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OS Landranger Sheet 81

Map Reference: NU065092
Alt. 230m

North Facing
20 mins
 

History
Developed by Andrew Earl, John Earl and Ian Murray during the summer of 2000. The Young, which climbs the centre of Tombstone Buttress, is a technical and sustained route as good as any in the County and at E8 7a is on a par with the hardest routes in the County. Andy Cowley added Iron Head and Where do we go from Here? on 30 April 2006, grades subject to confirmation (Andy is 6ft 6in tall!).
 

Situation and Character
These independent pinnacles and buttresses lie in Thrunton Wood close to Callaly Village on the steep north facing slopes. Although north facing they are reasonably clean and take very little drainage.
 

Approaches and Access
Turn left off the A697 at the Whittingham crossroads. Follow the unclassified road to Whittingham and turn left towards Callaly. Park at some large beech trees on the east side of the wood some 2 miles from Whittingham. Follow tracks up through the wood to McCartney’s Cave via Castle Hill. The location of all of the buttresses is referenced to McCartney’s Cave.
 

The Climbs
The routes are described from right to left.

Slab Buttress
This buttress which has a prominent flake up its centre and is topped by a slab is reached by traversing the hillside leftwards for 50 metres from McArtney’s Cave.

00. Iron Head   10m   E2 6a
Climb the face and arête on the right side. Gain the slab and make delicate moves up here to finish as for Summers End.

0. Where do we go from Here?   9m   E2 6a
Starting on the arête, pull onto the left face above a vegetated ledge using obvious holds. Use these and the arête to gain the slab above. Finish as for Summers End.

1. Summers End 10m E1 5c
A good route. Climb the corner to the overhang, gain the flake awkwardly and quit it for the slab even more awkwardly. Follow the slab direct to the tree.

Tombstone Buttress
This superb buttress is approximately 100 metres left of McArtneys Cave. It has a jam crack to the right of a smooth overhanging pancake-covered wall, which is The Young.

2. Parental Guidance 7m E4 6b
The right arête, which provides good, if slightly contrived climbing. Climb the arête on the left making use of the hole in the centre of the wall. Avoid the temptation to bridge across the gully right of the arête.

3. The Auld 8m HVS 5a **
The fine well protected crack.

4. The Young 9m E8 7a ***
A superb, very bold unprotected route. Start beneath the shield in the centre of the wall, left of the crack. Make difficult moves up the shield to gain a good hand hold, move left to two, two finger pockets which are used to gain a pancake above. Move back right to stand on the good hand hold and yet another pancake. A hard move enables a small crimp, a jug and then the top to be reached, if you are good enough.

5. Family Affair 10m E4 6b ***
A fine route up the left arête. Gain the ledge with some difficulty. Climb the arête which is hard to start. Use holds on the right wall until the slab can be gained using the fluting near the top.

Ant Buttress
Situated 50 metres left and a little higher up the hillside.

6. Eaten Alive 7m E2 5c
The wall right of the arête is climbed using a pocket and the arête.

7. Sleepless Nights 8m E3 6a *
The wall left of the arête. Climb the arête to the break and then up the wall on ironstone crimps.

8. Deet Crack 8m E2 6a **
The thin crack up the centre of the wall provides good well protected climbing.

9. Mossie Net 8m VS 4c
The groove at the left side of the buttress.
 

For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.

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