HEALAUGH CRAG (Crag
Willas)
OS Sheet: 92
Map Reference: NY974013
Aspect: South West Facing
Altitude: 530m
Approach Time: 20 minutes
Situation and Character
Perhaps the most remote of all the venues covered in the guide but well worth a visit, this collection of small buttresses and large boulders is situated in a quiet part of the East Pennines at an altitude of over 500 metres. The rock is excellent quality gritstone which has a classic rounded nature and many blind cracks. This gives rise to "smear" problems on both delicate slabs and steep walls. The situation is a suntrap in good weather and a superb quiet setting. A good place to get away from the crowds! It is comfortable to climb here from late spring to early autumn. From a bouldering/soloing viewpoint the landings are not always good. Although most of the routes here have been soloed the use of a rope can sometimes be prudent.
History
Dave Staton whose routes during trips with the Youth Clubs of Darlington included those on Miners Wall and Calver Face was the first record his activities in the early 1960’s. Bruce Perry added routes to the West side of Luckystrike Buttress. Whilst checking out the crag for the North of England Guide, Ron Kenyon climbed a number of routes in 1978. In more recent times, Karl Lunt has climbed many of the existing routes and added some of his own the best of these being On The Level and Karl’s Aręte. FRCC stalwart Ron Kenyon is Mr Wobbly. Steve Crowe and Karin Magog added many in fill routes and problems during the 1990’s some of which have no doubt been climbed before but not previously recorded. Of particular note were the ascents of Glorious Wealth the first route to tackle the awesomely steep west wall of the Inclined Buttress and the impressive lead of Blood Red Streets .
Access
Driving from the South and East;
Head for Reeth in Swaledale then on to the village of Healaugh before turning off right on a minor, gated road, through Kearton to a T-junction. Turn right to the popular picnic spot of Surrender Bridge where the road crosses Hard Level Gill. Park here.
Driving from the North;
Follow a minor road, which leaves the A66 just south of Barnard Castle and is signposted to “Reeth". Follow this road for about 8 Miles to a T-junction in the Arkengarthdale Valley. Turn left, then after about half a mile turn right towards Kearton and Feetham (signposted to "Low Row"). After about two miles a ford will be crossed. Continue to the popular picnic spot of Surrender Bridge where the road crosses Hard Level Gill. Park here.
Approaches
The Reeth Estates request a phone call to gamekeeper, Paul Simpson on 01748 884 483 to check that there is no shooting taking place prior to a visit. Please approach by the old flue running up from the Old Gang Smelt Mills. The following approach as described, although not the shortest, is the estates preferred route and anyway may save time spent stumbling aimlessly across the heather clad moors. Park at the popular picnic spot where Surrender Bridge crosses Hard Level Gill. A good level track leads west from here above the north side of the river to reach the old mining ruins at NGR 974005. At this point the ruins of an old flue (looking like an old dry stone wall from a distance) runs directly up the hillside northwards over a number of false summits! The crag is not visible until just before the top of the hill. The flue squeezes between The Lumberjack Wall of the Third Flue Buttress on the left, and The Magic Buttress on the right.
The Climbs
The climbs are described from left to right. The old lead mine flue is an obvious reference point. Left of the flue there is a large easy angled slabby boulder facing the valley. In front of this is another immaculately placed wall also facing south, which, as well as having some interesting problems it enjoys an excellent landing (a rarity at Crag Willas) and makes an ideal changing area/lunch spot! This is Friar's Wall. Behind Friar's Wall is a small boulder with a smooth south-facing slab this is your warm up. (Some 200metres further up-valley (north-west) from the left most of the recorded climbs lies a three metre high block, embedded into the hillside, at a similar altitude to the Tilted Slab. It is identified by a small alcove at its base. The approach from the Warm Up Circuit area is easy, being mostly over burnt heather. See New Routes below for details).
The Rhombus
1. The Rhombus VD *
Easily up the centre of the slab.
Friar's Wall
2. Friardays 3m 5a
Climb, using the left aręte for the left hand.
The same aręte on the steeper left side from a sitting start is harder (Deadlines 5b).
3. Friarfold 3m 4b
Up the wall, one metre right of the left aręte.
Ron Kenyon 1978
4. Fry Up 3m 5b
Takes the wall three metres right of the left aręte and just left of a vague flake line.
Ron Kenyon 1978
5. Friar Tuck 4m 5a *
Start 1m left of the inscription “MC”. Climb the centre of the wall up a line of snappy (and snapped) flakes.
