|
| |
OS Landranger Sheet: 92
Map Reference:
NY954176
Aspect:
North and South Facing
Altitude: 350m
Approach Time: 5 minutes
Situation and Character
A Pennine gritstone outcrop. The rock is of good quality in a pleasant
situation overlooking Hury and Blackton reservoirs in the shallow valley of
Baldersdale. The crag has both North and South facing aspects around a small,
rising, moor land summit. Although exposed to any wind, it is quick drying, as
it does not suffer from any drainage or seepage. The crag does enjoy visits all
year round but it is more comfortable from early spring to late autumn. A pad
may prove more useful than ropes at this crag as soloing appears to be the norm
however many of the routes do offer placements for protection and there are
belay stakes at the top.
History
There are no records of the early development of Goldsborough. It is known
that Bentley Beetham climbed here regularly during the 1930s, bringing parties
of pupils from his Barnard Castle School. The adventures of the Goldsborough
Club, as they were known, are recorded in the Fell and Rock guides to the Lake
District. Most of the easier routes were recorded by members of the Eden Valley
MC during the late 1970s during work on the first edition of the “North of
England Rock Climbing Guide”. Climbers from Barnard Castle were also active, in
particular Paul Carling and Nigs Reader. Motivation was climbed by Reader in
1980, while Carling recorded many testing problems including Enigma, The
Thornbird and Long Reach all prior to 1982. Ian Cummins added the bold Green
Nigel in 1983 and Nick Clement climbed The Obsessed and Viola. During the mid
1980s Ian Cummins climbed the Footless Traverse on Thin Wall Buttress. Stu
Ferguson climbed Flymantle on the North Facing section; Steve Crowe added the
more serious variation. Bob Bennett, Steve Crowe and Mark Turner added many new
problems while working on the first edition of Climbing in Northeast England.
Bob Bennett began developing the North East Boulders during 1995 with about 15
problems added by spring 1996. Steve Crowe recorded a number of traverses during
the winter of 1995/96 including Askew and Upper Break, although it is possible
they were climbed before. Due to bad fingers/work/kids/staleness etc., Ian
Cummins had kept a low profile for 5-6 years before surfacing in 1997 to report
the hardest problems at Goldsborough to date. Beth’s Traverse from July 1996 and
George’s Roof climbed in July 1997, both are very hard but reasonably safe.
Andrew Earl traversed the Super Low Level on the Thin Wall Buttress in January
1997 and Steve Dunning extended this in 2001. Dunning added three desperate
combinations, Something Burning, Second Coming and Juxtapose around this time.
In May 2005 Ian Cummins added the Prelude to Beth's Traverse and repeated
Klute after the demise of the "weetabix" hold. Tom Newman added the much
sought after Clamp Master in March 2006.
Access and Approaches
From the direction of Barnard Castle (the East) follow the B6277 to just
past Cotherstone then take a minor road left, signposted to East Briscoe. Follow
this road for 4 - 5 miles passing the Hury reservoir on the right after 3 miles
and continue through one or two gates and finally over a cattle grid when the
crag will appear up on the left. Alternatively from the West or North, pass
through the village of Romaldkirk and take a right turn signposted Hunderthwaite.
After about two miles take a left turn signposted Baldersdale (South) and follow
it down a steep hill, across the front of the reservoir dam, up to a sharp
hairpin junction. Turn right. Follow this road through the gates, (as for the
previous approach), when the crag will soon be visible up on the left. Park off
the road where the public footpath leads across the moor towards the crag in
about 5 minutes.
The Grades
The V grades system has been introduced in an attempt to highlight climbs
that can be considered problems to be climbed with bouldering mats rather that
routes that are soloed or led with ropes. Please report anomalies to
www.climbonline.co.uk
The Climbs
The climbs are described from left to right.
North Face
Starts on the left at a boulder with a large roof.
Bentley’s Buttress
1. The Goldsborough Club 6m VS 5a
Climb the broken wall to the left side of the roof and continue up the short
groove on good jams.
