OS Landranger Sheet 75
Map reference: NU065336
Situation and
Character
Shown as Dancing Green Hill on the map, Back Bowden Doors lies approximately 3
miles west of Belford in an unusually sheltered position looking west across a
shallow valley. The rock is Fell Sandstone of the same good quality as that
found at Bowden Doors. The crag tends to dry very quickly.
Approaches and Access
From Belford take the B6349 Wooler Road. Continue for 3 miles, turn right at the
Hazelrigg sign and follow this for ½ mile to the brow of the hill and a large
steel gate on the right. Park here, being careful not to block the gate. Pass
through the gate and continue left to another gate. Follow the track and the
main crag soon comes into view. This track can be very damp and muddy and
approach footwear is recommended. There is no public right of way and the
relationship between the landowner and climbers has been strained. Visitors
should ensure they park cars well away from the gates and off the road. Please
also take care to avoid disturbances to the livestock.
Following an incident where a car was parked in the gateway at Back Bowden Doors climbing has now been restricted. No evening climbing is to be allowed. Please be sure to park sensibly in Northumberland and if the crag is busy go elsewhere. DO NOT BLOCK GATEWAYS AT ANY TIME. Thanks.
The Climbs
Although there is plenty of scope for traversing there are really only a few
outstanding problems at BBD. The climbs are described from left to right.
Northern Section
Left Hand End
Towards the extreme left hand end of the crag are some neglected problems. The
first prominent feature is a rightward trending crack this is the line of
Diagonal (Difficult).
1. Route One V2 5c
Start 4m left of Diagonal. Climb the bulge on scattered pockets to a rounded
finish.
2. Route Two V2 5c
Start at the base of Diagonal. Reach left to a good pocket and use this to gain
a flake. An awkward mantelshelf leads to a heathery finish.
3. First Traverse V1 5b
Traverse at a low level from rightward trending crack (Diagonal) for 6m to the
arête.
Quarry Wall
4. Tippler Traverse V5 6b
Traverse under the low roof to reach the easy slab.
5. Pedestal Problem V4 6b
Reach the crimp just above the roof and then pull left to the 0.5m scar. Finish
by standing on the crimp.
6. Cave Problem V4 6b
SS., at the back of the roof just right of the pedestal. Climb out along the
right edge and reach up to gain a leftward facing flake. Use this to gain the
sickle shaped crack.
Merlin Wall
It is possible to traverse from Twisting Crack to Straight Crack at V8
7. Traverse V6 6b
Traverse at a low level for 6m then move up to gain two horizontal seams which
lead to the large pocket on Morgan. Climb down Morgan.
8. County Ethics V10
Considered E7 7a by many, Cubby’s audacious line can also be climbed as a very
highball problem by the brave.
9. Merlin Traverse V2 5c
Climb up to the half height break and traverse this right and reverse Morgan.
10. Little Pixies V6/7 6b
A few metres to the right of Merlin there is a large flat rock, start here using
a crimp and side pull move up to gain the centre of the Merlin Traverse.
11. Morgan V3 6a
SS. Climb to the right hand end of the break.
12. Lady MacBeth V3 6a
Traverse from Morgan, move up to undercut the roof. Continue across the wall and
around the arête to finish in the corner beyond Hard Reign.
13. MacBeth low level Traverse V5 6a
Traverse the lip of the lower roof then up the flake to finish at the large
roof.
14. MacDuff V7 6c
From the back of the cave traverse the lip below the undercut slab.
15. Paradise Road V6 6b
Start as for MacDuff until it is possible to move under the lip at the small
flake. Finish below the slab.
16. Up Problem V4 6b
SS. Climb the wall 1m left of the good flake.
17. Up Problem V7 6c
From a small undercut at the back of the roof make a very hard move to gain the
lip. Finish more easily up the wall above.
18. Up Problem V6 6b/c
SS. From good holds beneath the roof gain the lip. Continue up the wall above on
incredibly small crimps!
19. Hard Reign Direct V7/8 6c
SS with both hands on boss at back of roof. Reach out to a finger slot under the
arête. Continue with hands on the arête only for 2m. Pull left to finish.
20. Hard Reign SS V2 5c
SS with both hands on boss at back of roof as for previous problem. Climb up
just right of the arête then traverse leftwards around the arête to finish as
the previous problem.
