Map Reference: NY068015
Situation and Character
The crags face west overlooking open moorland. The rock is a hard compact
sandstone of variable quality. There is a good range of grades from Difficult to
E3. The climbs are mainly on two distinct buttresses separated by 60 metres of
broken rock. The North Buttress is up to 10 metres high with a large overhung
recess at its left end. The South Buttress has the best rock and is up to 8
metres in height and most of the routes can be soloed.
Approaches and Access
From Knowesgate on the A696 or the Bellingham crossroads on the A68, drive
to Sweethope Loughs and park beside the cattle grid. Walk in a westerly
direction for 100 metres along the road and follow the stone wall onto the moor
to reach the North Buttress after a 5 minute walk.
There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.
The overhang of Shot In The Dark was used for aid climbing practise in the 60's, at which time G Thompson did some unrecorded routes. Bob and Tommy Smith soloed what was probably Shot In The Dark in the 70's, but recording of routes had to wait until Malcolm Lowerson developed the crags during the summer of 1994. With the help of Jeff Breen and Trevor Iceton, some 27 lines have been recorded. Steve Crowe onsight soloed Natural Line in May 1995.
FIRST ASCENTS:
| Barrel | Malcolm Lowerson | 1994 | ||
| Endangered Species | Malcolm Lowerson, Trevor Iceton | 1994 | ||
| Lock | Malcolm Lowerson, Jeff Breen | 1994 | ||
| Natural Line | Steve Crowe | 4 | May | 1995 |
| Natural Selection | Malcolm Lowerson | 1994 | ||
| Shooting Gallery | Malcolm Lowerson, Trevor Iceton | 1994 | ||
| Shot in the Dark | Malcolm Lowerson | 1994 | ||
| Stock | Malcolm Lowerson, Jeff Breen | 1994 |
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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