Climbonline.co.uk

OS Landranger sheet 80

Map Reference: NY852863

South West Facing

Alt. 323m

30 minutes

By Steve Crowe and  Dan Varian

History

Callerhues has a very short history. Although climbers had visited the crag over the years, there are no documented records of the routes. In 1976 John Earl and Bob Hutchinson visited the crag and climbed the classic Callerhues Crack and the dark Callerhues Chimney. They also soloed a few other lines. At this time the crag was in poor condition and nothing else was considered worthwhile. The crag was rediscovered in 1978 by Tommy and Bob Smith accompanied by Pete Alderson, who took it upon themselves to clean the crag up. Within three months it had yielded some fifty new routes. Other people to climb new routes were Steve Blake with Boulevard and Earl with Arkle. Although the crag was climbed on regularly there were no further developments until 1979 when Bob Smith climbed Dulalai T.A.P., Sheer Temptation and the technical Crouching The Mahogany. In 1984 Alan Moist with Dave Carr popped up Toshiba Receiver. A visit to the crag in the summer of 1985 found the overhanging crack left of Callerhues Chimney cleaned but unclimbed. An on sight solo by Bob Smith gave Second Born in celebration of his daughter. 1988 saw only a couple of short routes, with Bob Smith as the author of Chouca and The Storyteller. Four routes were added in 1990, the best being New Kids on the Rock and Shadow Players by John Boyle and Gavin Ellis.  Dan Varian made significant effort  during 2003/4 to climb and record over fifty boulder problems at the two ends of the escarpment, The Eyes of Silence V10 being his most stunning addition. Adam Watson climbed a bold eliminate between Rice Krispies and Toshiba Receiver to produce 40.5 during the autumn of 2005.

Situation and Character

A beautifully situated crag, overlooking Bellingham at the south end of Corsenside Common. The rock is Fell Sandstone and gives a variety of climbing techniques including the use of flakes, cracks, walls and small finger pockets. Bellingham is a lovely quaint town with all the amenities you could possibly need  for a bouldering/ routing mission. There are plenty of places to camp or stay due to it being on the Pennine way and many cycle routes. There is also a golf course and Kielder water is only 15 minutes drive away for water sports, rallying or whatever else you want to do in a massive forest and Europe's largest artificial lake. In Bellingham park there is also a vert ramp! Not bad for an isolated skate session surrounded by sheep and fields. Bellingham also has (had?) a tourist information centre which will provide info on other things to do for non climbers. Shaftoe, Rothley, Great Wanney and Howlerhirst are all nearby.

Climate

Northumberland National Park is the northernmost National Park in England and Wales, being entirely above 55° latitude. It is in the coldest county in England with mean summer temperatures in the northern lowlands of Northumberland 0.5°C below those found 100km to the south. Mean summer temperatures decline northwards across the country, and mean winter temperatures decline eastwards. The Environment Agency indicated that the July mean temperatures should be 11°C at 600m a.s.l. and 10°C at 750m a.s.l.. Mean accumulated temperature above 0°C (day-degrees), January to June, for the Park vary inversely with altitude, ranging between 850 and 1150 degrees. Precipitation is greatest over the higher ground, but due to the easterly position of the Park and the position of the high land, there is a significant rain shadow effect. This results in the Cheviot receiving a little over 1145mm per annum, whereas the lower hills within the Park may have only 890mm. The prevailing winds are from the south west, but there are cold winds from the east during winter.

Geology

The hard geology of the Park dates mainly from the Palaeozoic era between approximately 440 million and 225 million years ago. Characteristic features include the igneous andesites and granite of the Cheviot Hills, the Fell Sandstones around Rothbury and Simonside and (probably most famously) The Great Whin Sill intrusion (quartz dolerite) along which Hadrian’s Wall was built. This hard geology and the landscape were shaped further during the Quaternary era when glaciers moved over Northumberland and the North of England between 25000 and 12000 years ago. On a clear day you can see Hadrian's wall from the crag. And at the back of the great flake boulder there are axe scratchings most likely from an old sentry post or an overactive imagination. A resident barn owl also lives at the crag in the second born crack. The odd lizard can be seen sometimes too.