Ron Kenyon 1978
6. Hush 4m 5c *
Start immediately left of the initials “MC” Progress is made via a pointed left hand hold to gain holds above a tiny undercut. Continue direct to the top.
7. Ye Olde Friars 6m 5a **
Start from a small ledge near the right aręte and using a small circular pocket reach a flake set above the carved inscription “MC” and so to the top.
Ron Kenyon 1978
8. Gangue Way 6m 4b
From the small ledge just left of the right aręte, climb the scoop above.
Karl Lunt 17 August 1991 Solo
9. Gangue Way Direct 6m 5a
Gain the ledge direct using right hand on the aręte.
10. Gable End 5m 4c **
Pleasant moves directly up the right aręte and on its right-hand side.
Ron Kenyon 1978
11. The Pig 4m 5b
The narrow fluted wall right of Gable End is climbed near its right edge.
Karl Lunt 17 August 1991 Solo
12. Low Level Traverse 8m 5b
Start with right hand on aręte and gain the right edge of the Gangue Way ledge direct. A fingery and technical traverse leads left to finish up Friarfold.
The boulders in the warm up area continue to be described in a clockwise direction. The next boulder can be seen below Friars Wall as a short triangular shaped wall with the inscription KD 1886 at the top of the north face. This is Inscribed Block. The problems start on the larger south face, which is easily identified by a line of three ancient drill holes. These problems are described from right to left.
Inscribed Block
13. South East Side 4a
From the southeast side climb the undercut rib and follow the grooved scoop to the top.
14. Left Slanting Gangway VD
Start 1m left of S.E. Side and follow the left-slanting gangway to finish with a swing left.
15. Rock Pocket 5a
From the pockets (three in a row) rock on to the ledge on the right. Crimp the minute flake to reach better holds above. The gangway on the right is within reach but it is strictly out of bounds.
16. South West Aręte 5a *
Climb the SW Aręte.
17. The Runnels VD
The west wall between the runnels
To the west is Cartwheel Block with its southwest facing elliptical slab.
Cartwheel Block
18. Right Hand Drive VD *
Climb out of the recess, at the right hand end of the block, and hand traverse a good ledge leftwards to finish.
(couldn't find anything that fitted the guidebook description! Unless the 'good ledge' is the top of the block, in which case, Diff no stars)
19. Four Horse Power D *
Climb the slab just right of the centre.
20. Left Hand Drive D
Follow the aręte, rightwards, with your feet on the south face all the way.
The next boulder left has a large west-facing slab. This is...
Tilted Slab
21. South Face 4a (left hand finish 4b *, right hand finish 4a)
Climb the steep south face moving either left or right at the top.
22. Full Tilt 4a *
Starting two metres left at a right slanting crack, gain the tiny/small corner and move onto the upper slab moving right to the top.
23. Bitter Tongue 4a *
Start just right of the layback flake of Slant. Move right on to the tongue and finish direct.
24. Slant HD
Follow the layback flake to the top.
The slab can be climbed anyway quite easily.
25. Tilted 5b *
Climb the undercut NE face. Start with right hand in an obvious undercut/layaway.
Steve Crowe 26th February 1995
26. What’s Your Problem 5c *
From a sitting start on two good crimps below the left edge of the undercut NE face, gain the lip, rock over and finish up the short slab above.
Steve Crowe
About 7m behind Tilted Slab is a boulder with a diamond shaped plaque on its south face. This is Diamond Block.
Diamond Block
27. Diamond Left MS
Start 1m left of Diamond Face, moving left on undercuts to the top.
"Is this an eliminate? By the time you're high enough to use the undercuts you can also reach the top, so unless the top isn't allowed I don't know where this is meant to go!" Feedback
28. Diamond Face HVD
Climb the middle of the plaque.
29. Diamond Right Mod
Start as for Diamond Face. Move right then up easy groove back left.
Northeast of Diamond Block a few metres is a huge boulder with an east facing low angled slab and a steep west face. This is...
Low Angled Slab
Steep West Face
30. Tired of Writing 5m 4a
Start at the extreme left end of the undercut wall. Step off block left of the blunt rib and climb the centre of the wall to the top.
31. Helados 5m 4c
Step onto the undercut left end of the wall and ascend the right side of the blunt rib above with balancy moves.
