Climbonline.co.uk

OS sheet: 75

Map Reference:  NU070325

Aspect: West facing

Altitude: 170m

Approach: 2 minutes

The crag lies just north of the B6349 Belford Wooler road. Coming from the south, turn left from the AI at the B1342 Belford Wooler sign. Follow this into Belford then turn left at the B6349 Wooler road. Coming from the north turn right at the B1234 Detchant Middletown sign and follow this into Belford then turn right at the B6349. Continue for 5 kilometres keeping left when the road forks at 4 kilometres. Continue for 200 metres until just over the brow of the hill. The south end of the crag is visible about 100 metres north of the road. DO NOT PARK IN FRONT OF THE GATE. STRICTLY NO DOGS PLEASE.

History

Very little is known about the early years of Bowden Doors, although a few notes were made in the Oxford and Cambridge Journals in 1935 and Peter Biven did some seven routes in 1955. Unfortunately most of the routes ascended from then to the late sixties went undocumented and any attempt to catalogue them would prove a difficult venture. In 1967 Eric Rayson climbed Canada Crack and Alan Austin with Dave Roberts picked off Woolman's Wall and Pitcher Wall. The following year saw the first known on sight lead of Lorraine by Malcolm Rowe. Austin with Ken Wood climbed Scoops 1 and 2. In 1969 Malcolm Rowe collected a couple of gems with Main Wall and First Leaning Groove. 1971 saw the first aided ascent of the Overhanging Crack involving a rest on a large chockstone near the top. In the autumn of 1972 Hutchinson, who had only been climbing some twelve months, created the crag's first extreme with his excellent route The Trial. Not only was this a test piece on Bowden but a significant step forward in the county. He soon joined forces with John Earl freeing the aforementioned Overhanging Crack and picking up Stretcher Wall.

The period from 1976 to 1978 saw the only significant first ascent by a raider. Jeff Lamb slipped across the border to pick the ripe plum; The Manta, while Hutchinson and Earl collected The Sting. Another local activist Steve Blake produced some fine routes, in particular Transformer and Don't Let Go. He also turned out what seemed at the time insignificant problems but in later years became stepping stones for the up and coming Hard Man. Climbs like The Harvest Bug, Big Splash and Y Front have become routes in their own right. By far his best achievement however, was the Poseidon Adventure, which was the first route to break through the long wave formation at the left end of the crag. This was soon challenged by Hutchinson and Earl who produced an even harder and bolder route up the white flakes on the left to give The Wave. In 1978 the same team went on to collect a string of brilliant routes such as The Gauleiter, Goose Step and Boomer.

Two new faces, Bob and Tommy Smith, started to climb new routes and in 1978 Tommy provided The Judge, and Jury either side of The Trial, and slipped his way up The Flying Fish. Meanwhile Bob climbed The Rajah, the first 'unrecognised' 6b on the crag, and the brutal Barbarian. In 1979 other local climbers also got in on the scene, namely Bill Wayman and Paul Stewart who competed over Cruel Dude, a solo duel which Wayman only just won; revenge was close at hand for Stewart with Brutally Handsome. Bob Smith started to hot things up with the strenuous Rising Damp and High Tide, together with Crater Maker and Street Runner.

The following year was quiet for Bowden seeing only a few routes by Bob Smith; His Eminence, Kaiser Bill and Dog Eat Dog, an oft tried problem. 1981 and 1982 were years of short, hard problems; Pete Kirton leapt for joy on Vienna and Bob Smith climbed Toffs, Rough Passage and Liberty. Karl and Graham Telfer found Outer Limits whilst Bob Smith and Earl picked up its Direct Finish and Child's Play. 1983 and 1984 saw only two significant routes, The Bends and Poverty,  both on sight solos by Bob Smith, whilst Ian Kyle clenched his cheeks and pushed his way to the front of the queue on The Belford Pie Shop. Bowden had a sleepy few years until 1988 when Mark Liptrot returned and like one of the railway children shunted his way up and down the very bold Death Knell before soloing it. The end of the 1988 summer saw Bob Smith and Earl making Rough Passage a hard and independent route.

