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(Strictly speaking it is High Shield Crag!)

Map Reference: NY765678
See NMC 2004 guide, page 100

History
Crag Lough was probably first discovered in 1907 by Marcus Beresford Heywood who recorded a number of routes in the Climbers Club Journal published in 1912. The article referred to five routes that are shown in a rather featureless diagram but from the descriptions it seems possible to identify what are now Hadrian's Chimney, Great Chimney and Main Wall. In the 1920’s there were further visits by the next generation of climbers and though no doubt much was climbed nothing was recorded at that time. In the 1940’s activity increased with a keen band of climbers including Basil Butcher, Keith Gregory and other members of what was to become the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club climbing many routes; by that time Pinnacle Face, Main Wall, Hadrian's Wall and Grad's Groove were receiving regular ascents. Impossible Buttress and Route I were led by Tony Moulam, the latter giving possibly the hardest move on the crag at that time. In the 1950’s the Crag Lough Club was formed and many harder routes were ascended including Crescent Crack, Y Climb, Why Not and Impossible Buttress Route III. Further exploration continued into the 1960’s but towards the end of that decade interest in the crag began to wane as increasing mobility among climbers brought the more distant sandstone outcrops into reach, resulting in many obscure and some worthwhile climbs returning to a vegetated state. The last routes of significance were added in the 1970's. Bob Hutchinson and John Earl made a rare diversion from the sandstone to free climb Smooth Bastion and rename it Whinstone Churchill, Jeff Lamb freed the previously aided Impossible Wall to produce the hardest route on the crag and Bob and Tommy Smith added the bold Stephenson's Rocket. Since the publication of the 1989 Guide Book only three new routes have been recorded and many of the existing routes have become heavily vegetated due to too few ascents. Despite this, the more popular lines are in good condition and Crag Lough has some of the longest and best quality Severe and Very Severe climbs in Northumberland.

Situation and Character
High Shield Crag is erroneously known among climbers as Crag Lough. The crag, which is dolerite and forms part of the Whin Sill, is impressively situated above the lough, which provides its name and is the largest and most extensive crag in the county. However, the northerly aspect and the smooth nature of the rock makes climbing here in the winter months a character building experience; the rock is virtually frictionless when wet, even when completely clean and this is certainly no all-weather crag. The rock is formed into large columns and many of the better routes follow definite natural lines. Some of the best routes are in the lower/middle grades and there are one or two classics, which bear comparison with the best outcrop routes anywhere. These are "proper" routes on splendid whin sill. This North facing crag is best enjoyed on summer evenings. Routes up to E4 are represented but some of the very best routes in Northumberland in the Diff-Severe range are to be found here and the adjacent Peel Crag. 

Approaches and Access
The crag lies about 1 kilometre north of the B6318 Newcastle Carlisle road (the Military Road). Cars can be parked at the Steel Rigg car park, which is reached by turning due north from the Military Road at the Once Brewed Youth Hostel. From the car park a clear pathway (right of way) leads beneath Peel Crag and Crag Lough is reached in about twenty minutes. The land is owned by the National Trust and camping is forbidden but there is a small farm campsite at Winshields Farm about 200 metres west of the Twice Brewed Inn. An alternative access route lies along the farm track leading to Hot Bank Farm until the Roman Wall is reached and followed west to the top of the crag. This approach is shorter but parking on the Military Road is limited, dangerous and probably illegal.

Crag Lough has not been mapped as CRoW access land. It is, though, on National Trust land and so will be shown as open country on the new Explorer map. Access rights and arrangements remain as described above.
 

Restrictions:

Protected Birds are nesting on Crag Lough.  It has been confirmed that there are Protected Birds nesting at Crag Lough this year. Climbers are requested to not walk east of the lake end and avoid all routes above the lake until after 21 June.
 

Mark Armitage climbing Hadrian's Buttress before the rockfall last year

FIRST ASCENTS:

Read more about Crag Lough and Peel Crag in Climber March 2005

Crag Lough Photodiagrams

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