Gogarth by Andy Newton, Andy Pollitt, Steve Haston, Paul Williams, Mike Gresham, Ian Smith (Reprinted 2003)
Published by the Climbers' Club: Click here to visit the CC website
"There are whole zawns, which aren't covered in the old guidebook. For those of us who have done a lot of climbing at Gogarth, but aren't so local that we know every little nook and cranny, a new guide would stimulate us into going and having some new adventures. Guidebooks are inspirational, especially to younger climbers. I spent hours in my yoof pouring over the 1991 guide. The development of Zen Zawn, for example, with the photos of Big George barring across Bar Fly and a description of The Henious Flytrap (which Crispin Waddy said was the best new route he'd ever done) are memories in old copies of High magazine. These things deserve to be in a guide to inspire the current generation. The 1991 guide is of a different era, when the sweeping walls of North Stack and L Hand Red Wall symbolised the cutting edge. A new guide would not just point you at popular routes, but celebrate ferretting around in the backs of zawns and discovering an unlikely piece of quartzite architecture, beckoning in the darkness." Tom Briggs read more on UKC forums.
To contribute to the new online guide visit http://gogarth.wetpaint.com
Selected climbs on The Upper Tier, Gogarth
Gogarth Main Cliff (rough) Topo Its not fantastic or very accurate but helped me get me head around what crossed what and when.
Check the BMC Regional Access Database for Gogarth. In the main the ban runs from the 1st February to 31st July.
New Routes:
Dead and Bloated E6 6c 35m.
A direct finish to Strike. Safe. Follow Strike to the shake out. Step right and climb the wall past 4 pegs to a difficult exit onto the sloping top. Finish easily.
G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (7/7/94).
Sex and Religion E7 6c 35m.
The obvious left hand finish to Blackleg. Sustained climbing with poor protection. More serious then Panorama. Follow Blackleg past the flakes to a good nut placement. Move up and left to a poor peg. Continue with difficulty to gain the vertical crackline above and follow this to join Strike. Finish up this.
G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (26/7/93). (on-sighted by Caff, 2003).
Blackleg - worth E5 6a (P.R).
Barbarossa - Peg gone, now a lot bolder (P.R & Caff).
B.Bransby freed aid point on Noddy, years ago, but rested higher up. Done in mistake for Winking Crack.
Peg missing on Street Survivor.
Afreet Street - worth E5 (P.R).
Greg's Wall (?) E3 5c 53m.
Juggy blob hauling and pinching up the wall between Afreet Street and Fail Safe. Start as for Afreet Street, stepping left onto the ramp of Fail Safe. Follow the curving undercut feature, past a good small wire, then go straight up the wall to an obvious large chickenhead ledge. An exciting mantle onto this leads to a groove and flared crack which takes you to the exit move of Fail Safe and its belay. The second pitch of Energy Crisis gives a balanced finish.
Tim Neill, Jon Garside, Sue Savage. (31/5/02).
Main Cliff
Achilles E3 50m.
The obvious crack left of Diogenes. Start as for Diogenes.
1 10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.
2 40m. 5c. Climb the crack to a big flake at 17m. Step right and make hard moves to gain a wide crack, which leads strenuously to the final moves of Diogenes.
Pat Littlejohn, John Mothersele. (9/91).
Coming on Strong E6 50m.
The immaculate orange face left of Archilles. Sustained climbing in the upper part. Start as for Diogenes.
1 10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.
2 40m. 6b/c. Climb the slabby face left of Archilles, then bear right till beside the big flake on that route. Move left and up a groove to an overhang, then break back right to a rest spot. Climb the twin cracks left of Archilles to a peg, then launch up left on a shallow ramp to another thin crack. Pull past the bulge on the right until good holds lead up the final face.
Pat Littlejohn, Mark Diggins. (10/91).
Lardvark E3 6a 37m.
Start up Imitator to small overlap. Surmount it and climb a little finger crack to join Aardvark just below it's crux. Do this and continue straight up a thin crack above to the top.
M.Crook, Rich Cutler. (6/93).
Return to Garth Gog E4
1 23m. 6a. Climb the overhanging crack in the front face of the Gogarth Pinnacle. Well protected but strenuous.
2 6a. Start in the crack of Falls Road and after 8 metres, climb up and right via sloping holds to the right hand side of a sloping ledge.
3 4c. Ramble and climb to the base of Gogarth, pitch 4 (the big corner).
4 50m. 5c. Climb the obvious flaky crack to its junction with the top pitch of Gogarth. Finish as for Gogarth.
M.Turner, L.Thomas, Graham MacMahan. (11/94).
Eraserhead - 2nd pitch is about 20m and easy E6. (P.R)
Wall of Fossils - First pitch worth 6b, second pitch is crap and very eliminate (P.R & Caff).
Mammoth - Direct Finish
3 40m. 6a. Up the short wall as for Dinosaur, then go straight up the open corner above and continue direct to the top.
Eddie Cooper, P.Littlejohn. (21/5/95).
Extinction E8 6b 30m
Takes the wall right of Hunger. Climb the wall immediately left of the chimney (Mammoth Direct) until it is possible to move left and up to a flake with good runners. Move left along the obvious line to a spike and runner, crux moves lead straight up to another spike and then to a peg where improving holds lead up past the roofs to a wild finish.
Steve Mayers (25/4/91).
(Climbed ground-up over a few days by Stuart Cameron and confirmed at E8, 26/7/93,Still one of the few ground up E8 ascents in the UK).
Food E6 6b 30m
Start up Graduation Ceremony and climb direct up the awesome groove, through a roof (last gear), and left on to the rib and up this to the Citadel Belay.
Paul Prichard, Ben Prichard. (on-sight).
Drink E5 6b 27m.
This pitch is the obvious second pitch to Food. From the sloping ledge at the base of the main pitch of Big Groove, climb up the next groove to the right, going left into a niche after a bit, then back right to the original groove and up to the top.
A.Wainright, C.Waddy. (on-sight). (27/5/92).(Amendment: Hold come off, making it E6 and it is now necessary to climb up the right side of the groove, instead of moving left as first described - Adam Wainright).
