunday. It’ll be a great day out and a chance for us all to play our part in putting a stop to the Government’s plans to sell off our forests. “We’d also encourage everyone to sign the national petition organised by 38 degrees. There’s a link to the petition on our website as well as details about how to contact your local MP and the Environment Secretary.” For more information visit www.savelakelandsforests.org.uk  Reported 28th January 2011

Newcastle Indoor Climbing Comp - 28th January - 18th February 2011 Don’t worry about trying to finish the comp in a day – You’ve got over 2 whole weeks and you only pay once for your score card £1.00..!   Prizes - there are prizes galore in every category worth hundreds of pounds sponsored by Rockworks Climbing. Hand in your scorecard after every session and  your scores will be posted up on the table, everyone has the chance of winning a Bouldering Mat £120 & 10 climb pass. How does it work?? - Grades are from 5 to 7b+ that’s 12 routes to go at all you do is: • Pay for your £1.00 for scorecard (after entry)   • Choose your category (no cheating)   • Mark your card & hand it into reception, next time you climb ask for your scorecard.   • You have got 2 weeks to complete the comp   • All scorecards go into prize draw for Bouldering Mat, Fingerboard & Clothing so everyone has the chance of winning   • Prize Draw and Winner announced Fri 18th Feb 8.30pm   The comp routes will be set by Mickey Stainthorpe and Mickey Page. More details at Newcastle Climbing Centre.  Reported 27th January 2011   Photo: Mark Savage

 

Tom Bolger on Fire! Following on from his recent ascent of Ciudad del dios 9a/+ which was his hardest redpoint ever. Tom has now also upped his onsight grade to 8b+ with his ascent of L'Ments at Monsant. This is what Tom had to say "I had only ever been to Montsant once before, 3 years ago, but had seen the stunning line of L'Ments 8b+. I remember standing at the bottom of it too intimidated to get on it. Well 3 years on and there I was tying in, getting psyched up for the onsight go. This time I had decided that I was going to approach it differently, in the past I have approached routes onsight too psyched up, jittery, full of nerves and have blown them on some subtle foot move or pumped out over gripping. The route went really well, I had to battle and there was definitely a couple of moves were it felt really close, but I managed to stay relaxed and keep my head together right until the chains, keep those thoughts of "I'm going to do it" at bay. " Read Tom Bolger's Blog here. Reported 25th January 2011

Tom Bolger on Ciudad del dios 9a/+ at Santa Linya    Photo: Steve Crowe

 

The Big Vertical Marathon is a unique challenge to raise money for Cancer Research UK. In one week touring seven of England’s best indoor climbing walls the team will climb the total marathon distance, but upwards! This has never been done before, and they would like you to join them for the adventure. They will be visiting the Newcastle Climbing Centre on Wednesday 26th January 2011.  Read all about The Big Vertical Marathon here. And could you be the Beast of Beasts!? The guys from Beastmaker are joining the tour in a search for the ultimate chin up champ. You'll have 1 minute to squeeze out as many chin ups as you can. The most chin ups in one minute by the end of the week will walk away with a Beastmaker fingerboard. Reported 23rd January 2011

 

This Weekend is Black and White. The new White Circuit at Climb Newcastle is a technical masterclass, that requires tenacity and technique and will not submit to beefiness and brawn.  Meanwhile at  Durham Climbing Centre Micky Page has set a new hard and interesting Black Circuit. Check them out! Reported 21st January 2011

The new White Circuit at Climb Newcastle

 

Success in The Woods for Micky Page. Micky has just returned from a very successful trip to Switzerland which included the 4th ascent of From Dirt Grows the Flowers (8C) in Chironico, he also climbed Big Paw (8C) and Entlinge (8c), Entlinge was dispatched in three sessions! Back home for January he has been up to Kyloe in the Woods where he has made the 4th ascent of Monk Life (8B+). Malcolm Smith made the first ascent in 2003, with Andy Earl repeating Monk Life soon after. John Gaskins recorded the third ascent.  Details from UKB. Micky is setting a new hard black circuit at Durham Climbing Centre on Friday... it could be VERY HARD!  Reported 19th January 2011

Malcolm Smith and Andy Earl climbing the Monk Life 8b+      Photos: Steve Crowe

 

Hard Climbs hit Durham Climbing Centre. Last friday Mickey Stainthorpe set an awesomely desperate set of red problems ranging from V4 - V8 but mostly hard and very interesting. Micky Page will be pushed to raise the bar with the new hard black circuit he will be setting next friday. A week later is the Junior Competition on Saturday 29th January 2.30pm - 4.30pm. Details below:

 

BMC British Bouldering Championships results: Shaua Coxsey was in impeccable form crushing all the problems with ease to post the perfect score and steal the show as first place Senior Female. Ned Feehally qualified for the senior final in first place and secured victory in the final based on countback. Adam Watson was very close behind but finish 5th in a very tight men's final. In his last season as a junior Sam Brannigan qualified in first place and held his nerve to win in the final topping all four final problems in eight attempts. Tara Hayes was first placed Junior female. Full results on the BMC website. Reported 16th January 2011

 

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series. The results of Round 3 are now in! Karin Magog was on good form finishing first female and eighth overall with an excellent 301 points. Joanne Quinan was only seven points behind in second place. Alisha Brownlee was first junior female and all the extra training paid off for Sue Leyland coming first vet. Senoir Male, Andy Asquith was first overall with an excellent 325 points closely followed by Steve Roberts who was just behind with 321. Steve is lying in first place for the series with two rounds to go. Sam Brannigan scored an excellent 318, however Jack Graham posted a very impressive 268 to finish second ahead of Will Chamberlain.  Richard Davies arrived early and left posting 314 points. Martin Waugh came closest to matching that with 311. Everyone was pleased to see John Earl back in action scoring an awesome 240 in the "Super Vets" well ahead of his main rival a very disappointed Tommy Smith! The full results are here! Once again the evening finished of with a fantastic free raffle with great prizes donated by Snap, E9 and many others. The only rule is that you have to be there to win!  Reported 16th January 2011

If you weren't there on friday then you have missed this one!

 

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series. Round 3 of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series takes place this Friday 14th January, between 1pm and 9pm. After a fantastic first two rounds the fun continues, the format however is much the same! - 35 problems, mixed together between fun and easy, moderately taxing, hard, harder and ridiculous. - One £50 problem. - An incredibly generous raffle. - No extra cost, just normal entry fee. - The chance for the winning juniors (U16), adults and vets (45+) to get their name on the WBS trophy and win overall prizes.   Reported 10th January 2011

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series Round Three.

 

Andy Earl is making a Steady Recovery. Many of you may have read  in the Evening Chronicle that Andy regained consciousness on Christmas Eve and that Suzan gave birth to a baby daughter Amber, on Christmas Day. I am pleased to read  the climbnewcastle web site that Andy continues to make steady and positive progress. He has now moved to an ordinary ward and has began his long rehabilitation. Andy's family have asked that at this stage people do not visit him unless they are close friends or family and then only in consultation with the family. We all wish Andy a full recovery.  Reported 9th January 2011

Get well soon Andy, we are all missing you!

 

Durham Climbing Centre Winter Bouldering Series. There was another excellent turn out and everyone enjoyed a great evening. Adam Watson made the perfect score of 250 points by flashing all the problems. The results are now online here. A selection of photographs by Steve Crowe can be seen here.  Reported 8th  January 2011

Adam Watson won with the perfect score.

 

Durham Climbing Centre Winter Bouldering Series. Steve Crowe and Karin Magog are route setters for Round Three on Friday 7th January 2011. There will be 25 problems across the grade range from very easy to very technical,  and perhaps the odd very big dyno!  Both have over 20 years experience both at route setting and competing at a national and international level. "We are both keen route climbers so you can expect sustained and technical problems." Steve Crowe. To find out what Karin has been up to read her blog here. Gaz Parry's set from Round One will be stripped to make way for the Round three problems.  Reported 2nd January 2011

Early Bird Entry from about 3pm.

 

Welcome to 2011. Clear your head and start to burn off the seasons excesses at Climb Newcastle.  The wall is open on New Years day from 10am - 4pm, and are offering free coffees for everyone who turns up to climb on the first day of 2011. Reported 1st January 2011

Free coffee at Climb Newcastle

 

Seaside Icefalls at Saltburn. Jason Wood has climbed a few ice smears up to grade 4 on and around the main cliffs at Saltburn. It may already be too late to get in for a quick repeat but if the temperatures drop again... The main lines still await a first ascent. Reported 24th December 2010

Photos by Jason Wood.    Click the images to enlarge.

 

The fifth annual REEL ROCK Film Tour is arriving on Tyneside. This year, REEL ROCK turns five, and co-founders Sender Films and Big UP Productions are celebrating by taking you on a global ride like never before. From death-defying speed link-ups of the wildest faces in The Alps, to Olympian displays of strength and tenacity on the hardest boulders ever climbed, REEL ROCK 2010 features a breathtaking journey through the vertical realm with the heroes of rock and snow. Tyneside Cinema Wed 29th Dec 8.30pm tickets on sale at the Box Office. Ticket prices: £7.50 full price | £6.50 concessions / VIP Area £10.00 full price | £9.00 concessions. Tickets are available directly from The Tyneside Cinema www.tynesidecinema.co.uk. More info on the Newcastle Climbing Centre web site and reelrocktour.com. Reported 21st December 2010

More info on the Newcastle Climbing Centre web site.

 

Tom Bolger tops of 2010 with yet another hard redpoint.  Tom quietly dispatched the mega Blomu 8c+ at Santa Linya yesterday. Tom has enjoyed a fantastic year with ascents of Open Your Mind Direct 9a, Fuck the System 9a, Direct into Your Fabelita 9a, and many more hard ascents. Toms ascents are so low key that they don't even get a mention on his own blog! http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/  Elsewhere Gaz Parry recently added Mala Hierbes 8c to his growing list of hard ascents. Gaz keeps his blog more up to date! http://www.gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/. Finally Alan Cassidy recently added Cous Cous 8c at El Chorro to his list of achievements and today onsighted Mamacita 8a also at El Chorro. "If I take the guide book grade of 8c, then this is my first 8c "in-a-day" and marks a major milestone in my climbing." You can keep up with Alan Cassidy on his blog at: http://alancassidyclimbing.blogspot.com/.   Reported 21st December 2010

Tom Bolger on his next project at Santa Linya    Photo: Steve Crowe

 

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series. Round 2 of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series takes place this Friday 17th December, between 1pm and 9pm. After a storming round 1 the format is much the same... - 35 problems, mixed together between fun and easy, moderately taxing, hard, harder and ridiculous. - One £50 problem for most to dream of winning and one to take home the glory and the money. - An extraordinarily generous raffle. - Zero extra cost, just normal entry fee. - The chance for the winning juniors (U16), adults and vets (45+) to get their name on the WBS trophy and win overall prizes. - And new for the 3rd year of the event are our special one day only volume creations. Reported 17th December 2010

Andy Earl took very ill last Thursday whilst route setting in Alnwick. He was taken to the RVI in Newcastle and is currently stable but is still in intensive care. All our thoughts are with Suzan and his family. We wish Andy a full and speedy recovery. Read more on UK Bouldering. Reported 16th December 2010

Andy Earl climbing at Crironico

 

Lleida Climbs by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada Out Now! Catalunya is becoming an increasingly popular sport-climbing destination with brilliant crags set amongst some of the wildest scenery in Western Europe. However, the cliffs of its most westerly province, Lleida, have not yet received the attention they deserve, especially when compared to those in other parts of the region, such as Montserrat near Barcelona, and Siurana, Margalef and Monsant in the Costa Daurada.  LLeida Climbs is a selective A5 format guidebook with 336 pages covering almost 2000 climbs in 21 climbing areas, featuring everything from sandstone bouldering, and desperately hard single pitch routes on world-famous cliffs like Oliana, Terradets and Santa Linya, to stunning, bolt-protected, multi-pitch expeditions in the magnificent limestone gorges of Montsec and on the Granite of the Catalan Pyrenees. Areas covered include: Camarasa, Sant Llorenç de Montgai, Cubells, Alòs de Balaguer, La Pauta, Santa Ana, Os de Balaguer, Tartareu, Santa Linya, Àger, Terradets, Vilanova de Meià, Abella de la Conca, Collegats, Oliana, Coll de Nargó, Perles, Tres Ponts, Cavallers, Cova de Juncosa, El Cogul. Text is in English, Catalan & Castilian. Available in climbing shops from November 2010, at a price of £27.95. Order now.   Reported 28th October 2010

Lleida Climbs by Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada Out Now!
 

 

British Bouldering Champion to run Masterclasses at Newcastle Climbing Centre. Current British Bouldering Champion, Nigel Callender, will run a four hour in depth Masterclass at Newcastle Climbing Centre.  Cost is only £30 per person which includes climbing wall entry fee. Dates: 6th November and 21st November. Time: 2pm - 6.30pm. There is a limit of six persons per session so book early to avoid disappointment. Full details at Newcastle Climbing Centre. Reported 27th October 2010

 

Bouder for Fun at the Berghaus Wall. Berghaus and Eldon Leisure are pleased to promote a bouldering competition to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Berghaus Wall. The competition will take place on the Berghaus Wall which is situated in the Eldon Precinct in the centre of Newcastle Upon Tyne and is open to entries from all age groups. There are separate event categories for adult males and females; junior males and females and veteran (over 50) males and females. Berghaus, the main event sponsor have donated generous prizes with first prize for the adult events being a £500 voucher to spend in their stores or online. The entry fee of £20 includes a free competitor's T shirt and an entry to the post competition party where there will be a free buffet and disco. Those old enough to remember the Boulder for Fun competitions at the Berghaus Wall in the 1990s will recall the fantastic time had by all, both competing and partying. This is the event NOT to miss in 2010!! Further details and application forms from Berghaus Wall at Eldon Leisure. Reported 25th October 2010

 

Free Climbing in Newcastle City Centre. Saturday 23rd October, 12-3PM at Grey’s Monument. This is a great opportunity to try climbing on our mobile wall for FREE. Experts will be on hand to demonstrate some basic techniques and you’ll be climbing unassisted in no time. An hour’s rock climbing will burn more calories than any other sport. Indoor climbing is one of the UK’s fastest growing sports with hundreds of people taking part each week across the country. Go on, why not try a sport that makes exercise fun? Climbers must be 7 years and over. Want to climb more? Try these local climbing centres. Reported 22nd October 2010

www.activenewcastle.co.uk 

 

Roxcool Sponsor Winter climbing nights at Sunderland Wall. £1 off entrance after 1700hrs for every full member (groups not included). So come along on the first Monday in the month and get yourself a good deal to enjoy a great night of climbing at Sunderland Wall "The North East’s premier climbing venue". Learn more about Roxcool here. Roxcool Mondays are: Monday 1st November 2010, Monday 6th December 2010, Monday 10th January 2011, Monday 7th February 2011. Monday 7th March 2011 Reported 21st October 2010

Climb Newcastle is Two. On Friday 22nd October Climb Newcastle will be two years old and to celebrate the centre is holding a birthday party and fun competition with everyone invited! 1pm-9pm: Come and try 35 problems at the centre any time during the day, that'll be 30 problems ranging from very easy to very hard, plus 5 "special" problems to try. Watch out for this year's Byker Groove challenge where you can take on groove-specialist Chris Graham for a special prize: think you're flexible enough? (Note: Chris has been spotted practising the splits especially for the occasion. Ed!). This is very much a fun competition (although very good practice for the upcoming Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series) which means there will be problems for everyone and prizes will be raffled in true Climb Newcastle giveaway styly. 8:30pm-11pm: Come join in at The Punch Bowl in Jesmond for the after-party where there'll be food and birthday cake, plus raffle at 10pm, all you need is to have entered a scorecard earlier in the day to have a chance of winning a prize. For more info check the Climb Newcastle website here. Reported 18th October 2010

Ben Dawson trying the 2009 Byker Groove Challenge

 

Durham Climbing Centre will celebrated its 3rd birthday with a one off special event.  Tom Newman provided a challenging set of 25 problems ranging from not very easy to very hard.  Adam Watson won with 231 points out of a possible 250. First placed junior Jens Signer scored and impressive 164 points. Edinburgh based Anna Trybis had a worthwhile trip picking up first female with 124 points. Mick Gardner was first Vet with 141 (just 9 points ahead of The Editor!) Karin Magog found 114 points enough for first Female Vet.  More details, pictures and full results here.  Reported 17th October 2010

 

North York Moors Bouldering Meet 22nd - 24th October. Beta Guides invites everyone to join in. The Meet will start at Blakey Ridge on Friday October 22nd. The Lion Inn will allow camping for the meet even though a sign says otherwise.  There is lots of open projects to try, at all grades. Everyone is welcome.  The meet will start at 6pm at the lion Friday from there some night bouldering at Rosedale head or Ravenswick if Its raining as you can climb on black wall in the rain - "Its also the Stoney Middleton of the Moors!"

