Map Reference: NU046022
History
Bouldering at these rocks was systematically developed during 2001 by the
usual suspects (Bob Smith, the Earls et al) and John Dalrymple, with Andy Earl
topping things off with his V12 (Font 8a+) problem Desperado.
Situation and Character
The crag is a south facing collection of boulders and small buttresses at
the western end of the escarpment overlooking Rothbury. It is known to have been
visited on a number of occasions, but nothing seems to have been recorded. The
place is well worth a short evenings bouldering, or it can be combined with the
Quarry and Ship Rock in a circular walk from Rothbury. The extensive earthworks
you cross as you approach the crag are the remains of the Old Rothbury Iron Age
hillfort.
Approaches and Access
The rocks lie at the top of the hillside above the western end of Rothbury.
Follow the high level road up and along the hillside from opposite the County
Hotel at the west end of the main street in Rothbury. Continue due west and park
in layby’s near the post box. This is the same as for the Quarry. The right of
way to the crag starts a little strangely and isn’t signposted. About 100m back
past the quarry some steps stick out of the wall next to a house entrance gate.
These lead to a very narrow path between the houses. Go along this and then up
and left through the wood, between another wood and some rocks (yet more
bouldering!) and on to Gimmerknowe farmhouse. An obvious track then leads up
through a gate and onto the hillside. Paths lead through the head deep bracken
to the rocks. An alternative and easier approach is to go through the quarry and
continue into the field below the crag, then go round the back of the house to
join the track up towards the crag. Although not a right of way, there have been
no reported problems using this path. There is a right of access to the rocks
under CroW. No dogs please.
The Problems
There are some good quality problems across the grades on good rock, but
there’s not quite enough of it. The problems are on 5 buttresses on the
hillside. They are described from left to right
Twin Deck
The obvious two tiered buttress just right of the birch wood.
A
bountiful collection of jugs and breaks on the overhanging Lower Deck give a
good V3 workout.
1. V3
Traverse the break.
There are 5 problems on the Upper Deck.
2. V3
The left hand end from a heel hooked sitting start.
3. V3
The wall between the left hand end and the crack, sitting start from the flake
feet on the flakes under the overhang.
4. V1
The crack is reached from a sitting start just to the right.
5. VB
The wall half way between the crack and the right hand end from a sitting start,
feet on the plinth at the back.
6. VB
The right hand arête from a sitting start.
High Buttress
The higher buttress to the right has a couple of solos, but no problems.
The Cave
The cave has a good warm up traverse.
7. V5
To the left coming out to two small edges on the lip and then a big move to gain
the break (the large protruding ledge not allowed).
8. Gimmerknowe Crack V3/4
The classic line is from the ledge under the roof out through a crack.
9. V6
Dead centre of the roof just right of the Gimmerknowe Crack coming out to make
difficult moves above the lip is excellent.
The Neb
An obvious feature in the centre of the crag.
10. Desperado V12
Sitting start in the cave to the left of The Neb, move out on crimps and up the
wall.
11. The Flake V3
The flake crack in the right hand wall of The Neb.
Leaning Wall
The overhanging wall has one good problem on the west facing square cut
wall.
12. V3
SS moving up past an incut pocket and a sloping ledge.
4c Buttress
The triple buttress above and to the right of Leaning Wall. Everything is
about 4c in old money!
13. VB
The wall immediately to the left of the block in the centre of the buttress.
14. VB
The left hand arête of the block in the middle of the buttress.
15. VB
The centre of the right hand buttress.
16. VB
The right hand wall on the side of the buttress.
Gibsons Boulder
The obvious boulder at the top right hand end of the crag.
17. V2
The centre of the wall, without using the arête.
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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