"The crag deserves to remain thoroughly unpopular; it is loose, devoid of bolts and dries out only occasionally. There are hard routes worth top-roping, and the only route worth doing is the one back to the pub" David Jones, Rockclimbing in Britain 1988
‘"He obviously did not visit the local pub, I wonder if he visited the crag?" Tony Burnell, YMC limestone guide 1992
"I would say he did not, as Blue Scar for me offers some of Yorkshire’s finest traditional routes on some immaculate rock." Karin Magog 2006
Access Update:
Blue Scar is usually Bird Banned 15th March until 15th of July. Check the BMC Regional Access Database for the latest access situation.
Rebolted routes:
Bottlenose
The Sheep Spider
The Pig Sheep
Arthur Sowden Concept, now 7b+
One Previous Owner
Blue Scar New Routes:
The
Spinless Righthand 22m E5
6a From the first peg on Spineless step back down and reach right to a good edge. Climb direct past flakes to reach lower
off on small tree.
Steve
Crowe, Karin Magog
22 July 2000
More
Bolts from the Blue 30m
E5 **
6b. 30m Start up the overhung corner just right of The Piddler to a bolt. Difficult moves past a second bolts lead directly to
the obvious left-facing groove of Bolt from the Blue. Follow this to the roof and break (peg runner). Gain the hanging crack
on the
left with difficulty and continue past a thread to a tree. Abseil descent.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog
Something
Borrowed 35m E6
6c 30m Start as for Barracuda/Death Wish and continue along the traverse past the peg on Stairway to Heaven. Drop down
slightly to a line of crimps which lead to the peg on The Great White. Continue traversing the break to the prominent flake.
Thread and peg. Finish as for Blue Water White Death to the twin bolt
lower off.
Steve
Crowe 3 September 2000
Something
Blue 68m E6/7
1. 4a 13m Climb
the flake of The Piddler to a ledge and belay.
2. 5c 25m Traverse right as for Bolt from the Blue to the groove but step down and hand traverse right past the tree on
Hammerhead and the peg of Priaprism to
belay at the small tree on Central Wall.
3. 6b 30m Traverse the break right to the hammered nut and ˝ friend on Death Wish. Make an awkward move to cross
Stairway to Heaven past the peg. Difficult moves right and slightly downwards should lead to the peg on The Great White.
The dilemma is whether to clip it and suffer the rope drag or climb boldly on up The Great White to the next thread. Follow
The Great White to the upper break and move back left for two metres then
finish as for Stairway to Heaven to the chain. Lower off.
Steve
Crowe, Karin Magog (Alt leads) 29th August 2000
THE SHEEP BUTTRESS
The Sheep Spider F7b *
Now fully bolted and is a better route for it.
Dolly 10m
F7a
A well bolted route but with the feel of a classic "Gordale Adventure Route". Start as for Sheep Spider traverse R passing three bolts then climb direct through the bulge trending left to the same lower
off as for Sheep Spider.
Mark
Radkte August 2002
The Pig Sheep F7b *
Now
takes a more logical line than the original version which was contrived at the
top, it is a better route for it. Follow
the line of the new stainless through bolts (bomber peg protects the start, It
may be better to start further left but
this will need another
bolt)
THE RIGHT WING
Scarface 16m F6c
Four
bolts up the centre of the wall right of Hissing Sid to a single bolt
lower off.
Nigel Baker Dave Musgrove 8th September 1999
Gallery:
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Blue Sister E3 5c | Some Blue for You E1 5a Karin Magog | Central Wall E5 6a
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
Terry Holmes repeating Dolly F7a |
Dolly? |
|
Gaz Parry contemplating Blue Water White Death E6 6c |