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"The other week we
went to "the other side" and found much better rock with only some graffiti
showing signs of previous use. We climbed 5 lines recorded below. I don't know
the etiquette concerned with climbs that have only been top roped not led yet
and the naming of these?" Mark Atkinson June 2005 Location - NZ 291 441 The section we found
is part of the 250 meter crag and is amazing if not challenging to get there.
The crag is situated in woodland up from the wear. On reaching larger blocks next to the path head up. The first wall can be identified by the large peace symbol right of manic crack. Descent is quickest off to the right down Hammond’s descent
Climbs are described left to right. 1. Better than cake 8m S Left of the ladder of lithium, start on the broken block and ascend up the groove. Led Stephen Welch Se Mark Atkinson
2. The Ladder of Lithium 8m VS 4c The wall just left of Manic Crack TR Stephen Welch
3. Manic Crack 8m HVD Follow the prominent wide crack in the centre of the crag. Led Stephen Welch Se Mark Atkinson
4. Crackers 8m HS 4b Follow the thin crack line slightly left of the peace symbol Led Stephen Welch Se Mark Atkinson
5. Peace 8m VS 4c Good holds up the blank wall through the peace symbol TR Mark Atkinson
6. Mussolini’s Groove 8m HVS 5a Up the short corner then grove right of peace. TR John Yardley
7. Looks easy, doesn’t it? 8m S 4b Left of the arête, gain the flake to finish left of the tree. Led John Yardley Se Mark Atkinson
8. Dirty Mac 6m VD The unattractive corner left of Hammond’s descent, leads to a tree which may or may not help Led Mark Atkinson Se Stephen Welch
9. Hammond’s Descent 6m M The short corner marking the end of this wall and is quickest route of decent
Soloed Ian Hammond |
