O.S. Sheet 99 NGR 113982

Aspect West

Altitude 220m

Approach time 3 minutes

A small limestone quarry immediately North of the village of Downholme. The useful part of the quarry consists of two faces of rough and solid limestone, Introductory Bay and Main Wall.

Although relatively small, the west facing and open aspect of this quarry contribute to make this an excellent place to visit for a short day or evening. At the time of writing the pub was well worth a visit too!

No recorded history exists,but the quarry was developed by members of the Swaledale Outdoor Club, and is regularly used by Catterick Garrison for training purposes. Over the period 1996 to 1998, Bob Bennett and Maggie White checked all of the routes,naming some where necessary.

From Richmond, take the minor road that runs East off the A6108 (Richmond to Leyburn road) approximately 1 kilometre South of the junction with the B6270 road to Reeth. The minor road leads into Downholme village where the Bolton Arms is passed on the left. Turn into 'public' parking on the left just after the Inn. From the parking place follow the lane which curves round to an old barn and housing. Go left through a gate just before the old barn (MOD signed at time of press) and follow a track for 100 metres until the quarry is seen on the right.

At present the MOD require all climbers to have written permission before visiting. Check with the BMC for the latest situation. At the time of press the MOD can be contacted on:

HQ Catterick Training Area, 01748 875507

Defence Estates, 01748 875046

The climbs are described from right to left.

Introductory Bay

This is the first small wall. The first two lines are Solo Route One, D and Solo Route Two, VD.

The first thin crackline.

The prominent crack in the right wall of the bay.

The corner dividing the right and central walls of the bay

Climb the middle of the central wall to an awkward finish.

The curving corner groove separating the left and central walls.

All of the three next climbs on this innocuous looking wall are much harder than they appear!

Start just left of Bumbler. Climb the wall direct on small widely spaced holds.

The Zig Zag crack up the middle of the left wall.

Climb the curving flake cracks towards the left side of the left wall

Left and up over the bank top is Main Wall.

Again, starting from the right.

Climb the centre of the slim wall set at an angle to the main wall

Climb the polished corner, which marks the right end of Main Wall

Climb the wall left of Big Boots by a shallow rounded groove.

Start 3m left of Big Boots at a short crack. Climb the crack arid wall above, trending right to a bold finish.

Climb the obvious crack 4m left of Big Boots with an awkward start.

Start 2m left of Line of Fire, below an overlap. Pull onto a ledge above the overlap (runner). Follow the good but unprotected wall above.

Climb the wall 3m left of Line of Fire to gain a left slanting crack. Step up and right to good holds then trend left from here to finish.

Just right of the central crack of El Capitain, the wall leads up to a peg below a small overlap. Climb straight up to this (good moves) on small holds passing another strange peg to easier ground.

The central crack line, the start of which has become more difficult because of the loss of a flake.

Gain the crack from the right with difficulty and follow it to the top.

Four metres left is a square flat, block embedded in the ground.

Start from the embedded block and follow the thin crack to a protruding peg and good nut above. Continue with difficulty to the top.

Start from the same flat block as "Sweet Pleasure" and climb a very thin crack direct to the small roof.  Pull over and climb the face above and just left of a tiny corner. 

Starts immediately left of Sweet Pleasure, and takes a direct line to finish up a small shallow corner below the right end of a grass-covered ledge. Easily at first to thin and poorly protected moves pulling right into the small corner. Finish straight above.

Start immediately left of Bitter Sweet. Climb the slabby wall then move slightly left to a quartz jug at the overlap. Pull over on two mini "tuffas" to the top.

Start 3m left of the embedded block, Climb easily up to the obvious small groove. Pass this with difficulty using holds out left to finish up the crack above. (Care with debris at finish)

Scrappy with an unpleasant finish. Start 2m left of Never Enough at a small overlap. Climb to a flake at half height and finish up the wall above.

Left of main wall is a small buttress in the form of a groove. Tank Tracks, D, takes the right rib, Colonel Blimp, VD, takes the groove itself and General Accident, S 4a, the steep left rib.

Turtles Head Traverse  HVS 5b

Best done from left to right:

The main wall can be split into three horizontal bands, roughly resembling a sandwich. The idea is to step onto the wall from left ('Southern Death Cult') at ground level and maintain this level as the wall drops down away to your right below you. Keep your feet at the join of the lower slice of bread and central filling and this leaves your face at about 1/2 to 2/3 height as you gingerly make your way along. Its pretty easy up until about 'Bitter Sweet' where there is a 4 metre section on particularly delicate holds until reaching the safety of 'El Capitan' - sparse footholds in particular as I recall (crux). The traverse continues at the same height before again finishing at ground level at 'Big Boots' in the opposite corner.

“The real skill is in gear placement. You are not far above the ground and with slack rope and spring - a collision with the uneven rocky floor is not unlikely. Micro nuts behind fraglie flakes and a couple of little friends

are helpful - but as to their chances of holding you.......? It can be supplemented by hanging a crab on the end of an abseil rope from the top at the sparser areas or even by trusting in the antique piton in 'Sweet Pleasure' (there used to be two - one disappeared in about 1996 – probably dislodged by a roosting sparrow) or perhaps the peg in 'Pas d'elle y Rhone que nous' (at the time of writing my Spectra thread on this peg dates from 1995). Of course - confident boulderers would probably just solo it all without a second thought!” Dave Middlemas

Graded List

E2

Bitter Sweet, 5c

D.E.W. line, 5b

Pas d’elle y Rhone que nous, 5b *

E1

Alistair, 5b

Sweet Pleasure, 5b *

HVS

Brown Stane, 5b

Tracer, 5b

Turtles Head Traverse  5b

Never Enough, 5a

Downholme Racer, 4c **

VS

Crystal Tipps, 5a

Facination Street, 4c

Best Bitter, 4c *

Southern Death Cult, 4c

Je cours tout seul, 4b