O.S. Sheet 94
Map Reference NZ702044
Aspect West
Altitude 320m
Approach time 15 minutes
Situation and Character
This small outcrop of good quality and generally clean sandstone lies at the head of Danby Dale above Botton village. The rocks enjoy any sun from late morning until sunset making it an ideal venue for a summers evening. The crag can also be conveniently combined with a morning visit to the nearby east facing Clemitts crag, this should provide sufficient good climbs to satisfy most parties for a full day.
History
The first reported climbs were made by Dave Purvis and party during 1959. Purvis climbed Original Route and Scoop Edge, he also made a determined but unsuccessful attempted on what was later to become the classic Cling Wrap. The rocks were re-discovered by Chris Woodall and Stewart Patterson in 1976 but their exploits were not recorded. In 1979 a strong team including Nick Dixon, Dave Paul and Kelvin Neal focused their efforts on developing the crag. The team added Waves Within, Cling Wrap, Ace of Winds, Tempest and several other fine routes. News of “Crag X” reached the ears of Paul Ingham and Tony Marr who visited the crag a few days later repeating all the existing routes and then added the Mad Axeman and Flakey Wall. Despite the crags popularity no further new climbs were reported for another thirteen years until Steve Finlay solved the superb but difficult Direct Finish to Cling Wrap. Finally, a number of short climbs/easy boulder problems have been claimed on the small buttresses that adjoin the main crag, but these have not been recorded here.
Access and Approaches
Follow the main Eskdale road east (towards Danby) out of Castleton. 200m outside the village just over a small bridge turn right to Ainthorpe. From Ainthorpe take the road signed to Little Fryup Dale. At the head of the Dale the road bends left into Great Fryup Dale, take the minor road on the right, labelled “Unsuitable for Motors.” The road climbs steeply out of the valley and on to the moor. Follow this road for about 1mile to a gentle left-hand bend with a convenient grassy area. Park here, marked as Wolf Pit on the OS map. Follow the bridleway north west and the escarpment will soon come into view overlooking Botton Hall.
The Climbs
The main crag comprises three main buttresses with a smaller buttress, Far Right Buttress, situated about 15m to the right of the main rocks. The Left-hand and Main Buttress is separated by a 1m wide descent gully/chimney.
The climbs are described from left to right.
Left-hand Buttress
The Left-hand buttress has an obvious flake running up the centre, this is the line of Cling Wrap. The first route tackles the left edge.
1. Original Route 6m S
Start just right of the left edge, broken ledges lead to the slab above.
Dave Purvis and party 1959. The “party” comprised ten enthusiastic teenagers [girls and boys], who used the Youth Hostel at nearby Westerdale as their weekend base, and from it they systematically explored all the outcrops and quarries in the area producing some excellent climbs.
2. F. All 7m HVS 5a
Climb the blunt rib, left of the obvious central flake of Cling Wrap.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr June 1979.
3. Cling Wrap 7m HVS 5b *
The central flake is reached with difficulty from the right. The normal finish is on the right. Excellent climbing.
Direct Finish: Delicate and bold. E1 5c *.
Cling Wrap Ordinary: Nick Dixon, Graeme Buckley 1979.
Direct Finish: Steve Finlay June 1992 .
4. Mad Axeman 7m HVS 5b
Balancy moves lead straight up the bulge right of Cling Wrap.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr and Nick Dixon 1979.
5. Scoop Wall 4m S
Gain the ledge and continue up the scoop above.
Graeme Buckley, Nick Dixon 1979.
6. Scoop Edge 4m MS 4a
Layback up the right edge of the Scoop.
Dave Purvis and party 1959.
7. Descent 4m Easy
The 1m wide chimney/gully.
Main Buttress
This is the impressive central buttress.
8. Tempest 7m VS 5a
Climb the left edge of the main buttress with long reaches on good holds.
Kelvin Neal, Alan Moss 1979.
9. Jester 7m HVS 5b
The obvious green groove is better than it looks.
Alan Moss, Kelvin Neal 1979.
10. Ace of Winds 9m HVS 5b **
In the centre of the buttress is a thin flake-crack. Climb this and the wall above; continue through the roof passing some hollow blocks with care. Superb climbing.
Nick Dixon, Graeme Buckley 1979.
11. Waves Within 9m E3 6a *
The wall right of Ace of Winds. Start just right of a flake. Climb the wall past a ledge, moving up using a pocket. Finish via a crack in the overhang.
Steve Brown, Dave Paul 1979.
12. Deceptive Benders 15m HVS 5a
A girdle of the main buttress. Start by climbing Tempest to the move below the top. Traverse right crossing Ace of Winds, continue to the final crack of Waves Within to finish.
Nick Dixon, Andy Luxmore 1979.
13. Ordinary Route 10m VS 4c
5m right of Ace of Winds are two cracks. Climb the right hand crack to a ledge; continue up the slab on the left to finish.
Nick Dixon, Graeme Buckley 1979.
About 10m right, past a small holly is...
Right Hand Buttress
The next three routes are based on two ribs and the right hand arête.
14. Flakey Wall 7m HVS 5b
Climb the bulge on the left hand side of the buttress; continue up the rib on small flakes.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr 1979.
15. Pickpocket 7m HVS 5c **
Climb the faint rib up the centre of the wall. Pockets may lead to better holds.
Alan Moss, Nick Dixon, Kelvin Neal 1979.
16. Allain’s Arête 5m HVS 5b
The arête just right of pickpocket is followed throughout.
Alan Moss 1979.
Far Right Buttress
About 15m further right again is a small buttress split by a prominent easy chimney.
17. Lost Cause 4m S
The flake/groove left of the arête.
Dave Paul, Steve Brown 1979.
18. Lost Crack 5m VS 4c
Climb the thin crack and groove.
Paul Ingham, Tony Marr 1979.
19. Lost Wall 5m HVS 5b
The wall right of Lost Crack.
Tony Marr, Paul Ingham 1979.
20. Lost Groove 5m VD
The groove just left of the chimney.
Tony Marr 1979.
Easy Chimney
21. Hookey 5m VS 5a
To the right of the easy chimney. Climb the left hand wall via a break and a pocket.
Steve Brown 1979.
22. The Good ‘Un 4m VS 5a
The wall just left of The Arch via one good pocket.
1979.
23. The Arch 5m VS 5a
Climb the arch in the centre of the wall.
Tony Marr 1979.
24. Silly Arête 4m S 4a
Climb past the left side of the ledge and up.
1979.
25. Who Nose 4m VS 4b
Wild laybacking up the arête.
1979.
Full details in the
North East England Guide