21. Underneath the Arches V2 5c
A worrying tip toe traverse crossing the slab above the lip to finish in the
corner at the holly.
22. Up Problem V6 6b
Start at the large pocket under the undercut slab. Hand traverse leftwards to
finish in the corner.
23. Up Problem V5 6b
Start at the large pocket. Move up and left to reach the roof.
24. Up Problem V4 6b
Start at the large pocket. Move up and right to reach the roof.
Enchanter Wall
This is the wall right Holly Tree Corner. The slab can be traversed from the
corner to the Bottle Crack at V0 5a
25. Low Level Traverse V2 5c
Traverse the break to the crack.
26. Lip Traverse V2 5c
Traverse the lip using pockets to reach the crack.
27. Bottle Arête V2 5c
Climb the left hand arête of Bottle Crack from sitting.
The Sorcerer’s Cave Area
Many variations have been climbed in this area, only a selection are described
here.
28. The Young Warlords V5 6a
Traverse from Bottle Crack to Straight Crack.
29. The Wizard V2 5b
Traverse right along the lip, the finish above is E3.
30. Intermediate Traverse V5 6b
Traverse rightwards on small holds that are beneath the large break until they
merge into the beak beneath The Sorcerer.
31. Pockets Traverse V10
The classic left to right traverse starts at the sloping dish. (It is easier
from right to left! V9).
32. Pockets Extension V8 6c
Start at Straight Crack and traverse beneath the break to finish at the prow at
the start of the Pockets Traverse.
33. Problem 31 V7 6b
Start at the large pocket. Climb across the roof.
34. Problem 32 V7 6c
Start in the corner. Climb across using a large sickle shaped layaway to gain a
small hold continue to the break.
35. Trivial Pursuits Circuit V4 6a
Climb up rightwards from the corner then reach left and continue leftwards to
reverse The Wizard. Traverse back right to the start.
A really obvious line,
often climbable while Trivial Pursuits circuit remains wet and green on the lip,
really worth doing.
35a. Movin' on Up V5 6b
SS. Start at sloping dish left of the prow. Throw with left hand to good incuts,
traverse left to cross the roof via the square cut hole, to finish at jug on
lip.
36. The Vole LH V2 5c
From the nose follow the thin diagonal roof crack to the lip. The SS from the
sloping dish is much harder perhaps V5
37. The Vole RH V2 5c
From the nose pull out directly across the roof via good crimps to the lip. The
SS from the beneath the prow is significantly harder V9.
38. Sorcerer’s Apprentice V2 5c
Cross the roof 2m right of the prow.
39. The Sorcerer V2 5c
A long reach and a powerful pull may gain the hanging scoop.
40. Problem 38 V5 6b
From the bottom break gain a good hold above the lip pop for the break above.
Step off.
41. The Spell V2 5c
Start left of the crack (Straight Crack). From good holds move up to a pot hole
via a flake and smaller pot hole. Traverse right along the horizontal break into
the crack or continue boldly to the top (E2).
Savage Slab
The next four problems climb below the impressive hanging slab.
42. Short Wall V3 6a
Climb the short wall on small crimps.
43. Pick Pocket V4 6b
Start with hands in two holes just left of the boulder. Much easier using the
flake.
44. Magic V3 6a
Beneath the left edge of the huge hanging slab are two small but positive holds.
Dyno to the break.
44a. Bubbles V10
Use the crimp/sidepull for your left hand, and a two finger dish at the same
height for the right hand. Dyno up and right.
45. Thundering Apoplexy V8 6c
The right arête. Take a running jump. Can also be climbed from a standing start
(harder)!
Boulder One – North Face
The first of the Back Bowden Boulders is situated below the impressive Tube
Wall.
46. Sharp Arête V3 6a
Climb the arête on its right hand side. V5 6b from SS.
47. The Bitch V12
The shallow scoop is started in the deep cave.
48. Undercut Arête V2 5c
SS. to undercut arête.
49. Little Arête V3 6a
SS., to little right hand arête.
Boulder One - West Face
50. Slab Problem V4 6b
SS. Climb the slab 1m left of the arête. Many variations.
51. Arête VB 4c
Climb the right arête.
52. South Wall V3 6a
SS. Climb the thin crack to the right of the arête.
Boulder Two – North Face
53. Problem V3 6a
SS. Reach the lip of the boulder, move right to good hold and then mantle.
