BARKER’S CRAGS
O.S. Sheet 93 520 003
Aspect South Facing
Altitude 310m
Approach time 5 minutes
Situation and Character
It is hard to believe that the first climbs at Barker’s Crags lay only a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of Scot Crags, but it’s true. Once the fence is crossed the peace and tranquillity is very noticeable, and it is not unusual to have the whole crag to oneself. The crags comprise a series of isolated buttresses of good quality, weathered sandstone, separated by a couple of minutes walking. If you are seeking high quality climbs of all standards or just somewhere to get away from the crowds, look no further.
History
The early history from the 1930s until 1956 follows the same theme as that for Scot Crags, with Arthur Evans and Richard Wharldall being the prime movers. Sadly no details of their exploits have been found, so it has not been possible to credit particular climbs to them. Throughout its early exploration the crag never enjoyed the popularity of Scot Crags and little of interest was added until 1965 when Stew Wilson and Geoff Harper climbed two existing but previously not led routes, Leaning Wall and The Chute respectively. Tony Marr discovered the superb Fallen Arch the following year, and later during the early 1970s, added a number of hard problems including Avalon and Right Wall. During his visits Tony had noted several obviously hard, unclimbed lines and it was not long before he returned with Alan Taylor for a closer look. The pair concentrated their efforts at Cleft Buttress, only to find the rival team of Paul Ingham and Tony McLean also probing the same lines. The first climb to fall was Finger Jam to Paul Ingham and Tony McLean, but the real prize and worth every one of its three stars, New Dimensions, fell to Alan Taylor a short time later. The two teams then combined their considerable talents to produce some of the best climbs at the crag including, Easter Edge, The Nose and Snatch Aręte. The latest climbs generated much interest and it wasn’t long before Dave Paul added the powerful Hangover and the extremely serious Grand Master Flash in 1984. Richard Davies made a significant contribution with many new and difficult routes during 1987, of which Empty Illusions and Impressionless Lust justify a special mention. At the beginning of the 1990s interest shifted to producing eliminates and very hard problems. The main exponents of this development were Francis (Monty) Montague, Martin Parker, and Liam Wilson who between them created several desperate routes including Monty’s Leap, Smiler and The Bends. Steve Crowe was also producing numerous excellent climbs at this time of which Atticism, Breeze and Air Time are particularly noteworthy. Finally, during work for this guide in 2002, Tony Marr accompanied by Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald and Peter Shawcross filled two obvious gaps with Over the Top and Whazzup. That age old question; “Are the rocks fully worked out?” Only time will tell!
Access and Approaches
Follow the approach described to Scot Crags. Do Not climb over the wire fence, but continue to a stile on the moor edge, just above rocks. The first climbs lay a few metres right of the fence and slightly lower than Scot Crags. Although is possible to walk along the bottom of the entire escarpment, at certain times of the year thick bracken is an impediment and it is much quicker and easier to walk between buttresses by following the moor path at the top of the crags.
Note: Please observe the access restrictions agreed between the landowner and the BMC, namely NO DOGS. Failure to comply could seriously jeopardise future access!
The Climbs
The climbs are described from left to right.
Overhanging Block
Easily identified by the overhang running across its front face. This boulder is located about 5m right of the fence and a little lower than the buttresses of Scot Crags. Three short problems are described but many variations are possible.
1. Slab 4m 4b
Follow the slab on the left side of the overhang.
1960s
2. Overhanging Crack 4m 4c
Tackle the obvious crack splitting the overhang.
1960s
3. Flake Route 3m 4c
Climb the bulge at its right end up a shallow groove.
1960s
50m further right and slightly lower is a fine buttress with a slabby aręte and an overhanging right wall.
Barker’s Buttress
4. Angel Eyes 5m HS 4b
Follow the blunt aręte in the centre of the left face.
1980s
4a. Stolen Moment
5m HS 4b
Start midway between the two arętes and climb directly to the top via a scoop.
FRA M Turner 7th May 2005
Keith Robinson (Robo) makes his return to climbing after a nine year break. Having spent a good day at Scots' Crags we were eventually defeated by an extensive shower. Robo wanted to take a look at Barker's Crags. When he spied this buttress and potential line; the sun came out. He took this as a sign that he should do the first ascent and call it Robo's Route. Half way up he became stuck, complaining of greasy holds, eventually he back-climbed. I stepped in and stole his route from under his nose, hence the name
5. Roof Route 6m HS 4b *
Climb the right edge of the main face on sculptured holds.