Steve Crowe 12th May 2002
2. Flymantle 6m VS 5a
Climb the broken wall to the centre of the roof, follow the short rightward
crack and pull awkwardly over the break.
Stu Ferguson 1980s
3. Flakeaway 5m D
The flake and short crack just to the right and below the prominent overhang.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
4. Scoon Crack 4m S
From the left, climb the wall and small crack left of the blunt arête. The wall
directly below the crack is 4b.
4a. Scoon Wall 4m 5a
Climb the wall direct.
Ron Kenyon August 1983
5. Scoon Arête 3m S
Climb the arête starting from the left side.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
6. Erroneous Areticus 4m V0 5a *
Climb Scoon Arête on its right side and make a difficult move up to a good hold.
Continue straight up to the top.
7. Wall of Errors 5m V0 5a
Climbs the wall between the corner crack and Scoon Arête with a reachy start.
8. Crackaway 5m S
The all too obvious wide crack in the corner.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
9. Pocket Wall 5m VB 4c
The wall right of Crackaway to pockets and a tricky finish.
10. Bentley’s Arête 5m VB 4c *
The prominent arête right of Crackaway. Gain it from the right and climb the
arête direct. Only 4b I’m afraid if you chicken out to the right.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
Ravens Wall
To the right is a vegetated section much frequented by midges when in
season. Beyond the right hand end of this broken buttress and overlooking the
approach path is the North West Buttress.
North West Buttress
11. Briscoe Crack 5m VB 4c
Climb a short crack and move over a small overhang to a dirty finishing ledge.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
Right of Briscoe Crack and slightly cleaner is: -
12. Howgill Wall 7m VB 4c
Surmount the bulging wall on good holds to a sharp edged flake. Pull out left
then move right to finish through a small notch in the overhangs.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
13. Tosser Traverse 6m VB 4b
Start up Howgill Wall to the flake then traverse right below the overhangs
crossing Turner’s Eliminate to finish up Pitcher Crack.
14. Turner’s Eliminate
(Mark you he’s never done it) 5m HVS 5b
Start 2m right of Howgill Wall. Climb directly through the bulges to a bold but
protectable finish.
Bob Bennett c1995
Mark Turner on Turners Eliminate
Just left of a prow with a prominent finger of rock below, is an incipient
gully. Here is: -
15. Pitcher Crack 5m S
The oft times dirty crack left of a small rib in the afore mentioned gully.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
16. Hagworm 5m VB 4b
Ascend the finger of rock direct (see if you can!) then up the left side of the
jutting prow on an awkward assortment of holds.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
17. Friar Wall 4m S *
A clean, pleasant wall to the right of the prow.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
18. Tuck 3m D
The final wide crack at the right hand side of this buttress system.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
19. Lock Up 3m VB 4b
Use the undercut at the left end of the buttress.
20. Wriggle Up 3m VB 4c
Gain the left end of the undercut slab by a difficult move, and then pull out
left to finish.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
21. Double Mantelshelf 3m V2 5c
Mantle onto the centre of the slab and continue directly over the roof above.
22. Blockton Way 3m VB 4b
Pull awkwardly onto the undercut slab at its right end, finishing to the right.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, 1970s
23. Block and Tackle 3m S
Tackle the block overhang just right of the undercut slab.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, 1970s
South West Section
Follow the faint path over the rise to the more popular south facing
section.
The first buttress seen when approaching over the moor from the west end of the
north facing section is mainly southwest facing. The first climb encountered on
the south facing section is a short but distinctive arête at the left end of a
short clean wall.
24. The Swaledale Morris Men 3m S
Climb the left hand arête. A one-move wonder.
25. Y-Crack 3m VD
Take the Y-shaped crack at the left hand end of the buttress.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, 1970s
26. Finger Crack 4m VB 4c **
The crack just right of Y-Crack is climbed with an insecure finger lock at the
top.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, 1970s
27. System of a Brown 4m V4 6b
This is an eliminate, avoiding the block in the base of the chimney and also the
crack, which is pretty much out of reach anyway.
