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Eston Nab is probably the most unattractively situated crag in the North York Moors! Photo: Paul Cotton
OS Sheet 93 566183Aspect NNWAltitude 230m Approach time 20 minutes.
Situation and CharacterEston Nab lies immediately above the A174 (Parkway) above the town of Eston and it can easily be located beside a monument above the rocks. Eston Nab is probably the most unattractively situated crag in the North York Moors with impressive views of Teesside and the industrialised Tees Estuary. Greatest care should be exercised with equipment left at the bottom of routes. Watch out for broken glass.
Access and ApproachesThe crag is best approached by following the A174 to the roundabout just east of Eston. Follow the road back west towards Eston and take the first turning on the left (into a housing estate). Follow the road south until a small parking space can be found near to a footbridge over the A174. Cross this and ascend direct to the rocks passing some mine buildings.
HistoryEston Nab has been climbed on for many years certainly since the 1930s, but it was not until I. Hickman and T. Sullivan recorded a number of routes in the 1950s that its potential was realised. Soon after the 1961 guide C. Fixter and E. Marr climbed many of the remaining blanks. A few routes were recorded during the 1980’s. Including Fingertip Masochism by Greg Humble and Franz Weldon and Ogri by Rawlings and Appleby. The Monument itself has been climbed by a route on the back wall at E1 5b.
Bare FaceThis is a steep wall approximately 75m right of where the footpath reaches the crag. The face can be defined by a line of boltholes in the middle of the wall and a prominent zigzag crack on the right. There are numerous problems on the rocks left of Bare Face, these were recorded in a previous edition of this guide but due to rock falls and the shortness of the routes they have been found unworthy of inclusion. Nearly all obvious lines fall below severe.
1. Fingertip Masochism 5m HVS 5c On an isolated rock at the far left-hand side of the crag there is a blank wall with two boltholes. Climb past the boltholes. Finish via a pinch grip. Greg Humble, Franz Weldon 1980s
2. Chaser Chimney 5m D The obvious corner crack to the left of the Bare Face.
3. Bare Face Robbery 5m HS 4b A good route that starts right of Chaser Chimney. Climb the wall direct.
4. Small Holding 5m HVS 5b Climb the wall right of Bare Face Robbery using two chipped bolt holes to reach a break. Climb the wall above.
5. Zigzag 5m S The crack right of Small Holding.
6. When Carlos Strums His Banjo 5m HVS 5b From-the start of Zigzag step right. Climb the arête and slab to the top.
A direct start still waits to be claimed!
7. Introductory Slab 5m M The slabs 3m right of Zigzag.
8. Pirate Ridge 5m D Start right of skull and crossbones carved in the rock. Climb ridge and overhanging block at the top.
9. Orange Peel 4m HVS 5a Climb the wall 1m right of Pirate Ridge. Holds have snapped off here and the rock requires care.
10. Communism 4m VS 5a Start 1m right of Orange Peel in a corner left of a small overhang. The corner is climbed with difficulty.
North Face
11. Oliver’s Overhang 4m MVS 4c The corner to the right of Communism and the wall above.
12. Bilberry Crack 5m D The short crack 3m right of Oliver’s Overhang.
13. Staircase 6m M 2m right of Bilberry Crack go diagonally left up the wall.
14. Stair Carpet 6m D Start as for Staircase but go diagonally right up the wall.
15. Simplex 6m HVD Start 3m right of Staircase. The wall is climbed on small holds.
Great Wall
16. Peleton 7m VS 4c The obvious corner crack is climbed throughout. A good route.
17. Too Simplex 8m VS 4c Start 2m right of Peleton at a flake. Climb the wall direct passing a ledge.
18. The Bobet Traverse 22m HVS 5a Start 10m right of Peleton at the junction of the North and West faces of the Great Wall. Climb the edge obliquely to the start of Peleton. Traverse the obvious horizontal ledge to the right, turn the corner, move right until it is possible to drop down onto a large flake. Follow this into the corner capped by an overhang and finish by climbing the right hand side of the overhang.
19. Brown Sugar 10m VS 4c Climb the obvious corner crack approximately 7m right of the corner. Ascend the crack and the wall above. This route certainly lives up to its name!
20. Grandstand 15m HVS 5b Start as for Brown Sugar. Climb this route until a line of pockets can be followed left to the arête. Finish up this.
