Steve Crowe climbing  81. Problemina V5 6b

BROWN BECK CRAG (Lobley Crags)

OS Landranger Sheet: 99

Map Reference: SE125827

Aspect: SSW

Altitude: 350m

Approach Time: 45 minutes

Situation and Character
This small crag is about 25 minuets (1.5km) walk northwest from Slipstones Crag. The crag is clean but slightly sandy gritstone, this should clean up with traffic. The crag is never more than 6m high. Many large boulders lie in front of the crag some of which can provide some good boulder problems.

History
The crag was first climbed on by Dave Paul and Steve Brown in 1983 when they recorded ascents of Witchita Linesman, Pella and Brown Boots, amongst others. The crags location was later shared with Paul Ingham and Tony Marr who visited the rocks in 1984 repeating the existing routes and adding several more, including the bold Ingham’s Route, Den and L’unacy.

The rocks were “re-discovered” in January 1988 by Tony Burnell and Chris Sowden and independently by Paul Clark and Nick Dalzel in April of the same year. Both parties were unaware that the crag had already been developed and subsequently recorded numerous first ascents in the 1989 Yorkshire Gritstone Guide. The two teams had in fact repeated all the existing climbs adding a couple of worthwhile additions in the process, these include Nuttalls Mintoe, Cadbury’s Flake and the excellent Wobbler.

Tony Marr and Geoff Vaughan also visited in 1988 and unearthed some short problems, including Hanging Crack, Bandido and Hombre. They returned in 1989 to claim amongst others the difficult Cutting Edge, Drop Zone and the problematic Next of Kin. Between 1990 and 1997 no further new climbs were reported.

In 1997 while checking descriptions for the YMC guide several worthwhile lower grade routes were discovered, including the enjoyable Tyto and Rugrats by Marr and The Watchman by Frank Fitzgerald. During 2000 Matt Henderson contributed Watchman’s Neb and John-Paul Hotham added El Mariachi on the flat Topped Boulder. Following the exposure in the new YMC guide a number of easier fillers were added by various parties.

Access and Approaches
The true Brown Beck Crag is situated several hundred metres to the East, and midway between Slipstones and Lobley Crags, and comprises a jumble of clearly visible boulders. The edge can be seen to the west of Slipstones although the recorded climbing is just out of sight. The normal approach is from Masham, home of Theakstons and The Black Sheep Breweries. Pass through the villages of Fearby and Healey. After leaving Healey take the second turning on the right into Colsterdale, at a fork in the road. Follow the road for a further 3 kilometres to where an obvious parking place will appear on the right just beyond some hairpin bends on the bank. PLEASE PARK SENSIBLY. From the parking area, follow the farm track that contours the hillside westward until it turns north through a dry stone wall towards a farm. Leave the farm track and keeping the drystone wall on your right continue for 350m to a gate. Follow the track up onto the moor past Slipstones. After about 5 minutes leave the track on a westerly bearing, cross the stream and continue on the same bearing across the moor for about 25 minutes until the crag is reached.

The Climbs
These are described from RIGHT to LEFT.

Buttress 1 - The Watch Tower
This is the isolated block at the extreme right end of the crag.

1. The Watchman 5m D
Start at the left side of the front (South) face. Surmount the undercut and climb the short wall.
Frank Fitzgerald, Tony Marr 9th March 1997

The Watchman

2. Watchman’s Neb 5m VS 4c
The juggy right arête of The Watchtower.
Matt Henderson (solo) Jan 2000

Buttress 2 - Tilting Buttress

Situated 15 metres to the left (West) of the Watch Tower.

3. Little Wall 4m D
Climb the centre of the East wall.
Tony Marr, 9th March 1997

4. Tyto 6m S *
Climb the stepped arête to an awkward exit around the top block.
Tony Marr, 23rd February 1997

5. Cheap Trick 6m S *
Gain the sloping ledge by a variety of ways. The strenuous hanging crack provides the exit.
Tony Marr, 23rd February 1997

The buttress drops in height and forms an angled corner. The next climbs ascend the short wall just left of the corner.

