OS Landranger Sheet: 92
Aspect: South
Altitude: 306m
Approach Time: 2 minutes
High Buttress, Crag Hill
History
Although there were signs of earlier activity, the first records of climbing on Crag Hill was by Steve Crowe, Karin Magog and Bob Bennett during 1996. Further consolidation took place with a visit on 30 November 1996 when Andrew & John Earl, Tommy Smith, Michael and Mark Thomas returned with Karin Magog and Steve Crowe.
Situation and Character
This small and accessible south-facing crag overlooks Deepdale and can be clearly seen just east of the minor road when travelling from Bowes to Cotherstone. Although the routes are short the landings are generally good and the crag is a useful evening venue.
Access and Approaches
Driving from Bowes towards Cotherstone the boulders will soon be seen on the right. Park in a lay-by on the right, just north of the red metal gate.
The farmer & his son has agreed to lift the ban
on climbing on the following basis;
A 12 month trial period. (from August 2006)
No climbing between January & April inclusive [lambing period].
No groups under instruction.
Do not phone the farmer.
Remove all litter.
Strictly No Dogs.
Access only via bridleway at map reference
NY993162 & then through gate with sign on in new fence.
"I have spoken to the farmer & he has agreed to
extend access for another year as there have been no incidents.
However he still wishes to review the access agreement every year." Peter Hay
BMC access officer 24 September 2007
From the gate the first rocks reached are small and form a tip for agricultural rubbish. Heading for the next boulders the faint path leads above The Roadside Boulder.
The Climbs
The climbs are described from left to right.
Roadside Boulder
The three arêtes on this boulder all prove interesting.
1. VB 4b
The wall left of the first impressive arête.
2. First Arête V3 6a ***
Interesting moves follow the left arête through out. The sitting start is also V3 6a.
3. V2 5c **
The line of pockets just right of the arête should lead to the short flake and then the top.
To the right is a smooth slab...
4. Impossible Slab V3 6a *
Smear and slap on to the slab about 1m left of the crack.
5. VB 4b
The right most edge of the slab, without bridging beyond the crack.
6. VD
Climb the corner crack.
7. Central Arête V3 6a **
Start up the central arête, then move right at half height to gain a good ledge and then the top.
8. V2 5c *
The centre of the wall moving slightly right to finish.
9. Third Arête VB 4c *
The third arête provides a series of mantelshelf moves.
10. Severe
Layback the corner crack.
11. Easy
The wall to the right.
About 50m are some short walls containing some easier bouldering...
Short Walls
Square Roof V0 5a
Sit start under the roof at the far left of the buttress and lunge for the arête.
Mark Buxton
26/6/07
Pointed Roof V0- 4c
Sit start just to the right of the next scrappy corner. Finish via a crimp on the overlapping arête.
Mark Buxton
26/6/07
Heather Band V0- 4c
Sit start at the wall to the right and follow the line of a blind flake to a dyno past the heather band.
Mark Buxton
15/6/08
Stepped Roof V0 5a
Over the juggy stepped roof near the broken corner to the right.
Mark Buxton
26/6/07
Midget Arête V0- 4c
Sit start up the next small arête.
Mark Buxton
26/6/07
Scoop V0- 4c
Sit start on small boulder. Mantel into the
scoop/corner to the right of the previous ar
Mark Buxton
15/6/08
Layback Corner V0- 4c
Sit start. The small corner to the right.
Mark Buxton
26/6/07
Curved Flake V0 5a
Sit start with hands in the large break. Up via the curved, blind flake right of Layback Corner.
Mark Buxton
15/6/08
Heather Corner V0- 4c
Sit start. Layback the scrappy corner to the right.
Mark Buxton
26/6/07
Short Wall Dyno V0 5a
Right of Heather Corner are two low breaks. Sit start with hands in the upper break. Dyno for the top.
Mark Buxton
15/6/08
High Buttress
This is the highest buttress and the rock is impeccable.
12. V0 5a
A left to right traverse finish up the right hand wall.
13. VB 4b
The crack.
14. V0 5a
The arête without using the crack to the left. The sitting start is a good test at 6a.
15. V1 5b **
The corner/flake to the ledge, then the small flake to the top. Sitting start is 5b.
16. V3 6a
From a sitting start climb the wall immediately right of the corner on slopers to the ledge.
17. V6 6c*
From the poor sloper in the centre of the wall and tiny crimp for left hand to ledge.
18. V4 6b
Sitting start to sloper with LH continue slightly right to ledge.
19. V0 5a
The arête. A sitting start on thin flake/edge is 5b.
20. V3 6a
Low-level traverse on slopers from right to left.
21. V4 6b
A very low level traverse on slopers from right to left.
22. V1 5b
The wall just right of the arête via undercut pocket.
23. VB 4c
The crack in the wall.
23b Pancake Overhang V0 5a
Roofers Buttress
24. VB 4c
Start beneath the bulge/overlap and climb it direct.
25. Severe
The wall just left of the huge capping roof.
26. V3 6a *
Step off the boulder and tackle the hanging scoop. Serious.
27. V5 6b **
The hanging arête starting from the next boulder right.
28. V2 5c
From beneath the roof move left to gain and climb the hanging arête.
29. Severe
Across the central alcove and behind a small tree is a wall.
30. Sharp Arête V0 5a **
The sharp arête direct. The sitting start is 5c/6a.
31. V1 5b
Climb the centre of the roof to the right of the arête; pull over on a dubious flake.
"I think I've
just completed a new problem up at Crag Hill. It starts the same as problem 30
but once you reach the roof you traverse right and top out the same as problem
31. This overhanging traverse is about two metres in length and quite strenuous,
adding a new dimension to the climb. I was just wondering if it was significant
at all. I think it would be 5b, possibly 5c with a sitting start." Harry Roberts
September 2007.
A few metres further east is a broken buttress
Broken Buttress
32. V0 5a
The left arête in the back of the bay.
Scoop Buttress
33. V2 5c
The short arête on the next boulder. The sitting start is 6a.
34. V2 5c
The bulge between the arête and the scoop, step off the block.
35. Scooped Slab V1 5b
The easy looking scoop. The sitting start is 6c.
36. V2 5c
The slab immediately right of the scoop, start with undercut.
37. V4 6b
Low-level traverse on crimps below the roof to finish up the left arête.
On the East side of Scoop Buttress:
Trench Ar
About 100m east is an interesting arête (4c), on the right edge of a shattered buttress. Below Crag Hill Farm is an 8m high buttress with four good routes and a small cave at the top. The farmer has requested that climbers avoid this buttress.
Full details in the
North East England Guide