OS Landranger Sheet 81
Map Reference: NU115079
Situated
near Corby’s crag, first climbed on by Steve Blake, was rediscovered and
thoroughly developed by Will Walker and John Microburst. The
quarry is located 200m east of the B6341 Rothbury to Alnwick road, just beyond
the first forestry plantation when approaching from the A697 crossroads. There
is a small gate in the fence 50m beyond the plantation from which a path leads
up into the quarry. Climbing in the quarry may easily be combined with visits to
Corby’s Crag, which is 2km distant towards Alnwick.
The quarry faces west and provides sheltered climbing on quick drying sandstone. The quality of the rock is generally good. The layout of the quarry, described left to right from the point of entry, is as follows: A bay with short walls, a rock staircase which provides a useful means of descent; a square cut aręte with a slab above and the 20m high main wall.
1. Sienna 12m HS 4b
Start
below a brown scoop at the left end of the slab. Pull up a short wall to a ledge
and move into a corner below the scoop. Ascend on the right side of the scoop to
finish up the slab.
Will
Walker, John McRoberts
18.8.94
2.
Transition
14m
S 4b
The
corner left of the aręte (with a rowan in it) then the crack in the slab above.
John McRoberts, Will Walker 20.7.94
3.
Recidivist
14m
HVS 5b
Climb
the wall 2m right of the corner then the easy slab just right of the crack
finishing at some protruding blocks.
Will Walker, John McRoberts 30.8 94
4.
Flight Training
14m E1 6a
The
difficult aręte to a terrace then the centre of the slab moving
left at the overlap to finish via a thin crack.
Will Walker, John McRoberts 18 .8.94
5.
One Small Step
16m
VS 4c
*
The
corner right of the aręte and flake crack above which together forms the left
boundary of the main wall.
Will Walker, John McRoberts 20.7.94
6.
Mental Block
18m
E1
5b
Start
at a flake 3m right of One Small Step. Move up to a recess and ledges. From the
right hand side of the recess climb the wall trending left to a block in the
horizontal break. Move up on to the break (jamming over the top of the block
will help it stay in) and finish up the wall just right of One Small Step.
Will Walker, John McRoberts 25.8.94
7.
The Jupiter Collision
20m
HVS 5b
***
Takes
the obvious central crack line. Start just left of a recess at the base of the
wall. Move up and right above the recess then direct to the top via the thin
crack.
Will Walker, John McRoberts 20.7.94
8.
Arrested Development
18m
HVS 5a
Start
just right of the recess and climb direct to a short thin crack. Gain the ledge
above the crack,
step left, move up to the obvious pod, pull through this to a ledge on the right
and finish up the short walls above.
Will Walker, John McRoberts 29.9.94
9.
Blagdon Panther
16m
HVS 5b
***
Start
just left of a triangular boulder leaning against the base of the wall. Climb
the wall following the easiest line to gain the thin crack in the top few feet
of the wall and the crux (a long reach)
John McRoberts, Will Walker 30.8.94
10.
Nanny Felton
12m
S
The
crack line at the right end of the wall. Start just left of a grassy platform.
Pull up to ledges, climb the cracks and finish leftwards up a short slab.
John McRoberts, Will Walker 18.8.94
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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