Friday  23rd October.  Gather at 6pm, small wild campsite adjacent to The Lion Inn up on Blakey Ridge,  from there some night bouldering at Rosedale Head.

Saturday 23rd October.  Meet at 10am beside The Lion Inn - will be at Ingleby - projects - circuits and new development to be investigated.
Sunday 24th October.  Meet at 10am beside The Lion Inn - The Wainstones and Cold Moor - projects - circuits and potential new development there too.

You need to be there to enjoy some of the best bouldering the North Yorkshire Moors has to offer. More details on BetaGuidesBlog. Updated 16th October 2010

 

EDINBURGH MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL (EMFF) 2010 DELIVERS MOUNTAINS OF ADVENTURE The 8th Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival (EMFF)soars back into the capital from Thursday 21 - Sunday 24 October 2010. The main event is staged at George Square Lecture Theatre in Edinburgh, with special extra events being held at Edinburgh International Climbing Arena at Ratho. As always, it promises to be a weekend packed full of inspiration and entertainment, with an impressive diversity of speakers and a selection of films delivering lots of high drama and painful wipeouts! The EMFF has built a reputation as a fun, lively and inspiring event and this year will continue that trend. Highlights will include the first Edinburgh lecture by local cyclist Mark Beaumont about his latest cycling and mountaineering journey through the Americas. Part-time extreme mountaineer and full-time taxman Mick Fowler will share stories from his recent trip to Vasuki Parbat in the Indian Gharwal Himlaya, while Twid Turner will also provide inspiration for climbers with his tales from his expedition to Baffin Island. Meanwhile, renowned explorer Benedict Allen will entertain and thrill festival attendees with his impressive resume of adventurous expeditions across the globe. The festival, staged in association with Tiso & Wilderness Journeys, expects over 2,500 outdoor enthusiasts to attend the event. These will include climbers, skiers, snowboarders, mountain bikers, walkers, as well many others who simply have an interest in travel and adventure. There are many remarkable films as well, with Catherine Destivelle's 'Beyond the Summits' taking the role of the epic, while Leo Houlding stars in The Asgard Project - a multi-award winning, high-octane climbing and BASE-jumping film by Alistair Lee. Most mountain sports are represented, including climbing, snowsports, BASE-Jumping, mountain culture and epic journeys, with a good combination of international and locally made films. Sunday afternoon sees a new event with the screening of feature-length film 'Solo', about the tragic attempt of Andrew MacAuley to sea kayak from Tasmania to New Zealand. This will be followed by a debate on how much extreme adventurers are prepared to risk, & the ethics of this. The festival will also include a number of events throughout October, some of which are free. These include a mountain photography exhibition and several 'Adventure Taster Sessions' which give you the chance to try kayaking, skiing, boarding and climbing. Social climbers, meanwhile, can enjoy social gatherings including the EMFF party at the Counting House on the Friday night. Tickets and free programmes for the festival event will be available from Tiso stores and the Alien Rock climbing centres from 4th September. For full details of the festival, see www.emff.co.uk  Reported 10th October 2010

 

Climbing Conditioning Workshops at Durham Climbing Centre Jack Walton, Bowen Therapist, is starting a series of workshops this month geared towards functional health and performance. Climbers can attend one or more workshops which take place once a month on a Wednesday over the next six months. New Red Circuit at Durham Wall; Dave Yarwood has been invited to set a new hard red circuit at Durham Climbing Centre this Friday! Finally, Durham Climbing Centre will celebrate its 3rd birthday with a special event on Friday 15th & Saturday 16th October. More details here.  Reported 7th October 2010

More details here.

 

Boot-Demo Bonanza at Climb Newcastle. This Wednesday 6th October Climb Newcastle will be hosting a Boot-Demo Bonanza with shoes from Boreal, Evolv and Scarpa all available to try out for free - an unprecedented chance to compare different shoes and make up your mind on your future rock shoe purchase. The shoes are available from 12 midday when the centre opens and throughout the day. Reported 3rd October 2010

Boot-Demo Bonanza at Climb Newcastle.

 

Six Hundred Metres of New Routes are coming to Sunderland Wall. International route setters Ian Vickers and Jamie Cassidy will spend three days at Sunderland Wall from Tuesday 19th until Thursday 21st October 2010. All of the 23m lead walls will be fully reset.  To facilitate this work the 23m lead walls will be closed from 10am on Saturday 16th October 2010. "Never fear the affected walls will re-open on 21st October at 5pm for everyone to try!" Sunderland Wall. Elsewhere Climb Newcastle will set a new black circuit on 1st October and have a Boot Demo Night on Wednesday 6th October. Newcastle Climbing Centre has new routes and a new boulder circuit especially for the Outside In Event on Saturday 2nd October 2010. Durham Climbing Centre has some new Entre-Prise holds (including lots of crimps, edges and pinches!) and a new in house route setter - Tom Lee, who will be setting Pinks and Purples with the new holds on Friday 1st October. Durham Climbing Centre will celebrate its 3rd birthday with a special event on Friday 15th & Saturday 16th October. More details here.  Reported 30th September 2010

All of the 23m lead walls will be fully reset.

 

Rockworks provide a new Boulder Park for London. The project was conceived by the London Borough of Redbridge in 2009, and funded by the London Mayor's Priority Parks Programme. The North East based company Rockworks was selected to build the boulders which were completed in June 2010. The boulders are situated in a leafy glade close to the main lake at Fairlop Waters. They offer sunny aspects and welcome shade throughout the day in a very pleasant location. Fairlop Waters Boulder Park can be easily accessed from Forest Road, and is only a 5 minute walk from Fairlop Tube Station. The Boulder Park consists of nine boulders of varying heights and shapes to cater for all standards from novice to expert. They are all designed for solo climbing. The easiest climbs will be found on boulders G,H & I. The higher boulders A,B,C & E all have thread belays for climbers who would like to use a top rope. Full details of the climbing can be found in the Fairlop Waters MiniGuide Acrobat Reader Required (www.adobe.com). Reported 27th September 2010

More photos and further information here.

 

The Summerhill Boulder Park, Hartlepool. Summerhill is a 100 acre site on the western edge of Hartlepool which was created in late 1998. Summerhill has matured into a unique Country Park, set on the western edge of Hartlepool it is both a Local Nature Reserve and an Outdoor Activity Centre. You can enjoy most of the facilities on site, including rock climbing, free of charge with no need to pre-book. Unrestricted access is available day and night, so don't forget to pack your head torches! The Summerhill Boulder Park provides climbing on eight purpose built boulders that aim to recreate natural climbing areas. More information about Summerhill can be found on the sunny summerhill website. The most popular climbs are detailed in the new draft of the Summerhill MiniGuide. Any feedback on grades or description would be most welcome.  Reported 27th September 2010

Click images to enlarge. More pictures here: The Summerhill Boulder Park

 

New Routes at Bizzle Burn on The Cheviot. Graeme Read and Simon Litchfield have continued their quest to clear up any unclimbed gaps in Northumberland with three fine new routes in one of the remotest spots in Northumberland. "I was gobsmacked to find such a clean, compact wall of rock hidden away from the crowds." commented Graeme. Details of their routes are as follows: The Flying Fortress 18m E6 6a/b ** An excellent but serious and committing route which takes a fairly direct line up the centre of the impressive blank looking wall. Low in the grade but scary. Start directly below the centre of the wall. Climb up to a dubious flake at 3 metres (wire) and using tiny holds above lunge left to a hidden hold. Stand on this, move up to a small overlap (crucial cam, placed blind) and climb the centre of the wall on good but sometimes suspect flakes until a step left reaches some much needed gear (small wires and possible escape up a dirty groove). Once composed move back right until beneath the small roof and finish direct over it and the wall above in a sensational position. FA Graeme Read, Simon Litchfield 30th August 2010   Devious Flightpath 19m E4 6a ** A very bold mid height traverse of the buttress finishing in a superb position on the right hand arete. Start to the left of The Flying Fortress below a groove. Climb the groove until a pull out right can be made level with the overlap in the centre of the wall. Traverse gingerly rightwards across the wall to the right hand arete (wires) and finish direct up it to The Flying Fortress belay. FA Simon Litchfield, Graeme Read 30th August 2010   And finally one that can come off the secret list! Dunsdale Crack 17m HVS 4c * Climb the obvious crack on the right hand side of the buttress to the large ledge at half height (possible belay). Continue up the wall to the right of the arete to pull over on to a slab to finish. FA Graeme Read, Stephen Kirkup September 2007   Devious Flightpath E4 6a Bizzle Crag The Flying Fortress E6 6a/b

 

Newcastle Climbing Centre The Outside In Event Saturday 2nd October 2010. Boot Demos, Comps, Lectures, Prizes Galore! More details here. Reported 9th September 2010

 

WEST COUNTRY CLIMBS by Mark Glaister The latest Rockfax is a mighty tomb covering a vast area from Bristol down through Devon and Cornwall and finishing up along the south coast as far as Swanage. With so much quality climbing to cover I don't envy the task of it's author in deciding what to include and what to omit. This will always be a contentious issue. Personally if I'm making the effort to drive to the south west from the north east I'm unlikely to bother climbing in the Avon Gorge, so I would have rather seen some of those 24 pages dedicated to other areas such as Sharpnose, which is infuriatingly selective. This is perhaps true for many of the crags, with just enough routes to wet your appetite, thereby ensuring sales of the definitive guides to repeat visitors. Once you get into the guide the number of crags covered is staggering. There's the ones I'd heard of such as the Avon and Cheddar Gorges, Black Church, Sharpnose, Tintagel, Pentire, Bosigran, Sennen, Chair Ladder, Lizard Point, Anstey's, Portland and Swanage. However, these crags are complimented by an array of other venues offering a good choice of climbing styles and rock-types. There's the various quarried venues such as Portishead and Cheesewring, the sports venue of Brean Down, the culm slabs of Gull Rock and Vicarage Cliff, the committing Carn Gowla and Gurnard's Head, the killas slate of Kenidjack, the superb granite cliffs around Land's End, the Dartmoor Tors and the outrageous looking Berryhead to name just a few. The guide's most impressive feature as always are the high quality photo diagrams, the work involved to compile them massive. To me this is a big selling point as they really offer a flavour of the style of climbing on offer. The diagrams are backed up with written route descriptions and the usual rockfax icons. The guide as always contains easy to follow maps, backed up with written approach info, and a paragraph on access/tides and conditions. There's also a reasonable selection of action photos covering the full range of grades and styles on offer. The guide covers climbs of all grades, although those operating in the VS-E2 range are the most catered for. For those wanting trad routes of E4 and above there seems to be little new stuff to discover but all the classics (such as Fay, Pacemaker, Darkinbad, Il Duce and America) are covered. With a guide of this size there will always be errors to find, perhaps the most blatant is the incorrect description of Coronary Country, which is described as climbing to the good spike of Fay before heading up to the pegs. This error first appeared in the 2000 CC guide (check the 1988 guide for the correct description) and the fact that it has been replicated here highlights how much Rockfax rely on the definitive guides for their information. All in all though an excellent production and a must buy for all those climbers thinking of visiting this area of the country. There's enough routes in here to keep you going for several holidays, without visiting the same crag twice. This guide is a truly fine effort by the author Mark Glaister. West Country Classics by Mark Glaister is available now for £24.95 from Rockfax. More reviews here. Reviewed by Karin Magog, 6th September  2010

 

Climb Newcastle Summer Boulder Ladder 2010:  This Friday is the last day for taking part in Climb Newcastle's summer boulder ladder - a fun competition that has been taking place over the summer months with over 350 people taking part. (Check the latest "live" scores here.) To celebrate the last round Climb Newcastle are hosting one of their celebrated social events with a live DJ throughout the day, plus a raffle giveaway in the evening at the centre, with everyone welcome to come along to the Ship in Ouseburn afterwards. It's also a great opportunity to climb on 3 new features in the centre built over the last couple of weeks with new angles and new problems to play on. Reported 31st August 2010

 

Newcastle Climbing Centre. The NICCS route climbing competition ends on Tuesday 31st August so be sure to get down and try to climb the rest of the routes. Check here for the latest scores. Reported 30th August 2010

Mick Gardener about to clip on the sandy 7a+

 

Durham Climbing Centre Summer Bouldering Ladder. Its the 4th and final round of the Durham Climbing Centre Summer Bouldering Ladder 27th August - 3rd September! The final weeks problems were set by Micky Stainthorpe, they are all green & orange ranging from V0 - V8. To make it easier for climbers to assess grades of problems, we have added some coloured tags at the start of each problem stating the colour & grade. "As a big thanks to all competitors there will be a FREE BBQ and prizes event on Sunday 5th September 2 - 4pm. Everyone is welcome to come along. Check the scores so far here. Reported 29th August 2010

 

Boulder for Fun (again) at the Berghaus Wall. To celebrate the 20th Anniversary of the Berghaus Wall in Newcastle they plan to run a Birthday Bouldering Competition. Newcastle Leisure Eldon and Berghaus have combined to run a bouldering competition followed by a party/disco on the evening of Saturday 4th December. Those old enough will remember the great Boulder for Fun events of the 1990's held at this top venue. Berghaus, the main sponsor, have agreed to provide £5000 worth of prizes in the form of cash value vouchers for their shops/webstore. It is anticipated that the event will attract a top field of competitors with prizes to the value of £500. Entry to the event is only £20 (U16 £15) which includes a free T shirt and entry to the disco and buffet in the evening. For further details visit:- www.newcastleleisure.co.uk/eldonleisure Reported 19th August 2010

Steve Crowe on the Berghaus Wall

 

Epic Adventures Autumn 2010 Holidays. Gaz Parry and Kate Mills run a Coaching and Holiday company Epic Adventures. They are based in Spain on the Costa Blanca and are available for Rock Climbing Coaching and Guiding anywhere in the world.  "Literally anywhere you want to go Rock Climbing just ask us and we'll see what we can do. We do not focus purely on coaching and grade improvement, we want you to enjoy your holiday whatever standard you climb at or whatever you personal aim. The holidays we have advertised for Autumn 2010 are booking up fast as each course is limited to 4 clients per instructor. If you are keen to come on one of these courses we suggest you get in touch soon to avoid disappointment." Gaz Parry. More details can be found on the Epic Adventures website. Reported 7th August 2010

More details can be found on the Epic Adventures website.