Pre 1956
6. Avalon 5m HVS 5b
About 2m right of Roof Route is an overhanging crack leading to an awkward exit.
Tony Marr 1975
Three more problems are to be found 10m further right, where a Rowan tree sprouts from the crag.
Rowan Buttress
7. Rowan Tree Wall 4m S
Climb the block wall to finish just left of the tree.
The corner on the right is D.
Pre 1956
8. Left Aręte 4m VS 4c
Climb the fine square aręte up its left side.
Paul Ingham 1979
9. Right Wall 4m HVS 5c
Ascend the “green streak” on small edges to a good finishing hold but an awkward exit. The left edge is out of bounds. An extended start to the right is possible, traversing left along the break then finish up the “green streak”.
Tony Marr 1979. Extended start by Steve Crowe 1990s.
Two short problems are to be found on an isolated block with an overhanging front face 8m right of Right Wall.
9a. Left Aręte 4m VS 4c
9b. Front Overhang 4m VS 4b
Ken Jackson 1968
A similar block located a further 6m to the right has one interesting problem.
9c. Barking Mad 4m VS 5a.
Climb the centre of the overhanging front face.
Tony Marr 1968
About 120m further right is Amphitheatre Buttress.
Amphitheatre Buttress
The first climb is located at the extreme left side of the buttress at the top of the slope.
10. Green Chimney 3m S
Climb the prominent wide crack with an overhanging finish.
Pre 1956
11. Problem Wall 4m VS 5c
Climb the centre of the blank looking wall on a tiny side pulls.
Richard Davies. 25th April 1987
12. Outer Wall 5m VS 4c
Starts 1m left of the thin crack, Pedestal Crack. Climb the shallow scoop and wall above keeping left of the aręte at the top.
Pre 1956
13. Pedestal Crack 5m S *
Climb the thin crack to the left of the prominent nose. From the ledge, continue up the wall above. Awkward.
Pre 1956
14. Walled In 5m VS 5b
Ascend the wall to the left of the prominent nose.
John Earl, Bob Hutchinson July 1976
Some of you may have already noticed that the next climb has the same name as another harder climb on this buttress. Unfortunately that’s how it is so we are stuck with it. All I can say is that if you do mix them up it will rapidly become clear which climb you are on!
15. The Nose 5m VD
Start just right of the nose then move up the edge.
Pre 1956
16. Pedestal Chimney 3m D
Misleadingly called a chimney. Climb the first wide crack to the right of the nose.
Pre 1956
17. Pedestal Wall 7m HVD
Start up Pedestal Chimney then move right onto the face and climb this to the top. The wall can also be climbed without use of either the crack or chimney at HVS 5b.
Both climbs Pre 1956
An eliminate has been squeezed in this gap! Comments would be welcomed.
17a. Hedgehog Aręte 6m VS 5a
Pull onto the aręte from the right and climb it delicately with a step right to finish.
Christopher Alexis Harrison, solo 9th August 2007
18. Flake Chimney 5m HD
The wide, vertical cleft.
Pre 1956
19. Flake Chimney and Wall 4m D
Starts up Flake Chimney then moves rightwards across the slab to finish up the first crack.
Pre 1956
20. Hard Sell 4m VS 4c
Climb the wall right of Flake Chimney, finishing right.
Bob Bennett, Mark Turner 31stSeptember 1995
The next climb starts 4m further right...
21. Long Chimney 5m HVD
Follow the corner to an awkward exit.
Pre 1956
22. Fairy Tale High 5m HVS 6b
Climbs the centre of the wall to the right of Long Chimney on tiny holds. Distinctly thin.
Alan Taylor 29th March 1978
23. Easter Edge 5m HVS 5c *
The bulging aręte just right of Fairy Tale High.
Tony Marr 12th April 1978.
24. Fairy Tale Low 5m HVS 6c
One for the connoisseur! Begin from a sitting position below the bulge just right of Easter Edge. Pull over the bulge then up the wall, starting from a pocket at chest height. Sounds easy doesn’t it!
1980s.
25. The Nose 5m HVS 5c *
The prominent blunt aręte to the right of Easter Edge provides a superb problem.
Paul Ingham, closely followed by Alan Taylor, Tony Marr, Tony McLean, all solo. April 1978.
26. Snuff 5m HVS 5b
This interesting problem lies up the narrow sidewall between The Nose and Alcove Cracks.
