OS Sheet: 93
Map Reference: NZ589107
Aspect: West
Altitude:
Approach Time: 5 minutes
About 100m west of the cattle grid on the south side of the road is a gate. Go through the gate and then follow the track that takes a rising contour south and the quarry will be reached in a few minutes. All the recorded climbing is to the left (north) of the small pond. The best line, Morning Wall, starts in a small corner about 20m left of the pond. Further left is the uninviting chimney/crack of Sooty and Sweep. All the descriptions and gradings at Cockshaw Hill are those of the first ascentionists.
The climbs are described from left to right.
1. Honey Pot 8m D
The wall left of the chimney passing a bush.
2. Sooty and Sweep 8m D
Climb the prominent chimney.
3. Paralysis 10m HVS 5b
Climb the edge of the wall right of the chimney, Pull round the bulge and continue more easily to the top.
4. New Day 10m HVS 5b
Start as for Paralysis, trend right to finish up Morning Wall.
5. X Offender 8m E2 5c
Climb the left side of the wall, left of Primary Contact.
6. Primary Contact 8m E2 5c
The wall left of Morning Wall, is climbed in its centre to finish up a difficult scoop on the right.
7. Morning Wall 10m E2 5c
Starts in the small corner about 20m left of the pond. Climb the steep crack line and leave it by a difficult move to the right near the top. Stake belay. The Left Hand Finish is HVS 5a.
8. The Boys are Back in Town 10m E1 5b
Tackles the wall right of Morning Wall.
9. Mind Release 10m E2 6a
The wall right of The Boys is climbed to finish up a corner.
10. Cut and Run 8m E1 5c
From the right side of the wall jump for a hold below the break, pull round the overhang and step right to finish.
11. Mercury 8m HVS 5b
Reach the break right of Cut and Run, climb the bulge and follow holds left and up.
12. Moving South 7m HVS 5a
The wall right of Mercury.
13. Book Stress 6m S
The wall right of Moving South.
To the right is broken rock and an easy descent ramp. To the right again is the pond.
14. Divers’ Corner 14m MS
Start at the left side of the pond and gain horizontal ledges leading rightwards. Follow these to below a square cut corner. Climb this.
15. Cries in the Air 10m HVS 5a
Climb the black slab above Divers’ Corner trending right.
16. The Problem Traverse Ungradeable
A low level- traverse starting at Sooty and Sweep and traversing rightwards to finish just before pond. The crux is surviving the fragile holds after Morning Wall.