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OS Map Reference NGR 662020, Landranger Sheet 94 Aspect West Altitude 310m Approach Time 25 minutes
The right hand side of the Esklets Photo David Warburton
Situation and Character This compact sandstone outcrop is situated at the head of Westerdale and offers a pleasant day’s climbing in a quiet and attractive valley. Routes have been recorded on a buttress about 200m left of the main crag near the fence but the best climbing is to be found on the main crag. Generally the rock is weathered and solid, but due to its lack of regular traffic there are still some doubtful blocks, which require care. The finishes to some climbs are dirty and it may be wise to check them out before embarking on anything too testing.
History Dave Pearson and John Biggins visited the crag prior to 1959. Crag End Wall, Bulging Wall, Holly Tree Wall, Dwarf’s Ear, Giant’s Ear, Green Chimney, and Green Slab, Left Unconquerable, Right Unconquerable, Deception Chimney and the Esklets Eliminate were all by Dave Pearson, and Easy Chimney was climbed by John Biggins. Green Slab’s Crack was also climbed at this time by persons unknown. No further activity was reported until 1976 when Tony Marr, Andrew Webb and Ken Jackson dispensed with the aid peg on Esklets Eliminate. Once again interest in the crag waned, but in 1980 the routes of Eskapade and Eskalation were added but the names of their first ascentionists are again unknown. Ian Dunn and Steve Tate made a visit in 1983 to climb the testing Slip and Fly and finally Steve Crowe recorded the eliminate Eskhew during a short editorial visit in April 1996.
Access and ApproachesFrom the A19, follow the A174(T) then the A173 to Guisborough. Take the bypass towards Whitby and turn right after Lockwood Beck Reservoir to Castleton. Continue south up Castleton Rigg to parking at Ralph Crosses GR676020. Walk due west passing Old Ralph, an ancient Norman cross, continue west for 25m (1km) across open moor land. A strip of woodland across the Esk Valley is a good point to aim for, as the crag will not be visible until one is almost on top of it. A compass is essential for this approach and more so, on the walk out. It is also possible to approach the crag from Waites House Farm along a public right of way in the Esk Valley. The crag lies on prime grouse moor, dogs are not allowed and large groups are to be discouraged. There have been access problems with this crag and it would be useful to report any difficulties to the BMC.
Crag End ButtressThe left end of the crag offers some easy possibilities up broken rock on a northwest-facing slab. The first four routes are suffering somewhat from a lack of traffic.
1. Crag End Wall 5m VD The climb lies on the wall immediately south of a tree. Ascend the steep wall on good holds. (A climb of similar standard can be made on the right hand side of the wall). Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959.
2. Bulging Wall 5m VD Start 3m south east of Crag End Wall at a corner. Climb the wall bearing right at the first ledge. Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959.
3. Easy Chimney 5m D The chimney 3m right of Bulging Wall. J Biggin’s. Prior to 1959.
4. Holly Tree Wall 5m D Start 10m right of Easy Chimney. Climb the slabs to the holly tree and then traverse above the tree. Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959. Main ButtressThis buttress provides some fine climbs. The next two recorded routes are at the left end of the main west face. They follow two impressive flakes above a ledge at 2m, and are well named.
4a. Eary Slab MS Climb the wall to the left of Dwarf's Ear. Poor finish. Franco Cookson 2007
5. Dwarf's Ear 6m S Climb the left hand flake. Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959.
6. Giants Ear 6m S * The second flake is 2m right. Layback the outside of the flake in its entirety, or, more awkwardly but better protected, climb the groove formed by the flake. Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959.
7. Eskapade 7m HVS 5b The groove 2m right of the Giant's Ear. 1980.
8. Eskalation 7m HVS 5c Ascend the overhanging groove 2m of Eskapade. 1980.
9. Eskhew 7m HVS 5c The undercut left arête of Green Chimney can be climbed direct. Steve Crowe. 16th April 1996.
10. Green Chimney 7m VD The chimney with dwarf oak at the top. Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959
11. Green Slab 7m S * The wall 3m right of the chimney, climb just left of the crack with long reaches between surprisingly good holds to gain a good ledge 2m below the top. Finish up Green Chimney or Green Slab's Crack. Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959.
12. Green Slab's Crack 7m S The crack immediately right of Green Slab. Prior to 1959.
To the right is a pair of cracks offering two fine routes.
13. Left Unconquerable 7m HS 4b Climb the crack passing a ledge. Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959.
13a. Esk Off HVS 5a Climb the wall to the right of 'Left Unconquerable'. An escape right at the final wall avoids a bad top. A flexible leg is useful. Franco Cookson 2007 solo
14. Right Unconquerable 7m VS 4c The more strenuous right-hand crack. Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959.
14a. Communication Breakdown VS 4c
Climb the wall to the right of 'Right Unconquerable'. Finish up the crack when
the roof is uncounted.
15. Deception Chimney 7m D The chimney 3m right of Right Unconquerable. Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959.
15a. The Wall Of Dooge HVS 5a Climb the wall right of Deception Chimney. Often Green. Franco Cookson 2007 solo
The tops of the following new routes are "dodgy" due to heather etc.
15a. Waiting for an Alibi 7m HS 4b Climb the twin cracks to finish direct. Caution as heather is dense at the top.
David Warburton & Franco Cookson 5/7/07 Climb the corner crack to finish up the awkward groove.
Franco Cookson & David Warburton 5/7/07
Climb the scoop via a slanted ledge, reach to
the break and finish direct. Good Protection. 16. Slip and Fly 7m E3 6b * The wall 2m left of the impressive undercut arête at the right end of the main face, climb past an ancient peg. Interesting climbing especially for those of a shorter disposition!Ian Dunn, Steve Tate. Summer 1982
17. Esklets Eliminate 7m HVS 5b * Start right of the impressive arête. Gain the nose then move left, continue up to the top. FA Dave Pearson. Prior to 1959. Peg for aid. FFA Tony Marr, Andrew Webb, Ken Jackson 7th June 1976
18. Dwarf's Ear to Esklets Eliminate Traverse HVS 5b** The traverse contains some good climbing, with the undercut arêtes being the crux's. The Traverse can be cut short at the Arete at VS 4c** Franco Cookson & David Warburton 5/7/07 probably done before but worthwhile. Graded List
E3Slip and Fly 6b
HVS Eskalation 5c Eskhew 5c Esklets Eliminate 5b * Eskapade 5bRoisin Dubh 5a **
VSRight Unconquerable 4c No More Heros 4c
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