Paul Ingham 1980
The Amphitheatre has a wide vertical crack in its right-hand corner. This is the line of Alcove Chimney.
27. Alcove Cracks 7m S **
Climb the superb steep groove immediately to the left of Alcove Chimney.
Pre 1956
28. Alcove Chimney 7m MVS
Climb the wide corner-crack, which is bounded by a sculptured wall on its right. Awkward.
Pre 1956
29. Alan’s Wall 7m E1 5b
Takes the centre of the wall right of Alcove Chimney on fragile holds.
Alan Taylor 28th June 1977. Another “Taylor 4c”
30. Scoop Wall 7m E2 5c
Start just left of the curving scoop and follow the edge of the wall on small holds, moving right to finish.
Bob Hutchinson, John Earl July 1976.
31. Mister Whippy/Born in the USA 7m E2 5c
This route is a mix of earlier eliminates all based on climbing the impressive curving scoop. Follow the scoop, avoiding both arętes, to a small undercut flake. Make a long move up to a good pocket then finish direct through the small roof crack. Intimidating.
1990s. The original route, Captain Kirk Where Are You (E2 5c, Stu Ferguson 1987), climbed the scoop then escaped leftwards.
32. Snatch Aręte 7m E2 5c ***
This is the fine aręte forming the right edge of the curving scoop. Climb straight up, with a difficult move to a good hold. Further awkward moves may take you to the top. Another intimidating problem.
Tony Marr 13th April 1978. This attractive line was on several people’s “to do” list. Hence the name.
33. Empty Illusions 7m E2 5c
The narrow overhanging wall just to the right of Snatch Aręte.
Richard Davies 13th. May1987
34. Pioneer’s Chimney 5m M
The chimney to the right.
Pre 1956
34a. Ancient
Pioneer 5m VS 4b
Separating Pioneer’s Chimney and Ancient’s Ascent is a blunt flake. Climb the
edge of the flake via a thin crack, exit up the right side of the final nose.
Short but still worthwhile.
FRA Tony Marr 16th January 2005
35. Ancient’s Ascent 5m D *
Lies on the right-hand side of the flake forming the right wall of Pioneer’s Chimney. Keep to the left edge.
Pre 1956
36. Super Skunk 3m 6a
About 10m right of Amphitheatre Buttress is a small buttress with an overhanging left aręte. Climb the aręte via an obvious pocket. The sitting start is 6b.
1980s SS by Martin Parker, Liam Wilson both solo May 1995
About 100m further right beyond the trees is…
Road End Buttress
37. One for the Road 4m S
Climb the centre of the steep wall on the left-hand side of the buttress.
Pre 1956
38. Shandy 5m VD
The nose to the right of Flake Wall is climbed up its left edge with a move right at the top. Climbing straight over the middle of the overhang is HS.
Pre 1956
39. Chaser Chimney 4m HVD
The short chimney on the right side of the buttress.
Pre 1956
About 12m to the right are a jumble of large blocks forming..
Last But One Buttress
The first boulder has a prominent overhanging nose on its left side, this is….
40. The Frog 3m 5b
Start below the overhang then pull onto the slab and move right. Interesting.
Tony Marr 1977
41. Last But One Buttress 4m VD
Climb the enjoyable flake crack 3m right of the last route.
Pre 1956
The next climbs lay a further 12m right and a little higher up the slope.
Day’s End Buttress
42. Flake Wall 4m HS
Follow the flakes up the centre of the steep wall.
Pre 1956
43. Joshua’s Nose 4m HVD
Climb the blunt aręte between Flake Wall and the next route.
Pre 1956
44. Bilberry Cracks 5m S *
Climb the twin cracks up the corner groove.
Pre 1956
45. Left Again 5m HVS 5c *
A good problem tackling the undercut aręte to the right of the last climb.
Alan Taylor 1977
46. Dangerous Game 5m HVS 5b *
Start on the right side of the right-hand aręte. Pull up and move around to the left towards a crack, which leads to the top.
Richard Davies 20th May1987
47. Safety in Numbers 5m VS 5a
Start just right of Dangerous Game and climb the wall direct, keeping just right of the aręte.
1970
48. Breakout 4m VS 4b *
Takes the wall to the right of Dangerous Game via the diagonal fault.
1970
49. Belly Chimney 4m VD
Thrutch up the awkward wide alcove containing two cracks.
Pre 1956
50. Snippet 3m 5c
Attack the overhanging aręte right of Belly Chimney. Now try the sitting start.
