Hadrian's Wall

Rock Climbing on Crag Lough and Peel Crag

by Karin Magog

Climbing in Northumberland – ball-bearing sandstone, bold and intimidating routes, under graded? Fancy a change? Well how about clean-cut Whinsill, comfortable cracks and positive edges, well protected, reasonably graded and with an abundance of low to mid grade routes? If that sounds tempting then Crag Lough and Peel could be the crags for you. Situated adjacent to Hadrian’s Wall at Once Brewed, in West Northumberland, they offer the highest concentration of quality easier routes in the County, with several three star D – VS climbs. Their accessibility and northerly aspect make them great summer evening venues, although their many fine west-facing walls means they enjoy the benefit of the sun from lunchtime onwards.


CRAG LOUGH
Although further from the car park, Crag Lough offers many superb routes in the lower grades. Add to that an idyllic setting above the  Lough and several west-facing walls and it’s well worth the 20 mins approach time. With over a hundred routes, many of which are up to 20m high, it is one of Northumberland’s largest crags. It was first discovered in 1907 by Marcus Beresford, who recorded a number of routes in the 1912 CC Journal, which included the excellent Main Wall. In the 1940’s Basil Butcher, Keith Gregory and other members of what was to become the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club, climbed many of the classics such as Pinnacle Face, Grad’s Groove and Hadrian’s Buttress. The 1950’s saw the formation of the Crag Lough Club and several of the harder routes were climbed including Crescent Crack and Y Climb. There was little further development until the 1970’s when Bob Hutchinson and John Earl freed Whinstone Churchill and then later that decade when the first free ascent of Impossible Wall fell to Jeff Lamb during a raiding trip from Cumberland.

RECOMMENDED ROUTES
 

PINNACLE FACE VS 4C
A well-positioned and popular climb, offering positive climbing on jams and good breaks, with plenty of good protection. The usual approach is to climb the corner behind the pinnacle to the sentry box, before pulling up and right onto the face. However, for the more adventurous amongst you, it is also possible to climb the pinnacle itself and step across or even to back and foot between the pinnacle and the face.

HADRIAN’S BUTTRESS'S
A very attractive climb which gets the sun from early afternoon. The route follows the eye-catching crack, which offers good gear and plenty of jams. Alternatively, just use the crack as a layback between the many positive breaks. The choice is yours!
 

TARZAN VD
One of the crags many great easier climbs, offering a good variety of climbing techniques as it works it’s way to the top of the buttress. The route starts by climbing the wall to the right of a deep chimney before stepping back left to a ledge below a deep cleft. This is followed to a strenuous pull onto a ledge, and then the gap between the wall and the pinnacle is climbed before finally moving out onto the wall and heading rightwards up this to finish.
 

CRYSTAL HVS 5A
An exposed and strenuous route. A tricky overhanging corner leads to the meat of the climb, a steep flake crack. Power up this to a good break before deciding whether to go for the delicate traverse right to finish up Y-climb or the more direct finish on small rounded holds! Well protected if you can hang around and a good range of medium to large cams and hexes could prove useful!

MAIN WALL S
A great route offering everything from wall climbing to chimneying, a classic of the crag. It starts with wall climbing before a difficult move using twin cracks leads to a good ledge on the arête. From here a groove is followed to a short chimney, which quickly leads to the finishing wall.
 

WHINSTONE CHURCHILL E2 5B
The crag’s most popular extreme climb, but no pushover. Fairly strenuous but with good protection, it starts up the corner on the right of the buttress. After moving right after the overhang it then heads back left where a long reach enables the upper groove to be gained. This is followed more easily to the top. The direct start at E3 5c is also well worth doing and is good value for the grade.
 

OTHER WORTHWHILE ROUTES

Bracket VD
Tarzan’s Mate VD
Jezebel D
Raven’s Tower MVS 4b
Crescent Cracks VS 5a
Y-Climb HVS 5a
Grad’s Groove MVS 4b
Impossible Wall E4 6b
Great Chimney S
Virtually every route on Dexter Buttress (D-E3 5c)
 

PEEL CRAG
At less than 10 mins from the car park, Peel is a good choice for a quick evening’s climbing. Although discovered at the same time as Crag Lough it was considered too broken to offer quality climbs and was much neglected until the formation of the Crag Lough Club in 1952. Albert Rosher was a key figure in the development of the crag, along with such climbers as Frank Carroll, Don Laws, Geoff Oliver, Nev Hannaby, Eric Rayson, Terry Sullivan and John Cheesmond. It was these climbers who during the 1950’s and 60’s climbed many of the classics such as Grooves, Certificate X, Overhanging Crack and Rock Island Line. In the 1970’s Bill Wayman freed Ritual, the crag’s hardest route.

RECOMMENDED ROUTES
 

SUNSET MS
The classic of the crag, which gets the sun from mid-afternoon. A tricky start leads to a fine corner, which offers quality climbing with holds and gear just where you need them. A brief respite on a good ledge can be enjoyed before moving up to the overhang and the exposed traverse left. A tricky pull onto the ledge then a couple more moves lead to the top. A high quality climb with good protection.

OVERHANGING CRACK MVS 4C
Interesting face climbing on small holds leads to a steep corner crack. This succumbs by jamming and bridging and fortunately eases towards the top.
 

ROCK ISLAND LINE E1 5B
The best of the E1’s, well protected but strenuous. The cracked lower wall is climbed mainly on positive edges where good technique and footwork pays dividends. Once the overhang is reached the character changes and a quick, powerful pull soon leads to the easier upper wall.
 

TIGER’S OVERHANG VS 4C
Very similar to the previous route but with thankfully bigger holds. The lower wall does enough to hold your interest and leads to a comfortable position below the roof. From here arrange plenty of gear before committing to the pull over onto the headwall - don’t forget to bridge. Now cruise to the top in style.


OTHER WORTHWHILE ROUTES

Grooves S 4b

Green Line E1 5b

Certificate X E1 5b

Ritual E4 6a

Pubs
The popular Twice Brewed Inn offers a warm welcome to walkers and climbers alike. Serving good food and many fine types of ale, this ancient coach house also provides accommodation.

Accommodation
There is an excellent Youth Hostel at Once Brewed. Camping, as well as B&B, is available a short walk westwards at Whinshields Farm.

Don’t forget to marvel at the wall itself, built many years ago by the Romans. There are also several Roman Forts in the area which are well worth a visit, with Housesteads being the most extensive.