OS Landranger Sheet: 94
Map Reference: SE873915
Aspect: South West
Altitude: 200m
Approach Time: 10 minutes
Situation and Character
The Bridestones are North Yorkshires humble answer to Brimham, not as extensive but still a great place for family bouldering picnics. They are situated in an area of open moorland to the north of Dalby Forest. The rocks are separated into two areas. The Lower Pinnacles are encountered first and then further north the High Bridestones. The rock can be sandy in places and some of the holds can be friable, especially after damp weather, so requiring a delicate approach. The better climbing is on the Upper Buttresses. The National Trust owns the rocks and surrounding areas. They actively encourage visitors and permit climbing to take place provided that no ropes or leading gear is used. This is to prevent excessive erosion of these unique rock formations. Because of this (and the diminutive height of the rocks) soloing is the norm. The traverses here are harder and more sustained than the classic Scugdale traverse from Plumbline to Tippling Wall, although the rock quality is more variable. Note the rock on these buttresses is steep, sometimes very steep, so after a while 5b feels more like 6b especially when moving over the lip of a buttress. Strangely it feels higher too, don’t worry though the ground is soft and not too far away. The rocks do not accumulate much dirt but they are often sandy, so nylon toothbrushes are essential. However wire brushing is discouraged on these soft rocks, as the crust is so delicate.
History
The history of these stones is not clear because the attitude to small outcrops was not to “claim” ascents as this was just bouldering. These unique rocks were “discovered” by Stuart Bradley and Ian “Squawk” Dunn recorded the principle development during 1981/82. Big Dog’s Cock and Feeding the Hedgehog were climbed by Francis (Monty) Montague, Martin Parker and Martin Skidmore during the winter of 1989/90. Neil Thompson recorded many problems during the work for the 1995 edition of this guide although it is probable that some will have been climbed previously. Griff Griffith took a wrong turn out of Sheffield late in 1995 and found himself three hard additions to the Pepperpot family, Master, Mrs and Mr Pepperpot.
Access and Approaches
The Bridestones are best reached by using the Dalby Forest Drive, a Toll Road, from Thorntondale. When entering Thornton le Dale from Pickering, take the first left turn (signposted to Dalby Forest Drive and to Whitby). After about a mile take a right turn on to a minor road that leads via a toll road to Low Danby. Continue along the scenic Danby Forest Drive passing many parking and picnic areas to the car park at Low Staindale. If you get as far as the hairpin bend by Staindale Lake, turn back, you have just passed it! From the car park at Low Staindale Forestry Commission and National Trust signs lead you to the rocks in about ten minutes. Follow the path towards the wooded hillside, ignore the gated path and continue a short way then take the left fork as the path rises up through the woods towards the open moorland above.
The Pinnacles and Buttresses are described from south to north, i.e. as you approach them. This chapter is based on original information that was provided by Neil Thompson.
The Climbs
The Lower Pinnacles
The first four pinnacles and The Pepperpot all lie to the left (west) of the main path.
First Pinnacle
1. V0 5a
From a low start in cave climb either straight up or out rightwards.
2. D
Descent
3. Big Round Jugs VB 4a
Start at the arête moving left to pocket.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
4. Passion Play Severe
The crack.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
5. V2 5c
The overhang just right of the crack.
6. Accidents will Happen V1 5b
The overhang in the centre on surprisingly good holds.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
7. Guano Wall V1 5b
Start at the pocket at head height. Move up on the prominent flakes.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
8. V1 5b
The pockets awkwardly using side pulls.
9. V2 5c
The bulge passing the bracken.
10. V2 5c
The steep bulge finishing right of the bracken.
11. V1 5b
Pockets reaching right at the top.
Second Pinnacle
12. V1 5b
Crack and roof to the left of the arête.
13. V1 5b
The roof via two holds
14. V1 5b
Just left again climb the roof via two holds
15. V0 5a
The rib before scoop/cave then hand jam.
16. V1 5b
The scoop/cave to exit right.
17. V2 6a
Gain side pulls then lunge!
18. V1 5b
The crack.
19. V2 5c
The steep wall left of the crack.
20. V0 5a
The steep wall just right of easy ground.
Third Pinnacle
21. VB 4c
The prow.
22. V0 5a
Large layaways on the North Face lead to an awkward finish.