1980s
51. Jericho Wall 3m VD
The wall to the right of Belly Chimney is climbed on jugs.
Pre 1956
52. Evening Wall 3m S
Climb the wall right of the last route.
Late 1980s
The outcrops start again about 70m beyond Day’s End Buttress across the sunken track. The first buttress described (The Eyrie), lies about 50m from the gate, and above and to the left of a prominent Oak tree. Several short buttresses en route provide numerous problems and a particularly testing low-level traverse.
The Eyrie
This tiny buttress is identified by a faint crack/groove in its front, overhanging face.
53. The Eyrie 3m 5c
Start from the pockets at the top of the crack and gain the sloping ledge. Tricky moves lead leftwards to the sloping ledge.
Steve Crowe 12th November 1995.
About 10m further right is a large block with an overhanging left wall, and a steep front face with a wide chimney at its right end. This is…
Bird’s Nest Buttresses
Beginning with five short problems.
54. Fragile Wall 3m 5b
The left wall just right of the small cave on delicate holds.
Steve Crowe 1995
55. Smiler 3m 5b
From a sitting start in the centre of the wall gain the good holds (start of The Bends) then move left and up to finish.
Martin Parker July 1995
56. The Bends 3m 6a
A short flight from good holds to the top. Originally done as a double dyno in one move!
Liam Wilson 28th June 1995
57. Wild 4m HVS 5b
The line just left of the aręte, with a good hold to finish.
Steve Crowe 12th November 1995.
58. Flake Aręte 4m HVS 5c
From a sitting start, the aręte is climbed on improving holds to a precarious mantelshelf finish.
Steve Crowe and Karin Magog1995
59. Short and Sweet 5m HVS 5c
Climb the centre of the steep wall to a sloping ledge and then possibly, the top.
Tony Marr May1980.
60. Windy 4m VD
Climb the edge just left of the chimney.
Tony Marr 24th January 1971.
61. Air Time-The Traverse 12m 6b
The Buttress can be traversed at high level and back on a lower level.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 1990s.
62. Breeze 3m HS 4b
Climb the face of the boulder forming the right edge of the chimney.
Steve Crowe 12th November 1995.
About 25m further right, capped by two trees is...
Arch and Attic Buttress
The first two climbs are short problems starting just left of Arch Gully beneath the overhanging wall.
63. Architrave 2m 5c
Descend under the overhanging wall to the foot of a short overhanging crack. From a sitting start, jam the crack to finish on the ledge on the left (about 1m above the ground!).
Steve Crowe 12th November 1995.
64. Arch Rival 4m 6a
Start just right of the last route, also beneath the overhanging wall, which is climbed from a sitting start using the diagonal crack. Pull around the bulging wall just left of the gully, and as the angle eases a hidden pocket to the right of the aręte helps gain the top.
Steve Crowe 11th February 2002
Al Manson on Arch Rival V3 6a
65. Arch Gully 7m M *
Scramble up the narrow gully under the massive capstones.
Pre 1956.
66. Over the Top 5m VS 4c *
Climb up and over the centre of the massive capstones to finish right. Unusual but enjoyable climbing.
Steve Findlay 1990s
67. Fallen Arch 5m HVS 5a **
To the right of the “Arch” is a superb overhanging crack, which contains everything that is good about jamming!
Tony Marr 26th April 1966
Fallen Arch
68. Attic Gully 5m D
The awkward gully to the right of Fallen Arch.
Pre 1956.
69. Atticism 4m HVS 5c
The wall right of Attic Gully, and just left of the aręte. A good pocket in the aręte helps gain the sloping ledge then pull onto the slab.
Steve Crowe 12th November 1995.
70. Foot Loose 5m HVS 6a
Start around the aręte to the right of Atticism in the middle of the leaning wall. Pull up and move left to escape up a short finger-crack.
Tony Marr June 1980.
71. Direct Start 4m HVS 5c
Climb directly to the final finger-crack.
Tony Marr June 1980.
72. Attikismos Traverse 10m 5c
An interesting low-level traverse starting from Attic Gully to the right edge and then back again.
Steve Crowe 1990s.
12m to the right is a large block split by a horizontal break with a short vertical cleft above. This is...
Hogmanay Buttress
73. Auld Lang Syne 3m VS 5a
Climb the wall left of the obvious wide crack of Hogmanay. A hand jam then small pockets lead to the top.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 4th October 1995 both solo.
