OS Landranger Sheet 75
Map Reference: NT938403
Situation and
Character
A pleasant sandstone crag facing south and reaching a height of 15 metres.
Although the rock in places must be treated with care, this crag is a beginner's
paradise; there are numerous routes in the easier grades on slabs, walls and
cracks and some harder lines are also available. Only the longer climbs are
described here.
Approaches and
Access
The crag lies roughly mid way between Wooler and Berwick, close to the
village of Etal. About 1 mile north of Etal on the B6354, a farm lane leads off
to the east. Parking is available on the side of the lane before the main
farmhouse is reached. The top of the crag lies beyond the farm and can be
reached in 5 minutes.
It is essential that all visiting climbers ask permission at the farm before
proceeding to the crag. It is highly unlikely that there will be a refusal but
the approach routes may differ from time to time depending on the operational
requirements of the farm. Note that this applies to organised parties as much as
individuals and just because you have been given permission once does not mean
you can go on without asking in the future. As with every crag, take every piece
of litter away when you leave. Please do not jeopardise future access to this
crag by ignoring these requests.
The Climbing
Berryhill is one of the few south facing crags in Northumberland. The classic Marcher Lord VS 5a is worth the trip on its own. The best bouldering is on the large boulder below the crag.
The first and easiest problems are on the first rocks
encountered on the left above the approach path and the slabby boulder adjacent
to the path. The main interest lies on the large boulder below the approach
path.
Main Boulder
Knocking on Heaven’s Door V3 6a
The classic problem up the aręte from the lowest point of the boulder.
Dust to Dust V3 6a
The popular traverse.
The final half dozen routes in the definitive guide are quite short and can be
soloed.
Boulder Direct V0 5a
Climb the slab on its left side.
Boulder Right Hand V0 5a
The centre of the slab, trending right to cross the overhang.
The boulder can be traversed from the left using the horizontal break and
perhaps finish up…
Lunger's Leap V1 5b
Start below the overhanging triangle and climb more or less direct to the top.
The rock must be treat with care.
Above and behind the boulder is a steep, slabby wall that provides some short
but enjoyable routes. Variations are possible but the best are described below.
The open chimney and crack to the left of the slab is very easy.
Route Two V1 5b
The steep wall on small edges.
Route Three V0 5a
Further right, a thin crack and wall provide a tricky route.
5 metres to the right is another easy crack.
Some First Ascents:
| Death or Glory | Bob Smith | 1982 | ||
| Do or Die | Bob Smith | 1982 | ||
| Footsloggers Trip | Bob Smith, John Earl | |||
| Marcher Lord | Ken MacDonald | 1970 | ||
| Potters Way | John Earl, Bob Smith |
Gallery:
Berryhill Crag from the field to the south.
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Ed Williams leading Marcher Lord VS 5a |
Bob Bennett soloing Western Arete VS 4c |
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Alec Burns demonstrating Ashes to Ashes B3 5c |
Bob Smith on Dust to Dust B3+ 5c |
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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Northumberland Bouldering update has more information for this crag
For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.