6. Gideon Up 3m VS 5a
Climb the bulge just right of the thin vertical crack.
Tony Marr, 23rd February 1997

7. Beat it 3m VS 4c
Climb the slabby arête left of Off Beat
Jamie Moss, 29th March 2002

8. Off Beat 3m D *
The pleasant curving flake crack.
Tony Marr, June/July 1984

9. Easy Arête 3m MS
Starting from a boulder, climb the arête left of Rugrats either on its left side or - slightly harder - on its right.
Jamie Moss, 29th March 2002

10. Rugrats 4m VS 5a
Ascend the steep wall passing a recess in the break. Awkward.
Tony Marr, 23rd February 1997

Buttress 3 - Holly Buttress

Situated behind Buttress 2, it forms the right end of the main edge.

11. Staircase 5m HD
Start a few metres right of the Holly Tree. Step from a boulder onto a stepped wall; trend leftwards to finish on the top block.
Tony Marr, 9th March 1997

11a. Staircase Direct 5m HS 5a
From largest part of roof, pull up on jug and small toehold on left, and then finish as for Staircase. Maybe harder if you are too short to reach jug.
Chris Fryer, Autumn 2004 Chris is 6ft 2inches tall!

12. Big Boss 5m MVS 4b
Climb the rib and bulge right of the holly.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

13. Top Man 5m S 4b
Climb the arête left of the holly on its right side.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

14. Holly Hover 5m VS 4b
Start just left of the arête, move up to the break, traverse left to finish up a short flake.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark,Dalzel 1988

15. Wichita Linesman 6m HVS 5b **
Start in the crevasse, climb the hanging corner crack. Requires a positive approach, low in its grade.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983

Wichita Linesman

16. Fists of Fury 5m E2 5c *
The frowning wall to the left of Wichita Lineman is bold and excellent.
John-Paul Hotham, March 2000

Main Wall and Letterbox Wall

Buttress 4 - Main Wall
The next climb starts near the top of the gully on the left wall.

17. Gully Wall 3m S
Climb the slabby scoop in the wall.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter Shawcross 9th March 1997

18. Talespin 4m VS 4b
The wall past a shallow pocket to an awkward exit.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter Shawcross 9th March 1997

19. Dab Hand 4m VS 4c
Climbs the right arete of the narrow chimney. Start in the chimney but pull out right to finish. “Bridging” is not allowed.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter Shawcross 9th March 1997

20. Cutting Edge 4m E1 6a *
The tricky arete just left of the narrow chimney is climbed mainly on the front face.
Tony Marr, Geoff Vaughan, May 1989

20a. S**t flies 5m E1 6a
About 3 feet left of Cutting Edge up to horizontal and a huge reach to top, for a big reacher!
Ryan Plews, Ian Cummins, 31st October 2004

20b. Clangers 5m E1 5c/6a
Start at centre of wall, up to horizontal and reach left to flake/pocket - crux reach to top.
Ian Cummins, Ryan Plews, 31st October 2004

21. Big Mig 7m E3 5c
Climbs the pocketed wall between Escape and Cutting Edge.
John-Paul Hotham, March 2000 
 

22. Escape 7m VS 5a
Gain the ledge via the short wall. The hanging flake proves awkward to reach but slightly easier to leave.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

23. Ingham’s Route 7m E3 5c
The short arête is climbed onto the ledge. Continue up the bold overhanging arete.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, June/July 1984

24. Transcendence 6m E1 5c *
Climb the flake just left of the arête to pass the overhang. Finish up the ramp.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

25. Phenomenonlogy 6m E2 6a
Climb the wall just right of the left facing groove of Pella.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

26. Pella 6m VS 4c ***
Gain the left facing groove to exit up the capped corner. An excellent climb.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

Pella

27. Nuttalls Mintoe 6m HVS 5a
Climb the wall between the hanging crack and the groove direct, finish up a leaning scoop.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark,Dalzel 1988

