|
HEALAUGH CRAG (Crag
Willas)
OS Sheet: 92
Map Reference:
NY974013
Aspect: South West Facing
Altitude: 530m
Approach Time: 20 minutes
Situation and Character
Perhaps the most
remote of all the venues covered in the guide but well worth a visit, this
collection of small buttresses and large boulders is situated in a quiet part of
the East Pennines at an altitude of over 500 metres. The rock is excellent
quality gritstone which has a classic rounded nature and many blind cracks.
This gives rise to "smear" problems on both delicate slabs and steep walls. The
situation is a suntrap in good weather and a superb quiet setting. A good place
to get away from the crowds! It is comfortable to climb here from late spring
to early autumn. From a bouldering/soloing viewpoint the landings are not
always good. Although most of the routes here have been soloed the use of a
rope can sometimes be prudent.
History
Dave Staton whose
routes during trips with the Youth Clubs of Darlington included those on Miners
Wall and Calver Face was the first record his activities in the early 1960’s.
Bruce Perry added routes to the West side of Luckystrike Buttress. Whilst
checking out the crag for the North of England Guide, Ron Kenyon climbed a
number of routes in 1978. In more recent times, Karl Lunt has climbed many of
the existing routes and added some of his own the best of these being On The
Level and Karl’s Arête. FRCC stalwart Ron Kenyon is Mr
Wobbly. Steve Crowe and Karin Magog added many in fill routes and problems
during the 1990’s some of which have no doubt been climbed before but not
previously recorded. Of particular note were the ascents of Glorious
Wealth the first route to tackle the awesomely steep west wall of the
Inclined Buttress and the impressive lead of Blood Red Streets
.
Access
Driving from the
South and East;
Head for Reeth in
Swaledale then on to the village of Healaugh before turning off right on a
minor, gated road, through Kearton to a T-junction. Turn right to the popular
picnic spot of Surrender Bridge where the road crosses Hard Level Gill. Park
here.
Driving from the
North;
Follow a minor
road, which leaves the A66 just south of Barnard Castle and is signposted to “Reeth".
Follow this road for about 8 Miles to a T-junction in the Arkengarthdale Valley.
Turn left, then after about half a mile turn right towards Kearton and Feetham
(signposted to "Low Row"). After about two miles a ford will be crossed.
Continue to the popular picnic spot of Surrender Bridge where the road crosses
Hard Level Gill. Park here.
Approaches
The Reeth Estates
request a phone call to gamekeeper, Paul Simpson on 01748 884 483 to check that
there is no shooting taking place prior to a visit. Please approach by the old
flue running up from the Old Gang Smelt Mills. The following approach as
described, although not the shortest, is the estates preferred route and anyway
may save time spent stumbling aimlessly across the heather clad moors. Park at
the popular picnic spot where Surrender Bridge crosses Hard Level Gill. A good
level track leads west from here above the north side of the river to reach the
old mining ruins at NGR 974005. At this point the ruins of an old flue (looking
like an old dry stone wall from a distance) runs directly up the hillside
northwards over a number of false summits! The crag is not visible until just
before the top of the hill. The flue squeezes between The Lumberjack Wall of
the Third Flue Buttress on the left, and The Magic Buttress on the right.
The Climbs
The climbs are
described from left to right. The old lead mine flue is an obvious reference
point. Left of the flue there is a large easy angled slabby boulder facing the
valley. In front of this is another immaculately placed wall also facing south,
which, as well as having some interesting problems it enjoys an excellent
landing (a rarity at Crag Willas) and makes an ideal changing area/lunch spot!
This is Friar's Wall. Behind Friar's Wall is a small boulder with a smooth
south-facing slab this is your warm up. (Some
200metres further up-valley (north-west) from the left most of the recorded
climbs lies a three metre high block, embedded into the hillside, at a similar
altitude to the Tilted Slab. It is identified by a small alcove at its
base. The approach from the Warm Up Circuit area is easy, being mostly
over burnt heather. See New Routes below for details).