Ron Kenyon pre 1979
32. King Kone 5m 5a *
Step off a boulder in the middle of the pitted wall 2m right of the undercut rib and climb straight up past a useful pocket to an awkward finish or, to save embarrassment, move left to a good finishing hold and there by reducing the grade to 4c.
Ron Kenyon pre 1979
33. Mr Wobbly 5m 5a
Climb a shallow groove, just left of the inscription J.T., to an awkward finish via a thin crack.
Ron Kenyon 26 August 1991
34. On The Level 8m 5a **
Ascend the open groove with the inscription J.T., and then make a rising leftwards traverse using the obvious parallel breaks, which ease after passing the rib of Helados.
Karl Lunt 17 August 1991 Solo
The area to the northeast, behind the Low Angled Slab is...
The Alcove
Behind and on the right of the easy angled slab is a chimney with a large flake set across the top. This is the line of The Dares on You. To the left of the chimney is the blunt rib of Mivvi.
35. Mivvi 3m S
Climb the rib on its left side to the ledge. The aręte of the top block succumbs to a bold layback.
Ron Kenyon 1978
36. The Dares On You 7m 5a *
Climb the chimney and move right onto a ledge. The huge flake above and left has a slabby front. Move back left onto the front of the slab then...(too late now you'll have to go for it!) make a thin move to the top.
Ron Kenyon 1978
37. Gumby 5m 5b
Climb the front of the block right of The Dares on You and follow the curving aręte above to the ledge. Awkward!
Ron Kenyon 1978
38. Bob's Problem 4m 4b
Start at a recessed wall right of a boulder and crack. Climb the wall to the ledge then up the slab above.
39. Call me Al 4m 4c
A short climb split by a large ledge! Climb the short aręte, 2m right of Bob’s Problem, on its left side to gain the large ledge. Continue more boldly up the short wall above.
The right-hand side of The Alcove has a, square-cut, block buttress with the large ledge of Call me Al to its left.
40. Bruce's Aręte 5m 4b *
Climb a short scoop to the large ledge then step right and climb the left aręte on its right side.
Bruce Perry (possibly Ron Kenyon 1978)
41. Don't Panic 7m 4c
Climb the face right of Bruce's Aręte without using either aręte as a handhold.
42. Bob's Aręte 4m VD
Climb the right aręte of the block buttress, without using the blocks immediately to the right.
A few metres east of The Alcove is a small boulder with an overhanging east face. This is the Tranquillity Boulder.
Tranquillity Boulder
43. Breeze 4m D
Traverse of the west face of the Tranquillity Boulder.
44. Tranquillity 4m 4c
Hand traverse the overhanging face of the boulder.
A few metres further right and immediately left of the flue are a line of three small buttresses that almost merge into one, the Flue buttresses. The Lumberjack Face of the Third Flue Buttress overlooks and fades into the flue.
First Flue Buttress
45. Spot the Brain Cell 7m 4c
Start on the left of the left most buttress. Step onto a ledge on the left edge of the buttress then traverse right keeping low then ascend the right aręte using a crack on its right side.
Ron Kenyon 1978
46. Influenza 5m 4c
The aręte on the right side of the First Flue Buttress can be climbed directly, starting with your right hand on the aręte.
47. The Snivelling 5m 5a
Step off the boulder below the right wall; pass the ledge to gain the hand-sized flake, then a mantelshelf move to finish.
Second Flue Buttress
48. Bongs Crack 4m 4b
Climb the crack high on the left of the middle buttress, ignoring the blandishments on the left!
Ron Kenyon 1978
49. Loopy 4m HVD
The crack on the right of the central buttress.
Ron Kenyon 1978
50. Dappy 4m HS
The wide crack that separates the second buttress from the third buttress.
Ron Kenyon 1978
Third Flue Buttress
Between the wide crack of Dappy and the aręte to the right is the impressive unclimbed west face of the third flue buttress. The east face of the third buttress is...
Lumberjack Wall
The following bold routes are usually soloed.
51. Lumberjack 5m E3 5b
A bold eliminate route has been climbed to climb the right hand side of the aręte using the aręte for the left hand. It is always possible to step right, away from the aręte, to the slightly easier ground of...
52. Ukerty Puck's Crooked Stook 6m E2 5b **
Right of the aręte is a discontinuous blind crack. Step up onto a good hold then continue up the wall above.
Mark Turner
53. Colonic Rush 6m E2 5b/c
Start at the centre of the wall immediately right of a small cave, move up on somewhat rounded holds until a reach left gains a good edge. Continue straight up then move right to finish.