Food and Drink E6 6b,6b
Combination of the above. G. Farquhar and N. Craine, 1993
Sebastopol - on 2nd pitch, traversing left to arête is hard. Going back
right is easy. (P.R)
Graduation Ceremony worth E5.
The Tet Offensive - 2nd pitch worth 6a and bold (P.Littlejohn?)
The Wastelands - new 2nd pitch description:2 6a. This pitch climbs the very hairy wall to the left of The Big Groove. Trend up and left on good holds to some flakes. Step right into a thin crack and make difficult moves, poor peg, to a junction with Puzzle Me Quick. Ascend the left-facing groove and exit right, around the arête, onto the hairy slab. Escape right into The Big Groove, nut belay.
On the 3rd pitch of Morphine, climb 2m right of Pentathol, not 5m.
The Night Prowler HVS 45m.
1 8m. 4c. As for Scavenger, pitch 1.
2 37m. 5a. Follow Scavenger Direct for 16 metres to an obvious overlap. Step up and left to the base of a steep crack which is followed on good holds until it is possible to step left into the bottom of the Nightride chimney/groove. Finish up this.
Pete Greening, Nick Sharp. (5/7/95).
Easter Island Gulley
Catalogue Man's Big Adventure E3 5c 33m.
Essentially a left hand finish to Rotten Gut. Climb up Rotten Gut to the yellow rock then break left and make a gnarly move over a roof. Continue on suspect rock for 7m and step left before a wall of green lichen. Finish up adjacent E1.
Mat Smith, Ray Saunders.
(21/5/94)
The Ragged Runnel E5 6a 50m.
A good adventure through 'territory'. Ascend the first pitch of Wandering wall, free climbing past the fishing rod manoeuvre (possible stance here). Arrange some protection and battle with the roof. Place some more good gear round on the wall above before the legs collapse, then go up the shattered dyke to a rest on a tiny ledge. Continue up the disintegrating scoop above past a possible spike belay. The top requires some care. (It would be possible to escape onto the Wonderwall side of the zawn after the easier ground is reached). Belay well back on the path down to the zawn. The route in no way supersedes Wandering Wall, it is merely an alternative exploit for those without fishing rods.
G.Smith. (on-sight, completely in bulk). (28/8/91).
Wen Slab Area
Variation to the second pitch of A Dream of White Horses. E1 5a. Descend from the second belay (first belay for the shorter variation) for 5 metres whilst completely ignoring the obvious line of holds which constitute the actual route! When halfway down to the Wen ledge, notice a tenuous line of white flakes leading leftwards. Climb on frail rock with laughable protection until you reach the corner. Go up this to meet the third pitch of 'Deram', one third of the way along, passing a dodgey hanging flake. Belay.(2/9/95).
Rubble E7 83m.
The softest route in the world. The concrete chimney that Concrete Chimney climbs 3m of. The most obvious line at Gogarth.
1 33m. 6a. Super step out of the cave at the bottom on the finest of Welsh pebble dashing. Move left out of the concrete to belay at the end of T-Rex, pitch 1. Appalling protection.
2 27m. 6a. Follow T-Rex to the huge ceiling and go through the right end of this past the hanging flange of death (crucial RP 1) to join Concrete Chimney and belay.
3 23m. 5a. Done before - E1 chimney in sensational position.
Paul Prichard, Leigh McGinley (AL). (on-sight). (10/91).
Games Climbers Play, Original Start - Bold start, worth E6 6b. (Twid &
P.R)
(It's a) Broad Church E6/7
1 6a. Start at a groove left of the start of Games Climbers Play. Go up the groove to a bulge. Swing left and go up to a peg belay.
2 6b. Hard work allows progress up the groove, past a peg and a worthog, to a rest. Reluctantly carry on and swing right to belay on Games Climbers Play.
3 5c. Climb up, over a bulge, to a belay on the slab on A Dream of White Horses.
4 6a. Go up and left and pull through a roof (just left of The Golden Bough Finish) to gain the top.
Nick Dixon, Noel Craine
(AL). (2/5/97).(Reliant on in-situ gear and carabiners: E6 if good, E7 if not -
P.R & B.Bransby)
Variation left hand first pitch to Broad Church - F.A:
N.Dixon. (No details).
Mister Softy E6 80m
A fine outing up the back wall of the zawn. Start at the base of the obvious pillar approximately 10m left of T Rex.
1 15m. 5b. Climbs the obvious pillar to a small overlap. Pull over this into a decomposing groove and follow this to a disappointing stance, old pegs.
2 40m. 6b. Move left into a groove (passing 2 old pegs) and climb up and right onto a hanging slab. Follow this to more old pegs, rest. Weird moves leftwards and upwards bail round an arête into a groove. Follow this, where angels tread to fear. Upwards and leftwards to join the Janitor finish, halfway along it's traverse. Belay here.
3 25m. 6a. Climbs the obvious groove above to a deep slot. Traverse recklessly leftwards to a short hanging groove. From the top of this, exit rightwards onto the Dream of White Horses slab. Finish up this with disconcerting difficulty.
A.Wainright, G.Smith (AL). (ground up). (30/8/94).
The Mad Brown E7
A fabulous expedition up the loosness left of Mister Softy. None of the pitches are excessively serious or difficult.
1 6a/b. Climb the first 7 metres of Mister Softy to a large fin. Swing round left and cross the wall on good holds to gain a straight crack leading to a roof. Surmount this to gain a wide crack and good resting holds. Traverse left and stupidly enter the huge hole. Belay on in-situ ice pegs and a cam 4.
2 6b. Move out left, peg runners, and grasp a suitcase shaped thread block. Good holds lead up to a crack. Slap for the short arête on the left and gain the slab above with difficulty. In-situ ice peg belay and some arbitrary cams etc.
3 5b. Follow the Conan traverse to belay on the in-situ thread, just right of the pegs. Good belay.
4 6a. Follow the top pitch of Mister Softy for 7 metres, up the wide-open groove to a good spike and arrange protection. Step down and swing left round a fin to gain diagonal cracks. Go up to an obvious hand jam and left into a niche, peg runners. Exit the niche, left to attain a sloping boss. Cross the headwall leftwards for 5 metres to better holds in the mosail choss. Go straight up the shallow groove in obscure holds to the roof. Surmount this in a position of sensational rope drag.
