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Karin Magog leading Quantum Leap E2 at Birk Gill Photo: Steve Crowe
OS Landranger Sheet: 99 Map Reference: SE136817 Aspect: South Altitude: 250m Approach Time: 25 minutes
Situation and Character The crag is situated on the north side of the ravine through which flows Birk Gill. It is a pleasant place to climb in winter when the vegetation is down and the trees free of leaves, as it is sheltered from the wind and catches any available sun. In summer it is infested with insects and a place to be avoided.
History The crag was discovered in the early spring of 1994 and from then onwards was visited regularly by the Teesside team of Frank Fitzgerald, Tony Marr, Peter Shawcross and Mike Tooke who worked out all the routes recorded here.
Access and Approaches Approach as for Slipstones but when the track reaches the open moorland follow a faint path westward through the heather. When the path runs out continue in the same line for a few minutes with the ravine to the left, and the rocks soon appear.
The crag lies within an SSI and securing access proved difficult. English Nature have no objections to climbing provided the approach described below is used and the gamekeeper, Tom Spencely 01677 460218, is informed before your visit. Dogs are not allowed. Please do nothing that might compromise this situation.
CROW Act update: "This crag is now on
open access land - you therefore now have a statutory right to access, and no
longer need to seek permission to climb there." Guy at the BMC re Birk Gill. The Climbs The climbs are described from right to left.
1. Bygones 5m VD Climb the short crack up the right side of the buttress. Tony Marr (solo) 13th March 1994
2. Cat Walk 9m HS 4b Start right of the arête. Gain the right-hand crack and follow it Ieftwards to exit up a short chimney. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 13th March 1994
3. Quantum Leap 8m E2 5b * Climb the arête direct on its left side, starting at the lowest point. A thin finish! Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 18th September 1994
4. Class Action 10m E2 5b * The big line of the crag climbing the corner throughout. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 18th September 1994
5. Class Action Left Hand 10m E1 5b * Start just right of Birk Gill Crack and cross the wall diagonally to join and climb the upper section of Class Action from mid-height. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 18th September 1994
6. Birk Gill Crack 8m HS 4b * The corner crack. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 13th March 1994
7. Heartbeat 8m S 4b The awkward chimney in the left wall of the corner. Frank Fitzgerald, Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 9th October 1994
8. Downbeat 5m VD The centre of the stepped wall round the blunt arête to the left. Frank Fitzgerald, Mike Tooke 13th March 1994
9. Cutting Edge 5m HVS 5c The steep arête across the gully Tony Marr (solo) 9th October 1994
10. Façade 7m HVS 5a The next arête is gained from the right and finished direct. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 9th October 1994
11. Black Groove 7m HS 4b * Climb directly into the groove. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald, Peter Shawcross 20th March 1994
12. Narrow Margin 8m HVS 5b Start from the lowest point below the arête, move up and right to gain a slanting ledge and step up and left to finish up the arête. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 20th March 1994
13. Little Wonder 7m VS 4c Climb the wall by a series of flakes until a pull right gains a shelf. Finish direct. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter Shawcross 20th March 1994
14. Sorrento 6m S 4b ** Climb the centre of the wall to an awkward exit. Frank Fitzgerald, Peter Shawcross 20th March 1994
15. Fast Track 6m HS 4b Direct up the wall left of the tree to finish up a square recess. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 5th February 1995
16. Party Piece 6m HS 4b The centre of the wall to an awkward exit. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 18th September 1994
17. Tough Enough 6m HVS 5b Follow the thin crack near the left edge of the wall throughout. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 18th September 1994
The next climbs are on the buttress with the undercut wall, and the slab at the end of the line of boulders running down the side of the ravine below the eastern end of the crag.
18. Jolly Jeffery 6m HVS 5a * Start at the left front corner of the buttress. Climb the tricky arête on its left side. Tony Marr, Alan Taylor, Frank Fitzgerald, Mike Tooke. 9th January 2002
19. Mary Archer 8m VD The line between the overhang on the left and the slab on the right is followed direct. Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 13th March 1994
20. Corvus 9m HS 4b ** Follow Mary Archer and traverse left above the overhang to finish on the far corner. Frank Fitzgerald, Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 5th February 1995
21. Frank’s Slab 9m VD ** Start at the right -hand corner, gain the slab and follow the easiest line. Frank Fitzgerald, Peter Shawcross 20th March 1994
22. Frank’s Slab – Variation Start VS 5a Start from the right side of the arête. Climb the steep shallow groove in the arête for 4m, pull onto the slab and finish up the edge. Tony Marr, Alan Taylor 9th January 2002
Several boulder problems have been climbed on the rocks above and to the right of Frank’s Slab. The best of these are:-
Cave Crack Severe. The awkward crack leaving the left side of the cave. Tony’s Slab 4b Climb the centre of the boilerplate slab. Frank’s Arête 4b From the lowest point of the slab, climb the right edge.
Full details in the North East England Guide
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