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East Woodburn (Staniel Heugh)

Map Reference: NY917873

Alt. 250m South Facing

Situation and Character
This is a compact south facing crag with good clean rock and some quality routes. It is on the hillside about 1 km north east of East Woodburn. The crag dries quickly and is climbable at any time of year.

Approaches and Access
Take the minor road north out of East Woodburn and turn right along a gated no through road, signposted to Blakelaw. This road passes under the crag. A couple of cars can be parked just past the crag at a wooden post, but take care not to block access onto the moor.
There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.

History

Gordon Thompson and John Grey climbed extensively here in the 1960’s and 1970’s and did most of the obvious lines, including Woodburn Wall, Ridsdale Wall and Capstone Direct. Unaware of this, Paul Linfoot and Andy Winter rediscovered the crag, climbed and renamed many of these routes and added Autobahn and Death Wish. Karl Telfer and John Gilhespy added the Arbitrator and the remaining lines were finished off with Oliver Went A Huntin’ and Autoerotic from Mark Savage.

The Climbs
The routes are described from left to right.
Several short routes of 4c-5b have been climbed on the walls to the left of the West Buttress.

West Buttress

0. Spent Force 8m HVS 5b

The pod and thin crack left of Old Ash Crack is climbed to an awkward move right. Continue more easily over the bulge above. It is also possible to move left at the top of the crack and bridge out to a pedestal (VS 5a and not as good).

SJH Reid, C King, 2/11/06

1. Old Ash Crack 9m D
 

2. A Fox For President 18m HVS 5a
 

3. Woodburn Wall 10m E1 5b **
Direct Finish E2 5c *
 

4. Oliver Went A Huntin' 12m E2 5c **
 

5. Ridsdale Wall 11m E1 5b **
 

6. The Arbitrator 11m E1 5b *
 

7. Foxey 11m VS 4c
 

Central Buttress
 

8. Papa Lazaroo 9m E3 5c
 

9. Autoerotic 11m E2 5c
 

10. Autobahn 10m E2 5c *
 

11. Green Slab 10m VD *
 

12. The Arête 10m HS 4b *
 

13. Green Wall 10m HVS 5b *
 

14. Patties Route 10m VS 5a
Climb the right hand side of the wall to a small runnel then step right and climb the short crack.
 

14b. Pedestal and Crack Climb 10m S

Climb flakes up the front of the pedestal right of Patties Route to a vegetated ledge. Finish up the thin crack in the wall on the left, just right of the crack of Patties Route.

SJH Reid, C King, 2/11/06

Capstone Buttress
The next buttress is capped by a large block, which forms an overhang on the eastern side.
 

15. Flying Scot 9m HVS 5a
 

16. Capstone Wall 10m E1 5b *
 

17. Death Wish 12m E1 5b
 

18. The Pandemonium Carnival 14m E1 5b
 

19. Capstone Direct 12m E1 5c *
 

20. Capstone Traverse 18m MS
 

21. Overhanging Heave 8m S 4c
 

East Buttress

22. Stilton 8m VD
 

23. Cheese Wedge 7m S
 

Far East Buttress

To the right of East Buttress is a buttress with a prominent juggy arête up the front.

24. Jugged Air 8m VD
To the right of East Buttress is Far East Buttress which has a prominent juggy arete up the front. Avoid the huge roof at the start by stepping onto it from the left, then climb the arete on jugs.
SJH Reid, C King, 2/11/06

25. Chimney and Roof Climb 7m VD
Far Far East Buttress, the furthest right buttress, has a huge roof overhanging a large free standing flake. Climb a chimney to gain the top of the flake and step onto the slab under the roof which is avoided on the left via a vegetated groove - pretty dire.
SJH Reid, C King, 2/11/06

26. Heave Ho! 5m VS 4c
Far Far East Buttress, the furthest right buttress, has a huge roof overhanging a large free standing flake. Short but spectacular. Gain a precarious standing position on the flake from the right and so reach a hold on the lip of the roof. Heave ho!
C King, SJH Reid, 2/11/06

FIRST ASCENTS:

East Woodburn Sketch Plan Diagram

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