 

Northumberland New Route Update. Over the last few weeks Merlin Wall at Back Bowden Doors has been in awesome condition, with a lengthy spell of good weather the rock's had plenty opportunity to stay dry. Nic Ward, Ian Denton and Mike Rose have been cleaning up a few lines. The classic E5 Merlin has seen quite a few repeats, Nic soloed Mordreth E6 a week ago and last weekend he headpointed a hard direct line up the right hand end of the wall. Nic had this to say about his new line "It starts on the big sloping shelf where The Arches starts, but climbs direct over the nose of the roof via hard pulls to reach the mono of Macbeth, then continue straight up for the break, and top-out direct, where Macbeth goes off rightwards. It is plumb vertical line up the crag. If you reckon it's name-worthy I'd like to call it Sigurd (E6 6c)."  Reported 2nd August 2010

Nic Ward climbing Sigurd E6 6c and soloing Mordreth E6 6c at Back Bowden Doors

 

North East Competition Fever. The north east climbing walls are competing for your attention this month. Durham Climbing Centre have a weekly bouldering series which starts on 6th of August and runs until 3rd September. Newcastle Climbing Centre are running a route climbing (top rope and leading) comp from the 1st August until 31st August. Finally there is less than one week left of the second round of the Climb Newcastle summer bouldering ladder. Friday is both the last day of round two and the first day of round three. Here is some help with one of the harder yellows, more videos clues here.  Reported 1st August 2010

 

Raven's Scar has enjoyed the driest spell in recent years and has seen a flurry of activity. Steve Ramsden has climbed two new E7's either side of the crag's classic E5 Stratagem. A Different Kind of Blue (E7 6c) starts as for Satchmo before sweeping across impressive territory above Ch-Ching to finish as for Statagem. Collateral (E7 6c) climbs the often eyed hanging arête a few metres right of Stratagem. Read more on Steve's Blog. Richard Waterton recently linked the finish of A Different Kind of Blue with the start of Ch-Ching (E7) with  to give a stunning direct E7 all the way up the arête. Also Andy Reeve, ground upped A Different Kind of Blue and repeated Ch-Ching over two exciting days last weekend!  Meanwhile Tony Marr, who has been recording new routes on the North York Moors since the early 1960's has managed to unearth a few more gaps. Full details can be found here. There is also a free MiniGuide to Raven's Scar here. Updated 19th July 2010

Steve Ramsden on the first ascent of Collateral E7 6c.

 

Power Endurance training at Climb Newcastle "We've had a few link-ups in the pool area over the spring so this time with the new purple problems we've done something a little different and linked the problems in the left side into the cave finishing up the 45 degree board. 11 problems in total" The second round problems in the Summer Boulder Ladder 2010 are Yellow. You can follow your progress via the Live Scoreboard.  Reported 16th July 2010

The second round problems are Yellow.

 

New Crag Developed in Northumberland. "A handful of the routes on offer are, in our opinion, of top quality. Broken Promises, for example, is reminiscent of the superb Guardian Angel at Howlerhirst, Cossack Dancer similar to the three star South Yardhope test piece Quiet County, and Somewhere over the Rainbow provides one of the best outings of its grade in the County." Lower Tosson has recently been developed by Simon Lichfield and Graeme Read "Situated in a grand position above Coquetdale the buttresses may appear esoteric compared to its neighbours, but this is more than made up for by the generally excellent quality rock with interesting features and tremendous natural lines – including the largest roof in the county. It offers a great deal of variety to the climber, whether they be a VD or E5 leader, or a dedicated boulderer. In fact the bouldering potential has barely been tapped into..."  Read more on UKC. Reported 13th July 2010

 

Fun Day at Durham Climbing Centre.  Sunday 18th July 12 - 4pm including: Half Price Climbing, BBQ, 3SIXTY Bicycle Display Team. Full details at www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk  Reported 12th July 2010

 

Climb Magazine reviews Durham Climbing Centre. Climb Magazine has written an excellent review of your local bouldering wall the current issue. Read all about it in the August issue which is available from 8th July. "It is without doubt a bright and friendly centre with excellent bouldering and regular new circuits and some of the best coffee and Paninis around." Also featured in this edition - Leo Houlding in South Africa, Percy Bishton Bouldering in Portugal, Steve McClure (from Redcar) on Adam Ondra, and Dan "The Beastmaker" Varian (from Carlisle) on Training Tenacity  Reported 7th July 2010

Climb Magazine reviews Durham Climbing Centre

Rockworks Climbing and Newcastle Climbing Centre Joint Offers have now come into effect. Join a course or buy a pass at the Newcastle Climbing Centre and receive discount vouchers to be used in the Rockworks Climbing Shop, alternatively spend money and get free climbing vouchers for use at the wall. Please check the Rockworks Climbing Shop website for more details. New Opening Times Are in effect at the shop, weekdays we are now open 12am to 8pm and weekends from 10am to 6pm. This does not effect the Newcastle Climbing Centre opening times. Reported 6th July 2010

Camper Van For Sale. Renault Traffic, P reg, 45000 miles, 2.1L petrol, Mot until Feb 2011. 6 months road tax. Underbody is sound. Body work around sills needs a little work. Engine is good. If someone spent a little money on the bodywork it could give several years of solid use.  The internal look of the van, is of very high standard. Blue/grey beech finish. hob/sink/ 3 way fridge/ leisure battery/ 2 single beds with my adaptation to a double bed/ porta potti- unused by me/indoor table/wardrobeand lots of storage. There is no shower/toilet. Price £5,000 ono. Please email The Editor at this address with your offers.  Reported 4th July 2010

Click the images to enlarge

Wall to Rock with Newcastle Climbing Centre. Outcrop climbing involves visiting moorland crags and attempting single pitch routes of up to about 50’ in height. This one day course is designed for those who have perhaps started their climbing career in an indoor wall such as The Newcastle Climbing Centre and want to progress to the outdoors. The course will visit two of Northumberland’s classic sandstone outcrops and break the day up by having lunch in a pub. Participants will have the opportunity to climb, on a top rope, a number of routes of a grade suitable to their ability. After this course, most students feel happy to undertake visits, by themselves, to local outcrops, in the knowledge that they will be employing safe techniques. The next course is on Saturday 10th July. More details here. Reported 1st July 2010

Click the poster to enlarge

Climb Newcastle Summer Boulder Ladder 2010 If you took part in the Climb Newcastle Easter challenge you will be familiar with the general idea - This time you get four weeks to try the problems and hand a scorecard in to take part. It's called a ladder because we'll be doing this three times (ie three rounds) so you can move up and down the "rungs" (positions) each month. Full details will be here soon. The dates to come and try the problems are as follows: Round 1: 11th June -  9th July 2010 Round 2: 9th July -  6th August 2010 Round 3: 6th August  -  3rd September 2010

Nigel Callender competing at Climb Newcastle

NORTH WALES CLASSICS by Jack Geldard. This new guide, published by Rockfax, is pretty impressive, containing a vast choice of routes across North Wales all packed down into a pocket-sized book.  It's concentrated on the mountain areas  primarily (Gogarth, Llandudno, the Lleyn Peninsular and the slate aren't included) but also includes an excellent choice of routes at the popular roadside venue of Tremadog.  No guide to North Wales would be complete without the Llanberis Pass and Cloggy and both are included in some detail here, giving an excellent selection of classics in the VS-E3 range.  Where this guide excels however, is the selection of routes in lesser known areas such as Cwn Silyn, Lliwedd and Carneddau.  Along with Ogwen and Betws y Coed these 5 areas are packed with quality routes below HVS, including numerous multi-pitch VDiffs.  As one expects from a rockfax, each crag is accompanied with a clear photo-topo and the usual sketch map.  The routes all have clear written descriptions and details of the crag descent are highlighted on the photos.  Also included is a short but detailed winter section, just in case we get another winter like the last one. All in all a quality production which the author, Jack Geldard, deserves to be proud of.  There's plenty of routes to keep the low extreme climber busy but if you climb at HVS or below and enjoy a good day out in the mountains then this guide is a must. North Wales Classics by Jack Geldard is available now, at £16.95 from Rockfax. Read more reviews here. Also coming soon from Rockfax is a stunning new guidebook to the superb climbing found in south west England. West Country Climb by Mark Glaister covers a huge area from Avon through Somerset, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset.  The book will be A5 in size and produced in the same style and layout of the recent Lofoten and Western Grit books. More information can be found on the Rockfax website. Reviewed 1st June 2010

North Wales Classics by Jack Geldard is available now at £16.95, from Rockfax

 

Trad Revival on Yorkshire Limestone. Many of the classic trad routes, on the very dry Yorkshire Limestone Crags, have seen a lot of ascents recently. One day this week there were more trad climbers at Kilnsey than Sport Climbers! Maybe its time to trade in that clip stick for a new set of wires? At Kilnsey; Wise Blood E6, Deja Vu E5, The Overlap E5, Central Wall E4, Friends in High Places E4, Dodger Direct E3 and The Diedre E2 have all been busy. Many more at Malham on the popular Right Wing and the Terrace have seen multiple ascents recently. Meanwhile The Cave Routes (Left Hand E6 and Right Hand E6 ) in Gordale have both seen numerous ascents over the last month. Please email The Editor at this address if you have anything to add.  Reported 29th May 2010

Chris Hope onsighting Right Hand E6 in Gordale     Photo: Steve Crowe

 

Lakeland Raider spotted in Northumberland. Rob Fielding has been see prowling around a lot Northumberland recently. His many ascents included a quick repeat of the guidebook cover shot, Endless Flight Direct E8 7a. Then he added a stunning new problem PreperationH Font 8a  to Hepburn Wood.  "I would put it on a par with Queen Kong at Queens Crag and Eyes of Silence at Callerhues in terms of quality and difficulty." Rob Fielding.  Reported 27th May 2010

PreperationH Font 8a  Hepburn         Photo: Adrian Fielding

 

Durham Climbing Centre Summer Bouldering Competition. Will be held on Friday 11th June 2.30pm - 10pm, with 35 problems & 4 final problems all set by Micky Page & Mickey Stainthorpe. This event is sponsored by Scarpa and Accapi.  For more information regarding up and coming events at Durham Climbing Centre check out their web site: www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk  Reported 22nd May 2010

 

The Climb Newcastle Annual Spring Boulder Open (ASBO '10). Nearly 200 competitors fought with 35 testing black problems, including some technical nightmares - particularly a chimney that took most of the skin off one competitor's back and had a few people's pants (quite literally) down! With 5 male and 5 female competitors going through to the evening's final, the scores were tight for qualification, made tougher by junior Nathan Phillips and Joe Wilson who invaded north from Leeds taking the top spots in the men's. Adam Young, Micky Stainthorpe and Ged Mac made up the rest of the male field. In the females, Joanne Quinan, Holland's Fred Blok, Kate Watson and Rosie Helmore were joined by youngster Beth Walton. It was great once again to see juniors in both the male and female finals, taking advantage of the level playing field of the same problems for all categories. At 9pm the 10 finalists were given a viewing period, shown around their 3 problems and sent into the corner. In came the 100+ strong crowd and the final was away. The girls started with a crowd facing bridged start, a little flick and off they went up the 30 degree board, all completing problem 1. The boys were looking strong too, all flashing number 1 as Chief-setter Andy Earl urgently tweaked the latter problems to make them harder. Girls 2 was tough, starting under the roof, a huge volume effectively made it a double roof. Most struggled to hit the lip of the volume, Fred got through but with the roar of the crowd agonisingly forgot where the last hold was. Joanne then pulled it out of the bag to take the lead. The boys were quickly through 2 and jumping for glory on number 3 to a big ball suspended from the ceiling. It came down to Joe who had 2 goes to win. After failing on the first the tension was unbearable, but Joe stuck the jump, a deserved ASBO winner. On girls 3 the undercut move spat them all, until Joanne finished it all off in style to complete all 3 problems and take the ladies title. You can check out all the photos from a dramatic night in Climb Newcastle's gallery watch a video of the spectacular final moments on youtube and see the full results here. It was an event that'll take some beating at ASBO '11 in a year's time! Reported 21st May 2010

 

Summer Bouldering on the North York Moors. Lee Robinson and Steve Ramsden have again been scouring the North York Moors for more bouldering potential. This time they struck a pot of gold at Oak Crag.  "With summer here sandstone is a lot better to climb on and more forgiving than grit in the heat, plus the landscape is amazing." Lee. Check http://betaguides.blogspot.com/ and http://www.betaguides.com/index.php?country=england then browse the North York moors section. They have also made a recent visit to Earthwork Rocks, check out there video. Jason Wood has been active exploring the potential at The Bridestones and Ingleby Incline and adding a problem to The Wainstones. Meanwhile Simon Caldwell has been checking out some of the least popular routes at Peak Scar! Reported 19th May 2010

Steve Ramsden bouldering up at Oak Crag

 

Durham Climbing Centre has made some big changes to the way the bouldering circuits are reset, with the top local routes setters being used to do the setting now and on a regular basis. Last Full Reset - 14th May by Micky Page & Tom Newman Next Circuit added - Friday 28th May by Mickey Stainthorpe - 25 - 30 extra probelms will be added to all main circuits - no problems will be removed. Route Setting Plans - new circuit of 25 - 30 problems added every Friday by Top Local Setters - all circuits rotated over 10 week period. More information online at www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk.  Reported 18th May 2010

 

Iron Crag Classics are Clean. Graeme Reed and Al Wilson have independently been cleaning up many of the classic routes at Iron Crag in Thirlmere. Graeme concentrated on the left-hand buttress with superb routes like Hiddenite E2, Kryptonite E4 and Marble Staircase E4. Also worth checking out is the two E5's on the same buttress Black Gold and The Quest. Meanwhile Awesome Al has been cleaning up trio of superb hard extreme's The Committal Chamber E5, Western Union E6 and Phoenix in Obsidian E6 on the stunning right hand buttress. This could well be the year of Iron Crag! Join the discussion on UKC. Reported 11th May 2010

Ron Kenyon, belayed by Tim Whiteley on Steel Band Photo Nick Warton	Nick Warton on 1st ascent of Amabilite Photo by Tim Whiteley	Nick Warton on top of Granolithic/Solidarity Photo by Tim Whiteley

 

Climb Newcastle ASBO 10 was a fantastic success with another huge turn out.  Joanne Quinan put on a fantastic performance to win the senior female category, Junior Beth Walton also climbed really well to make the senior final. Helen Wells was first female Vet. Joe Wilson popped up from Leeds to take first place as Senior Male, another junior Nathan Phillips also made the finals. Martin Waugh has recovered enough from his recent injuries to easily make first Male Vet. Full results and pictures at www.climbnewcastle.com  Reported 11th May 2010

 

Bleed In Hell! Despite seeping holds and blustery conditions, Mary Jenner has climbed the Borrowdale test piece Bleed in Hell E8 6c. The stunning arête of Hell's Wall was first climbed in 1992 by Mary's husband Dave Birkett and remained unrepeated for 7 years. Mary's ascent is the first female ascent of any E8 in the Lakes, it is an outstanding achievement. Dave Birkett on congratulating his wife said "Well done Mary, awesome effort. That's it, I don't need to come back to Hells Wall ever again!" The same afternoon Karin Magog and Steve Crowe climbed Inferno E7 6c but left the crag feeling that there effort was a little insignificant after Mary's ascent! "Mary very nearly climbed Bleed in Hell last week in the rain, it was awesome to watch, E8 in the rain! That's when I took the photo. She completely crushed it on Sunday." Steve Crowe. You can also read the discussion on UKC here.  Reported 5th April 2010

Mary Jenner climbing Bleed in Hell E8... in the rain!