The Rhombus
1.
The Rhombus VD
*
Easily up the
centre of the slab.
Friar's Wall
2.
Friardays 3m 5a
Climb, using the
left arête for the left hand.
The same arête on
the steeper left side from a sitting start is harder
(Deadlines 5b).
3.
Friarfold 3m 4b
Up the wall, one
metre right of the left arête.
Ron Kenyon 1978
4.
Fry Up 3m 5b
Takes the wall
three metres right of the left arête and just left of a vague flake line.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
5.
Friar Tuck 4m
5a *
Start 1m left of
the inscription “MC”. Climb the centre of the wall up a line of snappy (and
snapped) flakes.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
6.
Hush 4m 5c *
Start immediately
left of the initials “MC” Progress is made via a pointed left hand hold to gain
holds above a tiny undercut. Continue direct to the top.
7.
Ye Olde Friars
6m 5a **
Start from a small
ledge near the right arête and using a small circular pocket reach a flake set
above the carved inscription “MC” and so to the top.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
8.
Gangue Way 6m
4b
From the small
ledge just left of the right arête, climb the scoop above.
Karl Lunt
17 August 1991 Solo
9.
Gangue Way Direct
6m 5a
Gain the ledge
direct using right hand on the arête.
10.
Gable End 5m
4c **
Pleasant moves
directly up the right arête and on its right-hand side.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
11.
The Pig 4m 5b
The narrow fluted
wall right of Gable End is climbed near its right edge.
Karl Lunt 17 August
1991 Solo
12.
Low Level
Traverse 8m 5b
Start with right
hand on arête and gain the right edge of the
Gangue Way
ledge direct. A fingery and technical traverse leads left to finish up Friarfold.
The boulders in the
warm up area continue to be described in a clockwise direction. The next
boulder can be seen below Friars Wall as a short triangular shaped wall with the
inscription KD 1886 at the top of the north face. This is Inscribed Block. The
problems start on the larger south face, which is easily identified by a line of
three ancient drill holes. These problems are described from right to left.
Inscribed Block
13.
South East Side
4a
From the southeast
side climb the undercut rib and follow the grooved scoop to the top.
14.
Left Slanting
Gangway VD
Start 1m left of
S.E. Side and follow the left-slanting gangway to finish with a swing left.
15.
Rock Pocket 5a
From the pockets
(three in a row) rock on to the ledge on the right. Crimp the minute flake to
reach better holds above. The gangway on the right is within reach but it is
strictly out of bounds.
16.
South West Arête
5a *
Climb the SW Arête.
17.
The Runnels VD
The west wall
between the runnels
To the west is
Cartwheel Block with its southwest facing elliptical slab.
Cartwheel Block
18.
Right Hand Drive
VD *
Climb out of the
recess, at the right hand end of the block, and hand traverse a good ledge
leftwards to finish.
(couldn't find
anything that fitted the guidebook description! Unless the 'good ledge' is the
top of the block, in which case, Diff no stars)
19.
Four Horse Power
D *
Climb the slab just
right of the centre.
20.
Left Hand Drive D
Follow the arête,
rightwards, with your feet on the south face all the way.
The next boulder
left has a large west-facing slab. This is...
Tilted Slab
21.
South Face 4a
(left hand finish 4b *, right hand finish 4a)
Climb the steep
south face moving either left or right at the top.
22.
Full Tilt 4a *
Starting two metres
left at a right slanting crack, gain the tiny/small corner and move onto the
upper slab moving right to the top.
23.
Bitter Tongue
4a *
Start just right of
the layback flake of Slant. Move right on to the tongue and finish
direct.
24.
Slant
HD
Follow the layback
flake to the top.
The slab can be
climbed anyway quite easily.
25.
Tilted 5b *
Climb the undercut
NE face. Start with right hand in an obvious undercut/layaway.
Steve Crowe
26th February 1995
26.