As the last guide was going to print, Richard Davies did Imagery and shortly after publication in 1990, a fit Ian Cummings produced the stamina fest Rip the Lip. This was followed in 1991 by Narcosis and Inner Space courtesy of Hugh Harris, Joe Webb and Dan Patterson. It was not until 1999 that further significant development took place with the ascent of Hangover Wall by James Ibbertson and Heaven Can Wait by the 6 foot 5 inch Andy Cowley  (which may be harder for the vertically challenged). The new millennium saw Mark Savage filling gaps with Please Stop Me in 2000, A Grave Mask in 2001 and See You in Disneyland in 2002.

Who knows what the future will bring, hopefully no more chipping or heavy wire brushing, only more brilliant routes with which this crag abounds.

Situation and Character

This splendid open crag dries extremely quickly although like all sandstone, it remains weak after being wet. However, its proximity to the road and the low rainfall makes it a most valuable climbing ground. The majority of climbs are steep and often technically difficult. The rock is Fell Sandstone, with a hard outer crust which is easily damaged and top roping and abseiling is to be discouraged. Also, the leader should at all times make sure, when belaying, that the rope to the second is not rubbing across the top of the crag, resulting in irreparable grooves being created. We only have the rock once so please look after it. Too much faith should not be placed in wires and friends behind small flakes and in shallow breaks.

Approaches and Access

The crag lies just north of the B6349 Belford Wooler road. Coming from the south, turn left from the AI at the B1342 Belford Wooler sign. Follow this into Belford then turn left at the B6349 Wooler road. Coming from the north turn right at the B1234 Detchant Middletown sign and follow this into Belford then turn right at the B6349. Continue for 5 kilometres keeping left when the road forks at 4 kilometres. Continue for 200 metres until just over the brow of the hill. The south end of the crag is visible about 100 metres north of the road. DO NOT PARK IN FRONT OF THE GATE.

The part of the crag north of the wall is on Open Country.  Climbing on this part of the crag will be as of right when the CRoW access right comes into force.  The area of Open Country extends to the Back Bowden road to the east of the crag so it will also be possible to take access to the crag from this road as of right.

The part of the crag south of the wall is not on open country, nor is the traditional access route from the Belford to Wooler road to the south of the crag.  Please respect the wishes of the farmer when using this part of the crag and taking access from the road

The Climbs

The climbs are described from right to left.

1.         Banister Crack 10m VD

2.         Introductory Staircase 12m M *

The next eight routes take the first major wall of the crag Main Wall.

3.         Handrail 10m VS 4c

4.         Handrail Eliminate 10m HVS 5c

5.         Main Wall Eliminate 15m HVS 5b *

6.         Main Wall 15m HVS 5b ***

7.         Hissing Sid 14m E1 5c

8.         The Viper 16m E1 6a *

6a alternatives have been done either side of the thin crack of The Viper.