A Foreword by Dan Varian

An unsung dark grey ever cresting, never breaking, wave over Bellingham. Callerhues is unknown to most of Britain's climbing public and it is a treasured secret to those who know of its escapism. Its location is a natural barrier for popularity with it being located just outside the middle of nowhere (see map). Like most great Northumberland crags its reputation precedes it, scaring off those who value, creature comforts like gear placements or a nearby road for ambulance access. Once when talking to one of Carlisle’s fantastic four about the crag he mentioned about one of his biggest scares in climbing being at Callerhues soloing a “VS” and getting into to usual Callerhues committed top out when the grey matter turned thoughts to grave matters, needless to say he stepped up and stepped into the wave of euphoria that arrives after any climb of the crag. It goes a bit like, holy s**t I’m still alive what a fantastic view there is up here, what an awesome place, what an awesome climb, how the hell do I get down. Grades at Callerhues, like most of the Northeast, are perfect in the way that they shouldn't be taken seriously and add amusement to the climbing. Take nothing for granted at the crag there are VS’s which could relieve you of the use of your legs and E4s where you can walk away laughing at how high you bounced. Most of the landings are lovely soft grass or, in the case of around second born, a bog, (if you feel like soloing things at your limit here it may be worth wearing a rope so someone can pull you out). Take the grades with a fist of salt to make sure you don’t end up rubbing your wounds with it. It’s the wrong crag to go looking for a soft tick, but the fact that every route is incredible on the finest mountain sandstone around means the grades just end up being a rough guide to a lot of fun. That said if you want to do the worlds hardest MVS try “sidewalk” or a true Northumberland HVS “Coppers Nark” these 2 monumental sandbags could bruise more than your ego, but both are fully engaging experiences which everyone should try once, but only once. Why mention routes in a bouldering topo? Because to go to Callerhues and not do any would be sacrilege to this unique venue especially as the routes at Callerhues fall into that beautiful zone where they’re almost too high for boulder problems and short enough to make you feel a bit stupid for wearing a rope especially if you wore a full rack, which would end up sitting uselessly at the top of the crag anyway as there aren't any belays. However, Routes on central buttress area are worth a rope especially those to the left of Callerhues crack and these are definitely soloing not just alpine balls so if you feel like trying them ropeless know what you’re letting yourself in for. In this age of bouldering pads and mobiles most of the routes are “safe” in the sense that you will be able to walk away from a ground fall and be fine (at worst in a day or two). Just remember this though, the first ascentionists of these routes like Bob Smith, Tommy smith and John earl didn’t tend to use a rope either or a pad just some big Cahones and northern burl “top roping” has always been a bit of a swear word in the northeast. If you’re a bit of a eunuch and don’t like soloing then there is enough bouldering to satisfy anyone at any grade, if you can live with yourself on the walkout. So use this topo in conjunction with the excellent Route guide and take into account that I have tried to keep in check with traditional grading at the crag (all over the place). so apologies for any discrepancies there’s bound to be a few feel free to email the at climbonline crew and complain if you’re really that anal. Callerhues is a Mr Miagi of a crag it looks short and grey but if you show it any contempt it'll leave you Crouching the mahogany with a bruised arse and weeping fingers. The crag is good for visits all year round, but in summer the bracken can get a bit annoying when walking around and in winter ground can get a touch boggy, but these aren’t major problems just a heads up to bring some napalm and a dingy. The guide is by no means definitive.

Approaches and Access

Follow the B6320 into Bellingham turn right (east) following the West Woodburn road for 1 mile up the hill to a sharp right hand bend. At this point take the road marked Access to Blakelaw Farm. Follow this to the cattle grid to the farm (limited parking). Be kind and courteous to any farmers you meet as they’re all pretty spot on and remember your parking in their garden. From here follow the Pennine Way north to the small copse of trees on top of the hill. The crag can be seen in the east (on the right) and reached after a pleasant thirty-minute walk across the moor. Permission to park should at all times be sought from the farm. Large groups and dogs disturb sheep so are not welcome. There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.

The Climbs

The rock at Callerhues is mostly flawless it is very easy to clean and once clean it is perfect. A soft brush is more than adequate for removing excess chalk. If it’s a first ascent a towel is useful to remove lichen and in extreme cases a soft suede brush on the hardest lichen but NEVER on bare rock. A splendid if rather remote crag with many short routes that can perhaps be better protected by a pad than a rope. Check out the detached flake area and the wall just left of this. More short bouldering can be found to the right of the crag too. Only go to Callerhues when there has definitely been 2 dry days prior to your visit this is due to the silica bonds in sandstone weakening when wet and it begins to lose its consistency becoming brittle, you may also end up badly hurting yourself when a chicken finally loses its head 8m up and your foots on it . This rock has been here unharmed for 330 million years and it would be nice if it could stay that way. To put selfish desire in front of the environment is not a very clever thing to do when you’re a climber. Like chipping it may get you to the top but everyone else will be looking down on you, why bother? when you  can just come back another day after you’ve trained a bit more The rocks not going anywhere unless people trash it, so don’t bother. “There are two cardinal sins from which others spring: Impatience and Laziness”

The climbs are described from left to right.

