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Fell End OS Landranger Sheet: 92Map Reference: NZ026025 Aspect: South and West Altitude: 430m Approach: 30 minutes
Situation
and Character
Located
in a commanding position high above Arkengarthdale, this group of boulders and
small edges provides very good bouldering on, generally, sound Gritstone.
Although there are signs of quarrying most of the outcrop appears natural and is
less prone to lichen than the nearby Healaugh (Crag Willas). Landings vary from
excellent to awful, with the odd pool for added excitement. Views are superb,
especially to the west and the venue is ideally suited to summer evenings.
Climbers are requested to avoid visits during lambing time. No dogs.
History The first recorded climbs were developed by Alan Dougherty during the summer of 1996. The boulders were rediscovered by Aido Holt who added many of the sit start problems and returned with Dan Jones and Karl Robinson "to finish the job". The problems at the Square Time Group and beyond were climbed by Alan Dougherty in the company of Carol Dougherty on 3.8.07 or on 8.8.07., when Kevin Flint joined the party and added a problem of his own.
Access and Approaches A car park can be found just before Langthwaite on the main road from Reeth that runs up Arkengarthdale. Walk into Langthwaite village and cross over the bridge to follow the riverside track, downstream, on the true left bank of Arkle Beck. This lane (marked as a bridleway on OS maps) bears away from the beck, near a footbridge, to climb through woods to open fields. Continue along the track crossing the bridge over Slei Gill and so reach Storthwaite Hall. Just beyond the farm buildings, turn left (through a gate) and follow the bridleway steeply uphill across two fields. At the fell-gate follow zig-zags through spoil heaps to reach the moor top, at which point the boulders are conspicuous to the north. Provided you have not been mown-down by descending mountain-bikers, you should have reached the boulders in some thirty minutes and be well warmed-up. It is also reasonable to approach by bike from the small hamlet of Hurst. The Red Lion Inn is a fine free house that serves ales from Masham.
FELL END BOULDERS Aspect: south and west A group of large and small Gritstone boulders, just north of a popular bridleway offering problems across the grades.
The Problems The excellent south faces of the two largest boulders (first to be seen on the approach) have superb landings and very fine outlooks. Climbers should be aware that some of the problems top-out onto a surface of conglomeritic Gritstone that can contain loose pebbles.
Right-hand Boulder The first problems climb the short wall at the back of the boulder.
First Boulder The first problems are on the short back wall. 1. V2 5c 1a. Variation finish. V2 5c
2. Tertiary Wipe V3 6a
3. V2 5c 3a. Variation finish V3 6a
The 3m high south ("front") face offers good short problems above an excellent landing. Beware some of the flakes are friable! From left to right:
4. Pebbledash Arête V0 5a/5b Right-hand arête to awkward finish.
5. Exploding Flakes V1 5b Leaning wall to finish up short crack.
Steve Crowe climbing Exploding Flakes in 2003
6. Inappropriate Lycra V2 5b/c Wall left of central crack to "balancy" finish.
7. Over-used Superlatives V1 5b The rounded, left-hand arête directly.
8 Ephemeral Flakes Traverse V2 5b/c Left to right rising traverse across the leaning wall from Over-used Superlatives to finish up Pebbledash Arête.
9. V1 5b Climb the weird cleft.
10. Little Man V4 6a Climb the arête.
Little Man Aido Holt
Middle Boulder The 6m high south face.
11. Wall in the Hole V0 5a/b Ascend the left wall 2m left of the corner crack. High step (to reach a horizontal break) and then pocket at two-thirds height.
Dan Jones climbing The Wall in the Hole
12. Another Way Out 4c 2m left of the previous route: Use undercuts to reach the horizontal break and mantle to finish.
13. High Foot VD
14. Harry the Hamster VS 4b
15. The Craic VB 4c Despite the clichéd route name, the boulder contains a fine jamming crack near its right edge.
Steve Crowe climbing The Craic in 2003
16. Ripple Wall V2 5cThe fine steep wall to the left of The Craic increases in difficulty as height is gained.
17. Left Arête VB 4c Short arête to the left!
18. V4 6a Short arête leads to the shelf.
19. V1 5b The west face of the Middle Boulder.
20. V1 5b Also climb the west face of the Middle Boulder.
21. Charlie’s Other Chimney VB 4a A good traditional thrutch complete with chockstones by the north-western corner of the boulder.
22. Boggle Eye V1 5a The right side of the wall.
23. Pip Dick V1 5a The left side of the wall.
Back Boulder
24. V0 4b
25. V1 5b
26. 4b Slab VB 4b A self-explanatory problem on the south side. The SS is V1 5a.