 

Climb Newcastle Easter Egg Challenge. This Easter weekend, with the weather looking iffy, get yourself down to Climb Newcastle where you can take part in their Easter Challenge. On Friday morning the team are setting a new yellow (very seasonal) circuit in the range fb 5 to 7c+. One lucky person who does the most yellow problems in each of the 6 categories of male/female junior/senior/vet will win one of the delicious (Thornton's) Easter Eggs belonging to Chris Graham, Climb Newcastle owner and self-confessed chocoholic. Plus it's a great opportunity to get your revenge on a mate who beat you in the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series! The challenge begins at 12:00 on Good Friday when you can pick up a scorecard, and ends at 10pm on Easter Monday. You can have as many goes as you like at the problems, you just need to get them done by close of play Monday. The centre is open normal hours for the whole weekend. Also going on at Climb Newcastle is their Easter Egg Hunt supervised kids sessions running throughout the school holidays from Good Friday to 16th April. More information on the Climb Newcastle website here: Easter Egg Challenge. Alternatively you could check out the desperate new Grey Circuit. More details here! Reported 31st March 2010

Chris guarding the Easter Eggs!

 

Durham Climbing Centre Easter Egg Hunt. Sunday 4th April 2.30pm - 4.00pm. Come along to the Durham Climbing Centre for a fun Easter Egg Hunt with climbing fun and games! Enter the decorated egg competition! Just bring along a hard boiled egg decorated however you like to enter the competition! The wackier the better! £10 per child Phone 0191 3789555 to book! Easter Opening Times. Good Friday 10am - 9pm; Saturday 10am - 9pm; Easter Sunday 10am - 8pm; Monday 5th 10am - 6pm. Saturday & Sunday Rock Stars Kid's Clubs take place as usual. Phone 0191 3789555 to book! www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk   Reported 30th March 2010

 

Durham Climbing Centre offers a brand new Treatment Clinic from Monday 29th March with Shiatsu Massage Therapist James Linton Hunter MRSS joining the DCC Team. Shiatsu is an ancient Japanese physical therapy and system of healing. The positive effects of regular Shiatsu treatments for a climber include using Shiatsu to; reduce muscle fatique, increase energy levels, improve flexibility and enhance performance. James himself is an experienced climber and understands the needs of the client. Shiatsu treatments may be delivered before or after a climbing session. Until May 1st, James is offering an a reduced rate on your first 60 minute session of £20 (usual price £35.00). Shiatsu Works @ Durham Climbing Centre takes place every Monday 12pm - 8pm. All treatments take place in our treatment room in complete privacy. Book your appointment now by phoning the centre on 0191 3789555. Reported 26th March 2010

 

SHAFTOE CRAG – PARKING PROBLEMS. Unfortunately there has been a spate of inconsiderate parking at Shaftoe Crag. As a consequence the Farmer has requested that climbers do not park near the lake (marked as ‘Limited Parking’ in the Bouldering Guide) but on the right immediately after the cattle grid before going down the hill. This is a private road and vehicular access is a privilege not a right. Please respect the Owners wishes and drive and park responsibly. Reported 25th March 2010

Shaftoe Crag
 

Sunderland Wall New Routes Coming Soon. The 23m lead walls will be closed from 10am Saturday 27th March till 5pm Thursday 1st April to allow for a full strip and reset! Setters will be Jason Pickles and Jamie Cassisdy. The rest of Sunderland Wall will be open for business as usual. Reported 25th March 2010

 

Mingulay 2010. The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club are planning a week long trip to Mingulay from 29th May 2010. Mingulay is one of the best sea cliff climbing locations in the UK. This uninhabited Island in the Western Isles has acres of solid rough and clean rock with lots of brilliant routes across the grades and remaining new route potential. "There is already 14 people signed up and others that have expressed an interest so we have chartered a second boat. We have 6 places left to fill. You do not need to be an NMC member to come along. Have a look on the net or at Gary Latter's recent selective Scottish Highlands (North) guide if you need any further inspiration. This is not a trip for beginners. You need to have at least 3 years rock climbing experience and be climbing at least VS comfortably. And be happy being out of contact with the rest of the world for a week." Richard Pow. More details on the NMC forums. Reported 20th March 2010

Perfectly Normal Paranoia E6 Dun Mingulay

 

Newcastle Climbing Centre. To mark Newcastle Climbing Centre's first birthday on the 26th of March, we are inviting our customers to join us for a free lecture with Alan Hinkes OBE. Start time 8pm & free to all registered users of the centre to book your place please ask at reception in person. Alan Hinkes is the first Briton to climb the world's highest mountains. These are the 14 8000m peaks, all of which are in the 'death zone', where human survival rate is measured in hours. They are the most dangerous mountains on the planet. Alan is part of an exclusive club of only 12 people alive who have achieved this feat, which is the same number of people who have stood on the moon.  More details on the NMC Announcments forum. Reported 18th March 2010

Listen to Alan Hinkes on 26th of March 2010 at 8pm at The Newcastle Climbing Centre

 

Victory for Newcastle University... at last! On Saturday the British Universities & Colleges Sport (BUCS) climbing championships took place at the Climbing Works in Sheffield. Newcastle University's team came out top to win gold for the first time in the University's history and ended years of Sheffield domination. The Newcastle A team, consisting of Climb Newcastle owner and postgraduate student Chris Graham, and medics Nigel Callender and Rosie Shaw (also a Climb Newcastle coach) saw off tough competition to win the event, with Nigel also taking individual gold in a sensational climb-off. With a strong performance from Newcastle B also the future of climbing at Newcastle looks bright. The results aren't just good news for the teams, but also for the university with valuable points gained towards the overall BUCS league table, and justifies the superb support given by the University in the past for Chris and Rosie as former members of their Elite Athlete Squad. More about British Universities & Colleges Sport here: BUCS. Reported 17th March 2010

Congratulations to the Newcastle University teams and support squad!

 

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series provided an exciting climax with Tom Newman putting in an excellent performance to climb all the problems, posting an impressive 337 points. However he was beaten to the £50 cash problem by Micky Stainthorpe who obviously was then exhausted since he only managed a total of 31 points! Nigel Callender did enough to take the series (then went on to win the British University Championships at The Works the following day!). Karin Magog took first place with 274 points on the night and the series, with Libby Barrow pressing her all the way with 271 point for second place. Tom Rookes posted an impressive 300 points win and take the series too. Sid Graham had already done enough to win the series so didn't need to turn up for the final round!  Ali Mc Donald just pipped it with 202 points a mere two points ahead of Helen Wells, but that was more than enough to retain her Veterans crown. Tim Carruthers, who travelled across from the west especially, was first Vet with 299 points and a terrific 5th overall on the night. Steve Crowe was once again second on the night but this was consistent enough to take the Vet series. So after 5 rounds with 283 competitors, over 100,000 points won, £3000 of prizes raffled out and records smashed left, right and centre the 2009/10 Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series comes to an end with 1 title defended and 5 new winner's names on the WBS trophies. There is only seven months left to train for the next winter series!  Reported 16th March 2010

Full results here: http://news.climbnewcastle.com/index.php?id=285

More pictures here: http://news.climbnewcastle.com/index.php?id=286

 

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series comes to its climax this Friday 12th March sees the with the 5th and final round. If you haven't been to one of the centre's Winter Bouldering Series event yet there is still time to get involved and it's great fun whether you are a casual climber or serious competitor. You have until 9pm to try 35 super new black problems from easy to hard, get a score, enter an unbelievably generous raffle with hundreds of pounds of prizes, watch the drama unfold as the region's top climbers battle it out for the WBS 09/10 crown, and generally have an amazing time! And what will all this cost you? Simply your normal entry fee. See the results so far and pictures here: Winter Bouldering Series. Reported 10th March 2010

 Winter Bouldering Series

 

The BMC Youth Climbing Series is a series of fun climbing competitions specifically for young people with the emphasis on enjoyment. It is perhaps the most popular competition for young people attracting hundreds of entrants across the country. The competition is open to all within the age categories. So, whether you're an experienced climber or a beginner, this could be just the competition for you. There are three regional rounds in each of the BMC Areas then a British Final when the top 3 in each category from each of the BMC Areas, BMC Wales and the two Areas from Scotland take part. More details on the BMC website. The third round in the North East will be held at the Newcastle Climbing Centre on Saturday 13th March 2010  Reported 8th March 2010

 

Durham Climbing Centre, Junior Climbing Event (7 - 12 years), Saturday 13th March 2.30pm - 4.30pm, Brand new routes, fun competition & games! Entry only £10 per child. Phone 0191 3789555 to book or visit www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk for more information. Reported 7th March 2010

 

Newcastle Climbing Centre. Cassin & Camp Boulder Comp Results. The third and final round proved to be a tough test with most competitors scoring less that the previous round! Chris Cleveland found that he had already done enough to take the series ahead of Dave Smith. Bethany Walton unfortunately had not recovered from her knee injury so Karin Magog ended up a comfortable winner and 5th overall. First Junior Sam Branigan is one to look out for coming 7th overall. First Junior Female Carmel Moran climbed well and actually improved on her previous score. Steve Crowe managed first Vet! Check out the Newcastle Climbing Centre website for more details and a selection of action photos.  Reported 6th March 2010

 

Roseberry Topping Rockfall. A large part of the major Middlesbrough landmark has fallen down (offwidth crack area) leaving a very striking arête! As you can see from attached pictures of Roseberry Topping, the rock fall is substantial and any further additions to the routes on there would be for the very brave (or very mad). Take care out there after all the recent rain and heavy frosts there could well be more crags about to fall over! Reported 3rd March 2010

 

Newcastle University Mountaineering Club presents: Extreme High with Tim Emmett (Thursday 11th March) only  £7 on the door. Tim is one of the world’s top extreme sports athletes specialising in rock & ice climbing, Deep water soloing and B.A.S.E. Jumping. In the last couple of years, Tim has become known for his ‘Para Alpinism’ – climbing a big mountain and then B.A.S.E jumping off in a wing-suit, flying to the ground reaching speeds of up to 250 MPH! Tim also appeared on BBC’s Top Gear, where he raced Jeremy Clarkson’s Audi to the top of France’s Verdon Gorge. In ‘Extreme High’ Tim will be talking about his incredible life, giving the audience an insight into the mindset of an extreme sports athlete. This event is a not to be missed and will be a highly entertaining evening! Tickets are now on sale; tomorrow night and next Tuesday at the Strawberry from 9.30pm, at the ball, and a few lunchtimes next week. It’s open to the public so anyone who is interested can buy a ticket. For more info contact Newcastle University Mountaineering Club. Reported 2nd March 2010

Extreme High with Tim Emmet

 

New Moon at Newcastle Climbing Centre.  The new Moon 2010 spring/summer range has just arrived in the Rockworks Climbing shop. Everything from Jeans to Laptop Bags so get down to the Rockworks Climbing shop in Newcastle Climbing Centre to check them out. Shop online at www.rockworksclimbing.co.uk or contact the shop direct on 0191 2763624. Get down this Friday evening 5pm till 9.30pm for the third and final round of the Cassin & Camp Boulder Comp your best two scores count so you haven’t missed out on the prizes. Its free all you pay is your entry fee – all score cards in by 9.30pm. Check out the Newcastle Climbing Centre website for more details. Reported 27th February 2010   Check out the new Moon Range at the final round of the bouldering series.