Callerhues Left Hand

This section of the crag contains some superb boulder problems that could occupy the average boulder for hours, it also hides some crag classics like Air and On the mark

The Play Pen

The first climbable buttress at Callerhues with many of problems at various grades it is a good warm up area with a few classics to soften the palette ready for the main course.

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right.

1.        On the Mark  V7 6c   Font 7a+

SS. Brilliant moves to the sloping pocket via pin point accuracy, start pinching the arête with left and side pull with right.

2.        Bracken Black   V5 6b   Font 6c

SS. Up the arête from sitting.

3.        Pinch Punch (first of the bunch)   V2 5c   Font 5+

Up the arête from standing (sit start is an open project).

Both cracks either side of Pinch Punch have been climbed at easy grades the right one is often wet.

4.        Colour Bruise   V2 5c  Font 5+

Climb the engaging wall putting fingers in every hole. Achy brakey landing.

The other half of the play pen offers mandatory problems which serve as a great introduction to the crag.

5.        Pick your Pleasure   V1 5b   Font 5

Various ways up this bit of rock with a bit of everything to warm up on.

6.        Cloud 9   V2 5c   Font 5+

Flake to chicken heading fantabulous, sit down start is an open project.

7.        Love Handles   V4 6b   Font 6b

SS. Climb up to the arête and side pull, from pockets in the hollow.

Air Bloc

The line on this boulder may well leave you short of breath especially the last move, even more so if you don’t make it.

8.        Air   V7 6c   Font 7a+

Truly incredible, perfectly formed, feat of nature. Start by pinching the arête with right and a perfect crimp for left it only gets better from here on. The landing makes you think twice about coming down.

Andy Cowley making the second ascent of Air on Sunday 1st May 2005

9.      Postal Service   V4 6b  Font 6b

Question is can you reach the letter box?

Between Air Bloc and the Black Pig

The main crag starts to show with many easy warm up solos, the main wall straight up the first pinnacle to my knowledge is still an untried project it just needs a cleaned. Just round the corner from this is the Kidney Stone which is a beautiful little piece of rock which has the “if it were just 6 foot bigger” feel about it. It still has 1 micro project on it, which the author is trying, and a great micro problem. The project, as always, is open but its only one move on a crag of thousands and can be easily walked past. If you feel you must try it then go ahead, Make My Day.

10.     Flake Wall 8m VS 4c  *

11.     The Felter's Teapot 8m VS 4c

12.     Chockstone Crack 8m MVS 4b

13.     Bait Cabin Wall 8m VD

The next routes are 20m to the right on the wall containing the flutings to the left of the detached wall area. At the extreme left hand side is a square cut corner with a roof.

14.     Pinched 7m HVS 5b

15.     Thunderclap 7m VS 5a

16.     Pincher Wall 7m VS 4c

17.     Twin Cracks 7m MVS 4c

18.     Arkle 7m VS 5a

19.     Side Walk 7m MVS 5a

Kidney Stone

Spilt Milk Project

It is hard and crappy, no point going anywhere near it!

20.     Snap Crackle and Pop   V2 5b   Font 5+

SS. The nice arête climbed on its left.

The Black Pig

A superb feature.

21.     Iron Pirate   V2 5b   Font 5+

A brilliant micro problem up the rail. Try it feet following for more fun.

22.     Peg Leg   V2 5b   Font 5+  

Mmm fingertip mono mantles you just know it’s got to be done you completist you.

Detached Wall Area

23.     Handrail 5m VS 5b   (V1 5b)

24.     Boulevard 7m E3 6b **   (V5 6b)

25.     Curbside 7m E1 5c   (V2 5c)

26.      Footpath 7m E1 5b *   (V1 5b)

27.     Paving 5m MVS 5a

28.     Ta Mac 20 m  E1 5c   (V2 5c)

29.     The Eyes Of Silence Font 7c+

A superlative boulder problem formed by a Michelangelo of carboniferous sandstone sculpture. The siren of the crag it draws you in, take care of it, respect it and you should win. Climb the prow direct all the way to its very tip. An unbelievable top out with your toe on the end of the prow half mantling half praying not to be shut down and a whole lot of air, getting there is no “footpath”. Happy Landings.

