Dove Crag
Map Reference
NZ 038986
Altitude 390m
North of North West Facing
History
Climbed on in the
nineties by Steve Crowe and Chris Graham but not recorded in the first edition
of the Northumberland Bouldering Guide. The addition of some newer, and harder,
problems by Chris Graham has made this a worthwhile summer venue.
Simonside from Dove Crag.
The Problems
The problems are described from left to right.
Open Book Buttress
1. Arête VB
SS. Climb the left arête.
2. Laughing Stock V2
SS centre of the wall with a tricky mantle to finish.
3. Eye socket V2
SS to the right side making a difficult pull off the ground with two ‘eyes’.
4. Heather Slab VB
The slab to the right has a heathery exit.
Summit Block
The next buttress lies 15m to the right, just below the main path.
5. For the Crowds V1
6. Tourist Trap V2
The wall to the right on rugosities.
7. Semi-Detached V1
If you really must climb the finger crack then please take care!
8. Detached V1
The flake/prow is slightly easier on its left side. Beware the loose block!
Central Slabs
A series of slabs leads rightward with a good selection of easy problems.
9. Easy Slab VB
The centre of this slab is quite easy.
10. Central Slab VB
The centre of this slab is reasonably easy.
11. Hardcore V2
The centre of the slab. Tricky finish.
12. Slab Arete V0
The right hand arête is trickier on the left. V1.
Dove Boulders
Below the main crag is a jumble of boulders which provide some interesting
but short problems. The best of these is a boulder split horizontally in two:
13. Show Me Your Funk V5
SS hanging a ledge on the bottom tier. Mantle the ledge to an awkward
position under the 2nd tier. Now show me your funk (Hint: a pair of knee bars
will do you proud)!
Viewpoint Block
Back on the crag, the next buttress has a pool below it in winter. Unless
otherwise stated, the problems start with hands on the obvious shelf circling
the buttress. Some excellent challenges.
14. The Scoop LH VB
The left side of the buttress.
15. The Scoop RH V1
The scoop direct.
16. NE25 V2
The overhanging NE arête. Good.
17. Viewpoint Wall V4
The centre of the north face is delicate.
18. NW1 V5
Start on the far right side of the shelf (taking care with the sandy rock).
Superb.
19. Too hard for the Mesolithic V7
SS on crimps above the lip. Pull up and round the bulge strenuously on
slopers. Excellent.
Capstone Buttress
The final buttress has a selection of interesting problems with a good
landing.
20. Sidewall VB
The East facing wall exiting left past the dubious block. SS is V0.
21. Capped Arête V3
SS to the arête. Exit right around the boulder.
22. Original Route V0
The centre of the wall.
23. Something New V3
SS. The wall 1m right again.
24. Testing Bloc V3
SS, up the slopey ledges to a rounded finish.
25. Final Arête V2
SS to the arête.
26. Final Wall VB
The centre of the wall.