G.Smith, A.Wainright (AL). (1996).Notes: The first two pitches would be difficult to escape from. One possibility would be to trail an abseil rope, though this may dislodge loose stuff from the lip, without great care.
Conan the Librarian - Janitor's Finish worth E6 6b,6a.
Conan the Librarian E7
2a 36m. 6b. The original 2nd pitch now climbed free past the pegs but then a finish slightly leftwards was made to avoid area of rockfall (utilising the stance on The Unridable Donkey, which has now been cleaned up, is probably the best option).
Steve Mayers, Grant Farquhar (1992)
The Undertaker E7 6c
A direct start to Conan the Librarian, starting 7m around to the right of the original, under the arch. Belay on a ledge, accessible approximately 2hrs after high tide. It takes the obvious wide crack until a swing left on a spike can be made to a peg which can be backed up by RP's. Swing out wildly across the roof to gain the base of the Conan groove and continue as for that route.
Steve Mayers, Grant Farquhar. (1992).
Instant Van Goch E5 6b 23m.
A delightful trip up the painted wall, underneath Wen Zawn arch (faces west). From the 'dam', step onto the wall and climb diagonally left on magnificent holds to a good rest. Venture up and right, past two pegs, to gain an enormous undercling. From this, lunge for the very dubious looking block and continue in the same line leftwards to a huge spike. Lower off. Magnificent varied climbing and so forth.
G.Smith, James Harrison. (1996).
The Criptic Rift
The Wild Underdog E7 6b/c
The flake line right of Evidently Chickentown. Start up that route, follow the chimney to the bulge at it's crux. Step down and right for 3 metres to a ridiculous 1m2 slab on the arête. Grasp the huge flake and bar relentlessly into the hanging groove. Loosely ascend this to a large thread in the roofs above. A remarkable route.
G.Smith. (7/96).
Evidently Chickentown - (Hard for E5, confusing route description but
good - B.Bransby)
Friday's Extendable Arms E2 5c
A useful and exciting alternative start to Britomartis when the state of the sea would involve an enema climbing round into the groove from the ledge. Start in the base of The Trap. Move left to a hold on the left arête and continue steeply on good holds to the ledge (joining Gobbler's Arête). Continue up to the second diagonal ledge and move left around the arête to find an immaculate hand traverse leading across the face to join Britomartis about halfway up it's first pitch.
Nick Arding, Dave Pearce. (10/10/03).
The Sad Cow E3 6a
A direct finish to Vend-T, which takes the obvious pink wall to the ledge left (right?) of Britomartis. Follow Vent-T to the point where it strikes up forcefully to the ledge. Step right on small flakes and climb directly, crux, to reach better holds and a little crack. Finish slightly left to the large ledge.
Me(?) and George, (5/91).
Billy Bud E6 6b 17m
.A good steep pitch with perfect rock and protection. Abseil down to the island underneath Spiders Web arch. Pendulum into the cliff and clip an in-situ (?) nut. From here, go rightwards under the roof for more gear - pull round the roof and deal with the leaning crack above. Pull over a bulge and grab the 'handle' (don’t use this feature for a thread as it will break - good wires instead). The next bulge is easier, continue up Spider Wall to a belay, with difficulty.
G.Smith, C.Waddy. (1991).
The 4th Dimension E7 6b/c 27m.
Start from the island (the 'whale') underneath Spiders Web, gained by abseil from the top. Use the abseil rope to pendulum onto the wall, as for Heinous Flytrap. Follow Heinous Flytrap leftwards for 3 metres until obvious good holds lead rightwards through steep rock to an in-situ thread. Difficult moves lead leftwards to another in-situ thread. A flake on the left side of a roof leads to good holds and a vague easing of angle. It is possible to step left here into a niche and get a good shake out. Once rested, or bored, climb up rightwards to a large undercut block thing, runners and kneebars. Clip a peg on the right and make hard moves past this rightwards, crux, to gain the slab of Britomartis. A quality pitch on very good rock. Steep and safe.
A.Wainright. (16/7/96).
Heinous Flytrap E7
Takes the left arête of the wall, then large roof crack under Barfly. Start from 'the whale' (see appendix A). Swing into the groove in the middle of the steep wall (on a rope).
1 17m. 6b. Climb the groove to its top then out left along the obvious undercuts (etc) to a technical kneebar crossover crux (with a 'Greek kick' if you want) and on up large flakes to belay where it eases at jugs in a slight recess with a small spike.
2 10m. 6b. Continue up a short crack on the left, then swing out left onto a huge flake and duck round and under and then move up to belay at the left hand end of the obvious large roof crack.
3 13m. 6b. Follow the crack rightwards to lip.
4 20m. 4c. Easier to top.
C.Waddy, G.Smith (AL). (Ground-up stylee, except top pitch which was red-pointed on gear).
Appendix A - Access, comfort and escape.Abseil straight down to the route from a thread under a boulder above the wall, clipping into the top two bits of in-situ gear on the not yet finished "4th Dimension & how to get there". This enables the swing to the groove to be made easily from the whale-like island. However, it's best to belay on it. The 2nd is a very uncomfortable hanging belay. If the belayer lowers off, with the rope clipped into separate runners, then one can, by pulling on alternative ropes, set up a swing that allows a good ledge, about 7m up Spiders Web, to be gained. This is a much more comfortable belay. This method also allows escape to be made. The second can then prussuk (only about15m) to regain the route.
Appendix B - Tides and seepage.The island seems to remain above water at high neap tides, unless it is rough. However, it may be hard to swing into the route at this state of the tide.The 1st pitch is often dampish at the bottom in the morning, but this bit isn't too bad.
Spiders Web (free) E5 68m
A thrilling trip with some awkward moves. Good gear, standard rack.
1 5c. Pitch one is pegless and tough.
2 6b. Bridge the chimney to its top. Extend the web with sling. Bridge down to the lip. Reverse arm bar a slot, good wire #1. Swing out across the lip and layback vigorously.
3 5a. ..and so on.
G.Smith, T.Bonner. (6/91).
Bar Fly E6/7 6b
From the base of Spiders Web chimney, swing out across the straight crack leading towards the lip of the Web. Finish at a spike in a groove. Wires, cams. E6 in bone dry conditions, E7 in the usual Wen Zawn conditions. Best visited at the end of the day, when it comes into the sun.