 

Harrogate Climbing Centre is now open. Yorkshires newest climbing wall is situated at Hornbeam Park, Harrogate. They offer roped climbing lines and bouldering, catering for both the complete beginner and experienced climber, in a comfortable, friendly atmosphere. The wall has been established by the team behind the very successful Manchester Climbing Centre. Harrogate Climbing Centre provides an excellent venue, either for winter training sessions, or for those days when you get rained off in the Dales! More details can be found on their web site at harrogateclimbingcentre.com. Reported 22nd February 2010

 

BMC in the North East. Ian Walton will be taking over Youth representative post, at the next North East area BMC meeting on Monday 22nd Feb, 8pm Stonebridge Inn, Near Neville's Cross, Durham. "We have four meetings a year which are held on a Monday evening at 8pm at The Stonebridge Inn, near Durham. Everyone is welcome and you may even get a free drink or some chips. It's also a great opportunity to hear our chair Alan Hinkes talk for free!" BMC  Reported 20th February 2010

 

Auto Belays return to Newcastle Climbing Centre. Who needs mates, sick of waiting for your climbing partner to turn up? Don’t worry - Newcastle Climbing Centre now have three brand new Auto-Belays for you to train on so get down and get training. Customers using Auto-Belays must be registered members of the centre and competent in the use of the Auto-Belays, if you have any questions regarding them then ask an Instructor. Reported 17th February 2010

Newcastle Climbing Centre now have three brand new Auto-Belays

 

The 4th Round of the Climb Newcaslte Winter Bouldering Series produced the best ever turn out with 153 competitors tackling the 35 problems. Some time in the mid-afternoon, and after considerable effort, Nigel Callender took the £50 cash problem (check out the video on youtube www.youtube.com/climbnewcastle) and went on to win the men's event, making him firm favourite to win the series. Karin Magog came out top in the ladies and topped off a good day by walking away with a Snap bouldering mat in the raffle. In the juniors, Sam Brannigan looks favourite to win the series if he can put in a good score in the final round whilst Sidonie Graham's solid score (albeit behind Beth Walton on the night) looks set to put her top on 12th March. And in the vets categories Ali McDonald and Steve Crowe have emerged strong favourites for the series, although Steve had to settle for second place on the night, outplayed by 3 points by an impressive Mick Gardener. The full results of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series can be found on their website. The series climax is on Friday 12th March 2010. Reported 15th February 2010

 

New Bouldering wall in Northumberland. A new dedicated bouldering facility has been opened in Willowburn Leisure Centre in Alnwick. Designed and built by Andy Long with input from Gavin Ellis and Ben Moon,the wall offers 2000 square feet of textured plywood bouldering in various angles from slabs, gently overhanging walls, a horizontal roof section, and a 40 degree overhanging "Moonboard" designed and set by Ben Moon. This feature will allow problems to continually evolve, with the ability of users to upload and down load new problems and link with other "moonboards" based around the world via a website. This idea has been around for a while now but this is the first one in a commercial wall in the UK allowing open access to the general public, three more are presently being built around the UK with others already existing as far away as the US and Japan. Full details of the "moonboard" concept can be found at www.moonclimbing.co.uk/schoolroom/moonboard. The rest of the wall has preset colour coded problems off all grades and styles and, as with all good facilities, these will be regularly changed to provide new challenges on a three monthly basis. The wall is conveniently located just off the A1 for those who get rained off in the county and is open seven days a week during the normal opening hours of the leisure centre. Full details of cost and opening times can be found at http://www.northcountryleisure.org.uk/alnwick/page/468 Reported 13th February 2010

	New Bouldering Wall in Alnwick Photos: Gavin Ellis

 

Durham Climbing Centre Half term Programme. Sessions are running for children every day during half term. These replace Tuesday and Thursday evening classes.  Just choose a date and time and contact Durham Climbing Centre to book a place! Reported 12th February 2010

 

Allcord Bouldering Series at Sunderland Wall Results. Tom Rookes and Carmel Moran were first placed Juniors on the night and for the series. Jamie Naden and Karin Magog were first placed Seniors on the night and for the series. Steve Crowe was first on the night but Karl Telfer, who couldn't compete due to a finger injury, had amassed enough points to win the series. Full series results are here. Reported 10th February 2010

 

Bouldering Competition Time Again. Allcord Bouldering Series at Sunderland Wall, Round Three will be at 5pm on Monday 8th February 2010, Activities will start at 5pm and finish promptly at 9pm! Then its full on recovery in time for the 4th and penultimate round of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series on Friday 12th February, starting at 1pm until 9pm to try 35 problems from very easy to ridiculously hard, with a guaranteed £500 of prizes to be raffled at the end of the night. Now some advance notice: Last year's Annual Spring Boulder Open at Climb Newcastle was a terrific success, with a fantastic qualification round leading to a spectacular final fought out by the top male and female climbers. This year's ASBO promises to be just as memorable, keep this date free in your diary... Friday 23rd April... more details to follow.  Reported 8th February 2010

The scores are tight, your best four results count!

 

New Routes at the Newcastle Climbing Centre. The route setters have been very busy creating 25 stunning new routes for you to lead & top rope on and 4 new bouldering circuits. The manager Mark Goodings on behalf of the Newcastle Climbing Centre would like to thank customers for there patience during this route setting period. The centre is also the current host to the BMC leading ladder so get down NOW and tick of the 10 routes from 6a to 8a. Rockworks Climbing is a specialist climbing equipment store within the Newcastle Climbing Centre. You can order your gear online and get the goods delivered to your door or alternatively collect from the climbing centre. Reported 4th February 2010

 

Fort William 2010 Mountain Festival. Fort William has announced a Mountain Festival programme, presented by The Outdoor Capital of the UK, that will put Fort William and Lochaber at the forefront of Scotland's events programme in February. The 2010 Fort William Mountain Festival programme of new events and old favourites will take place throughout Fort William from Thursday 11th to Monday 15th February; during the best winter walking and climbing conditions of the year. Mike Pescod, Chairman of the Highland Mountain Culture Association, organisers of the Festival, said: 'Above all the 2010 Fort William Mountain Festival programme promotes the mountains as an attractive, accessible and above all enjoyable place to be. It includes a superb line up of top climbers, mountain filmmakers, inspirational speakers and creative workshops. It caters for everyone of all ages from elite climbers to outdoor enthusiasts and hill walkers to budding wildlife photographers. 'This celebration of mountain culture, showcasing the huge range of outdoor activity opportunities available to visitors to Fort William and Locahaber, is the vision of The Outdoor Capital of the UK. The OCUK presents the Mountain Festival with essential financial backing and logistical support that has guaranteed the delivery of the Festival for the next three years. We look forward to working with the OCUK and its members in order to build a stronger and more sustainable events programme in the future.' Organisers have promised a five day feast of films, lectures and workshops for residents and visitors who want to learn about and celebrate mountain culture. The varied and entertaining programme includes: - 'Party at Nevis Range' - The official opening ceilidh, 2150ft up Aonach Mor, beside Ben Nevis, for an amazing party with altitude! Thursday 11 February - Victory Over Reason: Adventures On The Eiger, El Cap, Patagonia And The Caledonian Canal - A funny and insightful talk about the last 12 months in the life of legendary big-wall climber Andy Kirkpatrick - including a fraught attempted winter solo of the Eiger Direct, sea kayaking in Patagonia, taking a novice climber who couldn't walk up El Cap and a trip down the Caledonian Canal! Friday 12th February - Climbers I've Shot And Some I'd Like To Shoot - Scotland based multi-awarding winning adventure filmmaker Paul Diffley will entertain his audience with a mixture of chat, photos and video clips. Paul will also show 'Single-Handed', the award-winning film about Kevin Shields, the 'one handed climber'. Saturday 13th February - Jimmy Marshall: The Architect Of Modern Scottish Climbing. An evening to celebrate the incredible achievements of Jimmy Marshall and fellow climber Robin Smith when, in February 1960, they climbed six first winter ascents of Ben Nevis on consecutive days. The fact that they achieved this by cutting steps up the snow and ice appears, from the remove of the 21st century, to be almost impossible. Exactly 50 years on to the day two legends of modern Scottish climbing, Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner, will repeat what has been described as the most important week of Scottish climbing ever! (6 - 13 February). Dave and Andy will present their experiences with film clips of the ascents (filmed by Phil Diffley), comparing the 21st Century experience of climbing the same routes using state of the art equipment and techniques with Jimmy's recollections of the first ascents. This is a must for all climbers and outdoor enthusiasts. Sunday 14th February - The Best of Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour - From jaw dropping action to fascinating mountain culture and wildlife the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour has it all. The most inspiring mountain films from around the world will once again be the festival hot ticket. Monday 15 February The 2010 Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture will be awarded to this year's winner on Sunday 14 February. The prestigious award that celebrates outstanding contributions to Scotland's mountains, encompassing sport, theatre, art, photography, film and literature was first introduced in 2008. World-renowned climber and pioneer, Dr Hamish MacInnes, and award winning filmmaker and documentary producer Richard Else were the recipients in 2008 and 2009 respectively. Children and adults will have the opportunity to try out new activities and learn new skills through inspirational daily mountain skills workshops during the Festival. Highly experienced and fully qualified guides from Abacus Mountaineering, in conjunction with Nevis Range, will lead full day courses in avalanche awareness, winter walking and winter climbing. Kinlochleven's Ice Factor Indoor Climbing Centre will be offering taster sessions in indoor climbing and ice climbing throughout the festival. For those keen to explore their creative ideas in a stimulating environment Nevis Pix will run a one day wildlife photography workshop and Wild West Safaris will offer a Red Deer Safari during the Festival. This will be a great opportunity to not only get up close and personal with the herds of red deer at Loch Quoich but also the possibility of photographing Golden Eagles and Goldeneye Ducks. If the kids are tempted by the opportunity of cooking their own soup and making their own sandwiches followed by a wet muddy walk then the Forestry Commission Scotland's Wet Winter Welly Walk will be their Festival highlight.  For full details of the Fort William Mountain Festival programme and to book tickets go to - http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk Reported 27th January 2010

 

Red Chili Rock Shoe Demo at The Newcastle Climbing Centre on Tuesday 26th January 2010. Try the new Matador and Urban Climber rock shoes for the evening and enter a prize draw to win the pair of your choice! Check out the Newcastle Climbing Centre website for more details. Also the bouldering comp results are here. Reported 25th January 2010

 

The Junior British Climbing Team will be in the North East on 23rd and 24th January. "We will spend the day at Climb Newcastle on the Saturday and at Newcastle Climbing Centre on the Sunday. This is the first time the Team has trained in the North East perhaps something to do with team manager Ian Dunn being from Hartlepool and me coming from Barnard Castle. We have 40 on the team. Five of the team members are in a new Elite category and will be given the opportunity to compete in a full European Youth Series." Jane Newman, assistant manager. Reported 20th January 2010

 

Newcastle Climbing Centre. Get down this Friday evening 5pm till 9.30pm for the second round of the Cassin & Camp Boulder Comp your best two scores count so you haven’t missed out on the prizes. Its free all you pay is your entry fee – all score cards in by 9.30pm. Check out the Newcastle Climbing Centre website for more details. Reported 18th January 2010

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series Results. A huge entry battled it out on another great set of 35 problems. Nigel Callender amassed a terrific score of 328 to win ahead of Rich Gill. Charlotte Telfer surprised everyone with her excellent result ahead of Karin Magog meanwhile Steve Crowe surprised himself by narrowly beating Martin Waugh (who should have known better, climbing with that injured shoulder) and Charlottes dad Karl Telfer in the old mans category. Sid Graham scored a fantastic 237 as first Junior female, while first Junior male, Tom Rookes with 290 points was also joint 7th overall.   Reported 18th January 2010

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series is Back... this Friday January 15th is the 3rd round of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series. The scores are tight but the series leaders are beginning to emerge with Rich Gill and Karin Magog inching out to a slender lead, things are more open in the crucial mini rivalries lower down the rankings! And if you haven't yet joined in the North's most popular climbing event yet, here is the essential information... You have from 1pm until 9pm on the day to try 35 new black problems which range from very very easy to very very hard. Write down your scores on the scorecard generously supplied to you and hand that in, it is also your ticket to the massive raffle which will take place at around 9:15pm. In addition you can also win £50 from Climb Newcastle owners Andy Earl and Chris Graham's pockets by taking the creatively named £50 problem challenge...basically they set a 'tricky' problem and the first person to climb it wins the cash - simple as that ;-) That's about all you need to know. There's more info, photos and results from the previous rounds and more on the Winter Bouldering Series page. http://events.climbnewcastle.com/wbs0910.html Reported 13th January 2010

 

Steve McClure Master Class at Newcastle Climbing Centre. Spring is in the air and that Easter trip will soon here. Maybe you would benefit from a Master Class with Steve McClure to help get your self back into shape? There will be three master classes on Sunday 17th January 2010, each lasting 1.5 hrs with max of 4 people per class. All participants must be registered Newcastle Climbing Centre members with the ability to lead 4+. The class times are: 10.30 – 12.00 1.00 - 2.30 3.00 - 4.30 For availability and booking please contact Newcastle Climbing Centre via their website. Act soon to avoid disappointment!  Reported 12th January 2010

FRANCE Haute Provence by Adrian Berry reviewed by Karin Magog. This is Rockfax's latest guide and certainly doesn't disappoint. It basically covers the area east of the main autoroute du soleil, between the towns of Gap in the north-east and Avignon in the south-west, or in crag terms Ceuse in the north and Buoux in the south. The guide covers fourteen crags in total with some of the other well known crags in the guide being St Leger, Volx, Sisteron, Orpierre and Les Dentelles. The area is divided into four geographical regions each of which come with the usual detailed info such as map, where to stay and local guidebooks. The individual crags then have their own intro giving you an idea of what to expect from the crag, best time to visit and how to find it. As you would expect each crag also comes complete with clear photo topos, which give an excellent indication of what to expect from the climbing. The guide seems well balanced with a good mix of high and low grade venues and routes, therefore offering something for everyone. Obviously this area has many outstanding crags and the author needed to be selective, however I was still disappointed to find Ventavon missing for example and some of the routes I'd done at both Buoux and Ceuse didn't make the cut either, but I know it's impossible to put everything in. The action photos are okay, generally reinforcing the nature of the climbing at that particular crag rather than inspiring you to do a certain route. However, for me the one of Toby Dunn climbing Mariotte at Combe Obscure really stood out. If you ever wondered what a 7c slab would be like check out page 183 – horrendous! One design feature that I wasn't too keen on was the see through textboxes on top of some of the photos. It's a good space saving idea I agree but personally I would just make them white, less distracting. On the whole the guide seems well researched and pretty accurate, however, one typo that stood out was the sentence that suggests that the Cascade area at Ceuse gets the sun until late morning when in fact that's the only time it's not in the sun, a very important difference. On the whole an excellent, well put together guide and a good effort by Adrian. For a sport climbing holiday this area of France should be high on everyone's list of places to visit, making this guide an essential buy. FRANCE Haute Provence by Adrian Berry is be available now, price £21.95. More reviews here. Reviewed 9th January 2010   FRANCE-Haute Provence by Adrian Berry Published by Rockfax

Winter Climbing in the North East. The most popular venue in Northumberland is Bizzle Burn in the Cheviots. Many of the quarries in Teesdale and Weardale Cringle Crag on the North York Moors will be in good condition but getting to them on the the roads may be the crux just now! Winter walks can be challenging and rewarding, however the sandstone outcrops get very soft when they get wet and should not be considered appropriate venues for ice axes and crampons. Cliff Lowther has reported good fun conditions up at Bollihope Burn if you can get there! See more on his blog: http://www.roxcool.co.uk/blog.asp?BlogID=62. There are 20 or more good lines estimated III - VI+. It doesn't really look suitable for leading at the moment (friable rock and thin and/or potentially loose ice). The best top rope anchors are off a fence about 70m back from the edge. Some posts are extremely rotten, while others seem pretty good if paired up. Franco Cooksons exploits up on Cringle Crag on the North York Moors are described here: http://francocookson-climbing.blogspot.com/. However the superb summer classic Night Watch at Whitestone Cliffe has been hacked and scratched by selfish winter climbers, leaving lasting scars, so please choose your routes wisely! Read the North East winter climbing thread on UKC.  Reported 6th January 2010

High Force December 2009     Photo: Steve Crowe

 

Allcord Bouldering Series at Sunderland Wall. Round two is on Monday 11th January 2010, 5pm till 9pm. Reported 6th January 2010

 

