OS Sheet: 93                

Map Reference: NZ560036

Aspect: North  

Altitude: 375m

Approach Time: 25 minutes

Mini Guide: Broughton Bank Mini Guide (PDF)

History

Physical was soloed by Ian Dunn in January 1983. Ian returned with Steve Brown, Paul Ingham and Johnny Adams in February 1983 to add In the Nick of Time. Although the early activity was recorded in the BMC New climbs 1986 it was not until June 1996 that Tony Marr and Mike Tooke had a closer look and produced Quantum Leap. They returned with Frank Fitzgerald in July 1996 to clean and subsequently climb a dozen new routes on solid sandstone.
 

Situation and Character        

Located about 200m west of Raven's Scar and 100m east of the Wainstones is Broughton Bank Crag.   Composed of excellent rock, all the climbs are worthwhile, although some may benefit from a light brushing before an ascent.   The climbing is deceptively steep, making the placing of protection a strenuous activity. Although the crag is small the climbing is excellent, with some of the routes sure to become popular, especially Class Action and Gibbet.

Access and Approaches

Approach as for the Wainstones from the car park near the summit of Clay Bank, 2 miles south of Great Broughton on the B1257 Stokesley to Helmsley Road.  Leave the car park, walk along the road towards Helmsley and from its right hand side, gain the forestry track up the flank of Hasty Bank.  The track soon turns from south back to north-west and eventually west as it levels out above the forestry plantations.  Continue past the first crag (Landslip) and stile on the left; following the track as it dips gently through trees to emerge at another stile below Raven’s Scar. After a further 200m along the track the crag appears through the trees about halfway up the hillside.  Should you overshoot, the crag is clearly seen about 100m to the east by standing on the stile, which leads to the Wainstones.

The Climbs 

The climbs are described from left to right:

1. Humble Beginnings   4m   VD

Follow the short vertical corner crack.

Tony Marr   7th July 1996

2. Thin Air   5m   VD   **

Start as for Humble Beginnings but step out right onto the lip of the overhang and continue right on a fine exposed traverse.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald  7th July 1996

The next three routes start a few metres right at the lowest point of the crag.

3. Hang Em High   12m   E1 5b *

Climb the left hand of two cracks to a grassy alcove; continue up the centre of the wall left of the sharp arête.  Poor protection.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke  7th July 1996

4. Gibbet   10m   VS 4c   **

A poor start leads to an exciting finish. Start just right of Hang Em High.  Climb the centre of the wall and bulge to a ledge on the right side of the impressive prow.  Step left to ascend the impressive arête.  Easier than it looks.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald  7th July 1996

The next corner has a choice of exits.

5. Bikini Line Left Hand   12m   D   *

Climb the corner into the wide upper scoop/amphitheatre. Exit Left.

Frank Fitzgerald, Mike Tooke  7th July 1996

6. Bikini Line Right Hand   12m   M

Climb the corner into the wide upper scoop/amphitheatre. Exit right.

Frank Fitzgerald, Mike Tooke  7th July 1996

7. Quantum Leap   8m   E3 5c         **

Start from the large flat ledge up and right of Bikini Line. Climb the light coloured slab to a flat hold, pull up then go right to the arête.  A hard move gains the horizontal crack, move left to exit up a shallow groove. Strenuous.

Tony Marr  27th June 1996

8. Criss Cross   10m   E1 5b        *

Follow Quantum Leap to the arête then continue rightwards to finish up Physical.

Tony Marr, Second did not follow  8th July 1996

9. In the Nick of Time   10m   E3 5c        **

Steep and strenuous, but unfortunately it is also escapable before the crux which reduces the grade to E1 5b.  Start about 3m right of Quantum Leap and just right of the prominent groove of Physical,

 below a small roof.   Pull up on a projecting block and climb the wall direct to the break beneath the final overhanging nose.  Step left to exit up the shallow groove as for Quantum Leap or directly over the bulge at the same grade.

Steve Brown, Ian Dunn, Paul Ingham and Johnny Adams February 1983

10. Physical   8m   HVS 5a        **

Climb the prominent groove direct.  The name says it all.

Ian Dunn January 1983 solo

11. Physical RH Finish   9m    VS 4c   *

Climb the groove until it is possible to escape rightwards beneath the final nose.

Boys from Acklam Hall Grammar School certainly climbed this route and possibly others on this crag  in the early 1960's

Around the corner is:

12. Chair Lift Direct   6m   VS 5a

Climb the bulges direct.

Tony Marr solo  8th July 1996

13. Chair Lift   7m   VD

Start on the right, crossing ledges and rising slightly, to make an awkward move across the bulge (junction with the direct) pull out and finish up the final nose. Worthwhile.

Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald  7th July 1996

Full details in the

North East England Guide

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