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Carlton Bank

O.S. Sheet 93     

Map Reference   NZ517025

Aspect                   North West

Altitude                 350m

Approach Time   25 minutes

Author                   Frank Fitzgerald -11th November 1998

 

 

Situation and Character

The sandstone buttresses forming the crags lie west of and below the Cleveland Way path over Carlton Bank on about the 350-metre contour. The rocks command superb views, catch the afternoon sun and because of their isolation and the steepness of the ground below, the climbs feel quite exposed. It is a lovely place late on a summer’s day.

 

History

There is no known record of climbing here prior to 1998. In June of that year Frank Fitzgerald visited the crags, noted the possibilities, and returned with Tony Marr the following month.

 

Access and Approaches

The rocks are best approached from Lord Stones cafe where there is both refreshment and car parking. Some 200 yards after the trig. point on top of the Bank drop down to the right through old quarry workings, and the flat top of number one buttress soon comes into view.

 

The Climbs

The climbs, which are six to seven metres high, are on three buttresses. Rowan Buttress is the farthest left and has a lower tier below a wide terrace from which the Rowan tree grows. Holly buttress is the least steep and most broken and Number One buttress is the furthest right and the first to be reached in the approach described.

 

Rowan Buttress

 

1. Updraft   VS 4b

Start on the terrace at the left corner and moving slightly right climb the steep slab to the top.

Tony Marr, Frank Fitzgerald. 10 July 1998.

 

2. Lincoln Crack   VD

Climb the green crack to the right using good holds

Tony Marr, Frank Fitzgerald. 10th July 1998

 

3. Cakewalk   M

Climb by easy ledges to the right of the projecting slab; step onto it and round the nose then up easy rock to the finish.

Frank Fitzgerald solo 3rd July 1998.

 

4. Shortcake   D

Climb to the right side of the slab as before then ascend direct the crack above.

Frank Fitzgerald, Tony Marr 3rd July 1998.

 

Lower Tier

 

5. Longfellow   HVS 5b

Ascend the centre of the leaning buttress by a shallow groove.

Tony Marr, with Mike Tooke and Pam and Pete Shawcross, September 1998.

 

6. Right Edge   HS 4b

Climb the blunt right edge of the buttress.

Tony Marr , with Mike Tooke and Pam and Pete Shawcross. September 1998.

 

Holly Buttress

 

7. The Spine   D

Follow the rib easily on its right side after an awkward start.

FA. Frank Fitzgerald, solo 10th July 1998.

 

8. Holly Wall   D

Climb the wall left of the next climb on easily spaced holds.

Frank Fitzgerald  with Pam Shawcross, September 1998.

 

9. Tiggywinkle   VD

Starts right of the last climb, very close to the holly bush and ascends the wall via a strenuous pull.

 Frank Fitzgerald , Tony Marr September 1998

 

 

Number One Buttress

 

10. Windrush   S

 Start right of the corner.  Climb steeply up and left to an exposed finish on the corner.

Tony Marr, Frank Fitzgerald  3rd July 1998.

 

11. Primitive   VS 4c

Climb direct up the wall on the left hand side of the right hand arête.

 Tony Marr, Frank Fitzgerald , with Mike Tooke and Pam and Pete Shawcross, September 1998.

 

 

Full details in the

North East England Guide