9.         Stretcher Wall 14m E1 5c *

10.      Deception Crack 12m VD

11.      Second Staircase 12m D

12.      Y Front 6m HVS 6a

13.      Jock Strap 6m E2 6b

14.      Black and Tan 14m S 4b **

Alternative Finish HVS 5a

15.      Black and Tan Direct 10m E2 6a

16.      The Scoop 14m VS 4b ***

17.      The Gauleiter 12m E3 6a **

18.      Please Stop Me Before I Kill Myself 12m E3 6b

19.      Grovel Groove 12m MS *

Alternative Finish HVS 5a

20.      Kaiser Bill 12m E4 6b *

21.      Goose Step 10m E3 6a  **

22.      A Grave Mask 10m E4 6a

23.      Flake Crack 7m S 4b

24.      Crater Maker 10m E4 6a

25.      Maginot Line 18m E3 6a

26.      The Corner 7m HVS 5a

27.      Girdle Traverse of Main Wall 55m VS 4c

28.      Pinkie Peeler 7m VS 5a

29.      Guard's Exit 7m VD *

30.      Brown Ale Wall 7m E1 5b

31.      Exhibition Crack 7m HS 4c *

32.      Red Nose 8m VS 4c

33.      Russet Groove 10m VD ***

34.      The Overhanging Crack 10m E2 5c ***

35.      Hangover Wall 12m E5 6c

36.      Death Knell 10m E6 6c *

37.      Heaven Can Wait10m E6 6b

38.      Family Pressure 7m E1 5c

39.      Canada Dry 10m VS 5a

40.      Dog Eat Dog 4m E2 6a

41.      Quatra Twinkley 10m E3 6a

42.      Canada Crack 10m HVS 5a ***

43.      Klondyke Wall 10m E2 5c **

44.      First Century 11m E4 6a *

45.      Long Crack 11m HVS 5a **

46.      Jackdaw Crack 10m HVS 5b

47.      Transformer 10m E2 6a *

48.      Long John 10m S 4c

49.      The Big Splash 10m E2 5c

50.      Street Runner 10m E4 5c *

51.      First Leaning Groove 10m HVS 5a **

52.      Second Leaning Groove 8m VS 5a *

53.      Blocked Chimney Corner 7m HS 4c

54.      Broken Crack 7m E2 5c

55.      Nose Chimney 7m D

56.      Brutally Handsome 7m E2 5c

57.      Nutcracker 8m HVS 5b

58.      Scorpion 8m VS 4c **

59.      Crab Wall 8m S

60.      The Lobster 10m E3 5c

61.      Woolman's Wall 10m VS 5a

62.      Listen to the Rain 10m E4 5c

63.      The Harvest Bug 8m E1 6a

64.      Creepy Crawly 7m E1 6a

65.      Triple Cracks 7m HS 4c *

66.      Wall Crack 7m MVS 4c

67.      Castle Wall 7m MS 4b

68.      Flake Chimney 7m D

69.      Flake Wall 7m D

70.      Sue 8m S 4c *

71.      Sue Direct 8m HVS 5b

72.      Bella 8m E2 5c

73.      Castle Crack 8m VD ***

74.      The Belford Pie Shop 8m E3 6a

75.      The Keep 8m E1 5b

76.      Pitcher Wall Direct 10m E2 6a

77.      Pitcher Wall 10m HVS 5a *

78.      Pitchfork 8m E2 5c

79.      Crescent Wall 7m MS 4b

80.      Pride Before a Fall 8m VS 5a

81.      Runt 10m VS 5a

82.      Little Red Rooster 10m E1 5c

83.      Lorraine 11m VS 5a ***

84.      Don't Let Go 10m E2 5c *

Direct Start 10m E2 6c

85.      Slab Crack 10m E1 5b *

86.      Imagery 12m E4 6b

87.      The Rajah 11 m E6 6b ***

88.      The Cheetah 11 m E2 5c

89.      Tiger's Wall 11m VS 5a ***

90.      Leo 10m E2 5b *

91.      Red Crack 10m HS 4c

92.      Black Crack 10m VD

93.      Banana Groove 10m HVS 5a

94.      Abanana 10m E1 5c *

95.      Banana Wall 10m MVS 4c **

96.      The Runnel 10m HVS 5a *

97.      Yellow Peril 10m E2 5c

98.      Wall End Direct 8m HS 4c

99.      Wall End 7m VD

100.  Retreat 8m E1 5b

101.  Brothers in Arms E5 6b

102.  No Surrender 10m E4 6a

103.  Boomer 10m E4 5c *

104.  Cruel Dude 10m E4 5c

105.  Hanging Crack 10m E1 5b *

106.  Blind Wall 10m MS

107.  Temptation 10m E3 6c *

108.  Crunchie 10m E2 5c

