OS Sheet 99
NGR SE 073841 see map here
Approach 10/15 mins?
Aspect North and South
Situation and Character
Caygill Scar is situated just outside West Scrafton in Coverdale south of Middleham. The crags of the scar line both sides of a gorge for about 100 metres and reach 15 metres in height. The described climbs predominantly follow steep natural crack-lines with good protection and ample tree belays. The crag stays generally dry in summer sheltered by the overhanging trees but does have a greenish, lichenous appearance.
History
The majority of the climbs here were recorded by John Dale and Tony and Gareth Harrison of the Cleveland Mountaineering Club in 1992 whilst 40,000½ was added by Athel Lawton.
Approach and Access
Park cars on the roadside verge outside West Scrafton and walk through the village to the footpath following the stream down towards Carlton. After 500 metres go down under a bridge and follow the normally dry stream bed for a further 100 metres to a short scramble down to the foot of the crag.
The Climbs
The climbs are described from right to left starting with the South Crag, on the true left side of the gorge. 50 metres below the access scramble a large square prow juts out into the stream bed The first climb starts at the highest cave to the right of this prow.
South Crag
1 High Enough 12m MVD
Above the square cut cave is a crack which widens to a chimney. Climb this line directly.
2 Melancholia 14m VD
Just to the left is a small inverted V shaped cave Climb the crack above this to a large ledge. Ascend the corner and exit through the tree.
3 Higher than Most 16m HS
Climb the crack on the left of the lowest cave. Traverse right and ascend a steep groove to a ledge. Finish up a flake crack.
4 Conundra Wall 15m MVS
4b Climb cracks on the front of the buttress and the wall above to a large ledge. From the left end of this climb the wall to the top.
5 Conundra Groove 14m VS *
4c Step up and climb the overhanging finger-crack. Move slightly right and climb grooves to the top.
6 Manspride 14m E2
5c Start up the rib to the right of the cave entrance. Move right into a hanging corner and climb it to a move left and then up the wall to the base of a hanging crack. Climb this to the top. (2 peg runners were used but then removed!)
The crack 2 metres to the left has been top-roped but not led. Four metres further left is,
7 Seal Travers 17m HVS
5a Start at a thin crack and climb it to an overlap. Hand traverse left to a bulge and climb the wall and crack above this to a groove at the left end of the overhangs. Up this to finish.
8 The Psychic Psquirrel 14m HVS
5a Start directly below the left end of the overhangs at the top of the wall . Climb a crack to an overhung niche and move up and left across the wall two good holds. Make a long reach to the break and hand-traverse right to the base of the crack. Finish up Seal Travers.
9 Warple Corner 12m HS
Climb the obvious corner crack to the overhang which is surmounted on the left by layback.
The North Crag
The first route is immediately to the left of the access climb down to the cliffs.
10 Totters Chimney 10m D
Climb to a large ledge and then up the chimney on the left.
11 Severe Moss Lassitude 10m MS
Climb the left side of the cave (Tom Hunters Parlour - 73m long!) and finish up the mossy wall on the right.
12 40,000½ 10m VD
Climb the next crack to the left, exiting left of the tree.
13 Yogistan 10m MVS
4b The corner crack.
14 Pong 10m MS
Climb the next crack to the left, to a tree. Finish up a slab on the right.
15 Stunk 10m VS
4c The next crack to the left with a pod near the top which forms the crux.
16 Rum Doodle 10m MVS
4b Up the left crack, using both cracks above, to finish left of the perched blocks.
A wall and overhanging crack on the left has been top-roped but not led -5b. The face now degenerates until after a descent gully, it continues as a steep wall reaching 15 metres in height.
17 Lurking Suspicion 10m MVS
4b Two metres left of the descent gully is a shallow groove. Climb this for 4 metres , move left and pull over the overhang. Ascend a short crack and scramble up to the large sycamore trees.
18 Wish’s Wanderings 13m VD **
Climb a deep groove 2 metres further left. To a large overhang. Traverse left and climb the groove above, moving left at a second overhang.
19 Tum Teedle 14m VS
4c Start 6 metres to the left of Wish’s Wanderings, up a thin crack to the left of an overhung rib. Continue up the cracked wall to a tree root runner. Finish up to the left of the large tree.
20 Ailing’s Amble 15m HS Layback the obvious flake crack just left of Tum Teedle to a hand traverse left into a shallow corner. Climb the corner and finish straight up by an awkward rib.
21 Jungle’s Journey 15m VD *
A steep climb on big jugs! Climb the groove to the right of the cave, for a few feet. Step right to the rib and up past a tree to a ledge. Traverse left for 2 metres then up the cracks to the top.
22 The Atrocious Snowman 14m HS
4b Climb the right corner of the square cut alcove (which has a low cave at its foot). At the wide crack move across to the arete on the right and climb the stepped wall above to an obvious crack which is ascended to an atrocious finish.
23 Bung Ho! 16m HVS ***
5a The classic of the crag. Start up Atrocious Snowman but then move left across the alcove to attack the overhang at its weakest point. Make a hard move up the wall above and move left into a groove. Finish up the left wall.
24 Bohees Two And A Half 16m MVS **
4b Another excellent route. A few feet left of the alcove is a shallow groove. Climb this and continue straight up to the overhang which is surmounted using either or both of the cracks.
25 Bohees Five 18m S
Climb the previous route for 8 metres and then left to a vegetated finish up ledges and a corner crack.