What’s Your
Problem 5c *
From a sitting
start on two good crimps below the left edge of the undercut NE face, gain the
lip, rock over and finish up the short slab above.
Steve Crowe
About 7m behind
Tilted Slab is a boulder with a diamond shaped plaque on its south face. This
is Diamond Block.
Diamond Block
27.
Diamond Left MS
Start 1m left of
Diamond Face, moving left on undercuts to the top.
"Is this an eliminate? By
the time you're high enough to use the undercuts you can also reach the top, so
unless the top isn't allowed I don't know where this is meant to go!" Feedback
28.
Diamond Face
HVD
Climb the middle of
the plaque.
29.
Diamond Right
Mod
Start as for
Diamond Face. Move right then up easy groove back left.
Northeast of
Diamond Block a few metres is a huge boulder with an east facing low angled slab
and a steep west face. This is...
Low Angled Slab
Steep West Face
30.
Tired of Writing
5m 4a
Start at the
extreme left end of the undercut wall. Step off block left of the blunt rib
and climb the centre of the wall to the top.
31.
Helados 5m 4c
Step onto the
undercut left end of the wall and ascend the right side of the blunt rib above
with balancy moves.
Ron
Kenyon pre 1979
32.
King Kone 5m
5a *
Step off a boulder
in the middle of the pitted wall 2m right of the undercut rib and climb straight
up past a useful pocket to an awkward finish or, to save embarrassment, move
left to a good finishing hold and there by reducing the grade to 4c.
Ron
Kenyon pre 1979
33.
Mr Wobbly 5m 5a
Climb a shallow
groove, just left of the inscription J.T., to an awkward finish via a thin
crack.
Ron
Kenyon 26 August 1991
34.
On The Level 8m
5a **
Ascend the open
groove with the inscription J.T., and then make a rising leftwards traverse
using the obvious parallel breaks, which ease after passing the rib of
Helados.
Karl Lunt 17 August
1991 Solo
The area to the
northeast, behind the Low Angled Slab is...
The Alcove
Behind and on the
right of the easy angled slab is a chimney with a large flake set across the
top. This is the line of The Dares on You. To the left of the chimney is the
blunt rib of Mivvi.
35.
Mivvi 3m S
Climb the rib on
its left side to the ledge. The arête of the top block succumbs to a bold
layback.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
36.
The Dares On You
7m 5a *
Climb the chimney
and move right onto a ledge. The huge flake above and left has a slabby front.
Move back left onto the front of the slab then...(too late now you'll have to go
for it!) make a thin move to the top.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
37.
Gumby 5m 5b
Climb the front of
the block right of The Dares on You and follow the
curving arête above to the ledge. Awkward!
Ron
Kenyon 1978
38.
Bob's Problem
4m 4b
Start at a recessed
wall right of a boulder and crack. Climb the wall to the ledge then up the slab
above.
39.
Call me Al 4m
4c
A short climb split
by a large ledge! Climb the short arête, 2m right of Bob’s Problem,
on its left side to gain the large ledge. Continue more boldly up the short
wall above.
The right-hand side
of The Alcove has a, square-cut, block buttress with the large ledge of Call me
Al to its left.
40.
Bruce's Arête
5m 4b *
Climb a short scoop
to the large ledge then step right and climb the left arête on its right side.
Bruce
Perry (possibly Ron Kenyon 1978)
41.
Don't Panic 7m
4c
Climb the face
right of Bruce's Arête without using either arête as a handhold.
42.
Bob's Arête 4m
VD
Climb the right
arête of the block buttress, without using the blocks immediately to the right.
A few metres east
of The Alcove is a small boulder with an overhanging east face.
This is the Tranquillity Boulder.
Tranquillity Boulder
43.
Breeze 4m D
Traverse of the west face of the
Tranquillity Boulder.
44.
Tranquillity 4m
4c
Hand traverse the
overhanging face of the boulder.
