Map Reference: NT975371
Situation and
Character
Goats Crag is an exposed and quick drying sandstone
outcrop with two small quarries near by. The outcrop lies on Goatscrag Hill,
east of Ford Village. The situation is splendid, with views of the Cheviots and
the Milfield Plain to the south and west. The rock is coarse-grained,
occasionally brittle sandstone with more compact sections near the base. The
natural edge consists of a series of buttresses, often overhanging and generally
well supplied with holds, and pockets. Due to its south facing nature it is
often a suntrap on good winter days and it makes a rewarding venue especially
when combined with other local outcrops.
Approaches and Access
The crag is best reached from the A697 by turning right just before Milfield
or from the A1 by following the B6353 Lowick road. Access from the A697 is to
take the unclassified road through Kimmerston to Roughtinglinn (a well known
archaeological site of cup and ring marks and a scenic waterfall). From Lowick
continue for half a mile after the junction with the B6111 then turn right to
reach Roughtinglinn. A limited amount of parking exists opposite a farm track by
a small plantation. Follow this track on foot to the farm which lies directly
beneath the crag. At present a good relationship exists with the farmer; to help
maintain this it is ESSENTIAL that visitors ask permission before climbing. No
large groups please. During spring and early summer access may be withheld or
restricted to the quarries because of nesting birds.
There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.
FIRST ASCENTS:
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Belford Chip Shop |
Andy Moss |
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Bull Dozer |
Calum Mayland, Cliff Robson, J Ashdown |
5 |
November |
1995 |
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Bull Wall |
John Earl, Bob Hutchinson, Dennis Lee and Ian Cranston |
1972 |
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Convoy |
Bob Smith, Paul Stewart and John Earl |
5 |
January |
1980 |
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Double Trouble |
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Flyover |
Graham Telfer, Karl Telfer and Joe Gilhespy |
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Guano Groove |
Bob Hutchinson, John Earl, Dennis Lee and Ian Cranston |
1972 |
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Imminent Break Crisis |
Andy Moss and Colin Murley |
|
|
1987 |
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Juggernaut |
Paul Stewart, Bob Smith and John Earl |
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Kangaroo Court |
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Lost Arete |
Bob Smith |
5 |
January |
1980 |
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Muffin Man |
Steve Nagy |
|
|
1990 |
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Overdrive |
Bob Hutchinson |
1 |
October |
1977 |
|
Ruth Route |
Karl Telfer, Graham Telfer and Joe Gilespy |
November |
1988 |
|
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The Dagger |
John Earl and Bob Hutchinson |
14 |
January |
1973 |
|
The Dagger Direct Start |
John Earl |
|
|
1977 |
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The Dungeon |
Tim Gallagher |
20 |
October |
1991 |
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The Hard Shoulder |
Bob Smith |
1 |
July |
1981 |
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The Hesitant Roofer |
Tommy Smith, Tim Gallagher |
20 |
October |
1991 |
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Triangular Slab |
Bob Hutchinson, John Earl, Dennis Lee and Ian Cranston |
1972 |
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Twin Cam |
Bob Smith, Paul Stewart and John Earl |
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Undercarriage |
Bob Smith, Paul Stewart and John Earl |
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Underpass |
Steve Blake |
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Wool Ball |
Bob Hutchinson, John Earl, Dennis Lee and Ian Cranston |
1972 |
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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