109.  Billy Liar 8m E2 6a

110.  Arrow Crack 7m VD

111.  Robber's Rib 7m VS 5b

112.  Bull's Lug 8m E2 6a

113.  Giant's Ear 10m VS 5a

114.  See you In Disneyland 10m E3 6c

115.  Barbarian 10m E5 6b ***

116.  Green Crack 10m E1 5a

117.  Rip the Lip 24m E6 6a **

118.  The Bends 12m E5 6c *

119.  Narcosis 11m E6 6c

120.  Poseidon Adventure 12m E4 6a ***

121.  Rough Passage 15m E6 6b ***

122.  The Wave 14m E5 6a **

123.  High Tide 15m E5 6a **

124.   Inner Space 11m E5 6b **

125.  Rising Damp 15m E4 6b **

126.  The Manta 10m E3 6a ***

127.  Honeycomb Wall E4 7a

128.  The Sting 10m E3 6a **

129.  Flying Fish 8m E1 6a

130.  The Skate 8m E1 5c

131.  The Shiner 9m HVS 5b

132.  Bloody Nose 9m HS 5a *

133.  Bloody Crack 9m VS 5a *

134.  The Jury 10m E3 5c

135.  The Trial 10m E3 5c ***

136.  The Judge 10m E3 6a *

137.  Scoop One 8m E1 5b *

138.  His Eminence 8m E4 6a **

139.  Poverty 9m E5 6c *

140.  Toffs 7m E3 6b

Alternative Start 6b

141.  Scoop Two 7m E1 5c *

142.  Liberty 20m E3 6a

143.  Scoop Three 8m E1 5b

144.  Finale Wall 7m E1 5c

145.  Another Heap of it 7m HVS 5c

146.  Evening Wall 7m MS 4b

147.  Entrebaillement 6m E1 6a

148.  Parisienne Walkway E1 6m 6b

149.  Child's Play 6m E1 6a

150.  Outer Limits 10m E2 5c *

Direct Finish E2 5c

New Problems:

Andy Earl has climbed two new problems at Bowden Doors. An eliminate up the wall just to the left of Barbarian at V9 and the left arête of the Cave at V11.  Reported 9th October 2004

Andy Earl on his new V11 Sprung at Bowden Doors

Andy Earl has recently added two Font 8a problems at Bowden Doors. Both involve thin fingery crimping on minuet edges. Antihydral (V11/font 8a) climbs the wall to the right of Don't Let Go and Growlers (V11/font 8a) is a direct start to The Bends. Be sure to have good skin before attempting these lines!   Reported 21st May 2004
 

Antihydral and Growlers both V11/font 8a

Alfie Thornton Font 7c

Takes the excellent wall left of 'The Crack'. A hard start on slopers leads to a long move to reach the diagonal crack on the right and a scary top out. Font 7c. FA Chris Graham 29/08/04

Have a look at http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/bowden9.htm, you can see most of the holds on there.
"The problem starts as a jump start on a diagonal sloper, to another sloper with finger stack, up right for another sloper and up to a line of slopey pockets, from here make a long reach right to the crackline just left of 'The Crack'." Chris Graham 29^th August 2004

The Crack Sit Start Font 8a

Andrew Earl repeating The Crack SS first climbed by Malcolm Smith

Staggered Sit Start Font 7c+

FA Malcolm Smith 2003

Honeycomb Wall Font 7c+

FA Malcolm Smith 2003

Underdog Traverse Font 8a+

From Barbarian to finish up RH Roof problem.

FA Malcolm Smith 2003

Working Class Sit Start Font 8a+

FA Malcolm Smith 2003

New Routes:

22  Hot off the Press             E4 6a  
Start up Goose Step but continue direct above the starting block via a hard rock over move.
Richard  Davies, solo        16.10.1988

FIRST ASCENTS:

GALLERY:

Bowden Doors, right hand end

Adam Reah demonstrating Vienna static and thinking it to be Font 7c/7c+

Andrew Earl mid flight on the classic Vienna (Font 7c) dyno

 Photo (c) Andrew Birtwistle

For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.

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