A few metres
further right and immediately left of the flue are a line of three small
buttresses that almost merge into one, the Flue buttresses. The Lumberjack Face
of the Third Flue Buttress overlooks and fades into the flue.
First Flue Buttress
45.
Spot the Brain
Cell 7m 4c
Start on the left
of the left most buttress. Step onto a ledge on the left edge of the buttress
then traverse right keeping low then ascend the right arête using a crack on its
right side.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
46.
Influenza 5m
4c
The arête on the
right side of the First Flue Buttress can be climbed directly, starting with
your right hand on the arête.
47.
The Snivelling
5m 5a
Step off the
boulder below the right wall; pass the ledge to gain the hand-sized flake, then
a mantelshelf move to finish.
Second Flue Buttress
48.
Bongs Crack 4m
4b
Climb the crack
high on the left of the middle buttress, ignoring the blandishments on the left!
Ron Kenyon
1978
49.
Loopy 4m HVD
The crack on the
right of the central buttress.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
50.
Dappy 4m HS
The wide crack that
separates the second buttress from the third buttress.
Ron Kenyon 1978
Third Flue Buttress
Between the wide
crack of Dappy and the arête to the right is the impressive unclimbed
west face of the third flue buttress. The east face of the third buttress is...
Lumberjack Wall
The following bold
routes are usually soloed.
51.
Lumberjack 5m
E3 5b
A bold eliminate
route has been climbed to climb the right hand side of the arête using the arête
for the left hand. It is always possible to step right, away from the arête, to
the slightly easier ground of...
52.
Ukerty Puck's Crooked Stook 6m E2 5b **
Right of the arête
is a discontinuous blind crack. Step up onto a good hold then continue up the
wall above.
Mark Turner
53.
Colonic Rush 6m
E2 5b/c
Start at the centre
of the wall immediately right of a small cave, move up on somewhat rounded holds
until a reach left gains a good edge. Continue straight up then move right to
finish.
Mark Turner
54.
Eau de Cologne
6m HVS 5a
Start right of
centre (right of Colonic Rush). Gain and follow the obvious crack
above.
The two preceding
climbs supersede He's OK (5a), which starts up Colonic
Rush, makes a precarious foot traverse right for 1m then finishes up Eau
de Cologne.
55.
Colophon 5m S
The obvious scoop
on the right of the Lumberjack Wall.
The flue is all
that separates the previous route from the following one...
The Magic Buttress
56.
A Little Bit of
Magic 3m 4b
Step off the rubble
remains of the flue and climb the shallow scoop past a miniature niche to an
easy finish.
Karin Magog
57.
Magic
Circle 10m 5a *
Start up A Little
Bit of Magic then hand traverse the break just below the top of the buttress
turning the arête and finish up the wall of Paul Daniel’s Wears a Wig. A
good way of sussing out some of the holds on The Griddle!
Steve Crowe
58.
Slight of Hand
5m 5c
An eliminate based
on the bulge/rib left of
The Griddle.
Karin Magog, Steve Crowe 9th August 1997
59.
The Griddle 5m
6a **
Climb the shallow
left facing groove up the centre of the buttress.
Pre 1979
60.
Harry’s Magic
Matchbox 5m 6a
The wall just right
of
The Griddle.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 9th August 1997
61.
Magic Music 5m
4c
Takes the arête
just to the right of
The Griddle.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
62.
Paul Daniel’s Wears
a Wig 4m 4c
Start 1m right of
the arête of
Magic
Music.
Gain a good left handhold then a long reach up and right to a rounded hold then
more easily to the top.
Mark Turner
The wall right
again is easier, 4b.
The next buttress
just to the right is undercut on its right hand side. This is...
The Autumn Buttress
63.
Karin’s Wall 4m
4c
The gully wall just
left of the arête.
Karin Magog
64.
Karl's Arête 5m
5a *
The left hand
arête.
Karl Lunt 25th August 1991
65.
Grommit takes the Initiative 5m 5c
The wall right of
Karl’s Arête is harder than it looks.