21. Great Chimney 10m HVD The obvious flake and chimney route in the centre of the West face. Start up the flake to a large ledge, and climb the awkward chimney above.
22. Mercier 10m HVS 5a Start right of the Great Chimney. Ascend the wall to the top of the flake. Move right and ascend direct.
23. Ogri 10m HVS 5a The wall right of Mercier is climbed direct. Rawlings and Appleby 1980s
24. Maillot Jaune 10m VS 4c * Start in the corner right of Mercier. Climb up to the final overhang. Move out left to finish.
25. The Other 10m HVS 5a * Climb the crack right of Maillot Jaune into a niche. Move up to an undercling, make an exposed traverse right around the roof and climb the hanging corner to the top.
To the right of The Other is a severely overhanging wall. This has an obvious line of peg-scarred cracks running up it. Old pegs are in place for protection but it is uncertain if the route has been led free.
It has now...
"I was
out at Eston Nab today and climbed the overhanging wall to the right of The
Other. It goes at a pumpy (but safe with the pegs) E4 6b. It is a bit
sandy at the bottom but the upper moves are really lovely and dynamic." 26. MA 10m VD The obvious gully 8m right of Maillot Jaune finishing up its right fork. The left fork is Severe and very sandy.
27. Crack and Flake 10m D The crack and flake 3m right of MA.
Across the grass slope is: -
Tripartite Wall
28. Mafac 10m E1 5b The left hand of the two obvious chimneys. Start in the cave and climb the crack in the roof.
29. Mafac’s Right Hand 10m HVS 5a The crack just right of Mafac is climbed. Finish to the left or direct.
30. The Grippa 10m E1 5b Start 2m right of Mafac below an overhanging scoop, climb the scoop with difficulty to a ledge, step left and follow the crack to the top.
31. Via Maria 8m S Start up corner to right of right-hand chimney, up the corner, till a traverse left can be made up again to finish.
32. Lliwedd Crack 8m S Start as for Via Maria. Climb the outside of the chimney.
33. Concrete Crack 8m S Climb the crack 2m right of Lliwedd Crack.
34. Scoop Crack 8m MVS 4b Climb the overhanging corner 2m right of Concrete Crack.
Zero Wall
35. Udda 10m HVS 5a Start as for Zero Traverse and climb direct to the top.
36. Combined Ops. 10m HS 4b The crack in the centre of Zero Wall.
37. Zero Traverse 10m HS 4b Start as for Scoop Crack and traverse to Combined Ops. Finish as for that route.
Watchtower Buttress
38. The Watchtower 6m HS 4b Start up the diagonal crack and leave it for the undercut buttress above. The left arête is followed to the top at 4b.
39. Bennison’s Chimney 6m HVD Climb the diagonal crack and vegetated chimney above.
40. Bennison’s Crack 6m HVD Climb the thin crack 3m right of Bennison’s Chimney. Finish as for that route.
41. PA 6m MS Climb the short arête 7m right of the previous route.
42. Pafrendo 6m S Start at the arête as above. Move right and ascend the twin crack to the top.
43. Pafrendo Direct 6m VS 4c Start at the thin crack 2m right of the ordinary start. Climb the crack direct and finish as for the ordinary route.
Wilton Corner
44. Crystal Wall 6m S Immediately to the left of the undercut wall. Climb obliquely to the left on crystal holds.
45. Crystal Crack 4m S From a ledge on the left step onto crystal wall and climb the central crack.
46. Wilton Wall 6m HS 4b Start as for Crystal Wall. Climb straight up on good holds after an awkward start. A sandy scoop leads to potholes and then on to the top.
47. Vandal 6m VS 5a Centre of the overhanging wall is a bolthole. Use this and a sandy hold above to reach the obvious jug. Finish up the wall above on better rock.
48. Trog 4m HS 4b Climb the right arête of Wilton Wall.
49. Trustee Traverse 8m VS 4c Up Trog to the break, then traverse across the wall to the arête high on the left – finish up this.
About 8m right of Wilton Corner is an isolated buttress with two routes.
The Secret Wall
50. Secret Groove 4m HVS 5c Ascend the obvious groove with difficulty.
51. Unknown Buttress 4m HS 4b Start 2m right of Secret Groove. Ascend the curving crack on delicate holds.
Bouldering
Climber above Eston Nab Photo: Lewis Dale |