Auld Lang Syne
74. Hogmanay 3m HS
Hug the block to gain the ledge, then move left and finish up the vertical cleft.
Pre 1956.
75. First Footing 3m M
Start just right of the aręte. Climb up via two obvious pockets.
Pre 1956.
Across the easy gully is a steep, dark stained wall with several popular problems. This is…
Black Wall
76. Black Corner - Left Side 3m VD *
Climb the left-hand aręte on surprisingly large jugs.
Pre 1956.
77. Black Corner - Right Side 3m 4b *
Climb the wall just right of the aręte on surprisingly good pockets.
Pre 1956.
78. Black Wall 4m 5b
The wall 2m right of the aręte.
Richard Davies 25th April 1987.
79. Mandela’s Day 4m 5c *
Gain the shallow corner above a small overlap, 3m right of Black Corner. Small pockets lead left or right, the choice is yours.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog, both solo 4th October 1995.
80. Timeless Divide 3m 4c *
Takes the wall 1m left of the right aręte.
Richard Davies 25th April 1987.
81. Black Wall Traverse 5m 6a **
A low level traverse of Black Wall. The L-R direction being the most enjoyable
Richard Davies 1987.
Jill Blackburn on the low level traverse of Black Wall (V3 6a).
The boulder below Black Wall has three short problems.
82. Billy No Mates 3m 5c
The overhanging aręte. Start on the flake.
R. Sanders 9th April 1997.
83. Harry Palmer 3m 5c
The centre of the boulder is climbed via a side pull.
R. Sanders 9th April 1997.
84. Big Nose 3m 5b
Simply jump for the nose and pull over.
R. Sanders 9th April 1997.
A few metres further right is the largest and steepest buttress at Barker’s Crags.
The Cleft Buttress
Comprises two impressive overhanging faces separated by the obvious cleft of Chockstone Chimney.
During the late 1950s early 60s, the buttress was used for peg climbing practice as the overhanging walls were considered unclimbable by any other means. How wrong that was! The buttress is now home to some of the finest and hardest free climbs in the region.
The first route starts high up the slope on the left side of the buttress.
85. Imperial Measurements 5m S
Climb the thin crack just right of the shallow yellow scoop to a good finishing jug over the top.
The crack on the left is D.
1980s.
86. Leaning Wall 8m VS 5a *
Start just left of the aręte. Climb the left wall of the buttress following a diagonal line of flakes.
Pre 1956 top roped only. First Led: Stew Wilson 1965.
87. The Chute 7m VS 4c *
Start at the left aręte. Climb the shallow groove then move slightly rightwards into the obvious scoop.
Pre 1956 top roped only. First Led: Geoff Harper 1965.
88. Finger Jam 7m E2 6a *
Climb the thin curving crack moving left at the top to finish up The Chute.
Direct Finish 6m E3 6a
Climb the thin crack then finish over the blunt nose.
Finger Jam: Paul Ingham, Tony McLean Spring 1977.
Direct Finish: Paul Ingham 1986.
Other variations have been worked out...
Al Manson making short work of Finger Jam
89. Elimination 7m E2 6b
Start just left of the crack of Finger Jam. Climb the shallow scoop to join Finger Jam at the good hold.
Paul Ingham 1986.
90. Monty’s Leap 7m E3 6b
Climb the wall between Finger Jam and New Dimensions for about 4m until it is possible to jump for the good hold on New Dimensions up which the climb finishes.
Francis (Monty) Montague 1996
91. New Dimensions 6m E3 6a ***
Start 1m right of Finger Jam below a severely overhanging crack. Ascend the crack using a bizarre sequence of moves to an awkward finish. A superb, sustained problem.
Alan Taylor 28th June 1977. The climb is comparable with classic test pieces on Yorkshire gritstone, and its ascent brought a new level of technical difficulty to the North York Moors. Some doubted that this route and another of Alan’s ascents, The Shelf at Scot Crags, had been climbed. However both Alan and Tony Marr made faultless ascents of The Shelf in the presence of the doubters and then re-grouped under the crack of New Dimensions where the atmosphere was electric. Alan seemed oblivious to the tension as he effortlessly performed the unique sequence of moves, posing near the top to glance down at a sea of open mouths and glassy eyes, then two quick moves and it was over!
New Dimensions E3 6a
92. Open up and Gurgle 6m E4 6c
A difficult eliminate up the wall between New Dimensions and Hangover via the obvious pocket.