Karin Magog, Steve Crowe 9th August 1997
66.
Fall Arête 5m
5a *
Climb the undercut
right hand arête.
Ron Kenyon
1978
67.
Autumn Wall
5m 6b **
Climb the wall to
the right of Fall Arête without bridging. Stepping on to the
block beneath the overhang is difficult. Gaining the next break via small holds
is even more testing. Pull over the roof just right of the prominent small nose
more easily.
Steve Crowe 1990s
68.
A Bridge Too Far
5m 6a
Climb Autumn
Wall with recourse to bridging to gain the small holds below the obvious
break.
Steve Crowe 1990s
The next buttress
is the remarkable...
Inclined Buttress
The next climb is
opposite Autumn Wall.
69.
Spring Wall (A Leap
in the Dark) 3m 5a
A long stretch on
tiptoes should reach good holds. A hard pull leads to a mantelshelf finish. No
Bridging. Impossible for the short!
Steve Crowe 26th February 1995
70.
Their Glorious
Wealth 6m E5 6b
Tackles the
impressively steep west face of the Inclined Buttress. Start in the centre of
the west wall and gain the half height break. Move right to a flake where it is
possible to reach up to the top.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 9th August 1997
Their Glorious Wealth
The east wall, to
the right of the arête has a green streak running down the middle.
71.
An Inclination to
Solitude 6m VS 5a/b *
Climb directly up
to the green streak. From the first ledge climb the wall to the right using the
crack and the undercut arête to the right.
Bob Bennett 1990s
72.
Peace in the
Valley 4m E1 5c *
The northeast
arête. Start in the alcove/cave at the rear of the Inclined Boulder on the
overhanging arête 3m left (east) of Spring Wall. Use the arête for your
left hand and crimps and pockets for your right. Climb the arête, without
bridging, until it is possible to swing left on to a small ledge, to finish up
an Inclination to Solitude. Serious.
Steve Crowe 26th February 1995
Just to the right
again is....
Four-Leafed Clover Buttress
73.
Lay Down Those
Arms 4m HVS 5a
Start immediately
right of Peace in the Valley in the narrow gap between Inclined
Buttress and Four Leaf Clover Buttress. Climb the obvious blunt
arête. Using your back on the arête behind reduces the grade to 4c.
Steve Crowe 26th February 1995
74.
The Emerald Isle
7m E5 5c/6a
Start at the toe of
the buttress and climb the (south west) arête above via two large ledges.
75.
Blood Red Streets
7m E6 6c ***
Between the
southwest arête of Emerald Isle and the obvious capped corner to the
right is a short flake. Use this to gain the break. Continue up the bulging wall
above, past another break to finish more easily. A serious route.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 9th August 1997
It was top roped three times without a fall then led placing gear ground up. A
boulder was placed in the large horizontal break so that a large cam could fit!
Ian Cummins soloed onsight above an impressive drift of snow in 2005.
Above the corner is
an attractive unclimbed scoop. Immediately right of this is a vertical wall.
76.
Sin Fein 7m E5
6b **
Climb the vertical
(south east) wall using its right arête for your right hand. Protection only
after the hard climbing is over!
Steve Crowe solo 17th November 2001.
Ian Cummins soloed onsight above an impressive drift of snow in
2005.
Sin Fein
The following
routes are all on the northeast face at the back of the buttress
77.
Alfalfa 5m VS
4c *
Climb the blank
looking wall about 1m right of the arête of Sin Fein to the
obvious break, then continue more easily to the top.
Karl Lunt
78.
Clover at Your Feet 5m HVD
Climb the wall and
the shallow rightward facing corner above.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
79.
Twin Cracks 5m HVD
The obvious twin
cracks to the right of Clover at Your Feet.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
80.
Easy Arête 2m HVD
An easy way on to
the buttress to set up top ropes and other dastardly things.
