O.S. Sheet 94
Map Reference NZ682057
Aspect West
Altitude 280m
Approach time 2 minutes
Author Neil Thompson
Situation and Character
The climbing is in a quarry.
History
Nick Dixon and party are known to have visited the Quarry
in the 1980s however these names and descriptions were provided by Neil Thompson
in 1993.
Access and Approaches
Head south from Castleton on the
Hutton le Hole road. Take the second right turn just past the village towards
Westerdale. Follow the road as it bends left and follow for a little under
a mile. The crag is on the road which runs parallel to the Blakey road.
The Climbs
They reach a height of about 7m. The climbs are described from right to left.
1. Route One VD
The
arête at the right end of the buttress.
2. The Face 6a
The
face immediately left. Start where the overlap low down meets the ground. Climb
direct via a shallow slot.
3. VS 4b
Start
just left of the Face where a diagonal crack meets the ground.
Climb up bearing slightly right.
Luke Hunt 20.7.02
30m left is a
leaning tower with a groove running from top to bottom.
This groove is the line of Splintered Tower.
4. Heather Wall V Diff
Start
1.5m right of the groove of Splintered Tower.
Climb the wall to the ledge, then climb the crack and arête just right
of the final groove of Splintered Tower.
Luke
Hunt 20.7.02
5.
Splintered Tower VD
From the recess at the bottom
climb over a large wedged block. Step left and climb the groove.
6. Senior’s Ridge Moderate.
To the left of Splintered Tower is a ridge.
Climb this without deviation.
M Hunt 25.7.02
20m left is
an arête with an undercut bottom. This
is the line of Scrambled Egg.
7.
Scrambled Egg. VS 5a
Climb the arête without stepping off to the right.
Luke Hunt 20.7.02
5m left of
Scrambled Egg is a red slab.
8.
Red Slab Arête HS 4b
Climb
the arête on the left of the slab. Balancy.
Luke Hunt 20.7.02
20m left is a
larger shield of rock.
9. The Slab HS 4b
Three metres right of the lowest point of the slab. Climb trending right
then left following flaky holds until it is possible to climb for the top.
10. Green Streak VS 5a
Start
just right of the lowest point of the buttress.
Climb to the ledge at 2m and ascend the buttress direct for a long reach
to a hold at the top of the green streak. Finish up the centre of the buttress.
Luke Hunt 20.7.02
11. The Crack Severe
Climb the crack running from the lowest point of the buttress.
12. Eraser HS 4b
2m
left of the crack is a faint line of flaky holds.
Climb this without deviation
Luke Hunt 25.7.02
13.
Yellow Streak Severe
4m
left of Eraser is a yellow streak at the left end of the slab.
Climb the yellow streak for 2m and step left onto a narrow slab, which is
climbed on its left.
Luke Hunt 30.7.02
14.
The Narrow Slab HS 4b
1.5m
left of the Yellow Streak is a short, triangular slab. Climb the center of this.
Left of The
Narrow slab is another slab bounded on its left by a fine arête.
Immediately right of the arête is the line of The Overlap.
15.
Short Slab Severe
Climbs the right side of the slab, 1.5m right of The Overlap.
M Hunt and L Hunt 25.7.02
16.
The Overlap Severe
Climbs the slab immediately right of the arête surmounting the overlap.
17. The Arête VD
The
arête bounding the left hand side of the thin slab is climbed on its left hand
side starting from the lowest point of the buttress about 1.5m left of the arête.
18.
Sentry Box Crack HS 4b
Left
of the arête is a “sentry box” at ground level.
Climb out of the right hand side of the sentry box and ascend the thin
crack above.
Luke Hunt 30.7.02
19. Groovey Severe 4a
Climb out of the left side of the sentry box and the flake crack above.
Luke Hunt 30.7.02
20.
Hole In The Wall Severe 4a
Start
immediately left of the previous route. Climb
the slab to the “hole in the wall”. From
the hole ascend directly between the two flake cracks.
Luke Hunt 30.7.02
21.
Face Route 5a
Climbs
the face immediately left of Hole in the Wall without using the crack on the
left.
Luke Hunt 30.7.02
Climbing at Castleton Rigg Quarry