|
|
|
|
OS Landranger Sheet: 94 Map Reference: NZ538033
Aspect: North
Altitude:
350m Approach: 30 minutes
Mini Guide:
Cringle Crag Photo: Franco Cookson
Situation
and Character The
crag lies on the northern flank of Cringle Moor overlooking the small village of
Kirby. From a distance the crag is not easy to recognise as the hillside has
numerous rocky outcrops, on closer inspection however the crags impressive
jutting overhangs make further description unnecessary. The outcrop is
unfortunately slow drying and it is not unusual to encounter some seepage on
climbs in the central area. The rock is usually of reasonable quality but some
climbs have bands of softer sandstone that requires care. Belays can be
difficult to arrange and in some cases it is safest to belay using an extra rope
from the outcrops above. Access and Approaches The best approach is made by turning off the Al72 between Stokesley and Swainby to the village of Carlton. Pass through the village and take the road toward Chop Gate. From the summit of Carlton Bank, continue for a further 300m to park near to the Lord Stones Café. Walk east along the Cleveland Way path but instead of taking the track that leads to the summit of Cringle Moor follow the path that contours around the north side. After about 1.5km the crag can be seen, situated left of centre, on the hills concave northern face, approximately 100m below the summit.
The Climbs Several of the climbs to the right of Wedge Route are currently [December 2002] very dirty, and will require some cleaning prior to an ascent. Note:
Any insitu gear probably dates from the first ascent and should be treated with
great care.
LEFT HAND BUTTRESS Situated
about 50m above and to the left of the main outcrop. 1. Sloper 13m VS 4c Start
in the corner under the overhang. Climb the crack to the roof then hand traverse
left and up to the top. Strenuous. Humble brothers 1963. 2. Amigos 7m HVS 5c The
obvious crack splitting the overhang on the left side of the prominent nose. To
finish traverse left at a grassy ledge. Steve Brown, Dave Paul. Early 1980s.
Immediately
to the left of the main crag and separated by a grassy gully is a small steep
buttress. 3. El
Spiderman 12m E1 5b Start
at the toe of the buttress below a groove. Climb the groove then swing out left
up the wall and shallow corner to finish. Good, bold climbing. Dave Paul, Steve Brown. Early 1980s. 4. Walk
On By 12m VS 4c The
wide groove and crack on the right of the buttress. 1980s.
MAIN CRAG Right
of the grassy gully lies the main buttress.
4a. Up from the Skies 17m
E4 6b 5. El
Lawrence 15m E3 5c Begin
5m right of the gully at the obvious groove capped by a roof. Climb this [peg
runners], turning the roof on the right. Good climbing. Derrick Van Meerbeeck, Stewart Patterson 1963. Originally climbed with several pegs for aid [A1 Severe]. First Free Ascent: Alan Moss, Kelvin Neal 25th August 1981. 6. Cosmic
Wipeout 20m HVS 5a Start
immediately right of El Lawrence and climb the wall to the break. Traverse right
and finish as for Cosmic Debris. 1980s. 7. The
Voice 18m E1 5b Climb
the wall just right of the arête, then either left and up El Lawrence, or right
and up Cosmic Debris. An interesting problem. 1980s. 8. Cosmic
Debris 17m VS 5a Climbs
the obvious corner in the middle of the crag. Starts 3m right of The Voice at
the left side of the alcove. Climb the corner, continue up a crack to a small
overhang, turn this on the left, then straight up to finish. Paul Ingham, Alan Taylor 22nd September 1979.
9.
Terry’s
Dilemma 30m
Climb the initial corner of Cosmic Debris (Severe), step right and
follow the crack and hanging groove through the overhang, via good, small
Friends. It may be a good Idea to pre-place a lower off as the top gully is
sketchy! FFA Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton 28/09/2008
The next
route free climbs the largest horizontal roof [4m+] in Cleveland, using a
combination of jams, undercuts and layaways. The climbing is superb and unique
in the region.
10. Wedge
Route 18m E4 6a * Start
at the right hand corner of the alcove. Climb the easy corner to the roof. Gain
the roof crack [the start is usually damp] then follow this rightwards to the
lip. Finish via the obvious crack system. Strenuous climbing with mind boggling
positions.
Derrick
Van Meerbeeck and party 1963. Originally climbed as an aid route using home made
wood wedges [A2 Severe]
First
Free Ascent: Paul Ingham, Tony Marr
29th.September 1979. The old wedges had been removed from the route a
few weeks earlier but the team had to postpone their attempt until the roof
crack had dried. The weather was superb that September, even so the crack at the
start of the roof was still greasy and proved to be the crux. The route was
graded in typical Ingham fashion, “its
only 5c, and I suppose it just deserves extreme.” The boys were obviously
climbing well that day! 11. Direct
Route 18m A3 Start
4m to the right of the last route. Climb the wall to the overhang then follow
the thin crack across the roof (3 pegs). Escape up the final wall (2 bolts).
Chris
Woodall and party New Years Day 1964. Ascended in snowy conditions (ideal for
clearing a hangover).
Franco Cookson bouldering out the start to Direct Route. Photo: Dave Warburton
12. Last
of a Dying Breed 18m E2 5c Start
just right of the huge roof of Direct Route below a sandy corner. Make a
difficult move to start, and then climb to a rest place below the roof. Climb
over the roof and up the groove and crack above. Good climbing. Dave Paul, Steve Brown early 1980’s. 13. Every
Step of the Way 18m E3 5c Start
5m right of Last of a Dying Breed, below an obvious groove. Climb up the groove
for 10m. to an obvious sandy ledge [loose flake]. Traverse right beneath the
overhangs to a scoop. Swing right on to the arête and up a short groove to the
top. Bold. Dave Paul, Steve Brown early 1980’s. 14. Crowmagnon 40m E3 5c The
girdle traverse of the crag with some good situations and bold climbing. Start
at a shallow corner 3m to the left of El Lawrence. 1. 28m. 5c. Climb the shallow
corner and sloping groove above [peg runner] to gain a ledge on the right, [peg
runner]. Hand traverse the lip of the roof to gain El Lawrence [peg runner].
Move right to bolts, continue right again over grass to Terry’s Dilemma,
traverse the wall descending slightly, swing around the arête into Wedge Route.
Belay. 2. 12m. 5c. Climb down
rightwards across the green slab to gain ledges. From the right end of the
ledges, step down, continue the traverse, feet on top ledge, to gain a shallow
groove. Climb the groove to a bolt belay (in situ). Kelvin Neal, Alan Moss, Nick Dixon, early 1980’s. RIGHT HAND BUTTRESS The
right outcrop is 35m higher on the right of the main outcrop. Note:
The ground beneath the following climbs tends to be normally wet / boggy!
15. Humble
Crack 8m E3 5c Climbs
the obvious curving crack with an undercut base. A rest can be taken on the
ledge on the right side of the arête. Humble brothers 1963. Originally climbed with several points of aid [A1, V.S]. First Free Ascent, Paul Ingham September 1979. 16. Hank’s
Route 8m HVS 5a The
obvious corner groove 3m right of Humble Crack. Paul Ingham, Alan Taylor September 1979. Across
the gully to the right of Hank’s Route is a slabby wall. 17. Darlo
Special 7m HS 4b Climbs
the slabby wall via a crack. Pleasant climbing, but no
belay.
1980’s.
On the opposite side of the gully to Humble crack lies a steep wall with an obvious pocket....
18.
Tell Chris Craggs Nowt HVS 5b *
Franco Cookson on the first ascent of Tell Chris Craggs Nowt. Photo: Dave Warburton
Full details in the North East England Guide
|