28. Let the Children Play 6m VS 4c
Climb direct to, and up the hanging crack.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

29. Child’s Play 6m HVS 5c
Climb the wall just right of the hanging ledge.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

30. Cadbury’s Flake 6m HVS 5a
Ascend the wall just left of the hanging ledge via a suspect flake. Gain the ledge and finish up the awkward wall.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark,Dalzel 1988

31. Mouth to Mouth 5m VS 5a
Climb the wall 2m left of the hanging ledge.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark, Dalzel 1988

32. Browned Off 17m VS 5a
A traverse of the Main Wall. Start from Mouth to Mouth and follow the break rightwards to finish up Escape.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark, Dalzel 1988

Buttress 5 - Letterbox Wall

33. Dealer 6m VS 4c
Climb the narrow wall at the entrance to the gully.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

Dealer

34. Bahia 6m HVS 5b *
Start just left of the arete. Climb the wall passing a rock scar.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

35. Brigand 6m E1 5c
The wall between Bahia and The Wobbler via a couple of tricky moves.
John-Paul Hotham 11th March 2000

36. The Wobbler 6m E1 5b *
Start a metre right of the niche, climb the delicate wall rightwards to the break. Finish direct.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark,Dalzel 1988

37. Brown Boots 6m HVS 5b
Climb the wall via the Letterbox slot.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

Brown Boots

38. Big Boots 5m VS 4c
Climb the wall just right of the left arete.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

39. Dawn 4m S 4a
The left arete of the wall.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

Dawn

40. The Other Arête 10m VS 4c
Climb the left arete (Dawn) to the break, follow the break to the right arete and finish.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark,Dalzel 1988

41. Curving Chimney 4m D
The short chimney.
Tony Marr, June/July 1984

42. Chimney Wall 4m MS 4a
Climb the wall 2 metres left of the chimney using a pocket hold.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark,Dalzel 1988

43. Clean Sweep 4m MS 4a
Ascend the stepped wall 4m left of the chimney. Enjoyable climbing.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark,Dalzel 1988

44. Sweep's Arête 3m S 4a
Climb the arête left of Clean Sweep.
Jamie Moss, Jussi Juutinen, 20th April 2002

44a. Spanish Crawl VS 5b
There is a wall to the left of the arête left of Clean Sweep with a big break at mid height. Undercut this on a goodish hold and span to top. Much harder without 6ft 2in reach.
Chris Fryer, Autumn 2004 Chris is 6ft 2inches tall!

On a small block between Buttresses 5 and 6.

45. Top Hat 3m S 4b
Climb the centre of the right-hand wall, finishing by a small crack.
Jamie Moss, Jussi Juutinen, 20th April 2002

46. Flat Cap 3m S
Climb the left-hand wall, trending right around the roof
Jamie Moss, Jussi Juutinen, 20th April 2002

Buttress 6 - Narrow Buttress
Situated 15 metres to the left of Buttress 5.

47. Den 5m VS 5a
Climb the right arete on its left side.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, June/July 1984

48. Derrick 5m HVS 5c/6a
An independent line between Den and Eric. Layaway off rounded flake then smear and push up to the break. Toe in break then crimp to good holds with a long reach.
Matt Henderson, 28th December 2000

49. Eric 5m HVS 5b
Climb the centre of the front wall starting from the left.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

50. Cave Chimney 5m D
This is the short capped chimney separating the buttresses. Climb the left arete of the chimney.
Tony Marr, 23rd February 1997

Buttress 7 - Owl Buttress

51. Square Corner 4m VD
The short, awkward corner behind the block.
Tony Marr, 23rd February 1997

52. Owl Wall 5m HS 4b
Step off the block and climb the wall on flat holds.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark,Dalzel, 1988

53. Pussy Cat 7m VS 5a
Start right of the arete. Two breaks lead to a small slot, step left then back right to finish.
Burnell, Sowden or Clark,Dalzel 1988

Pussy Cat

54. High Adventure 8m HVS 5a *
Start under the jutting roof. Climb up into the chimney then hand traverse the lip of the overhang to the arête and finish direct.
Dave Paul and Steve Brown, 1983.