23. V0 5a
The wall finishing left of the small capping roof.
24. VB 4c
The centre of the west face trending right at the top.
25. V0 5a
A traverse of the boulder. Keep off the ledge on the slab side.
Fourth Pinnacle
26. VD
The short crack, step left and mantle to finish. Good.
27. V0 5a
The triangular roof via hole. Interesting.
28. V0 5a
Roof via undercut.
29. VB 4c
Shallow roof to ledge.
30. V0 5a
The scoop moving right to finish.
31. VB 4c
The arête.
32. VB 4c
The short dubious flake to mantle.
The Pepperpot
The Pepperpot
33. V2 5c
The bulge just right of the crack.
34. The Descent V0 5a
The steep crack is awkward to start, but it is thankfully easier to descend!
35. V2 5c
Just right of the prow.
36. Master Pepperpot V4 6b
The overhang via a pocket.
Griff Griffith 1995
37. V1 5b
An exercise in jug pulling left of the prow.
38. Central Goove V3 6a
The groove on the path side provides a good problem.
39. Mr Pepperpot V5 6b/c
A sitting start beneath the steepest part.
Griff Griffith 1995
40. Mrs Pepperpot V4 6a/b
Tackle the roof then traverse the lip right to finish up the previous problem.
Griff Griffith 1995
Continue along the path, past an uninteresting boulder and over a small rise to the first of two small buttresses on the right.
The Black Buttresses
Black Buttress
Initial Buttress
41. V4 6b
Right to left traverse starting at the pinch.
42. V3 6a
Sitting start in the hole, straight up.
43. V2 5c
Low start on pocket, straight up.
44. V4 6b
Sitting start in cave (no jug or thread).
Final Buttress
45. V0 5a
Start at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb the bulge to gain a hollow flake, moving slightly right jams in the “eyes” lead to a mantle.
46. V1 5b
A right to left traverse.
High Bridestones
The High Bridestones can be seen to the North West of the Black Buttresses across a small valley and are about four minuets walk away. They are characterised by an isolated buttress on the left of the path and an overhanging escarpment further north, on the right. Note that nettles can be a problem beneath the High Buttresses in summer!
The Isolated Pinnacle
This prominent pinnacle with an impressive west face is situated amongst a cluster of smaller insignificant boulders on the crest of the rise after crossing the small valley.
47. Wrong time of the Month V0 5a
The overhanging north wall on the left.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
48. Vin Rouge V0 5a
The overhanging north wall on the right.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
49. Honeycomb S
Start on a small ledge just off the ground. Climb the right side of the arête, trending left.
50. Scoop Wall MS
Start on the small ledge as for Honeycomb and climb the scoop in the west face.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
51. Red Flash VB 4c
Start 3 metres right of Scoop Wall. Climb up the left side of the bulge on pockets.
52. Strawberry Fields VB 4c
Start two metres right of Red Flash. Climb the right side of the next bulge on surprisingly good holds all the way. Excellent!
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
53. Big Dogs Cock V2 5c
Two metres right is another scoop. Climb into the scoop and over the roof. Scary.
Francis (Monty) Montague, Martin Parker and Martin Skidmore during the winter of 1989/90
54. Scarlet Pimpernel V1 5b
From the scoop of Big Dogs, move out right to the arête.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
55. Red Light V0 5a
Climb the arête to the right of Scarlet Pimpernel, starting on the right.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
56. Little Red Robin V1 5b
A left to right traverse starting at Red Flash and finishing up Red Light.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
The Upper Buttresses
The escarpment, just to the north, is divided into four buttresses. These are described from left to right, starting with the most northern buttress and working south.
Buttress One
57. The New Number One VB 4c
The short wall on the North face at the left of the buttress. Climb the steep bulges.
58. Hoedown VB 4b
The short wall at the left of the buttress. Climb the steep bulges on good holds. Good.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
59. Bat out of Hell V1 5b
Climb the bulge just right of Hoedown.
60. Dingly Dell V1 5b
Start as for Bat... and trend right to just left of the central roof. Slightly easier than Bat out of Hell.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
61. Going for the One V2 5c
Bold climbing up the centre of the wall, on fragile holds, and take the roof direct.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 led
62. Right Side of the Law V1 5b
The wall and smaller roof just left of Bird Shit Groove.
