Map Reference:
NT967368
An attractively situated ‘bouldering venue’ described as being of Fontainebleau quality! It is located just west of Goats Crag, and just a few minutes drive from the Milfield cafe where the latest topo (£3) and new route info is kept.
The original development was by Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell. All were climbed during 1990 and 1991 with no known previous development having taken place. The rock is sound with good landings. A knotted towel is recommended rather than even a soft brush.
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| Alien Buttock | Nellie | Fungus Ejaculate | The Monkey Face |
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| Alien Boulder | Moorish Idol | Stooges | Plop |
The Routes:
This
is predominantly a bouldering venue and all the boulder problems are included in
the NMC bouldering guide. The following were considered routes and were not
described.
Main Buttress
The best climbing is on the west wall of the largest block.
The routes are described from left to right.
1
Chicken Drumstick Legs
HVS 5a
*
The left arête is followed on the right side, moving round
left to finish.
Tim
Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell 1990/1991
2
Granddad Slap
E3 6a
***
The classic of the main buttress. Move right from the arête
to gain a flake crack. Follow this direct past pockets to gain flutes above.
Finish up these.
Tim
Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell 1990/1991
3
The ‘D.B.’
E1 5a
***
Start on the left hand side of the ledge. Pass overhangs on
the left to gain runnels. Follow these to the top.
Tim
Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell 1990/1991
4
Legal Loophole
E1 5b
*
Gain the hole direct from the ledge to gain the obvious
runnel. Step right and up to a break then up the wall above.
Tim
Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell 1990/1991
5
Too Hard for a Couch
E2 5b
**
From the middle of the ledge gain good holds above the
overhang. Use these to gain the flake crack. Finish up this moving right to a
ledge and the top.
Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell 1990/1991
FIRST ASCENTS:
| Granddad Slap | Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell | 1990 | ||
| Legal Loophole | Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell | 1990 | ||
| The 'DB' | Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell | 1990 | ||
| Too Hard for a Couch | Tim Gallagher, Simon Berry and Dave Barrell | 1990 | ||
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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Northumberland Bouldering update has more information for this crag