Just right of and behind the detached block is…

30.     Blocked Chimney 8m D

31.     The Mall 8m HVS 5a

32.     Quarrel Arête 7m E1 5b *   (V2 5b)

Note: Tom’s Peeping, Monocle and Coppers Nark may also be considered as highball problems but take care.

33.     Tom's Peeping 7m VS 5a **      (V0 5a)?

34.     Monocle 7m VS 5a   (V0 5a)?

35.     Coppers Nark 7m HVS 5a  *   (V0 5a)?

A few small poor climbs are possible before the next large wall is reached. The next large wall contains the finest highball problem at Callerhues…

36.     Crouching the Mahogany 8m E4 6b Twice  ***    V7 6b

Considered by many as a highball boulder problem rather than an unprotectable route!

37.     Weeping Fingers 8m E1 5c  ***    V2 5c

May be considered too serious without a rope for some, as the last move is the hardest.

38.     The Storyteller 8m E3 6b  *   V5 6b

39.     Task Master 5m VS 4c  *

40.     The Whip 7m HVS 5a

Central Buttress Pinnacle

So far this pinnacle only has one problem albeit a good one

41.     Ming Vase   (V4 6b)   Font 6b

Climb the arête by thinking “helium” and don’t break it.

Main Central Buttress

42.     Gully Wall 6m HVS 5b

43.     Dolcis Arête 7m E3 6a  ** 

44.     Rain Drops 8m E1 5b  *

45.      Shadow Players 9m E3 5b

46.     Pot-Hole Wall 10m E4 5c

47.     Shoe Horn 12m HVS 5a

48.     Tossin a Wobbler 12m E2 5b

49.     Callerhues Crack 12m HVS 5a  ***

Karin Magog on Callerhues Crack,

50.     Twin Hats 12m E2 5c

51.     Ned Kelly 12m E3 5c  **

52.     Second Born 12m E5 6b  ***

53.     Callerhues Chimney 12m VS 4c *

54.     Rice Krispies 12m E3 5c *

55.     40.5   E4 6a

A bold eliminate between Rice Krispies and Toshiba Receiver.

Adam Watson leading 40.5  E4 6a

Photo: Watson Collection

56.     Toshiba Receiver 10m E3 5c **

No Fly Zone

20 m to the right is a buttress providing short routes. The next climb is on the prominent overhanging arête.

57.     Pilot's Licence 10m E1 5b

58.     Air Time 8m E1 5b

Square Bay Area

The next area is the square bay. To its left is a large wall with a hanging flake. Perhaps Green Fluff, Dulalai TAP, Micro and possibly Sheer Temptation could be considered as highball bouldering. Take care!

59.     Cold Start 8m VS 6a   (V3 6a)?

60.     Green Fluff 10m E2 6a   **   (V3 6a)?

61.     Dulalai T.A.P. 10m E4 6b   (V5 6b)?

62.     Sheer Temptation 10m E4 6b *    (V5 6b)?

63.     The Mongrel 10m E3 5c *

64.     Flake Corner 7m S

65.     Polo 6m D

66.     Micro 10m E2 5c   (V2 5c)?

Parallel Cracks Area

The following three parallel cracks can be each climbed at Very Severe standard:-

67.     Tom 7m VS 4c  *

68.     Dick 7m VS 4c  *

69.     Harry 7m VS 4c  *

70.     Hanging Crack 7m E1 5b *

71.     Chouca 7m E3 6a  *

72.     Bracken Crack 7m HVS 5a

Right Hand Buttress

The next buttress, which is 15m to the right, has an arête and curving scoop right of an obvious chimney.

73.     Cut and Dried 10m E1 5b  *

74.     White Rock 10m VS 5a

75.     The Lurcher 8m E2 5b  *

76.     Country Downfall 7m D

The crack on the left and channels on the right have also been climbed at Severe.

77.     The Hyena 10m E1 5b  *

78.     New Kids on the Rock 10m E3 6a

79.     The Thoroughbred 10m E3 5c ***

80.     Horse Play 6m E3 5c

Right Hand Boulders

The right hand end of the crag is the best warm up or down area it is also furthest to walk to so a warm down may be more appropriate it still contains some testing classics like Softly Softly and Happy Slapping so make sure you’ve got enough left by the time you get along to it. The first problem is H8.