63. Birdshit Groove S
The obvious groove on the right of the buttress, better that the name and the appearance!
64. Going Up North V1 5b
A pumpy right to left traverse to finish up Hoedown.
Low Level Traverse, Buttress One
Buttress Two
65. Northern Frights V1 5b
The bulge to an awkward rounded finish.
66. Aurora VB 4c
Pull on good pockets through the bulge on the left of the buttress, just left of Northern Lights.
67. Northern Lights V0 5a
The rounded flakes lead through the bulge.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
68. Borealis V0 5a
Start at the yellow sandy patch, just left of the small boulder in the ground: climb direct.
69. Winter Wonderland V1 5b
Climb the wall in front of the boulder in the ground.
70. Toll Road V3 6a
Start three metres right of the small boulder, from a good hold reach slopers then the obvious break, continue up juggy pockets to the hole near the lip, move right and up to a sapling.
71. Lucky Man V2 5c
Climb up to undercut through the roof, and then continue up the fragile flutings.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
72. Tainted Love V1 5b
Directly up to a hanging flake. A good sustained problem.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
73. Sambo Pati V0 5a
Up the first bubbly weakness, interesting route finding!
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
74. Walk a Thin Line VB 4c
The right-hand bubbly weakness.
75. Griff's Traverse V3 6a/b
A good pumpy left to right traverse.
Griff Griffith 1995
76. Super low level Traverse V1 5b
An easier left to right traverse very low in places.
Buttress Three
77. Changes VB 4b
The bubbly wall left of the wide crack.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
78. Squeeze and Squirm S
The interesting wide crack.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
79. Juggler V0 5a
The wall immediately right and just left of a recess
80. Audi Quatro V1 5b
Start two metres right of the wide crack of Squeeze and Squirm. Climb the centre of the recess and the roof above.
81. Turbo Charged V2 5c
Five metres right of wide crack (Squeeze & Squirm). From the back of the shallow cave climb the wall up to the undercut and over the roof.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
82. Theft V1 5b
Climb into a shallow recess, exit right around the overhang.
83. Larcony V1 5b
A direct start to Theft.
84. For Someone Very Special D
The obvious rightward rising traverse.
85. Standard Traverse V3 6a/b
Start at the right end of the buttress by the initials JO and climb easily left to a good flat hold, then hard moves past an obvious knob to another flat hold, continue up following dinner plates into a recess, round a bulge into Squeeze and Squirm, up to the break until a drop down below the final bulge to finish.
86. Low Level Traverse V5 6b/c
Start at the right end of the buttress by the initials JO and climb easily left to a good flat hold, past an obvious “Tennis Ball” knob as for the Standard Traverse. Now drop down to a three-finger flake, and then technical and powerful moves through the recess then up again to join the Standard Traverse as Audi Quatro is reached near the centre of the recess.
87. Griff's Variations V5 6b/c
A number of various problems based around the “Tennis Ball” are possible.
Griff Griffith 1995
Buttress Four
88. Just for the Record VB 4c/5a
The arête at the left end of the buttress.
89. It’s Just a Passing Phase V1 5b
The steep wall just right of the arête. Crimps lead to a sandy layaway, then direct to finish.
90. Ain’t No Lullaby V1 5b
Climb the wall direct to a small triangular roof.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
Just to the left is a small shallow cave at ground level.
91. Wind Up V1 5b
Start at the left side of the shallow cave. Using a big flat hold move up past the undercut to an obvious slot. Finish direct.
Ian Dunn and Stuart Bradley 1981/82 solo
92. Gordini V1 5b
Start at the right hand end of the shallow cave and climb direct.
93. Oh Carol V1 5b
Climb the wall at the right end of the buttress up sandy layaways then over the roof.
94. Misplaced Childhood S
Climb the short wall directly to the sapling.
95. Girdle Traverse V3 6a
Start at the right hand end of the buttress, move into the corner of Oh Carol. A hard sequence of moves lead left round the bulge to gain sloping holds. Heel hooks on the broken rock enable a reach to the undercuts to be made, and then drop down to a big flat hold and a frantic rest. From here a rising leftwards traverse is made using painful hand swaps on small edges lunge up and left to a good side pull and continue more easily to the arête.
Full details in the
North East England Guide