G.Smith. (6/91).
The Boston Struggler E5 70m
1 23m. 5c. Climb pitch 1 of Blowout, then layback flakes leading out leftwards from the huge wide chimney left of Spiders Web. Belay at the arête.
2 13m. 6b. Swing into the wild roof slot and jam round the lip with more gambling bars than Monte Carlo. Belay in the groove above.
3 34m. 5c. Swing round right and climb the gently overhanging scoop of knobs and flakes above the Web, finishing rightwards. Bit loose.
G.Smith, D.Kendall. (6/91).
Forgery E5 6b 34m.
As one descends to Spiders web, one passes a smooth North Stack like wall, which one may be tempted to test ones fingers upon. Start in the middle of the wall. Take RP's etc.Gain a ledge at 3 metres and climb a short left facing corner to a thin flake which leads quite boldly, to a square roof, thread. Go right around this, crux, and traverse left across the lip to a groove, bold. Climb this and a vague rib till trending left gains a peg on another route.
C.Waddy, J,Vlasto. (7/89).(Better maybe, having gone round the roof, step right, hard, to an easy flake)
Will Mawr is left of Genflux, not right.
Mustang - worth VS 4c.
Carol VS
Climbs the vague crack 5m right of Mr. Seal. Go up the crack to a ledge and bear left. A step right gains a quartz jug and the top.
J.Dalton, F.Williams. (11/4/90).
Miura is not VS and has been superseded completely by The Tail
(worth E3 5c - takes the 3rd groove along the ledges, not the 2nd) and
the following route:
Huncho E2 5b Quite a serious pitch. This takes the shallow groove 3m left
of The Tail. Climb the groove, bold, to a bulge, lots of poor runners. Move up
carefully to gain easier ground. Finish up left, blind but excellent rock.
M.Crook, A.Newton. (18/4/94).
A much better way of climbing Maverick is:Flooze VS 4c 37m.An excellent
pitch, at its grade. Start as for Maverick. Climb up leftwards around the
shallow arête and up into a shallow groove. Climb as directly upwards as
possible, bold, on excellent holds, on the strange rock, steep, to reach the
top. Belay well back.
D.Ferguson, C.Brown. (1993).
Flytrap Area
Six White Boomers VS 4c 33m.
Start between Mordor and Colditz just right of some black spikes. Climb easily up cracks to a ledge, move steeply left to a left slanting niche and pull over a bulge into the groove above. Follow this and move left at the top to finish up the front of the buttress.
Dave Furguson, James McQueen. (7/5/94).
Roof Rack E7 6c 17m
The roof above Seal Song. From a belay on the outer face of the Seal Song fin, go up to the break. Tug across the roof, passing good pegs (average peg near the lip). The crack above is eight grades easier but seems very difficult none the less.
G.Smith, attempts over several years I'm afraid. (1995).
The Porcelain Arena E6 50m
An exceedingly traditional route, starting left of the cave and finishing at a giant chockstone, via the back of the cave. Start round ton the right of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.
1 6b. Ascend the initial chimney of The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes, then traverse right to the arête. Gain a slanting crack up and right with difficulty. This widens to a strenuous and awkward vice/pod which in turn leads to the roof of the cave. Belay.
2 5c. Either throw yourself into the sea, or arrange protection and traverse the wall to a point where it is possible to bridge the width of the zawn (or continue along the wall) to the top of the flytrap chockstone. An atmospheric pitch.
3 20m. 4b. As for Flytrap, pitch 3.
G.Smith, Simon Melia. (2003).
The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes - E6 6b - No details.
F.A: G.Smith
The Ultraviolet Exterminator - E7? - No details.F.A:
G.Smith
Lola E3/4 5c/6a 20m.
Start 7 metres to the left of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, just right of The Hitcher. Climb up and right to gain a small triangular, then follow slim grooves to overlaps which lead to easier climbing and a break. Finish up the obvious compact headwall. The crux is about 10 metres up, above deep water at high tide and the rest of the route is fine. A very good solo (though a right hand start from 20,000… may be safer).
C.Waddy (solo). (2002?). Done before by Dai Lampard and Twid.
The Hitcher - worth E1 5a/b.
Jug Patrol E1
This takes the flake crack some 3m left of The Hitcher, starting about 15m right of the highpoint on the traverse from Parliament House Cave.
1 23m. 5b. Climb the steep pink flake to reach good holds and a ledge beneath the less steep wall. Move left and surmount the bulge, climbing gradually left to reach a niche on Route 66, ledge.
2 20m. 4c. Climb the crack above the belay with care to reach the grassy slopes above. Belay on the abseil rope or blocks above.
M.Crook, A.Newton. (17/4/94).
Skippy E1 45m.Between Jug Patrol and Oijee Wall is a left slanting
chimney. Start 3 metres left of this.
1 25m. 5b. Climb the wall left of the chimney up to a groove. Climb this to an overlap and make steep moves over it to belay on the ledge system of Route 66.
2 20m. 4c. Take the slab above on big flakes to a grassy finish. Belay on blocks.
Tony Morley, Dave Ferguson. (8/4/97).
North Stack
Touching Cloth E1 35m.
On the big wall opposite North Stack wall. Start in a huge-ish chimney that faces south (I think). From 7m up this, go right to a crack, which leads to a recess. Continue from the left hand side of this up a crack to the top.
C.Waddy. (5/90).
Pigs in Space A4
A direct start to Black Rod from The Big Overhang pedistal. Traverse from the top of The Big Overhang start pillar, to the knackered tat below the belay of Black Rod. Bloody desperate and total death should one placement fail.Estimated time: 3hrs.Ropes, hooks and Bottoming K.B's behind loose blocks.James Howel,
Dave Anderson. (1992?).
The Wrath of Deadly Lampshade E5 6a/b 27m.
The obvious cracks left of Le Bon Sauveur, are hard for 17m then more easily lead up the left hand side of the large overhang.
Alister Hopkins, George Smith. (5/91).
Doug Buddy VS 4c 25m.
Climbs the chimney/groove to the right (looking out to sea) of End Game. Bridge up the chimney until it is possible to pull onto the slabby wall on the left, then climb the wall and groove to the top.