54. Problem V2 5c
Traverse left from the right arête to the high point of the boulder and then
mantle.
55. Problem V4 6b
Start as for previous problem but mantle almost immediately.
56. Mantle Masterclass V5 6b
Not as easy as it looks.
Boulder Two – West Face
57. Slab VB 4c
Climb the slab left of the runnel.
58. The Runnel VB 4c
SS. Climb the runnel.
59. Slab Eliminate V3 6a
Climb the slab between the runnel and the flake, avoiding both.
60. Slab V0 5a
Climb the slab right of the runnel using the flake.
61. No Hands V6 6b
Traverse the slab from right to left around the arête doing as the name
suggests.
Boulder Three
A good west facing warm up wall many lines are possible only a few are described
here.
62. Shallow Groove VB 4c
The shallow groove left of the easy crack.
63. The Craic VB 4b
The easy crack
64. Smooth Wall One V1 5b
The wall just right of the easy crack and trending right to avoid the crack
higher up.
65. Smooth Wall Two V1 5b
The wall just right again is hard to start.
66. Flakes V0 5a
Follow the flakes trending left.
67. Eliminate V3 6a
The wall between the flakes and the arête.
68. The Arête V3 6a
SS. Climb the arête.
69. Upper Traverse V2 5c
A left to right traverse at mid height from the crack to the arête.
70. Low Traverse V3 6a
A left to right traverse. Drop down to the pocket and traverse at low level to
the arête.
71. Reverse Traverse V2 5c
A right to left traverse from the arête at low level then finish up Smooth Wall
Two.
Central Walls
Many lines have been soloed on these short friable walls but none are
recommended.
Southern Section
Boulder Four
This block is below the right hand end of the Central Walls.
72. Traverse V5 6b
From good jugs traverse past two slopers to finish on top.
73. Springer’s Mantle V9
Start sitting on jug as for the traverse, pull up to two crap slopers and mantle
with great difficulty for the top.
Boulder Five
This small block is below the huge roofs.
74. Overlooked V3 6a
SS. Climb the left edge of the block.
Outward Bound Section
The lower roofs can be crossed by a number of lines. The best problem is an
excellent traverse.
75. Roof Route Traverse V3 6a
A good circular traverse under the large roof which is often dry in the depths
of winter.
Hazelrigg Wall Area
76. Four Mats Wall V7 6c
The blank looking wall is climbed from the small pocket(right hand) to the large
pocket(left hand) via small crimps.
77. The Flake V0 5a
The right trending flake.
78. Smooth Wall V6 6b/c
2m right of the flake.
79. Hazelrigg Wall V1 5b
Climb the centre of the wall trending left to right.
80. Hazelrigg Wall Direct V2 5c
SS. Climb direct to the crimps on Hazelrigg Wall.
81. Pin Up V3 6a
The steep wall just to the right on chicken heads. Take care especially after
rain.
82. Risk and Hope V3 6a
The hanging corner.
83. Hazelrigg Wall Traverse V7 6b
Traverse the wall at a very low level between Risk and Hope and The Flake.
The Final Cave
Another set of excellent roof problems.
84. Cave Traverse V3 6a
From the left hand side of the cave, traverse the length of the cave staying as
low as possible.
85. Roof Problem One V6 6b
In the middle of the cave is a pedestal. From here climb across the roof on
rounded holds to finish beyond the lip.
86. Roof Problem Two V5 6b
Start at the back of the roof and climb out diagonally to finish beyond the lip.
87. Roof Problem Three V4 6b
Start at a large hole at the back of the roof. Reach left to pot hole. A mini
jug on the right leads to the a good hold around the lip. Power up the headwall.
88. Roof Problem Four V4 6a
Start at a large hole at the back of the roof. Crimp along the flake left of the
roof crack. Top out with care.
89. Roof Problem Five V3 6a
Start at a large hole at the back of the roof. Climb out to the right of the
roof crack. Top out.
Boulder Six
The small block just to the right of Hazelrigg Wall
90. Traverse V3 6a
From pinch traverse rightwards, down then back up to finish on the slab.
91. Low Traverse V6 6b
Traverse rightwards staying low for the full length of the boulder.
Boulder Seven
The small boulder adjacent to the gate.
92. Gate Traverse V6/7 6b/c
From the left hand end, traverse at a low level.
Boulder Eight
The smaller boulder behind boulder six.
93. Traverse V7 6c
A left to right traverse to finish on poor slopers.
New Routes:
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Johnny Brundle climbs Off the Rocks. Nick Dixon first led the Off the Rocks (E8) in 1995. The only know repeats before Johnny were by Dave Mcleod and Steve Crowe. A popular instructor at Sunderland Wall, Johnny recently made a ground up ascent of On the Rocks, perhaps the first in that style. Reported 28th February 2008 |
Johnny Brundle leading Off the Rocks (E8)
FIRST ASCENTS:
| A Short Sharp Shock | Bob Smith and John Earl | |||
| Back to Back | Steve Crowe, Andrew Earl | 17 | May | 1995 |
| Big Aerial Dynamite | Dave Pegg | 7 | August | 1991 |
| Black Magic | Bob Hutchinson | 1976 | ||
| Boulder Lands | Julian Lines | 31 | January | 1991 |
| Broken Glass | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 1978 | ||
| Bullet | Tommy Smith | |||
| Cauldron | Bob Smith, D Adams | |||
| Charlotte's Dream | Karl Telfer and Graham Telfer | 1987 | ||
| County Ethics | Dave Cuthbertson | 1990 | ||
| Duke of York | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 1977 | ||
| Dwarfs Nightmare | Tommy Smith and Bob Smith | 1979 | ||
| Flake right of Risk and Hope? | Dave Cuthbertson | |||
| Footless Fulmar | Ian Kyle | |||
| Glass Slipper | Nev Hannaby, Malcolm Rowe | 1976 | ||
| Hard Reign | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 1 | August | 1978 |
| I bet he drinks Carling Black Label | Stephen Roberts | 20 | June | 1994 |
| King Lear | Dave Pegg | 26 | June | 1991 |
| Leap of Faith | Malcolm Smith | 26 | June | 1994 |
| Lost Cause | Tommy Smith and Bob Smith | 1979 | ||
| Macbeth | Bob Smith and John Earl | 1 | September | 1987 |
| Magic Circle | Bob Smith | |||
| Magic Flute | Malcolm Rowe and Nev Hannaby | 1976 | ||
| Merlin | Bob Smith and John Earl | 14 | August | 1981 |
| Mordreth | Bob Smith and John Earl | 1987 | ||
| Morgan | Bob Smith and Tommy Smith | 1986 | ||
| Off the Rocks | Nick Dixon, Noel Craine, Chris Naylor and Crispin Waddy | 1995 | ||
| On the Rocks | Bob Smith | 28 | November | 1987 |
| On the Verge | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 18 | May | 1977 |
| Outward Bound | Paul Stewart and John Earl | 1 | August | 1979 |
| Peak Technique | Tony Coutts | 1987 | ||
| Pyewackit | John Earl, Bob Smith | |||
| Right of Reply | Bob Smith | 27 | June | 1985 |
| Risk and Hope | Bob Smith | |||
| Roof Route | Hugh Banner | 1973 | ||
| Shackletack | John Earl, Bob Smith and Ian Kyle | 1981 | ||
| Sorcerer’s Apprentice | Ken Wood | 1968 | ||
| Strange Brew | John Earl, Ian Kyle | |||
| The Arches | Rodney Wilson | 1965 | ||
| The Broomstick | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 1975 | ||
| The Charm | A Powell | |||
| The Enchanter | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 1 | March | 1975 |
| The Pixies | Dave Pegg | 31 | May | 1991 |
| The Sorcerer | Allan Austin, Dave Roberts | 1968 | ||
| The Spell | Jeff Lamb and Steve Blake | 1978 | ||
| The Tube | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 1978 | ||
| The Vole | Bob Hutchinson and John Earl | 1970's | ||
| The Wand | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson | 1978 | ||
| The Witch | Malcolm Rowe and Nev Hannaby | 1974 | ||
| The Wizard | Bob Smith | 17 | June | 1978 |
| Thundering Apoplexy | Nick Dixon | |||
| Transcendance | Malcolm Smith | 1994 | ||
| Uncouth Youth | Bob Smith, John Earl | 27 | June | 1985 |
| When the Wind Blows | Karl Telfer and Graham Telfer | 1987 | ||
GALLERY:
The main areas at Back Bowden Doors
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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Northumberland Bouldering update has more information for this crag
For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.