NGR SD 992663, Approach 20 minutes, Altitude 300m, Aspect
South Facing
History
1960s
The overhanging walls of Dib Scar must have been an obvious attraction to the
early aid climbers. This mini amphitheatre provided an ideal practice ground for
pegging away from the spotlights of the more impressive, but much more public,
challenges of nearby Kilnsey, Malham and Gordale. It was here in 1961 that
members of the Skipton Caving Club, led initially by A. Smith and later by R.M
(Count) Wilkinson and Bob Garnett, bashed their way to glory and a place in
climbing history. Their Central Wall was a classic line and an extremely popular
aid route for the next 10 years. In 1963 the Barley brothers produced 4 free
climbs on the right wing. Highly acclaimed at the time, the initial popularity
of these climbs has, unfortunately, not been maintained. Stinging Cracks however
is still a compelling line near the upper limit of its grade. Various other aid
climbs were produced in the sixties but most have since been climbed free, only
Lockieflower remaining viable as a peg route in its own right.
1970s
Late in 1972 John Sheard made a significant attempt to free climb Central Wall
only resorting to aid to cross the initial roof and for a resting point near the
top. The rest point was soon removed and the climb quickly acquired semi-classic
status, with the bizarre jiggery-pokery required to get started becoming almost
legendary in some cases. In 1973 Andy Wild and Dave Musgrove forced the bold
White Rose and in 1978 Martin Atkinson freed Cauliflower to give an excellent
low-grade E4. Atkinson returned 3 years later with Derek Hargreaves to create
the traverse of Slow Worm Coming named after the creature that slithered off
into one of the cracks on the route. They also added some harder pitches to the
right of Central Wall.
1980s
In 1982 the significant event was the free ascent of the start of Central Wall
by Rob Gawthorpe, a feat rarely, if ever, repeated. The mid 1980s saw the last
major developments at Dib when Paul Greenland almost succeeded in freeing the
major aid climb of Left Wall. He renamed the route Final Demand but the first
totally-free ascent came from Chris Sowden. Since then little seems to have been
achieved, Sowden freed the remaining aid point from I Travel and Andy Moss
created a direct start to Cauliflower called Flower Power but the new bolts
which recently appeared in the roof to the left of Central Wall suggest that the
crag is by no means worked out yet.
1990s
Dave Musgrove added a number of bold traditional routes on the right wall during
the early 1990s with various partners. Many of these have since succumbed to the
retro bolt. 1994 saw two powerful routes tackle the steep roofs in the centre of
the scar. Jerry Peel and Dave Barton gave us The Fish and the Scales while Mark
Radtke and Dave Johnston climbed The Gemini Incident. On the right wall Chris
Hardy and Nadim Siddiqui enjoyed Passion and Warfare. It was Steve Judson with
Dean Eastman who left the most significant route of the 1990s when they climb
the stunning Symbols of my Soul in 1995.
2000s
Steve Coates and Paul Clarke kicked off the latest renaissance with Passion and
Busfare in 2003. Matt Troilett finally found a solution to the last great unclimbed line at Dib Scar to produce another
desperate climb. 2004 also saw the retro bolt arrive with a vengeance and many
of the mid grade extremes on the right wall are now low grade sport routes. Much
loose rock has been removed from these climbs but care still needs to be taken
on this wall, belayers beware!
Situation and Character
Dib Scar is a west-facing, very sheltered cove reaching a height of about 25
metres at the end of a small valley south-east of Conistone. Some of the routes
are prone to seepage, especially on the wings. The central wall has the best
quality rock and an awesome overhang/roof. The wings are somewhat less sound and
some care is needed. Limited bouldering is available on a small outcrop by the
footpath on the approach to the crag.
Approaches and Access
From Skipton or its by-pass take the B6265 towards Grassington, carry on
towards Kettlewell and turn off to Conistone village just before Kilnsey. There
is a limited bus service from Skipton to Kettlewell; get off in Kilnsey and walk
to Conistone. Cars can be parked in Conistone. Please show consideration to the
residents. From Conistone village follow the public footpath towards Grassington
and after walking gently uphill for about 20 minutes (passing through
five gates), the crag is on the right in the wooded
valley bottom. DO NOT walk directly up the valley from the
road. There is no right of way and several walls block the route.