P.Greening. (5/12/95). (May
have been climbed by Nigel and Barbara Jones a few years before - AW).
(Don't know where next routes start - P.R)
The Jigs Up E5 6a 23m.
Start as for Rickety Fence Route at a hanging belay on the arête. Move up the groove in the arête to holds below the first bulge. These lead leftwards onto the overhanging face. Climb a fragile flake to a rest at its top, then sprint straight up to the top.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
Rickety Fence Route HS/S 5c/6a 27m.
(Can't read description)
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
Tsumami Zawn area
To the right (looking in) of Tsunami Zawn (maybe) is another bay. Right again is a Tibia shaped arête, left of a roofed square groove. Right again is slabby easy ground, running to sea level. God's Bone XS 6b 10m.This arête has no relevant gear, but can be climbed on its left side. At high tide it is a safe solo.
C.Waddy. (1996).
Tsumami (free) E4/5
1 5a. As described. 2 4c. As described. 3 5b. Traverse across the wall to belay in a wide crack. Loose and serious. 4 5b. Scary moves up the groove then out right. Very loose and very serious.
Will Perrin (pitch 4), Peter Robins (pitch 3). (6/2001).
SOUTH STACK
On the sea level traverse between the Loathsome Cleft and the Upper Tier, there is a through cave. Facing its northern end is a steep red wall. Around to the left is a slab in a corner - the easiest way out.
The Sweet Smell of Excess XS
1 32m. 5b. Climb a short wall on the left to a step onto the slab. Climb the corner to a roof then step out rightwards to a ledge. Move up to a better ledge beneath the steep wall. Climb this leftwards up to some loose rock and move up to easier ground and broken ledges on the left. Good belay.
2 50m. 5a. It would be pointless to describe the next 7 metres since it is temporary edifice in a state of flux. Above this the vegetation is only just beginning to re-establish itself after the fire of a few years ago, the ground being a fine shifting dust. Climb upwards for nearly 40 metres to a flat, white boulder. Take a stance behind this, buttocks firmly clenched around a small gorse bush. Destined to become a classic!
H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1/7/00).
Harry and Ida Swap Teeth E2 5b 30m.
The loathsome cleft which contains FEU123ELF. Continue down below that route to the beach. The route follows a leftwards rising band of red rock on the north promontory of the zawn, bounded on the left and right by slabs. Traverse 20 metres from beach to ledges below the steep red rock, not easy.Climb up steeply on weathered brown rock to a ledge. Traverse left and up to a cleanly cracked block. Above and left, the terrain becomes steeper and leads to a headwall, topped by a small overhang. From below this, move rightwards onto a slab and up for 5 metres to belay on top of the pinnacle.
Howard Jones, Gill Lovick.
100 metres further left from Trinity House Wall, a cliff comes down at right angles. In it's upper half, it has wide cracks rising rightwards to the hillside. Below these are flaky overhangs and lower still are three diagonal cracks, which reach down to ledges above high tide.
Sea Pig E3 50m.
1 25m. 5c. Start on the ledge. Follow a narrow ramp for 5 metres to an overlap and go rightwards past this and onto the wall. Use the upper and middle cracks to climb up to the roof, all pleasant and well protected. Climb upward to a higher flake line and right to the arête. Using an undercling pinch, a sidepull and a groin strain, to reach a belay on the face, shared with an irate Razor Bill.
2 25m. 5b. Wide chimney cracks lead rightwards, the rock and protection getting progressively worse, until reaching a rising slab on the right. Step across to the slab and tiptoe up it to grass. Belay in a corner, 5 metres further up.
Ian Wilson, P.Thomas, Neil ? (1994). (Claimed by Glenda and Howard as Five Bellies in 1997).
Skull Zawn
Corner left of Sea Witch - E5 5c (F.A: A.Wainright) No details.
Wall left of Sea Witch - E5
6a (F.A: G.Huxter) No details.
Trinity House Walls
Kareoke Bar E6 6b
The wall right of Scud. Climb the first crack past a peg, rest. Attack the twin cracks and pull over onto a slab (interesting). Top out on a good ledge.
M.Turner. (8/91).
Scud E3 5c/6a
Obvious groove/corner line left of The Hood. Climb groove/corner until forced onto arête. Shoot up this to belay.
Ian Wilson (Wraith), Yob, Shagger. (Summer/91).
El Presidente E5 6b 27m.
The left hand overhanging thin crack of the wall, left of Twid's E5. 1 blue peg low down and 1 angle at 10 metres. Strenuous and unnerving, but an ace route.
P.Prichard, G.Smith. (29/7/96).
Idlevice E5 6b 40m.
Climbs the soaring crack, left of Scud, direct to a good ledge.
M.Turner. (8/91).
Friend or Anenome E4 6a 35m.
As for The Hood to the top of the continuation groove. Move left at the hanging arête and climb directly to the top. Nice positions.
Owain Jones, M.Turner (on-sight). (29/7/91).
The Hood E2 36m.
This route lies about 200m to the left of The Man From Uncle at an obvious corner above a steep crack (groove capped by a small roof).
1 18m. 5c. Gain the square cut groove, go over a bulge, and up to the roof, good gear. Move out awkwardly right to gain the continuation groove and go up to below the top corner.
2 18m. 5b. Climb the corner on very South Stack rock, to the top. Belay up on the grass.
Andy Newton, Ian Wilson (Wraith), (AL). (14/5/91).
Walking the Plankton E5 6a 35m.
The fine hanging corner, right of The Hood. Climb the obvious corner to its top. Move right to beneath corner, runners in break. Gain corner by scary rising traverse right to get lodged in the groove. Climb this (cam # 1 & peg) to roof exit left.
Owain Jones, Andy Farnell. (2/8/91).
International Rescue HVS 5b 35m.
Start halfway between The Hood and Mr Waverley. Climb the corner to gain good holds at the base of a wide blind crack. Awkward moves gain a good ledge (cam 4). Move right and up an overlap and thin slab to gain good holds again. Move 4m right to join Mr Waverley. Climb 3m up this then go left up a short slab (possible belay) to finish by climbing onto the hanging arête in a good position. Belay well back, large cams.
Andy Newton, Jim Wyllie. (20/6/91).