To the East is a
number of small boulders, the best of these has two small walls with an
interesting arête facing south across the valley. This is about 30m east of
Four Leaf Clover Buttress.
Flow Spar Buttress
81.
Ebb 4m 5b
The slightly
bulging left wall.
82.
Spartan 4m 4c
Climb the arête.
83.
Flo 4m 4b/c
Climb the shallow
groove up the right wall.
John Earl and Alec Burns on first ascents of the Ebb and Flow Buttress
About 30 metres
east is the large and impressive Lucky strike Buttress, just before it is the
small but distinctive Matterhorn Boulder. This has a few easy problems.
Matterhorn Boulder
Behind and to the
left is a low angled slab.
84.
The Matted Horn
4m D
Climb straight up
the centre of the boulder.
85.
On the Piste 3m
5b
Step off the
boulder on the right and climb the grooved slab and crack above.
On the Piste
86.
NE Face 3m 5b
The steep face on
the right.
The next recorded
climbs are on Luckystrike Buttress. It has two faces one facing west and the
other, known as Miners Wall, faces east.
Luckystrike Buttress
The West Face
This wall has an
obvious break at two-thirds height and an undercut left arête. The upper wall
is split by various cracks and the following routes climb these.
86a. Jabba
V4 6b
The undercut arête on
the left side of the west face of Lucky Strike Buttress.
87.
Sach 7m HVS 5b
Climb the wall just
to the right of the undercut left arête and overhanging crack above.
Pre 1979
88.
Nikki 8m E2
5c **
The wall 2m to the
right of Sach, to an overhanging crack where a layback move leads to a
difficult finish.
Pre 1979
89.
Stewpot 10m VS 5a *
Gain the sloping,
triangular ledge, 3 metres right of Nikki and about 2m above the ground.
Continue to the top using flakes and trending left.
Pre 1979
Stewpot
The wall to the
right has been ‘claimed’ a number of times, it goes at E2 5c.
The eastern wall is
known as...
Miners Wall
90.
Toil Arête 11m
HVS 5a **
The arête between
the east and west faces is climbed direct with some long reaches and finish just
right of the arête.
Steve Crowe
1990s
91.
Luckystrike 10m HS 4b **
Climb the wall just
right of the front rib.
D Staton and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
"Not entirely sure which
line this is meant to take. The way I went followed the line on the topo and was
about HS 4c ** but I suspect I was too far right." Feedback
92.
Galena 8m S
4a *
Takes the wall 2m
right of the rib.
D Staton and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
93.
Ore 7m VD *
Ascends the centre
of the wall by a shallow groove and crack.
D Staton and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
"We also did the wall
between the arête and Ore, at about HD *, this seems to be the line described as
Smelter in Stewart Wilson's N England book." Feedback
94.
Smelter 5m D
Start at the
right-hand arête and climb the groove above using the obvious flake.
D Staton and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
To the right of
Miners Wall are two small buttresses, the second one is below Miners Wall, and
the first is opposite Smelter. This has an undercut nose and a slightly
overhanging west face, this is...
The Coal Face
95.
Vane Tempest
3m S
Climb the bulging
west face.
96.
Dawdon
3m Mod
Climb the crack to
the right of the undercut nose. Poor.
Below the Coal Face
and below and east of Miners Wall is...
Plumbate Buttress.
97.
It’s Up To You
4m S
Takes the left end of the
overhanging (left hand) side of the buttress. Make a hard move to gain a ledge
at ground level! Continue up to an awkward finish.
Pre 1979
98.
Evening Gold
4m 5a
Gain the 0.5 metre
long crack at mid height, then make an awkward mantelshelf finish. (The sitting
start is 6b).
Steve Crowe 26th February 1995
99.
Iron Pyrites
4m 5b ***
Make powerful moves
up the overhanging arête.
Steve Crowe
26th February 1995
100.
Plumbate 5m
S *
The face right of
the arête. Climb direct passing two sloping ledges.
Pre 1979
101.