Yoga for Climbers. A 6 week programme starts Thursday 14th January 2010. Basic Yoga postures and breathing exercises with an emphasis on how these exercises can help your climbing. Also round two of the Cassin & Camp Bouldering Series is on Fri 22nd Jan from 5pm till 9.30pm, remember your best two scores count. For more details check at www.newcastleclimbingcentre.co.uk.  Reported 5th January 2010

The Climb Newcastle winter sale isn't one of those high street sales with good offers only on the junk, it is 15% off absolutely everything in the shop. And that isn't off the RRP prices either, it's off their already low prices meaning there are some real bargains. Why not get yourself down to the centre and kill two birds with one stone, by working off the mince pies while you shop. Alternatively you can check out the range of products for purchase online (www.climbnewcastle.com/shop). Reported 27th December 2009

 

Christmas Opening Hours. The crags are open all hours as usual, the same can't be said about the roads though! Please don't climb on wet sandstone, as the silica bonds are weakened and holds can more easily break doing irreparable damage to the crags (and maybe yourself too)! The climbing wall opening times can be found via the following links: Climb Newcastle, Durham Climbing Centre, Sunderland Wall. For Newcastle Climbing Centre, see details below. Reported 23rd December 2009

Bouldering at Fontainebleau

 

Newcastle Climbing Centre has asked me to pass on Christmas Greetings to followers of Climbonline. Why not combine your last minute Christmas Shopping with a last minute climbing session! NCC have the perfect gifts for climbers all under one roof... * £10 & £20 vouchers ideal stocking fillers these can be purchased at reception, and used for entry to NNC or indoor course (does not include SPA or CWA)10 and 20 climb punch card (must be a registered member of the centre). More info...  Their opening hours over the festive period are as follows:

 

Eden Valley Mountaineering Club, Winter Lecture Series – 2010. All Lectures At Penrith Rugby Club Monday - 11 January, James McHaffie "Rock Climbing From Keswick To Grand Capucin Via Madagaskar" 7.30pm - Admission £5.00. More details here. Reported 20th December 2009

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series. There was a huge turn out for round two and the problems were as interesting and varied as ever. The £100 rollover prize problem eventually fell to Paul Smith despite some fine efforts from Rich Gill early on. However Rich won on with 337 out of a possible 350 points. Karin Magog put in a powerful performance to score 301 as first female. Karl Telfer and Ali McDonald were first in the vets, whilst in the under 16 categories Sid Graham and Tom Rookes are taking an early series lead. The full results can be found @ climbnewcastle.com  Reported 12th December 2009

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series. This Friday, 11th December, the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series is back for round two and if you weren't at round one this is your chance to come and see why this is probably the UK's most popular indoor climbing competition! You have until 9pm on the day to try 35 super new black problems from very very easy to very very hard, get a score, enter an unbelievably generous raffle with hundreds of pounds of prizes, try and win £50 cash, NO HANG ON, £100 cash (it's a rollover) from the Climb Newcastle owners and generally have a really really good time! There's also overall prizes and trophies for juniors (U16s), adults and 'proper' vets (45 and over!) with 4 out of 5 scores counting from the series rounds, and with tough problems at round one you've every chance of catching up if you missed it. There's more info @ climbnewcastle.com See you there? Reported 7th December 2009

 

Dave Birkett Lecture and film at the Newcastle Climbing Centre. Dave Birkett has been at the top of his game for over twenty years, with countless first ascents in the Lakes and beyond. A brilliant climber and certainly the finest the lakes has ever produced. And although his forte is ‘Trad’ routes Dave is no weakling and has also excelled at bouldering and has many sports ticks to his name including the Lakes only 8B+. More details about the lecture can be found here. Watch clips of Dave Birkett climbing at the Posing Productions web site.

A few tickets still available for the Dave Birkett Lecture this Saturday 5^th Dec 2009

·         7.30     Take your seats

·         7.45     Wild Country FREE give away

·         8.00     Lecture start

Keep your ticket to gain a free climb and all for £10  Reported 4th December 2009

 

ALLCORD BOULDERING SERIES RD ONE - will be held at Sunderland Wall on Monday 7th December 2009 Activities will start at 5pm and finish promptly at 9pm! Round Two will be at 5pm on Monday 11th January 2010 Round Three will be at 5pm on Monday 8th February 2010 Reported 1st December 2009

Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series got off to a great start with an excellent turn out. Paul Smith and Charlie Telfer looking stronger than ever despite the tough set of problems this time. Sidonie Graham and Tom Rookes topping the junior categories and Rick Barnes & Ali McDonald were first vets. James (I want to be a Vet) Hunter had to settle for 30th Senior with 248 points. Round Two is on Friday 15th December. Details of future events here.  Reported 27th November 2009 Click images to enlarge

Shiatsu Performance Massage @ Newcastle Climbing Centre. Shiatsu can be used to reduce muscle fatigue, increase energy levels, improve flexibility and enhance performance. The service is designed specifically around the individual needs of the climber and can be used before or after the climbing session. Shiatsu Performance Massage is now available at Newcastle Climbing Centre every Tuesday from 12pm - 8.30pm. A Special Introductory Offer for the 24th November & 1st December 30 minutes £10 (normal price £20) 60 minutes £20 (normal price £35). Visit www.shiatsu-works.co.uk for further details or to book an appointment. Reported 24th November 2009

Visit www.shiatsu-works.co.uk for further details

Climb Newcastle Birthday Competition and Party. A great time was had by all at Climb Newcastle's 1st birthday party on Friday night. In the fun competition held at the centre during the day there were 35 problems of all varieties including the "Byker Groove" challenge laid down by Climb Newcastle co-owner Chris Graham (see the video on http://www.youtube.com/user/climbnewcastle), a challenge met only by Ged MacDomnhnaill during the event! There were plenty of more amenable problems too, with all abilities and an age range of 5 to 75 taking part. Although most were too busy having fun to care who was winning, it was Rich Gill and Karin Magog who took top male and female scores, with some impressive scores too for many of the junior and vet entrants. Well done everyone who took part! In the evening, Hyem Bar on Chillingham Road hosted an after-party, impressively attended by almost all of the days participants and many more joining in the celebrations. After birthday cake and buffet over £1000 of prizes were drawn out, leaving few to go home empty handed. Here's looking forward to Climb Newcastle is Two in year's time! The full results and more pictures can be found here Climb Newcastle along with details about forthcoming events. Reported 26th October 2009

More pictures can be found at Climb Newcastle

More Malham News. Jenny Woodward has signed off a very successful summer with her ascent of Predator 8b. Meanwhile Jordan Buys climbed his second 8b+ with his recent ascent of Power Ranger. Also two climbers originally from the North East, Neil Mawson and Steve McClure, have recently made the 9th and 10th ascents of Mark Leach's classic Malham test-piece Cry Freedom 8b+. More details on UKC.  Reported 23rd October 2009

Jenny Woodward on Predator 8b            Photo: Steve Crowe	Jordan Buys on Power Ranger 8b+          Photo: Steve Crowe

Climb Newcastle Birthday Competition and Party. Next Friday, the 23rd October, it will be one year since Climb Newcastle opened its doors. The centre, the vision and hard work of local climbers Andy Earl, Chris Graham and Darren Stevenson, is hosting a competition and party to celebrate! If you entered one of Climb Newcastle's competitions last year you will know that they are great fun! The event kicks off next Friday at 1pm and you can come down any time before 9pm to try 35 problems at all levels. There is no extra cost, just your normal entry fee, and everyone who hands in a scorecard will be entered into a raffle with £1000 (yes three zeros) of prizes to be given away at the after-party. The after-party itself kicks off at 9pm and is being hosted in the function room at HYEM bar on Chillingham Road, where there'll be birthday cake and nibbles waiting for you. Entry is free to the after-party, with the raffle at about 10pm, so get yourself spruced up after the comp and come down and join the fun. See you there! Reported 16th October 2009

The Central Wall at Malham finally repeated after 21 years. John Dunne, free climbed the line of the old aid route Superdirectissima in 1988. It climbs the very centre of Malham Cove and it incorporates Something Stupid 7b, continued up The Groove 8a+, then Free and Easy 7c before sweeping left to finish on the top of the crag. John called this Totally Free and graded 8b, it has never been repeated. "Rather than following Johns line exactly, I decided to climb right from the top of Free and Easy to finish up Breach of the Peace. My line Central Wall (aka Totally Free II) is also 8b. My belayer was nearly 70 meters away, down on the cat walk so rope drag was an issue for the last few clips. I would like to thank Andy Brown for his consistent encouragement to stick with the project, Rob Fielding for telling me to stop making excuses and George Hayden for giving me tips to gain extra power when I felt I had plateaued. Also all my belayers over the last six years but I can't remember everyone! My wife Karin Magog, my mentor Chris Sowden, Jenny Woodward, and more recently Owen, Will, Eddie, Tim and Andy Watmough. Cheers guys it was a long haul." Steve Crowe. Reported 15th October 2009

Steve Crowe climbing Central Wall (aka Totally Free II) 8b (click images!)

The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club have recently developed a new web site at http://www.thenmc.org.uk/ . All climbers are welcome to visit the website. There is information about the NMC and how to join. There is an active forum and an online climbing guide where you can report all you new routes. Reported 12th October 2009

A Spectacular All Day Climbing Festival at Newcastle Climbing Centre. This Saturday 10th October starting at 10am. Tickets are ONLY £10. All Inclusive; includes lecture and allows registered users full access to centre all day and After Party Entry. • AUTO BELAY COMP / ALL AGE GROUPS • KIDS CLUB CLIMBING COMP • LA SPORTIVA BOOT DEMO & FORUM • FUN BOULDER COMP • GRESHAM / McCLURE LECTURE • AFTER EVENT PARTY EVENT INCLUDES – • LA SPORTIVA STAND • NICAS STAND • NEWCASTLE CLIMBING COURSE INFO. • BMC STAND • CLIMB MAGAZINE STAND • RAFFLE PRIZES • SPOT PRIZES • AUTO BELAY RELAY. For further details and tickets please contact 0191 265 6060 Newcastle Climbing Centre St Marks Church, 285 Shields Rd, Newcastle upon Tyne NE6 2UQ.

 

Sunderland Wall: New 23m routes. Ian Vickers and Jamie Cassidy have reset all the 23m lead walls with more routes on in the lower grades. Please get down and tell the staff what you think! Reported 4th October 2009

 

Summer Round up. A flurry of activity has been reported recently. On the North York Moors Franco Cookson has claimed the first onsight flash of Desperate Den up on Highcliffe Nab complete with the direct start. Franco suggested that E6 may be more appropriate. Up in Northumberland at Ravensheugh Graeme Read and Ben Gilbert added Borstal Breakout E5 6c which is in essence a straightened version of Borstal Boy, only much harder, finishing well to the right of Paradise Lost. Ben Gilbert has made the second ascent of Childhoods End Direct at Ravensheugh confirming the grade at E6 6b/c, and all three stars! Tony Marr has added many new routes up on The Wainstones, Scugdale and Ingleby Incline. Meanwhile in County Durham a new route has been climbed at Causey Quarry by Peter Holder. Unbreakable (E6) climbs the roof and wall 1m left of Mangler.  Reported 11th September 2009

Franco Cookson on the first onsight flash of Desperate Den, Highcliffe Nab

Raven's Scar Access Problems. Tony Marr comments "A new wire fence has been installed all along the side of Hasty Bank (beneath Raven's Scar) in the same place as the old one however, the access stile to Raven Scar has not been replaced. Access to Raven's Scar is currently from the summit path." Reported 10th September 2009

BMC North East Area. The NE Area meeting scheduled for Monday 7th September has been cancelled due to unforeseen circumstances. The next meeting (and AGM) is scheduled for Monday 30th November at 7.30pm at the Stone Bridge Inn, Durham. If you have any questions about the meetings get in touch with Martin Kocis at the BMC on 0161 438 3336. Keep up to date here. Reported 5th September 2009

Friction at Climb Newcastle Climbnewcastle has undergone a colourful transformation over the last three weeks with all of their climbing surfaces in the main bouldering arena getting a coat of friction and a repaint. Of course this means that there are plenty of new problems to try, with 200 problems added since maintenance began. These include the seven colour coded sets of climbs from font 3 to font 8a, plus another 100 move climb, probably Britain's longest set indoor climb and the ultimate test of endurance! Climbnewcastle want to say a big thanks to their customers for being so patient (and enthusiastic) during the maintenance, and have brought in an eighth colour set in black which covers the entire spectrum of difficulty so that everyone can enjoy a brand new set of holds and more problems in the centre. The new blacks have already been set so print off the circuits right now as a downloadable PDF and then go to Byker Baths and tick them off!   Reported 17th August 2009 You can print off the circuits right now as a downloadable PDF.

Kyloe Crag Closed Again! Following on from the work done last month The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club have arranged for two more trees to be felled at Kyloe Crag (Kyloe Out) on Saturday 15th August 2009 . Access to the crag will be closed all day on Saturday. The work will again be carried out by local climber and tree surgeon Andy Cowley. Reported 11th August 2009

Kyloe Crag closed again for more tree felling on Saturday 15th August 2009

The New Pembroke Rockfax is due out in August 2009. The popular first edition of the Pembroke Rockfax was published in 1995. The second edition, by Alan James and Mike Robertson, is completely updated with stunning crag photos throughout. The book is currently at the printers and should be available for dispatch in the week beginning 10th August. The quickest way to get hold of a copy is to order online since pre-orders are dispatched first. Shops can expect stock to arrive for the weekend of 15/16 August. Order online NOW.  Reported 8th August 2009

Order online NOW.

Newcastle Climbing Centre Bouldering Wall is to be reset this weekend. The bouldering wall will be closed on Saturday 8th September at 4pm. The rest of the centre will be open for climbing as usual. The bouldering area will reopen on Monday 10th at 6pm. The entire wall is to be stripped and reset by Micky Page and Micky Stainthorpe. Read more here. Also you may want to put this date in your diary: Saturday 10th October 2009. Outside In is an all day event which starts at 10am. Entry is £15. Reported 5th August 2009

The bouldering wall will be closed on Saturday 8th September at 4pm for resetting.

Epic Adventures. Gaz Parry returned from Spain to the UK this summer to promote his new business Epic Adventures which is based near Oliva and Gandia in the Northern Costa Blanca. Gaz Parry with his partner Kate Mills offer coaching/climbing holidays to a variety of locations, this years programme includes Costa Blanca Sport climbing, Albarracin Bouldering and Exotic Thailand. Gaz Parry is both strong and fit! While he was here Gaz redpointed True North at Kilnsey (his third 8c this year) was well placed in the British Leading Championships and managed a podium place in the British Bouldering Championships. "We aim to offer affordable climbing holidays that are individually tailored for each client and are not purely coaching based." commented Gaz and Kate. More info regarding forthcoming trips can be found on their Epic Adventures web site. Reported 1st August 2009

More info can be found on their Epic Adventures web site.