Mr Waverley HVS 5a 40m.
The wall right of The Hood contains a number of cracks and grooves. Climb the 2nd crack line right of The Hood pleasantly to reach a good ledge, possible belay, good runners on the left. Finish up weird rock in a good position.
Andy Newton, Stevie Haston,
Laurence Gouault. (13/6/91).
Freu Cowgirls get the Blues HVS
Climbs the most continuous crack, right of Mr Waverley.
1 25m. 5b. Climb the crack, past a hard move at half height, to a ledge below the final bulges.
2 10m. 4c. Go leftwards through the bulges on good holds to finish up a short groove type thing. Belay, gear on the left.
Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley (AL), Liz Wade. (26/7/91).
Start Me Up HVS 5a 47m.
The line starting some 3 metres right of Freu Cowgirls get the Blues.
1 34m. 5a. Go over bulges to belay 3 metres below the top of the corner of Parker.
2 13m. 4b. Climb up the corner and move left then up. Step across to a belay.
Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley (AL). (7/8/91).
Parker E2/3 5c 47m.
Right of Start Me Up and left of the landing from the abseil is a black, white streaked, corner. Climb the left arête of the corner, hard for the short, and continue to the top in the obvious continuation corner line, rather more easily.
Leigh McGinley, Andy Newton. (7/8/91).
Catch a Fire E1 5b 43m.
4 metres right of the black corner, take the crack line to the small roof at 6m. Pull rightwards through this and carry on up, over bulges, in the same line to exit around about the abseil boulder.
Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley. (7/8/91).
Rapping VS 4b 43m.
Climb the groove right of the abseil landing and trending slightly left. Climb the abseil line to the boulder over various bulges and ledges.
Leigh McGinley (solo). (26/7/91).
Thunderbird Zawn
The Flying Shed E5 6a 30m.
The obvious shed like cave thing left of Stingray. Climb up the back on huge flakes, possible belay. Bridge out across the 13 metre roof, round the lip and up the short wall. An utterly magnificent route. Large gear recommended.G.Smith (on-sight). (1997).
Crack Eats Man Alive! E6The obvious bottom left/top right diagonal fault
line through the cave. Start further in the cave, left of Stingray.1 6b.
Surmount a flake and ascend a groove slot. Very awkward. Belay at the end of the
roof.2 6b. Cross the offwidth roof into a groove. Go right into a further
groove to belay.3 6a. Ascend the groove and continue rightwards along the
fault line to a wild swing around the arête. Belay on the slab.4 4c.
Easily up the wall.
G.Smith. (1996).
The Prisoner E1/2 40m.Takes a line into Thunderbird buttress from the
right.1 25m. 5a. Start on the slab below and right of Thunderbird at a
good flake crack. Climb the weakness and go up to a steepening, before moving
left across the bottomless corner to gain a hanging wall/groove. Go left around
the arête, spectacular, before moving up and around into the slabby hanging
groove. Cross the slab to the corner and go up weirdness to construct a belay
below a steep groove.2 15m. 5a. Climb the friable overhanging groove by a
series of caterpillar-like gyrations and finish up and across.
Stevie Haston, Laurence Gouault, Andy Newton. (13/6/91).
The Man From Uncle E1 5a 27m.This takes the front face of the thin
buttress to the left of the cave below thunderbird and opposite the arch. Climb
the buttress by two crack running up the face and trend around steeply left
where the cracks lead. Finish back right and up. Nice climbing.
Ian Wilson (Wraith), Andy Newton. (14/5/91).
Follower of Hopeless Causes E7Start on the opposite side of the arch to
Archie is Angry, at low tide. Abseil from the top of the arch.1 20m. 6a.
Climb the wall to the obvious notch on the arête.2 6b. Traverse 20 metres
left, just above the lip of the arch, passing various pegs (mostly rust free
Titian) to a hanging stance on the left hand side, at a good crack and peg.3
15m. 6b. Move up and lunge right to another peg. Climb up passing two more pegs
to an exciting finish.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (Took four years to complete). (14/9/95).
Archie is Angry E6 6c 37m.The first arch one comes to when approaching
Thunderbird zawn from the South Stack steps. Climb the side of the arch facing
the South Stack Island. Abseil down the outside to sea level then traverse right
to the archway. Hard moves across the lip of arch gain a good jug, good wire.
Climb straight up through the roof to gain an easier groove.
M.Turner, K.Goodey. (6/91).
The Swain E2 5b 20m.Around rightwards from the arch, gained by traversing
underneath the arch, is a small zawn with an easy chimney line in the back
(Wraith & Yag soloed it). On the left of this is a steep hanging (?) groove.
Climb this to exit left onto a slab, A bit scary.
Leigh McGinley, Ian Wilson, Andy Newton. (8/8/91).
Muppet Zawn
This zawn lies just over the bridge and on the right. Next zawn right from the one with the steps.
Gonzo With the Wind E4 6a 25m.
The left wall of the zawn. Climb the obvious central corner over a bulge then over(?) a roof. The top wall is interesting.
M.Turner, Andy Farnell (on-sight). (1/8/91).
Even Bigger Guns E3/4 5c 23m.
Abseil off South Stack bridge on the mainland side. Pull over a roof and trend up leftwards along a ramp to a short chimney and plants. Good protection.
G.Smith, N.Craine. (1994).
South Stack Island
After crossing the bridge, follow steps down into the first zawn on the right - obvious concrete diving board at the top of the zawn.
Attila the Pun E5 6a 23m.
This takes the steep hand crack leading off slabs on the left-hand side of the zawn (looking in). Follow the crack and then the groove on the right to a rest on a slabby ramp/groove. Cross the wall rightwards on fine south Stack rock, passing interesting quartz jugs/holes, to gain a sandy groove. Follow this to the top.
A.Wainright, J.Wainright (on-sight). (5/7/96).
Just north of the bridge are three small right angled bays. Hop over the wall,
just on from the green gate. The first route takes the crack in the slab in the
most northerly of these bays.
Tinky Winky Severe 23m.
Start by scrambling down slopes to belay in a corner right of the slab at low tide. Traverse left on a quartzy band and climb the crack in the slab to a spike belay.
Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).
The next route is reached by traversing left (looking in) around the arête from
Tinky Winky.