Mark Turner
54. Eau de Cologne 6m HVS 5a
Start right of centre (right of Colonic Rush). Gain and follow the obvious crack above.
The two preceding climbs supersede He's OK (5a), which starts up Colonic Rush, makes a precarious foot traverse right for 1m then finishes up Eau de Cologne.
55. Colophon 5m S
The obvious scoop on the right of the Lumberjack Wall.
The flue is all that separates the previous route from the following one...
The Magic Buttress
56. A Little Bit of Magic 3m 4b
Step off the rubble remains of the flue and climb the shallow scoop past a miniature niche to an easy finish.
Karin Magog
57. Magic Circle 10m 5a *
Start up A Little Bit of Magic then hand traverse the break just below the top of the buttress turning the aręte and finish up the wall of Paul Daniel’s Wears a Wig. A good way of sussing out some of the holds on The Griddle!
Steve Crowe
58. Slight of Hand 5m 5c
An eliminate based on the bulge/rib left of The Griddle.
Karin Magog, Steve Crowe 9th August 1997
59. The Griddle 5m 6a **
Climb the shallow left facing groove up the centre of the buttress.
Pre 1979
60. Harry’s Magic Matchbox 5m 6a
The wall just right of The Griddle.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 9th August 1997
61. Magic Music 5m 4c
Takes the aręte just to the right of The Griddle.
Ron Kenyon 1978
62. Paul Daniel’s Wears a Wig 4m 4c
Start 1m right of the aręte of Magic Music. Gain a good left handhold then a long reach up and right to a rounded hold then more easily to the top.
Mark Turner
The wall right again is easier, 4b.
The next buttress just to the right is undercut on its right hand side. This is...
The Autumn Buttress
63. Karin’s Wall 4m 4c
The gully wall just left of the aręte.
Karin Magog
64. Karl's Aręte 5m 5a *
The left hand aręte.
Karl Lunt 25th August 1991
65. Grommit takes the Initiative 5m 5c
The wall right of Karl’s Aręte is harder than it looks.
Karin Magog, Steve Crowe 9th August 1997
66. Fall Aręte 5m 5a *
Climb the undercut right hand aręte.
Ron Kenyon 1978
67. Autumn Wall 5m 6b **
Climb the wall to the right of Fall Aręte without bridging. Stepping on to the block beneath the overhang is difficult. Gaining the next break via small holds is even more testing. Pull over the roof just right of the prominent small nose more easily.
Steve Crowe 1990s
68. A Bridge Too Far 5m 6a
Climb Autumn Wall with recourse to bridging to gain the small holds below the obvious break.
Steve Crowe 1990s
The next buttress is the remarkable...
Inclined Buttress
The next climb is opposite Autumn Wall.
69. Spring Wall (A Leap in the Dark) 3m 5a
A long stretch on tiptoes should reach good holds. A hard pull leads to a mantelshelf finish. No Bridging. Impossible for the short!
Steve Crowe 26th February 1995
70. Their Glorious Wealth 6m E5 6b
Tackles the impressively steep west face of the Inclined Buttress. Start in the centre of the west wall and gain the half height break. Move right to a flake where it is possible to reach up to the top.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 9th August 1997
Their Glorious Wealth
The east wall, to the right of the aręte has a green streak running down the middle.
71. An Inclination to Solitude 6m VS 5a/b *
Climb directly up to the green streak. From the first ledge climb the wall to the right using the crack and the undercut aręte to the right.
Bob Bennett 1990s
72. Peace in the Valley 4m E1 5c *
The northeast aręte. Start in the alcove/cave at the rear of the Inclined Boulder on the overhanging aręte 3m left (east) of Spring Wall. Use the aręte for your left hand and crimps and pockets for your right. Climb the aręte, without bridging, until it is possible to swing left on to a small ledge, to finish up an Inclination to Solitude. Serious.
Steve Crowe 26th February 1995
Just to the right again is....
Four-Leafed Clover Buttress
73. Lay Down Those Arms 4m HVS 5a
Start immediately right of Peace in the Valley in the narrow gap between Inclined Buttress and Four Leaf Clover Buttress. Climb the obvious blunt aręte. Using your back on the aręte behind reduces the grade to 4c.
Steve Crowe 26th February 1995
74. The Emerald Isle 7m E5 5c/6a
Start at the toe of the buttress and climb the (south west) aręte above via two large ledges.
