OS Sheet: 93
Map Reference: NZ560036
Aspect: North
Altitude: 375m
Approach Time: 25 minutes
Situation and Character
Located about 200m west of Raven's Scar and 100m east of the Wainstones is Broughton Bank Crag. Composed of excellent rock, all the climbs are worthwhile, although some may benefit from a light brushing before an ascent. The climbing is deceptively steep, making the placing of protection a strenuous activity. Although the crag is small the climbing is excellent, with some of the routes sure to become popular, especially Class Action and Gibbet.
Access and Approaches
Approach as for the Wainstones from the car park near the summit of Clay Bank, 2 miles south of Great Broughton on the B1257 Stokesley to Helmsley Road. Leave the car park, walk along the road towards Helmsley and from its right hand side, gain the forestry track up the flank of Hasty Bank. The track soon turns from south back to north-west and eventually west as it levels out above the forestry plantations. Continue past the first crag (Landslip) and stile on the left; following the track as it dips gently through trees to emerge at another stile below Raven’s Scar. After a further 200m along the track the crag appears through the trees about halfway up the hillside. Should you overshoot, the crag is clearly seen about 100m to the east by standing on the stile, which leads to the Wainstones.
History
Although the crag is clearly visible from the forest track to the Wainstones it was not until August 1995 that Tony Marr and Mike Tooke had a closer look and produced Class Action at HVS 5a. They returned with Frank Fitzgerald in July 1996 to clean and subsequently climb a dozen new routes on solid sandstone.
The climbs are described from left to right:
1. Humble Beginnings 4m VD
Follow the short vertical corner crack.
Tony
Marr
7th July 1996
2. Thin Air 5m VD **
Start as for Humble Beginnings but step out right onto the lip of the overhang and continue right on a fine exposed traverse.
Tony
Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 7th July 1996
The next three routes start a few metres right at the lowest point of the crag.
3. Hang Em High 12m E1 5b *
Climb the left hand of two cracks to a grassy alcove; continue up the centre of the wall left of the sharp arête. Poor protection.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 7th July 1996
4. Gibbet 10m VS 4c **
A poor start leads to an exciting finish. Start just right of Hang Em High. Climb the centre of the wall and bulge to a ledge on the right side of the impressive prow. Step left to ascend the impressive arête. Easier than it looks.
Tony
Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 7th July 1996
The next corner has a choice of exits.
5. Bikini Line Left Hand 12m D *
Climb the corner into the wide upper scoop/amphitheatre. Exit Left.
Frank
Fitzgerald, Mike Tooke 7th July 1996
6. Bikini Line Right Hand 12m M
Climb the corner into the wide upper scoop/amphitheatre. Exit right.
Frank
Fitzgerald, Mike Tooke 7th July 1996
7. Quantum Leap 8m E3 5c
**
Start from the large flat ledge up and right of Bikini Line. Climb the light coloured slab to a flat hold, pull up then go right to the arête. A hard move gains the horizontal crack, move left to exit up a shallow groove. Strenuous.
Tony
Marr 27th June 1996
8. Criss Cross 10m E1 5b
*
Follow Quantum Leap to the arête then continue rightwards to finish up Class Action.
Tony Marr, Second did not follow 8th July 1996
9. Master Class 10m E3 5c
**
Steep and strenuous, but unfortunately it is also escapable before the crux which reduces the grade to E1 5b. Start about 3m right of Quantum Leap and just right of the prominent groove of Class Action,
below a small roof. Pull up on a projecting block and climb the wall direct to the break beneath the final overhanging nose. Step left to exit up the shallow groove as for Quantum Leap or directly over the bulge at the same grade.
Tony
Marr, Second did not follow 8th July 1996
10. Class Action 8m HVS 5a
**
Climb the prominent groove direct. The name says it all.
Tony
Marr, Mike Tooke 20th August 1995
11. Class Action RH Finish 9m VS 4c *
Climb the groove until it is possible to escape rightwards beneath the final nose.
Tony
Marr, Mike Tooke 20th August 1995
Around the corner is:
12. Chair Lift Direct 6m VS 5a
Climb the bulges direct.
Tony
Marr solo 8th July 1996
13. Chair Lift 7m VD
Start on the right, crossing ledges and rising slightly, to make an awkward move across the bulge (junction with the direct) pull out and finish up the final nose. Worthwhile.
Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald 7th July 1996
Full details in the
North East England Guide