Mount Everest. Do you want to climb Mount Everest? Climbing at such enormous altitudes is not safe, and the risks involved are significant. Jagged Globe 8,000 metre peak expeditions are among the best. More details about Jagged Globe Expeditions here. Do you want to keep up to date with the British Expeditions on Mount Everest? At 'Mount Everest The British Story www.everest1953.co.uk  you can do just that! During the Everest climbing season there are updates nearly every day, giving information on how the British are doing and any other important Everest news from around the world. This is a dedicated website for the armchair Mount Everest fan. You will find a comprehensive history, from the first British Expedition to the present day, a detailed list of summiteers who have reached the top of the world, amazing facts, a excellent gallery, Everest polls and much more. Reported 30th July 2009

Jenny Woodward takes the Yorkshire Triple Crown. Jenny Woodward grabbed the second female ascent of the classic route The Groove F8a+ at Malham on Saturday, timing her ascent nicely before the seepage took hold. This makes Jenny the first female to climb the 'Yorkshire's big three 8a+'s: Supercool, Urgent Action and The Groove, a fine effort. Jenny commented "I would like to thank my many patient belayers (Andy, Rob, Steve, Owen, Bev and Ashley) and baby-sitters!". Jenny has also ticked A Man with a Gun and Dreamtime recently (both top end F7c+), showing that she's back to top form since giving birth to her daughter 19 months ago. Other notable female ascents from Yorkshire include Naomi Buys speedy ascent of Dead Calm at Kilnsey to tick her first F8a and Karin Magog's ascents back in May of Climb of the Century F8b and Zoolook F8a (both at Malham) and a fast redpoint of Dead Calm earlier this month. Young Katy Whittaker's recent on-sights of two classic F7c's at Kilnsey in a day (Dominatrix and Biological Need) was superb, and a good indicator for the future. Reported 22nd July 2009

Jenny Woodward is the first female to climb the 'Yorkshire big three' of Supercool, Urgent Action and The Groove

Kyloe Crag Closed. Following negotiations with the owners, The Northumbrian Mountaineering Club have arranged to have some trees felled at Kyloe Crag (Kyloe Out). Access to the crag will be closed all day on Saturday 25th July 2009. The work will be carried out by local climber and tree surgeon Andy Cowley. Reported 21st July 2009

Kyloe Crag closed for tree felling on Saturday 25th July 2009

Summer Holiday Kids Climbing at Climbnewcastle. July 20th - August 28th 2009. Climb Newcastle have an exciting series of climbing activities for kids and families this Summer including a Junior Coaching Academy. Family Foundation Sessions will provide fun for all the family and the popular kids Rock Stars sessions will be themed this Summer Holiday! Visit the Climbnewcastle website for full details of their extensive summer programme. Remember Climbnewcastle set a new coloured circuit EVERY week. All the problems in the pool area on last  weeks new Purple/Lilac circuit can be linked into a monster 100 move endurance epic! This weeks new Grey is even tougher with problems from Font 7a through to Font 8a. Print off the circuits right now as a downloadable PDF and then go to Climbnewcastle and tick them off!   Reported 17th July 2009

Durham Climbing Centre - Summer Fun! A full and active 6 week programme commences on Sunday 19th July 12pm - 4pm: Free: Taster Climbing Sessions for new members Free: Kindermusik movement to music classes for Under 5's Raffle: Top prizes Annual Family Pass worth over £1300 PLUS Annual Single Pass worth £350 Also Pony Rides with Jingo. Plus the Red and Green circuits have both been reset this week. Don't forget a new coloured circuit is reset regularly EVERY friday. Visit the Durham Climbing Centre web site for details of the full six week Summer Holiday Programme. Reported 17th July 2009

Unlimited Climbing Access at Newcastle Climbing Centre. Newcastle Climbing Centre are offering seven weeks unlimited entry for £70 so if you are frustrated by the unreliable British Summer weather or just want to boost your fitness by adding a few more quick sessions then check out the details at the Newcastle Climbing Centre web site. Reported 17th July 2009

Eric Rhodes (former chairman of The Leeds Wall) passed away peacefully on Thursday morning. He was fighting cancer for a long time. Eric was one of the main instigators in bringing a major modern climbing wall to the Leeds area. The Leeds Wall, under his direction, has grown to be well known and well used. A very active and enthusiastic rock climber he also produced the excellent diagrams for the 1989 Yorkshire Gritstone Guide and the 1993 Bouldering on Yorkshire Gritstone Guide. Eric climbed and walked in the UK, the Alps and the Himalaya's and found time to raise 3 children and helped to look after 5 grandchildren. His funeral is to held be at Rawden Crematorium, Rawden Road (A65), 11.40am Thursday 16 July 2009. Reported 12th July 2009

Whitestonecliffe Traverse Freed At Last! Luke Hunt and Franco Cookson have made the first free traverse of Whitestone Cliffe. "We alt led the first three pitches, then Luke led the Aid pitch, whilst i climbed the Blitzkrieg and 'pitch 6', we simul - climbed the rest, with Luke leading Jurassic Scarp (7.5 hours). It's an absolutely amazing route" Franco Cookson. Further south and a lot more solid Matt Troilett has added an new route sports route to Kilnsey Crag. The Perfect Storm weighs in at F7c+ and is worth a couple of stars. Climb Dead Calm for 2 bolts after you leave the overlap then move left to under a roof make a crux move into a groove climb left to bolt belay. Reported 11th July 2009

Whitestonecliffe Traverse Freed At Last! by Luke Hunt and Franco Cookson

Cliffhanger, Sheffield. Cliffhanger is one of the UK’s largest outdoor outdoor-pursuits festivals. The aim of the event is to Inspire & Involve. Featuring competitions or demonstrations in rock climbing, orienteering, kayaking, mountain biking, running, skiing & snowboarding, skateboarding, free running, adventure racing and more, visitors will be able to watch elite sports-people of all ages competing or demonstrating, and then take part in the sports they have just been inspired by. It's a good old fashioned British weather forecast for the weekend! Cloudy, sunny, rainy, a bit of everything! A good job there's plenty to do regardless of the weather. If you haven't seen it already, check out the Cliffhanger film it's been watched over 3,000 times in the last week. Reported 8th July 2009

Access Restrictions Lifted. The bird restrictions at Blue Scar have now been lifted. It looks as though the breeding attempts have failed here this year even though a pair of adults is still present. Further afield it has been announced that access to the crags in Castlemartin Range East in Pembroke will be significantly improved this August. For the first two weeks of August climbers will be able to access all the crags from St Govan's Car Park all the way to Bullslaughter Bay at all times. After the 14th the whole of Range East will be open up to and including the Bank Holiday on 31st August. Check the BMC access database (RAD) for the latest access updates.

WESTERN GRIT by Chris Craggs and Alan James, Published by Rockfax, Reviewed by Karin Magog Before I start this review I feel I should point out that this is an area of the country that I have little experience of.  Apart a couple of brief visits to The Roaches back in my student days I haven’t climbed at any of the crags in the guide.  However, that may change after pouring through the latest Rockfax and seeing all this large area has to offer.   The guide is divided into seven geographical areas, Staffordshire Grit, Windgather Area, Kinder Scout, Bleaklow, Chew Valley, Lancashire and the Cheshire Sandstone.  Each section is introduced with the now standard double-page photo and is accompanied with a general map marking the crags in that section.  Each individual crag has a more detailed map, a brief introduction, approach, a paragraph on conditions and a table which summarises the number and quality of routes in each grade band.  As you would expect with Rockfax the guide offers clear photo-topos with accompanying route descriptions.  The lay-out appears more spaced out and less cluttered than some of their other, more recent guides, better to have a few more pages and a clear, concise guide, than to produce a more crowded, but slightly less bulky guide.  One thing I really liked about the guide was the good number of action shots, which represented the full spread of grades on offer and the fantastic settings of many of the crags (good examples being the photos of Hanging Crack at Dovestones Edge and Ivory Tower at Kinder South, to name just two.)   No Rockfax would be complete without the usual detailed introduction, info on accommodation, local pubs, etc.  There’s also a selected graded list based on grade voting on the Rockfax Route Database, and a useful route index at the back of the guide. All in all another classy Rockfax production which showcases the delights this vast area has to offer. Western Grit by Chris Craggs and Alan James is be available now, price £21.95.  More reviews here. Reviewed 7th July 2009 Western Grit

Young climbers enjoy first taste of success in Arco, Italy. The weekend of June the 6th and 7th saw North East climbers Jack Graham 9yrs, and Mairi Teasdale 10yrs competing in the prestigious Rock Junior under 14 cup in the fabulous town of Arco, Italy. For both youngsters it was there first trip to Europe to compete with others their age from around the world. The competition included three disciplines with an overall winner. These were firstly speed climbing, which both Jack and Mairi had no previous experience of. Secondly bouldering, which was in a very different format to what the pair had previously experienced. They had 30 minutes to complete 5 problems with around 35 other competitors in their categories, which proved, time wise impossible. lastly they had two top rope climbs, one Saturday, the second Sunday. Both climbs being extremely difficult on the very steep Arco competition walls. However despite all of this they both performed brilliantly returning home with some fantastic results. Jack coming 10th in the boys B category and Mairi 7th in the girls B category. Both were extremely pleased with their new global rankings and are already talking of returning next year. Reported 27th June 2009

Jack Graham powering into 10th place	Mairi Teasdale crimping into 7th place.

Relaxanation is now offering seated massages at Newcastle International Airport. You can find them in the departure lounge next to Cafe Ritazza. Unwind after the stress of packing all your climbing gear into 15kg! Relax and chillout while Relaxanation get those last minute shoulder and neck niggles sorted out before your flight. Reported 24th June 2009

Relaxanation at Newcastle Airport

Heckley Crag Access Restriction. The informal access arrangements that climbers have enjoyed at Heckley Crag have been suspended by the owner (Duke of Northumberland). Check the BMC access database (RAD) for the latest access updates. Climbing should not attempt to go there until further notice.  "I'm hoping to negotiate re-establishment of access later this summer (but to be honest I'm not optimistic about my chances of success)." Richard Pow June 2009 Reported 21st June 2009

Open Season at Ravensheugh. Graeme has also added yet another 3 star route at Ravensheugh, this time climbing through the slopers to give Childhoods End a spectacular and hard direct finish. Graeme has suggested a grade of E6 6b/c-ish. Graeme Read also recently capped a fantastic day up at Ravensheugh with perhaps the second ascent of Crocodile Arête. "Its a fantastic time to be at the crag. There were actually more people at Ravensheugh today than Simonside, 25 at least, that's got to be a first! Bowden Doors must have been closed or something!" Graeme Read. Ben Gilbert made the third ascent a week later and they both consider the grade to be E6 6b. Below is a list of all the routes at the crag which have either been climbed or have been cleaned; Plumbline Judas Hole Pendulum Octopus Reiver Smarty Pants Half Minute Crack Crocodile Arête Candle in the Wind Gates of Eden First Among Equals Ravensheugh Crack Childhoods End Wild West Show Hang em High Grease Plumber Elsewhere in Northumberland Dave Birkett made what is probably the second ascent of Greenford Road Direct. Greenford Road was first climbed by Tommy Smith in 1980 and the direct start was added by Karl Telfer soon after thinking he was repeating Tommy route! Mark Savage soloed Karl Telfer's direct line in 2003. Dave Birkett lead the direct line placing gear higher up but chose not to place the runner in Sandy Crack. Reported 1st June 2009

Gordale Climbing Restrictions have been lifted. The Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority have now lifted the nesting restriction covering a number of routes at Gordale Scar. The birds may be nesting elsewhere at the crag, so please check the RAD for any updates Here. Unaffected by the restrictions the popular (Extreme Rock tick) Cave Route Right Hand was climbed and cleaned recently and the tat has been replaced. At least one set of wires is essential to back up the pegs. Reported 27th May 2009

Gordale Scar

ROXCOOL is a professional instructional business based in the North East of England who specialise in climbing and mountaineering courses but also offer opportunities for adventures throughout the world. Roxcool are providers of both climbing related National Governing Body awards, such as the Climbing Wall Award (CWA) and Single Pitch Award (SPA), as well as offering technical self improvement courses relating to safe systems used in climbing and mountaineering situations. Roxcool also provide a guiding service so you can enjoy and access some of the classic climbs and scrambles of The Lake District. Although the company name is new Cliff Lowther has been involved in the delivery of these courses for many years and have many satisfied customers. Read more on the Roxcool website. Reported 22nd May 2009

Half Term Rock Stars at Durham Climbing Centre. Children's Classes will be running everyday - Mon 25th May - Friday 29th May Bookings Taken Now! 3 - 7 years 12.00pm - 1.00pm. 8 - 12 years 1.00pm - 2.30pm. Phone 0191 3789555 to book. Bank Holiday Opening hours are: SAT 23rd 10AM - 9PM, SUN 24th 10AM - 8PM, MON 25th 10AM - 7PM.  More details can be found here. Reported 20th May 2009

Solid Performance buy the North East Team.  The BMC are hosting a round of the European Youth Cup at Ratho in September, and held a selection day for aspiring entrants on Saturday 8th May. Several young local climbers took part, and as a result, Alistair Pow and Dan Walton have been selected to represent Great Britain at this event in September. Ben is already an aspirant member of the British Junior team, due to his achievements at previous selection days. Three others, Beth Walton, Sam Brannigan and Ben Patterson have been not yet been selected, but included in the squad from which the final team will be chosen. In the words of Jane Newman – “Ali surprised them all, a stunning performance, easily the best”. Ali flashed the first two routes so was in the lead before the final. Coming last out of isolation he moved smoothly through the crux at half height that had stopped all the rest, except fellow NE climber Ben Patterson. He pressed on passing Ben’s high point and was within one move of topping out. (Established GB team member Shauna Coxsy was the only junior to send that route). It was a great North East performance. As Adam Watson said “Tell Ali good effort! And to the whole NE team – so psyched for everyone”.  Reported 14th May 2009

The Bouldering Series at Durham Climbing Centre was a great success with a huge turn out. All categories were competing on the same 40 excellent problems and that showed some surprising statistics in the overall results. Junior Jamie Naden put in an excellent performance to post the best score on the night with an awesome 307 points. Meanwhile Vet Steve Crowe made second place with 289 scraping in just two points ahead of Andrew Dixon. Karin Magog was first in the Female category and came in joint forth place overall with Robert Gowdy with a tally of 274 points. The results from all the rounds can be found here. Reported 14th May 2009

The Third Round of the Bouldering Series at Durham Climbing Centre is on Friday 8th May from 5.30pm until 9.30pm. This round is sponsored by Boreal and the problems will be set by Ian Vickers, Jamie Cassidy & Andy Chapman. Even more volumes have been added with a complete reset in advanced wall area. You can finish off your session on the brand new Beastmaker fingerboard! The results from rounds one and two can be found here. Reported 7th May 2009

BMC are to run Two National Climbing Competitions in the summer of 2009. Entries are now open for the two premier British climbing championships:  The British Bouldering Championships will take place at the Cliffhanger outdoors festival in Sheffield on 11-12 July. The following weekend the British Lead Climbing Championships will take place at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena on 18-19 July. More details here. Rob Adie, BMC Competitions Officer comments “Entries are now open so if you think you’ve got what it takes to compete, then why not enter? We look forward to welcoming new and established competitors." Application forms are available to download at www.thebmc.co.uk/blcc and www.thebmc.co.uk/bbc. Reported 5th May 2009