Martin Parker 12th May 1995
93. Hangover 6m E3 6a
Climb the overhanging arete just right of New Dimensions, which also forms the left side of Chockstone Chimney.
Dave Paul 1984.
94. Circuit Training 18m E2 6a
Climb New Dimensions to the good jug. Swing left, crossing Finger Jam and into The Chute; descend this and traverse right to New Dimensions. Repeat!
Paul Ingham 1979. A typical training problem devised by Paul, who regularly made a dozen continuous circuits.
94. Shorter’s Circuit 18m E2 6a
A highly advanced version of Circuit Training on the New Dimensions wall. Start on the left-hand side. Traverse to the right arete with feet above the bottom break. Traverse back left to Finger Jam (feet above break again). Up Finger Jam to big break. Reverse Circuit Training in to New Dimensions. Down New Dimension until hanging off the bottom break. Back up New Dimensions and across Circuit Training. Quite strenuous!
“Monty thought I was mad when I showed him it.” Chris Shorter
95. Chockstone Chimney 7m HD
Climb the chimney using both walls.
Pre 1956.
96. Sculptured Wall 8m E1 5a
Good climbing up the right wall of the chimney. Bridging not allowed. Poorly protected.
Pre 1956 top roped only. First Led: Stew Wilson 1965.
97. Sculptured Aręte 11m E3 5c *
Start as for Sculptured Wall then move right and climb the aręte until 2m below the top. Traverse right around the aręte then move up to an awkward finish. Serious.
Paul Ingham (solo). 1982.
Right of the aręte is a very impressive overhanging wall with two fine climbs...
98. Heartbeat 10m E3 5c
Climb the right side of Sculptured Aręte, moving left at the top break to finish up the groove in the aręte. Serious.
Richard Davies (solo) 20th May1987.
99. Grand Master Flash 11m E5 6b ***
Takes the centre of the impressive concave wall on fragile holds. The crux is at 6m and the landing is poor.
Dave Paul 1984. An outstanding achievement, climbed solo after top rope inspection.
100. Night Entry 10m VD
This climbs the overhanging corner at the right side of the impressive concave wall, followed by the aręte of the wall above.
Pre 1956.
101. Rum Doodle 5m VS 4c
Takes the obvious layback crack to the right of Night Entry. Distinctly awkward.
Pre 1956.
A further 7m right of Cleft Buttress is...
M&M’s Buttress
102. Minstrel Wall
4m HS 4b
The wall 1m left of the left aręte.
103. A Sack a Day 5m VS 4c
Climb the left-hand aręte direct. (5b with sitting start).
Richard Davies (solo) 13th May 1987.
104. Slap Happy 5m VS 5b
Takes the front face via a rounded ledge and a thin crack.
Martin Parker, Francis (Monty) Montague 1991
105. M&M’s Aręte 4m VS 4c
The right-hand aręte.
Martin Parker, Francis (Monty) Montague 1991
70m further right are three small buttresses with a prominent Holly tree between the second and third.
Cinderella and The Ugly Sisters
The first climb starts a short way up the slope to the left of the nose.
106. Beware the Thunder 5m HVS 5c
Climb the wall at the left end of the overhang. Then trend right to finish.
An easier escape 5a can be made by moving left up a short flake crack.
Richard Davies, solo. 25th April 1987.
107. Living in Sin 6m E1 6a
Climb the centre of the overhang and the wall to the left of the nose.
Richard Davies, solo. 25th April 1987.
108. Impressionless Lust 7m E2 6a *
Start between Living in Sin and the nose of the buttress. Pull over the overhang and cross the smooth wall to finish up the nose.
Richard Davies, solo. 25th April 1987.
109. Cinderella 7m VD
Takes the nose of the left-hand and highest buttress. Start on the right and climb up until it is possible to step left around the nose then straight to the top.
Pre 1956.
110. The Slipper 7m HVD
Scramble up the gully and climb the crack in the left wall.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 31st March 2002.
Immediately left of the Holly tree is a hanging aręte. This is…
111. Ugly Sister One 7m VS 4b
Climb the aręte on its left side. Looks easy doesn’t it.
Pre 1956.
111a. Pantomime 6m VD
Climb the corner recently vacated by the holly tree.
Frank Fitzgerald, Mike Tooke and Tony Marr. 29th January 2006
112. Ugly Sister Two 7m Severe
Start at the toe of the right-hand buttress. Climb the diagonal line of flakes leftwards to an awkward exit.
Pre 1956.