Plumbers Mate
6m 5c **
Traverse rightwards
from It’s up to You and finish up Iron Pyrites.
Further east, is a
cluster of boulders known as The East End Boulders. A number of good boulder
problems have been worked out and are recorded on the diagram.
Warm Up Wall
A few short climbs can be made on
the short wall behind Calver’s Face. Just to the right is a steep wall with an
excellent slabby boulder in front of it. The steep buttress is...
Calver’s Face
102.
Tito's
3m S
Climb the left end
of the wall.
Pre 1979
103.
Fiesta
6m 4b *
Start in the centre
of the left wall, then over a bulge to a small V-groove to finish.
Pre 1979
104.
Conqueror
7m VD **
Climb the arête
and "S" crack on the left of Calver’s Face.
Pre 1979
105.
Green Dragon
8m S 4a *
The shallow groove
and crack to the right of the arête.
D Staton
and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
106.
Marimba
8m 4b **
Climb the centre of
the face and make a delicate move up into a scoop and finishing left.
D Staton
and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
"VS 4c verging on VS 5a **
or even ***, though it seems possible to take several different lines up the
wall, I certainly couldn't find one that was 4b! Though the topo in the book
seems to show it traversing in from the right, missing out the lower wall -
which might make it 4b?" Feedback
An eliminate is
possible between Marimba and Upna Down at 5b.
107.
Upna Down 7m
VD
Takes the right
hand side of Calver’s Face to a ledge, to finish using a curious pocket hold.
D Staton
and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
108.
La Bamba
12m S 4a **
A left to right
traverse of Calver Face. Hand traverse across the left wall and round the
arête to gain the ledge. Continue rightwards to finish as for Upna Down.
D Staton
and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
"Though the guide seems to imply you foot
traverse the ledge, and I continued hand traversing. The crux was the bit shared
with Upna Down - so I guess we thought that was S 4a too (and worth a *) though
we didn't do the bottom part." Feedback
Skiver Buttress
This is dominated
by the slab on its front face. The slab can be climbed almost anywhere at about
5b. However due to the slight amount of traffic and the sandy nature of the slab
most of the problems are a slightly unnerving proposition!
109.
Grafter
4m 6b
Climb the arête
that rises out of the wide slanting crack, to the left of the slab.
110.
Rondo
3m VD
Takes the wide
slanting crack.
Pre 1979
111.
Eliminate
3m 5b
An absorbing
eliminate takes the shallow groove just right of the slanting crack of Rondo,
resisting the temptation to move round onto the slab!
112.
Tarantella
5m 5a *
Boldly climb the
left arête of the slab.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
113.
Skiver 5m
5a/5b *
Climbs the centre
of the slab.
Pre 1979
114.
Mazurka
5m S
The right arête of
the slab.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
Thirty metres to
the right is another slab with one route recorded...
115.
Strip the Willow
7m D
Climb the obvious
slab.
Ron
Kenyon 1978
Graded List
E6
Blood Red Streets
6c
E5
Glorious Wealth 6b
Sin Feinn 6b
The Emerald Isle
5c/6a
E3
Lumberjack 5b
E2
Colonic Rush 5b/c
Ukerty Puck's Crooked Stook 5b
E1
Peace in the Valley
5c
HVS
Sach 5b
Lay Down Those Arms
5a
Eau de Cologne
5a
Toil Arête 5a
New Climbs
Alan Dougherty June 2007
The following problems were developed by Alan and Carol Dougherty, 1.6.07. No
evidence of previous ascents was evident, although Peter Hay thinks he had
climbed some of the easier problems during an earlier visit.
Some 200metres further up-valley (north-west) from the left most of the recorded
climbs lies a three metre high block, embedded into the hillside, at a similar
altitude to the Tilted Slab. It is identified by a small alcove at its base. The
approach from the Warm Up Circuit area is easy, being mostly over burnt heather.
The Problems are described from left to right:
BLOCK A (NGR 97530125)
5b
Exit alcove – high-stepping rock-over – slaps to finish.