High Adventure

55. Go Within 7m 4c
Climb the wall 1 metre left of the roof
Dave Paul and Steve Brown 1983.

56. Owl Corner 3m D
The short corner.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter Shawcross, 9th March 1997

56a Shortie's Jump 4m 5a/b

Climb the wall and arête to the left of Owl Corner.

Phillipe Osborne

57. Heartbeat 4m VD
Climb the wide crack just left of the corner.
Tony Marr, 23rd February 1997

58. Heart Ache 4m VS
5a/bThe arête left of Heartbeat.
Matt Henderson, January 2000

59. Smiley Dog Arête 5m E2 6a
Undercling the base of the arête right of Fire Brigade Chimney to gain a small slopey crack in the arête. Gain the break (crux) and lay off to the right to reach a rounded finish.
Matt Henderson, January 2000

60. Fire Brigade 5m VS
The obvious wide chimney.
Tony Marr, 23rd February 1997

Left hand end of Brown Beck Crag

Buttress 8 - Leaning Buttress

Forming the left side of the chimney is the massive block of Buttress 8.

61. Next of Kin 5m E2 6a
Climb the left arête of the chimney.
Tony Marr, Geoff Vaughan, May 1989

62. L’unacy 5m E2 5c *
The overhanging arête of the block with a nasty finish.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, June/July 1984

63. Last Gasp 4m E2 5c
Climb the centre of the leaning wall to another “interesting” exit.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, June/July 1984

64. Clueless 3m VS 5a
Climb the left arête on its right side.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, June/July 1984

65. The Crevasse 4m VD
Back-and-foot the pleasant wide chimney at the left-hand edge of the buttress.

Buttress 9 - Little Buttress
A few metres further left is a small buttress with a slabby arête, this is:

66. Butt End 4m D *
Pleasant climbing up the slabby arête.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter Shawcross, 9th March 1997

67. Butt Head 3m D *
Climb the wall just left of the arête.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Peter Shawcross, 9th March 1997


Buttress 10 - Last Buttress

68. Foolproof Zip 4m VS 4c
Ascend the centre of the wall that forms right-hand side of buttress 11 using small steps and a crimp. Nice moves. Poor landing.
Jamie Moss, 17th March 2002 (solo)

Foolproof Zip

68a. Bedlam Variation V2/3
Wall just to the right of Bedlam, and left of Foolproof Zip. Pull up on two crappy crimpers, rock up on left foot to poor holds in feature slanting up and rightwards, then the top. Very close to Bedlam.
Chris Fryer, Autumn 2004 Chris is 6ft 2inches tall!

Variation on Bedlam

69. Bedlam 4m VS 4b
The steep arête direct.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, June/July 1984

70. Ledge End 3m D
Climb the stepped wall direct.
Mike Tooke, 9th March 1997

Buttress 11 - Sunken Block

This is the large slabby block slanting down the hillside.

71. Undun 4m VS 5a
Start 1 metre from the right edge of the slab. Climb the slab direct.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, June/July 1984

72. Slant 4m HVS 5b *
Climb diagonally leftwards up the centre of the slab. Enjoyable moves.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr, June/July 1984

73. Big Easy 4m HVS 5b *
Start just right of the left edge and climb the wall/slab direct.
Tony Marr, Geoff Vaughan, May 1989

74. Drop Zone 4m E1 5c
Climb the overhanging wall on sloping breaks to a difficult finish.
Tony Marr, Geoff Vaughan, May 1989

75. Heatsink 6m V1 5b
Climb the overhanging left arête then traverse up the west face and through the narrow gap on improving holds.
Steve Crowe, 9th August 2002

Heatsink

The Boulders
There are many good boulder problems to be discovered below the main edge but only those climbs currently reported are described here.

Target Block

A small bullet scarred block situated a few metres below Buttress 9.