75. Blood Red Streets 7m E6 6c ***
Between the southwest aręte of Emerald Isle and the obvious capped corner to the right is a short flake. Use this to gain the break. Continue up the bulging wall above, past another break to finish more easily. A serious route.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 9th August 1997
It was top roped three times without a fall then led placing gear ground up. A boulder was placed in the large horizontal break so that a large cam could fit! Ian Cummins soloed onsight above an impressive drift of snow in 2005.
Above the corner is an attractive unclimbed scoop. Immediately right of this is a vertical wall.
76. Sin Fein 7m E5 6b **
Climb the vertical (south east) wall using its right aręte for your right hand. Protection only after the hard climbing is over!
Steve Crowe solo 17th November 2001. Ian Cummins soloed onsight above an impressive drift of snow in 2005.
Sin Fein
The following routes are all on the northeast face at the back of the buttress
77. Alfalfa 5m VS 4c *
Climb the blank looking wall about 1m right of the aręte of Sin Fein to the obvious break, then continue more easily to the top.
Karl Lunt
78. Clover at Your Feet 5m HVD
Climb the wall and the shallow rightward facing corner above.
Ron Kenyon 1978
79. Twin Cracks 5m HVD
The obvious twin cracks to the right of Clover at Your Feet.
Ron Kenyon 1978
80. Easy Aręte 2m HVD
An easy way on to the buttress to set up top ropes and other dastardly things.
To the East is a number of small boulders, the best of these has two small walls with an interesting aręte facing south across the valley. This is about 30m east of Four Leaf Clover Buttress.
Flow Spar Buttress
81. Ebb 4m 5b
The slightly bulging left wall.
82. Spartan 4m 4c
Climb the aręte.
83. Flo 4m 4b/c
Climb the shallow groove up the right wall.
John Earl and Alec Burns on first ascents of the Ebb and Flow Buttress
About 30 metres east is the large and impressive Lucky strike Buttress, just before it is the small but distinctive Matterhorn Boulder. This has a few easy problems.
Matterhorn Boulder
Behind and to the left is a low angled slab.
84. The Matted Horn 4m D
Climb straight up the centre of the boulder.
85. On the Piste 3m 5b
Step off the boulder on the right and climb the grooved slab and crack above.
On the Piste
86. NE Face 3m 5b
The steep face on the right.
The next recorded climbs are on Luckystrike Buttress. It has two faces one facing west and the other, known as Miners Wall, faces east.
Luckystrike Buttress
The West Face
This wall has an obvious break at two-thirds height and an undercut left aręte. The upper wall is split by various cracks and the following routes climb these.
86a. Jabba V4 6b
The undercut aręte on the left side of the west face of Lucky Strike Buttress.
87. Sach 7m HVS 5b
Climb the wall just to the right of the undercut left aręte and overhanging crack above.
Pre 1979
88. Nikki 8m E2 5c **
The wall 2m to the right of Sach, to an overhanging crack where a layback move leads to a difficult finish.
Pre 1979
89. Stewpot 10m VS 5a *
Gain the sloping, triangular ledge, 3 metres right of Nikki and about 2m above the ground. Continue to the top using flakes and trending left.
Pre 1979
Stewpot
The wall to the right has been ‘claimed’ a number of times, it goes at E2 5c.
The eastern wall is known as...
Miners Wall
90. Toil Aręte 11m HVS 5a **
The aręte between the east and west faces is climbed direct with some long reaches and finish just right of the aręte.
Steve Crowe 1990s
91. Luckystrike 10m HS 4b **
Climb the wall just right of the front rib.
D Staton and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
"Not entirely sure which
line this is meant to take. The way I went followed the line on the topo and was
about HS 4c ** but I suspect I was too far right." Feedback
92. Galena 8m S 4a *
Takes the wall 2m right of the rib.
D Staton and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
93. Ore 7m VD *
Ascends the centre of the wall by a shallow groove and crack.
D Staton and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
"We also did the wall between the aręte and Ore, at about HD *, this seems to be the line described as Smelter in Stewart Wilson's N England book." Feedback
94. Smelter 5m D
Start at the right-hand aręte and climb the groove above using the obvious flake.
D Staton and Youth Clubs of Darlington 1964
To the right of Miners Wall are two small buttresses, the second one is below Miners Wall, and the first is opposite Smelter. This has an undercut nose and a slightly overhanging west face, this is...
The Coal Face
95. Vane Tempest 3m S
Climb the bulging west face.