5a
Right of alcove – prominent foothold – rock-over – trend left crossing
previous problem.
5b
From initial foothold of previous problem – step right – upwards on slopers.
4a
Delightful climbing up light streak in centre of slab.
Just behind is a low angled block. The obvious line is a pleasant Diff.
Fifty metres towards the established climbs (south-east), and slightly above the
previous block, is a three to four metre high undercut block. It lies directly
above the pillars of the ruined peat store.
BLOCK B (NGR: 97600124)
5a
Follow diagonal flakes at the left-hand end.
5b
At point of right-hand end of higher undercut section, using pocket.
5b
1.5m to right of previous problem, small hand holds assist gaining foot-
hold at waist height. If you seek off-width practice, there’s an optional arm
brace in top break.
5c
Further 1.5m right. Crux is establishing on the undercut wall.
5c
Arête to right, with a gymnastic start.
Variation Severe
Foot traverse the lowest break from the right and continue up arête in fine
position.
V.Diff
The wall above the leaning slab.
Traverse 5m 5b
Step off boulder at left of block and follow the obvious break rightwards –
sustained.
Six metres right of BLOCK B is a small block with a diagonal crack at the right
hand end:
BLOCK C
Diff.
The diagonal crack.
5c
SDS to right of the diagonal crack and ascend leaning wall. Finish is
sloping mantle-shelf.
5c
SDS from below the corner prow to another awkward mantle-shelf finish.
4c
Two metres right of the corner prow. Centre of easy slab to large break and
more awkward finish.
4b
Up faint rib (1m further right) via horizontal flake to harder finish.
Traverse 5m 4c
The obvious break, taken left to right.
Eight metres right of, and slightly lower than, BLOCK C is:
BLOCK D1
4c
The gritty slab feels tenuous until the good break is reached.
Five metres further right is a two faced block with two diagonal breaks:
BLOCK D2
4b
Follow the line under small flake on left hand face.
4b
Just to right and above a prominent pebble, using a finger slot in the
second break.
The Nose 4b
Follow the blunt arête at the corner.
More New Climbs
(need checking)
"I have done a selection of
routes that were not listed in the North East England guidebook and thought i'd
check them with you guys as possible new lines, they are all fairly obvious
lines so they may be recorded but not in the book. I've given a name,
description, grade, length and who climbed them. The five are at Healaugh (Crag
Willas)" Thanks, John Swain
Tranquility Boulder:
Steggy Spine HVD 4a 6m
A hand traverse of the west face from right to left starting at the lowest
point (going up hill) and finishing up the far left arete.
Ian Swain April 2007
(Another climber at the crag that day climbed the route after our party and
thought it deserved the grade 4a, we originally gave it VD)
Skiver Buttress:
Green Gully VD 3m
The wide green chimney on the east side of the block, using hands only in
the crack but feet on the opposite wall, following on to the highest point.
Ian Swain April 2007
Calver face area:
(An obvious cave formed by two
boulders leaning on one another, on a level with skiver buttress about 20m to
the left)
Pull me Gently V2
5b 4m
Sit start. Following the obvious roof crack direct on the right of the cave
using small flakes. Stick to the crack to a mantle finish out of the cave then
traverse left to the top of the boulder.
John Swain April 2007
Strip the Willow Block:
Lichen This VB 4c 4m
Hand traverse from right to left up the arête/edge of the west face, climb
into the overhang/scoop and then go straight up to a strenuous mantle finish.
John Swain April 2007
Primo Block:
The first small boulder that lies
in front of inscribed block and to the right of cartwheel block, I called it
'Primo Block' (its the first boulder in the front collection).
Swain's Problem V1 5a 3m
Sit start. The undercut North East face. Start in the back of the cave
underneath the small roof, climb direct back out and pull over the lip to finish
up the short arête.
John Swain April 2007
Full
details in the
North East England Guide
Return to top of page
Return to Home Page
| 