27. High Stepper V2 5cA good short problem to the right of Crine with an awkward start. The SS is V3 6a
High Stepper Dan Jones
28. Crine VB 4cAscend just left of the left-hand corner on the north side.
29. Bollocks to Bahrain V5 6b SS to the arête.
Aido Holt climbing Bollocks to Bahrain in 2006
Far Left Boulder
30. The Slab V3 6a Climb the slab.
Karl Robinson on The Slab
31. V2 5c The left arête.
Aido Holt climbing The Left Arête
32. Slippery When Wet V2 5cThe central capped corner direct - failure resulting in wet feet. The SS is V4 6a.
Steve Crowe climbing Slippery When Wet in 2003
Karl Robinson on the SS to Slippery When Wet
33. Pinch and Pop V3 6a The right arête.
FELL END MOOR EDGE Aspect: west A discontinuous edge and collection of boulders offering quality of rock and bouldering similar to Fell End Boulders. The first problems are reached some 150m north of the Fell End Boulders, beyond the remains of a dry-stone wall. In many places there is deep heather between the outcrops but sheep tracks above the edge give easier going.
Wayne’s World The first Group of four boulders. The three existing problems (APD 1996) are rather lichenous at present – take care –the landings drop away!
34. Good Call V3 5c/6a Climbs the right side of the face with fingery pulls passing a useless pocket to a mantle finish.
35. Lower Case J’s V2 5b SS in middle of Wayne’s World Block then up via obvious flake.
36. Game On V1 5b Ascend left-hand arête to mantle finish.
37. Schwiing V2 5c Hand-traverse the obvious break.
Left-hand Boulder
38. Very Good Severe Takes the short slab to the right of the previous problem.
39. Excellent Very Difficult The delightful easy-angled slab.
Triangular Small Boulders To the front (west) of group - VD slab with possibility for harder variations
Lone Block 50m further north along the edge is a lone block:
40. Lone Problem V4 6b Climb the right edge of the block.
30m further north along the edge there are two blocks together:
Tenacious Levitation Group Five metres to the left of Tenacious Levitation is a block which forms the left edge of a chimney. Climb through horizontal break at 4c. (KF)
41. Tenacious Levitation V3 6a (APD 1996) a flake/crack feature reminiscent of the Griddle at Healaugh. The flake/crack feature is very thin but contains a mono-pocket, the key to the lower section. Better holds allow for composure to be re-gained before the awkward mantelshelf top-out.
42. V3 6a or Woosh of Raven 5b/c 2.5m left of Tenacious Levitation is an indistinct rib. Without using left edge, climb up, and slightly left to a pocket which is not as good as it looks.
43. Ravensara 5a Takes front of pillar to left of Woosh of Raven. Rather lichenous and with a scary landing.
44. Dogleg Crack VB 4b The dogleg crack.
45. V5 6b
46. V4 6a
First Boulder
47. Ling Escape VB 4c Arête curving to left.
FELL END MOOR EDGE – ARKENGARTHDALE Unless noted the following problems were climbed by Alan Dougherty in the company of Carol Dougherty on 3.8.07 or on 8.8.07., when Kevin Flint joined the party and added a problem of his own.
The Square Time Group NGR: NZ 02760310 This pair of boulders contain the Classic Layback Crack. Problems are described from right to left.
Right Hand Boulder
48. The Pebble was the Key V2 5c T8ke the right-hand nose; harder than it looks, especially since the pebble has gone!
49. Short Wall V1 5b Climb the short wall to the right; much easier for those with a long reach.
50. Right-hand Arête VB 4a Some 15m to the right is a group of smaller boulders, one of which ports a leaning corner at its left end.
51. Eleven Years After V3 6a * Thin face climbing up the front wall (or is it a very steep slab?) without using either edge. Starting using an initial hold on the left edge still gives a worthwhile problem at 5b.
Left Hand Boulder
52. Being and Time V5 6b ** A truly existential problem! Small holds and pebble pulling up the slightly impeding wall to the right of the blind cracks
53. Fresh Decade V3 6a * Takes wall below an incipient crack. It is difficult to start, especially if shorter, and remains sustained.
54. Classic Layback Crack VB 4c * (APD 1996) The quality of this obvious line is confirmed but technically it might be 5a!
55. New Millennium V2 5c Left of Classic Layback Crack is a shorter crack and bulging prow. Climb with no recourse to the Classic Layback Crack. It becomes increasingly tenuous with height.
Far North Boulder NGR: NZ 02810318 This appears to be the last useful boulder along the Edge, furthest from the Fell End Boulders. It is three-tiered, with distinct cross-bedding, and lies before reaching the remains of a sheep-fold and of a wall that crosses the line of the edge.
56. Right-hand Arête V1 5b Undercut.
57. Front Face V2 5c A powerful pull and high step to reach indistinct scoop / pocket.
58. Left-hand Arête V0 5a The final arête.
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