Map Reference: NT 746010
Aspect: South East
Altitude: 497m
Approach: 40mins from Byrness
History
Gordon Thompson was very interested as he used to work the farm at Chattlehope for a few years and did every route/problem/variation up to around 6a(English Tech).
Situation and Character
The crag sits on top of the hill south of Catcleugh Reservoir. This crag is a peaceful venue with excellent trad route potential alongside great bouldering opportunities. Landings are usually good but the walk in is an epic effort! There are a dozen or so short routes and a conspicuous 9m high overhang which awaits an unaided ascent. A selection of boulder problems are described here: Ellis Crag bouldering by Betaguides.com (recently offline).
Access and Approaches
Complex route finding from Byrness leads through the forest and open moor to the crag. Good map reading and navigational skills essential! The easiest access is via forestry tracks from Cottonshopeburnfoot (quite a mouthful but that is the name of it !) where the Kielder Forest Drive starts (2 miles), the shortest is a desperate thrash uphill through the forest after crossing the Catcleugh dam (one and a half miles). There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.
1.Slab and Tickle Block
There are lots of problems to be had on this block, mostly V3 and upwards, a brush Is needed on the right hand side of the slab as the lichen is heavy; and the top outs are slopey and scary, Alternatively escape to the left.
2. Wakey Flakey Block
A flakey start to a lovely top out, great finishing holds. There are some hard projects on the left hand side. The roof can be started from the left hand end of the block. Sustained.
3. Pull on the Heather Slab
Nice warm up slab, eliminate holds, but only one way to top out!
4. Classic Dyno Block
This is a three star problem, just do it!
5. Falling Over
Two small pockets to a crimp, then smaller crimps on the slab above.
6. Plush Arête
If you dont Iike arête climbing this could change your mind. Its all positive, go for it.
7.Roof Area
This roof is serious! Top rope and check the holds before you attach the roof! A good series of problems under the roof that stay dry in the rain.
8. Bare Foot Block
The left hand side of this block has more holds than your local climbing wall, have fun. The right hand side has an excellent route. PulIing over the break from two small crimps straight up the middle is V7.
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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Ellis Crag Topo PDF Beta guides topo to bouldering at Ellis Crag.
For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.