O.S. Sheet 93
Map
Reference
NZ517025
Aspect
North West
Altitude
350m
Approach
Time 25 minutes
Author
Frank Fitzgerald -11th November 1998
Situation and Character
The
sandstone buttresses forming the crags lie west of and below the Cleveland Way
path over Carlton Bank on about the 350-metre contour. The rocks command superb
views, catch the afternoon sun and because of their isolation and the steepness
of the ground below, the climbs feel quite exposed. It is a lovely place late on
a summer’s day.
History
There
is no known record of climbing here prior to 1998. In June of that year Frank
Fitzgerald visited the crags, noted the possibilities, and returned with Tony
Marr the following month.
Access and Approaches
The
rocks are best approached from Lord Stones cafe where there is both refreshment
and car parking. Some 200 yards after the trig. point on top of the Bank drop
down to the right through old quarry workings, and the flat top of number one
buttress soon comes into view.
The Climbs
The
climbs, which are six to seven metres high, are on three buttresses. Rowan
Buttress is the farthest left and has a lower tier below a wide terrace from
which the Rowan tree grows. Holly buttress is the least steep and most broken
and Number One buttress is the furthest right and the first to be reached in the
approach described.
Rowan Buttress
1. Updraft VS 4b
Start
on the terrace at the left corner and moving slightly right climb the steep slab
to the top.
Tony Marr, Frank Fitzgerald. 10 July 1998.
2. Lincoln Crack VD
Climb
the green crack to the right using good holds
Tony Marr, Frank Fitzgerald. 10th July 1998
3. Cakewalk M
Climb
by easy ledges to the right of the projecting slab; step onto it and round the
nose then up easy rock to the finish.
Frank Fitzgerald solo 3rd July 1998.
4. Shortcake D
Climb
to the right side of the slab as before then ascend direct the crack above.
Frank Fitzgerald, Tony Marr 3rd July 1998.
Lower Tier
5. Longfellow HVS 5b
Ascend
the centre of the leaning buttress by a shallow groove.
Tony
Marr, with Mike Tooke and Pam and Pete Shawcross, September 1998.
6. Right Edge HS 4b
Climb
the blunt right edge of the buttress.
Tony
Marr , with Mike Tooke and Pam and Pete Shawcross. September 1998.
Holly Buttress
7. The Spine D
Follow
the rib easily on its right side after an awkward start.
FA.
Frank Fitzgerald, solo 10th July 1998.
8. Holly Wall D
Climb
the wall left of the next climb on easily spaced holds.
Frank Fitzgerald with Pam Shawcross, September 1998.
9. Tiggywinkle VD
Starts
right of the last climb, very close to the holly bush and ascends the wall via a
strenuous pull.
Frank Fitzgerald , Tony Marr September 1998
Number One Buttress
10. Windrush S
Start
right of the corner. Climb steeply
up and left to an exposed finish on the corner.
Tony
Marr, Frank Fitzgerald
3rd July 1998.
11. Primitive VS 4c
Climb direct up the wall on the left hand side of the right hand arête.
Tony
Marr, Frank Fitzgerald , with Mike Tooke and Pam and Pete Shawcross, September
1998.
Full details in the
North East England Guide