81.     H8   V4 6b   Font 6b

Ever wanted to know what it was like to mantle an elephants arse with acne? Didn’t think so, but here’s one in stone

Ripped Bloc

82.     Binary Choice   V3 6a   Font 6a

An arête in each hand and a heart in your mouth.

83.     Softly Softly   V6 6b   Font 7a

How's them Knees? Crux at top 4m up, truly inspirational walking up a very steep slope.

84.     The Soft Touch   V8 6c   Font 7b/+

Project, slopey landing but looks like lush slopers, might want to save this one for a cold day.

Cloud Bloc

85.     Dramamine   V2 5c   Font 5+

The left hand.

86.     In the Clouds   V1 5b   Font 5

Pocketed wall to flake finish

87.     Coming Down   V2 5c   Font 5+

Next line.

88.     Surfing on a Rock   V2 5c   Font 5+

The blunt arête via a choice of pockets

Spring Bloc   

Nice boulder with its own water supply if your wondering why no lines out the obvious roof have been done yet it’s because none of the would be ascentionists had their diving gear or fancied a big brown bath.

South Face

89.     Groove is in the Heart   V3 6a   Font 6a

SS. Just the crack for hands.

90.     Reid Link   V3 6a   Font 6a

Groove to big undercut and top.

91.     Spring Healer   V4 6b   Font 6b

SS. Big span from pocket to chicken head and up.

92.     Tonic   V3 6a   Font 6a

93.     Vittel Movement   V4 6b   Font 6b

From pockets pop to sloper and straight up to more pockets

94.     Golf War V5 6b   Font 6c+

SS. Take the golf ball prow direct, pick a pocket n’ pull down.

East Face

95.     Microbo   V2 5c   Font 5

96.     Blue Calx   V3 6a   Font 6a

97.     Petit mais bôn bôn   V3 6a   Font 6a+

SS.

The Wall

The Callerhues challenge (one of many) walk up the mini slab without use of you hands, there are a few more of these slabs lurking between blocs see if you can find them and walk them, they’re good for a laugh when the arms have wilted.

98.     Ascendance of decadence   V2 5c   Font 5+:

SS.

99.     Retrospective Phonomenation   V2 5c   Font 5+:

100.  Dot to Dot   V2 5c   Font 5+

SS.

101.  Fone Call   V4 6b   Font 6b

Straight up over the bulge.

102.  Along the Wall  V3 6a    Font 6a

Up and along will be good when clean.

Back Alley Bloc

The Dark side of Callerhues, however small, has a fantastic problem on it just don’t loiter too long or you’ll be moved on

103.  Happy Slapping   Font 7a

SS. Take the sloping ramp to the chicken heads then top. (Standing Font 6a+)

104.  Daisy Chained   V2 5c   Font 5+

The arête direct.

Round the corner 7m to the right of daisy chained is a micro rounded prow that is worthwhile doing it is:

105.  Pot Belly   V3 6a   Font 6a

SS.

Sun Bloc

106.  Tanned Gents   V1 5b   Font 5

SS.

107.  Crush n Burn   V2 5c   Font 5+

SS.

108.  Pasty Face   V1 5b   Font 5

109.  O Zone   V2 5c   Font 5+

110.  Factor 30 (SD)   V6 6b   Font 7a

SS. No crack, high burn potential

111.  Factor 15   V4 6b   Font 6b

Start up the crack then slopers then pockets then seam then glory.

SS.

112.  Factor 8   V4 6b   Font 6b

No top.

Chopping Bloc

113.  Cal’s Wall   V3 6a   Font 6a

Straight up the wall.

114.  Tyres on Fire   V3 6a   Font 6a

Up the rounded arête.

Last Bloccage

115.  Heathen   V3 6a   Font 6a

SS.

116.  Imagination   V7 6c   Font 7a+

SS. Use it and pull on the holds, one move but a good one. Start off pocket and micro flake.

117.  Blazing Beat   V5 6b   Font 6c

SS. None of the blocks for feet

118.  Dregs   VB 4c   Font 4

SS. The last problem of the crag and last on the ticklist.

Above photos taken from Callerhues Bouldering; A draft guide by Dan Varian

FIRST ASCENTS: