OS Landranger Sheet: 94
Map Reference:
NZ602063
Aspect:
North West
Altitude:
280m
Approach Time: 20 minutes
This is the long intermittent group of rocks on
the Northwest edge of Battersby Moor. It is easily reached from the brow of the
old road running up to Turkey Nab, though of course there are many other
approaches.
There are longstanding access difficulties at the crags on the Crinkle Park Estate. The owners, Bass Limited, have refused to allow climbers on the Estate despite lengthy negotiations by the British Mountaineering Council. The recent Countryside Access legislation should have improved the situation.
The owners are particularly concerned that cars
should not be taken on the moor and there should be no camping or fires. Any
climbers visiting the crags should take particular note of these concerns and
should ensure that no damage or disturbance is caused that could give the owners
reason for complaint.
The Climbs
All the recorded climbing is situated towards
the left-hand end of the crags almost directly behind Old Battersby.
1. Foxes Lair 10m D
This climb is a deep chimney tucked into the
left hand end corner of a buttress is climbed, followed by an easy traverse to
the left and up a ridge.
2. Battersby Groove 8m VS 4c
To the right of Foxes Lair is an obvious groove.
The route takes this throughout.
3. Fox Chase 8m HVS 5b
Climb the obvious groove on the opposite side of the buttress from Foxes Lair.