Map Reference: NT985362
A compact buttress in a sheltered position in trees and
rhododendron bushes. There is no agreement with the landowner and CLIMBING IS
CURRENTLY STRICTLY FORBIDDEN.
Were climbing allowed, you would get there by following the unclassified road
between Milford and Lowick to Roughting Linn and park opposite the farm track.
Follow the road south towards Fenton for about 400 metres and the crag lies
across a couple of fields on the left.
1. Cockchafer Crack 9m VS 5a
The left hand crack. Quite pokey.
2. The Dungeon E6 6a **
Start beneath the left hand side of the main overhang. Gain an obvious boss
and move onto the overhanging wall, making awkward and airy moves to finish on
good holds directly above.
3. The Hesitant Roofer E3 5c **
Start as for The Leaf moving up to the obvious roof. Make long reaches over
the roof and an awkward move left to finish.
4. The Leaf 11m E1 5c
The overhang between the cracks is climbed at the obvious break.
5. Cricket Crack 9m MVS
The right hand crack.
6. Gamekeeper Crack 8m HVS 5a
The crack on the right hand side of the crag.
FIRST ASCENTS:
|
The Dungeon |
Tim Gallagher |
20 |
October |
1991 |
|
The Hesitant Roofer |
Tommy Smith, Tim Gallagher |
20 |
October |
1991 |
For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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