76. Cross Fire 3m S 4b
The short left arête.
Steve Crowe, 9th August 2002

77. Target Wall 3m 5a
The centre of the short wall.
Steve Crowe, 9th August 2002

Triangular Block
A slabby block situated a few metres below the bullet scarred Target Block.

78. South Face Route 4m V1 5b
Climb the centre of the face via a slanting fault.
Tony Marr, June/July 1984

South Face Route

Flat Topped Block

Situated 30 metres below Buttress 2. The climbs are described left to right and start at the obvious hanging crack on the south side of the block.

78a. West Wall 3m VB 5a
Towards the left side of the West Wall.
Karin Magog 2005

79. Splat 3m VB 5a
The centre of the west face.
Steve Crowe, 9th August 2002

80. Free Fall 3m V1 5a
The vauge arête starting at the left edge of the undercut section of the crag.
Steve Crowe, 9th August 2002

Freefall

81. Problemina 4m V5 6b
For those climbers possessing rubber legs and a 2.5m reach, here’s one for you! Ascend the widest part of the roof, just left of Hanging Crack.
Geoff Vaughan, May 1989

Problemina

82. Hanging Crack 4m V2 5c
Climb the distinctly awkward crack.
Tony Marr, Geoff Vaughan, August1988

83. Bandido 4m V1 5b
Start just right of the crack. Gain the ledge and obvious pocket direct.
Tony Marr, Geoff Vaughan, August1988

84. Hombre 4m V1 5b
The arête to the right.
Tony Marr, Geoff Vaughan, August1988

85. El Mariachi 4m V5 6b
A good problem up the wall right of Hombre via a pocket.
John-Paul Hotham, March 2000


The Isolated Arête

86. Outlaw 5b
The isolated arête 200 metres left of the main crag.
John-Paul Hotham 11th March 2000 (possibly done before)


A further 30 metres lower is another freestanding boulder, this is Easy Block. Several short, easy climbs can be made on this block, but do not warrant descriptions.

For those wanting further exercise, there is another small crag about 15 minutes walk up the valley. The face is quarried and about 5 metres high. Three easy climbs are recorded, the right trending crack, a small corner and the wall to the left.



Graded List

E3
Big Mig 5c

E2
Phenomenonlogy 6a
Ingham’s Route 5c
Fists of Fury 5c
Next of Kin 6a
Smiley Dog Arête 6a
L’unacy 5c
Last Gasp 5c

El
Cutting Edge 6a
Transcendence 5c
Brigand 5c
Drop Zone 5c
The Wobbler 5b

HVS
El Mariachi 6b
Child’s Play 5c
Derrick 5c/6a
Bahia 5b
Eric 5b
Brown Boots 5b
Wichita Linesman 5b
High Adventure 5a
Cadbury’s Flake 5a
Nuttalls Mintoe 5a
Problemina 6b
Hanging Crack 5c
Slant 5b
Big Easy 5b
South Face Route 5b
Hombre 5b
Bandido 5b

VS
Heatsink 5b
Outlaw 5b
Escape 5a
Den 5a
Mouth to Mouth 5a
Browned Off 5a
Pussy Cat 5a
Pella 4c
Let the Children Play 4c
Dealer 4c
Big Boots 4c
Rugrats 5a
Dab Hand 4c
Clueless 5a
The Other Mete 4c
Beat It 4c
Go Within 4c
Undun 5a
Foolproof Zip 4c
Holly Hover 4b
Bedlam 4b
Talespin 4b
Big Boss 4b
Gideon Up 5a

S
Owl Wall 4b
Top Man 4b
Top Hat 4b
Flat Cap
Tyto
Cheap Trick
Dawn
Gully Wall
Chimney Wall
Clean Sweep

MS
Easy Arête

VD
Fire Brigade
Heartbeat
Square Corner

D
Staircase
Butt End
Curving Chimney
Butt Head
The Watchman
Ledge End
Cave Chimney
Off Beat
Little Wall
Owl Corner


 

Full details in the

North East England Guide

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