The Old Light MXS 23m.Belay on a pedistal below the curving crack/chimney. Make steep moves up to a large spike and climb the crack/chimney via a variety of cautious moves to a belay on the left.Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).
Mousetrap Zawn
E6 of Littlejohn's (1999/2000)
Two Fat Slabs E5
Climbs the wall left of Hysteresis. Start below the left most part of the wall, below some green balls. 'Mosscampion'.1 27m. 6a. Climb up left of the balls and over a roof to belay on the same ledge, but further left than Hysteresis, on some spikes (hanging off the ledge).2 40m. 6a. Climb straight up on excellent red rock, through a bulge, to a ledge. Climb over the break/roof to the next break/roof. Move up and right to join Hysteresis as it passes through the blank rock.3 15m. 4c. As for Hysteresis, pitch 3.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1997).
Catatonia E5 (R)
A nice eliminate. Start as for Hysteresis.1 40m. 6a. Climb easily to a short vertical crack. Climb this and go left to a cam 4 in a hole, just before the orange wall. Nice moves up this gain the Hysteresis belay.2 50m. 5c. Move right and make a long reach up to a break. Bla bla bla… to the top.
P.Littlejhon (1999/2000?)
The Final Front-Ear 70m E6 (R)
1 35m. 6b. First take thin cracks, 5 metres right of Hysteresis to the big breaks. Now thrust up the overhanging jugs, with little protection, and cling on to place a Hex 11 in the lip. Step up the warp factor and traverse right on little holds, crux, to reach the 'ear'. Easier climbing leads to the belay, on Primate. A challenging enterprise.
2 35m. 5c. Follow a hand crack through the overhang and up the wall to a good thread. Move left on amazing pockets then go up and rightwards to join Primate to finish.
Paul Prichard, Gwion Hughes. (14/8/97).
Rosebud - Worth E6 6a.
Death Trap E5Variations:Direct Start(2003)
1a 20m 5c. This gains the main diagonal line at the earliest available moment. Start by the right-hand side of the sea cave. Climb up right of the cave to a ledge on the left, level with the lip of the cave. Arrange Worthog protection and make a long and committing span left onto the wall and left again to a scoop in the chimney. Climb up to the Mousetrap belay.
W.Perrin, P.Robins.
Death Trap Direct (1988)
2a 45m. 5b. An awesome and logical direct on the original. One of the finest pitches at Gogarth. Take a big rack. From the stance on Mousetrap, climb straight up the slanting chimney past a worrying steepening, to regain the original line.
The Head Strimmer 110m E4 (R) (1997)
1 45m. 5b. As for Mousetrap, pitch 1.
2 10m. 5b. From the ledge, climb diagonally right for 8 metres to a volcano, clove hitch. Step right onto a red wall and climb directly to the sloping ledge belay, on Mantrap.
3 30m. 6a. This pitch unfolds in the area between Mantrap and Another Roadside Attraction. Leave the ledge, climbing the flake above through two stepped roofs and into the right facing groove, joining Another Roadside Attraction. Belay on the left.
4 25m. 5b. Climb left for 3 metres towards a shattered pillar, beneath the centre of a red wall. Climb up on pockets to a crumbly groove finish.
D.Towse, A.Wainright (AL).
Another Roadside Attraction (new description) E4
A fine route with an excellent, but tiring, main pitch up the red wall on the right side of the zawn. Start from sea level, right of the large cave.
1 50m 4c. As for Mantrap, pitch 1. A very serious pitch.
2 30m 6a. From the right side of the ledge, go rightwards, then up on awkward holds to gain a shallow left-facing corner and overhang above. Strenuously pull onto the smooth wall above and continue up, heading for the stance on Mantrap.
3 21m. 5b. Climb above the belay for three metres, then move left to a slight right-facing corner. Ascend this and the wall above.
Left Hand Red Wall
Cannibal Direct Finish 45m E5 5c (R) (1993)From the final break, step right and climb straight up between Schittlegruber and Cannibal.
M.Pointon.
Schittlegruber - Worth E5
Ramalina E6 6b 20m
Follow Left Hand Red Wall to a peg and from the ledge, climb straight up passing a pocket at 10m. A hard move over a bulge leads to a rest. Carry on to the top.
M.Turner, K.Goodey. (15/9/91).
The Heart of Gold Direct-Ramalina connection climbed by G. Farquhar and W. Young, 1997.
Mein Shaft E6 6b 23m.
Follow Mein Kampf Direct to the twin stainless steel pegs. Climb directly up the hairy wall above, crux, between Mein Kampf and Ramalina.
Grant Farquhar, Wills Young (on-sight). (2/10/97).
Howell The Trowell
M.Turner
For The Enchanted Broccoli Garden and The Super Calabrese, belay to the right on good gear. Reduces the grades to E6 and E7 respectively. I disagree with this, the first pitch of the Broccolli Garden is worth E7 alone (GF)
Yarding Lard 100m E6 (R) (1995) Start at the bottom of the zawn, about 7
metres left of Come to Mother.
1 40m. 6b. Step across the void and climb straight up to two pegs. Launch over the roof and up the crack above. Move left into Pagan just below the obvious white ledge. Step off the right hand end and climb the sand pit to the Pagan stance.
2 30m. 6a. Follow the sandy break out right to the obvious sandy cave. Step right and climb the pocketed red wall, with good gear, to the Infidel belay.
3 35m. 5c. Climb straight up to the horn and move above to a hand jamming crack, left of Anarchist.
M.Turner, Steve Hartland. (8/95).
Metal horn on Infidel has gone.
Care in the Community 30m E5 6a (R) (1995)
Start below a spike, as for Outside the Asylum. Climb up the right side of the spike and move left to clip the peg on Outside the Asylum. Limb directly up the corner groove above, over a small overlap and up the wall to a horizontal break at 17 metres. Step right and make increasingly hard moves up the wall, right of a black streak, to arrive below the finishing crack of Anarchist. Move right, hands in the break, and climb the flake just left of the arête, exciting, to belay on the ledge, on the escape route.
G.Huxter, J.H.Jones. (5/10/95)
Anarchist Direct E3 6a (R) (1989)
Starting up Outside the Asylum, follow a corner straight up into Anarchist.