Western Grit by Chris Craggs and Alan James is now in stock at Rockfax and will be available from climbing shops very soon. ORDER NOW RRP £21.95 with FREE delivery in the UK. The crags covered will be similar to the last edition with a few new buttresses and the less cramped coverage contributing an extra 100 pages to the book. The complete list is below but it ranges from the popular Staffordshire gritstone edges of the Roaches, Hen Cloud and Ramshaw up onto the remote Kinder and Bleaklow moorland crags. Also contained are the superb Chew Valley edges, the best of the Lancashire crags and the fine sandstone buttresses on Merseyside of Helsby, Pex Hill and Frodsham. Reported 2nd May 2009   Western Grit

New Routes and Impressive Repeats! Down in Yorkshire, Karin Magog has made a successful ascent of Climb of the Century F8b at Malham Cove. "My new Beastmaker finger board is paying dividends already." Over in Borrowdale Andy Mitchell has recently made a cool ascent of Bleed in Hell E8 on Hell's Wall in Borrowdale. Meanwhile  up in Northumberland Ed Brown has added a direct finish to Hard Shoulder on Goats Crag. l'anglais parfait  at Font 7b/7b+ is a long way above a perfect landing! "I thought it was absolutely brilliant, very similar to Angle Parfait in Font but a bit higher." Ed Brown. On the North York Moors Luke Hunt has made the first free ascent of the old aid line at Eston Nab. "It goes at a pumpy (but safe with the pegs) E4 6b. It is a bit sandy at the bottom but the upper moves are really lovely and dynamic." Luke Hunt. Andrew Yeadon and friends have provided descriptions for the bouldering at Lamb Hill. Although the walls have been climbed on for many years they have never been properly recorded. If you have anything to add then get in touch. Finally Jonny Taylor got in touch to report that a crucial hold has broken off The Mauler at Causey Quarry. "I suspect this may have affected the tech grade a bit (I consider that move off the traverse to be the crux), and I reckon it will definitely have an impact on the grade if the scar where it snapped off becomes polished." Jonny Taylor. Cliff Lowther (MIA) was running a Roxcool course up at Bowden Doors and found one Boreal climbing shoe at the entrance into the field. Please contact him on 0776 5927633 to arrange for its return.  Reported 29th April 2009

Karin Magog crushing Climb of the Century F8b

CLIMB newcastle Spring Bouldering Comp was a terrific success. After 35 keenly contested problems the top climbers progressed to a final at 9pm. Men and Women came out of isolation one at a time to competed on three desperate problems in front of a loud and supportive crowd. Nigel Callender and Karin Magog were the ultimate victors of a sensational final. Well done to the setters and competitors alike for a superb evening. Full report and results can be found here now. Reported 25th April 2009

Nigel Callender	Karin Magog

Male Results:
1 Nigel Callender Senior 330 Top 2/8 Bonus 3/8
2 Rich Gill Senior 308 Top 1/5 Bonus 1/5
3 Mark Glennie Senior 320 Top 0/0 Bonus 1/3
4 Jamie Naden Junior 310 Top 0/0 Bonus 0/0
5 Dan Walton Senior 308 Top 0/0 Bonus 0/0
6 Daniel Cook Senior 307
7 Ben Dawson Senior 301
8 David Clarke Senior 298
9 Cas Ladha Senior 294
10 Dave Wilberforce Senior 294
11 James Hunter Senior 293
12 Steve Crowe Vet 291
13 Jamie Mantle Senior 285
14 Phil Johnston Senior 270
15 Jonathan Bradley Senior 265
16 Steve Lynch Senior 256
17 Oli Warlow Senior 250
18 Tim Staton Senior 244
19 Wayne Smith Senior 235
20 Darran Boak Senior 229
21 Matt Hickman Senior 216
22 Lee Patterson Senior 210
23 Josh Wood Senior 197
24 Johnathan ? Senior 190
25 S Simpson Senior 190
26 Jonathan Kelly Senior 189
27 Jason Shek Senior 186
28 Matt Poole Senior 186
29 Andy Harris Vet 181
30 Rob Land Senior 180
31 Sam Fisher Junior 175
32 Nathan Lowes Senior 174
33 Josh Wyatt Senior 172
34 Jack Oliver Senior 169
35 Adam McGregor Senior 167
36 Chris Powell Senior 157
37 Ben Chizary Senior 152
38 Ross Pagan Senior 144
39 David Rowe Vet 137
40 Andy Landsbury Senior 124
41 A Rorg (?) Vet 121
42 Kane Scorer Senior 115
43 Phillip Hallam Senior 101
44 James Allen Senior 97
45 Nigel Jefferson Senior 97
46 George O'Brien Junior 84
47 Fred Tholozan Senior 80
48 Tom Horn Senior 68

Female Results:
1 Karin Magog Senior 288 Top 3/4 Bonus 3/3
2 Beth Walton Junior 248 Top 3/5 Bonus 3/4
3 Helen Senior Senior 240 Top 1/2 Bonus 3/4
4 Kate Watson Junior 258 Top 1/3 Bonus 3/5
5 Rachel Hoyland Senior 228 Top 0/0 Bonus 3/3
6 Martina Mederiova Senior 220
7 Rose Stevenson Senior 111
8 Pascale Senior 100
9 Paulina Pilarska Senior 90
10 Sidonie Graham Senior 84
11 Rebecca Chizary Senior 74
12 Jayne Elliott Senior 61
13 Molly Flint Junior 60
14 Sarah Grasso Senior 47

Durham Climbing Centre now stock Five Ten Rock Shoes. New styles include 5.10 Anasazi VCS, 5.10 Galilleo, 5.10 Anasazi LV and just for kid's 5.10 Mini Mocc's. Also arriving shortly Boreal Joker, Boreal Mutant, Boreal Luna and Boreal Crux. More info here. Reported 24th April 2009

Durham Climbing Centre

WINTER CLIMBING + by Ian Parnell and Neil Gresham Published by Rockfax Reviewed by Karin Magog Third of the series, this is a very comprehensive book from Rockfax covering everything you need to know about winter climbing.  It’s written by Ian Parnell and Neil Gresham who have a vast amount of experience behind them.  Ian is perhaps better known for his mountaineering exploits, whereas Neil brings good knowledge of the more modern mixed climbs.  They are also both familiar with the infamous Scottish winter climbing and ice climbing. Like previous publications, such as sports climbing +, this is a well laid out, easy to read book.  It is well-illustrated with photographs, both action and technical, and sports a few interesting anecdotes.  The book is divided into ten chapters: - starting out, equipment, mountain safety, ice (style and ethics), ice (techniques), mixed (style and ethics), mixed (techniques), the mind, training and destinations.  As someone who dabbled in winter climbing a few years ago I found the section on equipment particularly fascinating.  I hadn’t realised that some axes were more suited to ice or mixed, that clipper leashes existed (mine are fixed) and that crampons could be changed from dual to mono point.  This section alone was invaluable in bringing me up to date and refreshing my knowledge.  Mountain Safety was also well written and seems to cover all the basics.  For more in depth knowledge there are several books out there dedicated to this subject alone.  The main chapters on the two different types of winter climbing are a mine of information and I’m sure even the most experienced winter climber could learn something here, being a bit of a winter climbing punter I was a bit overwhelmed to be honest.  I was more at home reading the two sections on the mind and training as much of it applies to climbing in general.  The final section covers that all important question ‘where to go?’  Scotland is the biggest UK destination and is covered in the most detail accordingly.  Other areas include Wales, the Lake District, France, Italy, Switzerland, Norway, USA, Canada and Quebec. All in all an impressive publication which should appeal to both those just starting out in winter climbing and the more experienced climber alike. More Reviews here.

Sport CLIMBING+	Trad CLIMBING+	Winter CLIMBING+

 

Western Grit by Chris Craggs and Alan James will be available at the end of April. PRE-ORDER NOW at a special offer price of £20.95 (RRP £21.95) with FREE delivery in the UK.

Western Grit

 

CLIMB newcastle Spring Bouldering Comp. Following the tremendous success of the Climb Newcastle Winter Bouldering Series the centre will be going bigger and better in what promises to be an unmissable event next Friday night, 24th April. As for the Winter Series there will be 35 problems to try at all levels from the very easy to the very hard with open, vet and junior categories. You can come down any time after 1pm to try the problems, with a hand-in time of 8:30pm. What will follow at 9pm promises to be a spectacular display of climbing skills as the top 4 male and female competitors battle it out in a final on mind-blowing problems, motivated by cash prizes and the cheers of the crowd...this is a great chance to see the region's finest climbers in action! To top it all off there will be the famous Climb Newcastle raffle with hundreds of pounds of climbing gear to be given away, plus special discounts in the shop for one day only! And all of this at no additional charge, simply your normal entry price! See you there? More details here.  Reported 5th April 2009

 

Queens Crag project completed after over 25 days of effort. After overwintering in Sheffield Dan Varian returned home and popped out to Queens Crag and crushed last years project. The line of Ark Royal(Font 8a+) is clearly shown as a project on page 262 of the current Northumberland Bouldering Guide. "After warming up I felt strong but a bit gelitinous, this was good, I thought, as usually I feel weak and gelitinous, sure enough after some home baked flapjack and a good lashing of green tea, the big guns were out. I practically locked the crux move from go one and go after go I crept further into the crux pocket. Ten minutes later I stuck it and my brain switched off, a deep project psyche switched on and I crushed the top section, including the double dyno to the top, which I only stuck twice on Sunday. So that was that, done!" Read the full account on the Beastmaker Blog. Reported 9th April 2009

 

More new Problems at Durham Climbing Centre. Over twenty new problems have been set ranging from V2 - V6 (Font 5+ to 7a). Get down and check them out. The Junior Climbing Wall has also been completely reset recently, with over 50 brand new problems! Regulars at the centre will appreciate a brand new set if problems just in time for half term. Why not take the family to Durham Climbing Centre over half term to one of our kid's clubs which are running every day during the Easter Break. The Easter Egg Hunt and Tea Party is sure to be a favourite! All sessions are led by qualified climbing instructors who will coach your child to reach their potential and have fun along the way. Parents can either stay and watch from the coffee lounge or drop off and pick up after the session. Contact Durham Climbing Centre for more details or to make a booking for your child 0191 3789555.  Reported 3rd April 2009

Family friendly facilities at Durham Climbing Centre

 

Off the Rocks Repeated. Jonny Clark marked his return to form following a serious shoulder injury, with a cool ascent of the rarely repeated Off the Rocks (E8 6c) at Back Bowden Doors. "Did Off the Rocks last week, no probs but it was getting a  bit warm in the sun and the top sloper felt rubbish, having felt crisp and reasonably path on the warm up…scary!" Jonnys ascent was captured on video and can be seen on youTube. Reported 2nd April 2009

 

BMC Youth Series Round 2 at The Newcastle Climbing Centre. Saturday's competition was a terrific success with some very impressive climbing by the local youngsters and the stunning stalactites seeing some serious action. Full results here: The Newcastle Climbing Centre. Meanwhile the bouldering wall has seen some of the problems changed and more new problems added. All the problems are now banded into various coloured circuits with Font Grades. Reported 30th March 2009

The largest bouldering centre in the UK... in Leeds. Opening to the public on Saturday 4th April The Depot is set in a huge old bus depot the facility is set to offer a world class bouldering centre in a unique environment. Hundreds of problems will make up circuits for all abilities with the grade ranging from font 3+ through to 7c+. About 190 problems have been set so far with more added all the time. Large cafe/seating area with a good view of the action. Well stocked shop with all the climbing essentials. Phase Two will include a route style area offering extended problems, allowing climbers to work on their route fitness without the need for rope and belayer. Also coming soon is combination of system boards, campus boards, Olympic rings, weights and 50 degree training board and a Weights/conditioning room with cardio facilities. The Depot is situated on Richardshaw Lane, Stanningley, just 200m from Stanningley by-pass. It is within easy striking distance from both Leeds and Bradford, the centre can be easily reached via both private and public transport. More information here: The Depot. Read more comments on UKC. Reported 28th March 2009

www.theclimbingdepot.com

 

The Newcastle Climbing Centre (St Marks Church) has finally opened its doors last weekend. The Newcastle Climbing Centre is the very latest indoor climbing centre development designed and constructed by Rockworks and will be a major indoor venue for the North East. Situated in the former church of St Marks the listed building provides a spectacular climbing environment with an internal height of 15 metres and over 1200 square metres of climbing walls for roped climbing and bouldering. Whatever your standard of climbing either novice or expert there are features and challenges to suit your ability and your ambition. The conversion of a listed building into a dedicated climbing environment has involved careful consideration and planning from an environmental and structural point of view. The climbing walls vary from 5.5m in height to 18m in length and there are features and challenges to suit everyone. The centrepiece of the lead walls is an 8m horizontal roof section offering a real challenge to the route setters! Full details can be found on their website. http://www.newcastleclimbingcentre.co.uk/.  The Newcastle Climbing Centre is to host the BMC Youth Climbing Series on Saturday 28th March 2009. Reported 24th March 2009

Newcastle Climbing Centre

Click on the images below for a better view!

Barnard Castle climbing wall has proved so popular it is being extended, just five months after opening. Almost 5000 people of all ages and abilities have already visited Teesdale District Council’s leisure centre in Barnard Castle. From mid March a further 111m of climbing surface is being added to the existing 295m, creating extra challenges for established climbers and increased wall space to cater for demand. The new section will incorporate more slabs, verticals and surfaces of varying angles, along with chockstone chimney and hand jamming cracks to challenge various styles of climbing technique. “The wall has exceeded expectations”, says Teesdale District Council’s Lead Member for Health, Councillor Keith Stansfield. “We knew it was something local people wanted, but the amount of interest it has generated has been immense. The quality of the equipment, coupled with the expertise and enthusiasm of our staff, has brought a new activity to a wide range of users, which is fantastic.” More information is  available from the leisure centre and from www.teesdaleleisure.org.uk  Reported 24th March 2009

 

The third and final round of the Allcord Bouldering Series at Sunderland Wall enjoyed an excellent turn out with a testing set of interesting problems to work through. The overall series winners were decided on the night with some truly impressive performances. A very closely fought junior female section was won by Carmel “the machine” Moran. In the junior male category Jamie Naden walked away with the series title. The senior male category was won convincingly by Paul Ogden with an on form Karin Magog coming out the overall series winner in the senior females. Steve Crowe put in a sterling performance to dominate the Veteran Male category (though he also very nearly won the Veteran Female category as well after a scorecard mix up!) Well done to everyone who entered, hope to see you all at the next one.”  Reported 24th March 2009

Allcord Bouldering Series Winners

Thanks to all the sponsors for a fantastic selection of prizes:

CAMP, Kayland, Tendon, Brands, AC, Lost Arrow