M.Turner, A.George. (Don’t know which George!)
The Promontory
Red Warbler's 27m E4 6a (R) (1996)
The continuation groove, as it were, in the south face of the promontory. Scramble round from the abseil. Swarm up the groove after a hard first move. Protection is every whimps dream.
G.Smith, J.Toombs, D.Holms, A.Wainright, R.Kay, N.Dixon.
Red Wall
Roger Melly…
Start as for Safer Start! And climb up to beneath a roof. A hard pull gains a line of holds … up to join Television Route. At the bolts and pegs, follow the break up and left to finish out at a sandy recess.
M.Turner, Owain Jones (6/8/93)
Bottom of the Pile 30m E2 5c (R)
Start at a ledge, just above sea level, left of the cove mouth. Climb the rightward slanting corner groove to a flake crack continuing rightwards. Gain the top of the flake and stand up by an inelegant ant tenuous move. Climb up above and move rightwards around the blunt arête to a blocky slab. Continue diagonally right then up a dirty corner to belay on spikes at the foot of Windigo.
H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998)
The Tiger's Den E5 (R)1 18m. 5c.
As for A Brown Study, pitch 1.2 ??m. 5c. Traverse the ledge rightwards and go right to a corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge and traverse 8 metres right to its end and belay.3 ??m. 6a. Drop down a metre and traverse right (loose) to a hanging red wall. Climb this, under a line of overhangs until a hard move brings you out on a slab. Top out, boulder belay.
M.Turner, K.Goodey. (19/9/91).
Fire and Grimstone 20m E5 5c (R)
This route deals with the groove line 3 metres right of the start to A Brown Study. Climb up the groove, passing much sand, loosness, and brittle fins to join A Brown Study at the top of its first pitch. Belay on good rock in the corner above. Finish wherever you wish.
A.Wainright, J.Harrison. (5/9/96).
Castle Helen
Nematoid 40m E3 5c (R)
From the belay at the top of the first pitch of Captain Nemo, climb up the obvious groove. At the top of the groove, go over a small roof and weave a way up the wall above to reach a diagonal break/ledge. Follow the break/ramp left to a large corner and finish up this to a grassy scramble.
A.Wainright, J.Harrison. (5/9/96).
The Flight of the Do Do E4 6a 30m.
Start below an overhanging corner, 17 metres right of the last belay of Freebird. Climb the overhanging wall (small hidden wires) to pull leftwards onto the wall, right of the top pitch of Freebird.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).
New Variant Atlantic WallFirst climbed in 1969 and given a brief
description in the Alec Sharp guide, Atlantic Wall was redescribed by Geoff
Milburn in the 1981 supplement with the top pitch moved rightwards to make room
for North West Passage. The 1990 guide redescribed Atlantic Wall once again and,
with a fine disregard for historic precedent, relocated the first belay far to
the right of the halfway ledge, creating an excellent pitch at a stroke. In
keeping with tradition, Atlantic Wall is redescribed for the new millennium as
climbed by G.Huxter and H.Jones:
Atlantic Wall 2000 E3 75m.
1 45m. 5c. Climb the arête right of the Atlantis pitch 1 corner, easily at first until forced to climb the centre of the wall for a few moves. Move immediately back right to stand on the arête where Atlantic Wall emerges from below the overhangs. Climb up then diagonally rightwards along a broken crack to gain a blunt right-facing rib after a few metres, which is climbed to reach the traverse of True Moments at the shallow cave on the traverse fault - about 6 metres right of Atlantis corner. From the right-hand end of the cave, gain the wall above and climb directly to the girdle traverse line, just below the thin wet groove that is 4 metres left of the North West Passage groove line. Belay.
2 30m. 6b. Gain and climb the thin wet groove to its junction with Caught 'Twixt the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea. Make a move up the leftwards slanting groove of Caught 'Twixt.. until a step rightwards across the face can be made to gain a footledge on the right. From here, climb difficult moves straight upwards, well protected by R.P's, to join North West Passage. Follow this to finish.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/00).
Hanging out at Glastonbury E4
A good traverse which allows the excellent 3rd pitch of Free Stone Henge to be experienced by lesser mortals. Start 7m down from Castle Helen Ledge in the corner of Atlantis, on good nuts.
1 17m. 5c. Follow the obvious traverse line right to the arête and belay (junction with Obelisk).
2 6a. Reverse the traverse of Obelisk and carry on right to belay in centre of slab.
3 5c. Pitch 3 of Free Stone Henge.
4 5b. Finish up Kalahari.
Free Stone Henge - Worth E6 6b. (PR).
Vital Statistix E8 77m.
Start on the right hand side of the two cheese wedges.
1 23m. 5b. Step off the left hand end and climb up steeply to the base of a right facing corner and continue up the slab to belay below the overhanging v-roof of Free Stone Henge.
2 7m. 6c. Take the roof direct, right of Free Stone Henge. Start by reaching a large undercut (good nut) and continue with body bars to a rest and undercut up the overhanging groove to a wild bold finish.
3 12m. 6c. Climb the roof left of Free Stone Henge.
4 35m. 6c. Climb the overhanging wall left of Obelisk's top pitch. Follow the quartz streaks to a peg and R.P's. A hard move left and up gains undercuts, peg, and continue steeply direct to finish. Bold.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (6/95, climbed over various days).
Drunken without Trace E6 46m.
Start at overhanging groove directly below top of pitch 1 of Kalahari.
1 13m. 6b/c. Climb up the wall to below the overhanging groove. Over this and move up to the obvious line of jugs leading to the ledge.
2 33m. 6a. Traverse right across break to a loose spike (white tape) and climb up and left through Kalahari (rest). Climb straight up and thrutch through the overhanging chimney. Wild pull out leads to slab above.
M.Turner, L.Thomas, Ian. McNeill. (1992).
Yellow Wall
The Owl and the Pussy Cat E6
Start as for The Cow.
1 6b. Climb The Cow to a rest on a spike, just past its crux. Climb up and left (sloping mantle) to meet Me. Go up the vague groove to the roof and pull up right to big jug (wire #9). Follow the hanging prow to the golden slab of The Moon, belay.
2 6a. Climb the groove direct which Perygl top pitch traver