Ian Cummins Summer 2002
28. Ravock Chimney 4m S
The V-chimney just right of Finger Crack, with an awkward start.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
29. Go Ahead, Make my Hay 4m V4 6b
An eliminate that climbs the groove just left of the arête of In Search of Cheap
Bananas. Keep out of that chimney.
Ian Cummins summer 2002
30. In Search of Cheap Bananas 4m V4 6b
Climb the arête just to the left of the Enigma groove. Thin, hard and excellent.
Ian Cummins 2002
31. Enigma Direct 4m V4 6b **
A direct start straight up the groove - good.
Ian Cummins 2002
32. Enigma 6m V3 6a **
The original line right of Ravock Chimney. Pull onto the wall on the right of
the groove which is then entered with difficulty and followed to the top, or
more easily... continue to use the right arête all the way to the top - this is
Old Moss.
Paul Carling prior to 1982
Ian Cummins on Enigma 6a, photo by Dan Maltman
33. Old Moss 4m V2 5c **
Starts as Enigma but climb straight up the wall.
34. Cotherstone Reiver 4m V1 5b **
Gain the foothold on the wall left of Corner Crack by a precarious layback move
and reach gingerly for the top.
35. Corner Crack 4m D
Corner Crack appears to get slightly wider every year.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
36. Holstein Friesian 4m V4 6a/b
Thin moves up the obvious faint groove. Despite being only 3 moves, starting off
the ledge makes it a bit scary!
Paul Smith 1980s
37. Flake and Crack 6m S *
Takes the obvious flake leaning against the buttress and the steep crack above.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
38. The Crack Direct 5m V0 5a
Start just behind the flake. Climb up to and gain the crack of Flake and Crack.
If you touch the flake come down and start again.
39. Hubris 5m V3 6a **
A hard start leads to a bold finish. Pull round the overhang right of Flake and
Crack, get established on the wall above with difficulty and finish straight up.
Steve Crowe on Hubris 6a
39a. Hubris Right Hand V5 6b
The wall right of Hubris. Pull onto the wall and make a hard move on poor holds
to get your feet established above the lip. It may be a bit grainy.
Ian Cummins May 2004
40. Cenopod Corner 5m VD
Take the wide crack in the corner, right of the overhang of Hubris.
41. Saturnalia 5m V1 5b
Thin moves up the wall on the right of Cennapod Corner above an poor landing.
42. Ian’s Arête 5m V6 6c
Climbs the obvious arête with a chip/notch. Easily up to the ledge and then up
the arête on its right side. Tricky, quite high and a bit gritty too!
Ian Cummins September 2000
43. Hunder Crack 6m S *
Climb the left hand crack and broken wall above.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
44. Crawlaw 5m S
Start up the right hand crack then move right and hand traverse the block
finishing at a short corner.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
The outcrop is discontinuous for the next 25m then
improves to give a small buttress with jutting overhangs and a small bay on the
right. Just below this buttress is a large boulder, which is undercut at its
right hand end (facing the main crag), with the following problem...
45. Indian Summer 3m VB 4c
Make a long reach for a good hold, then mantelshelf to finish.
46. Long and Hot 6m V3 5c
Start lying down well left of Indian Summer traverse right to finish up Indian
Summer.
Yoke Buttress
47. Mawman 6m S
Climb the left hand arête with a difficult start, gain a ledge and finish up the
wall above.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
48. Stewart’s Wall 6m V1 5b/c
An eliminate up the centre of the short wall just right of Mawman, past an
overlap to finish direct.
49. Yoke Sike 6m VB 4b *
Climb the corner just right of Mawman, pull over the small roof and ascend the
wall above.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
50. Yoke Siddle 7m V1 5b
Start up the right arête of Yoke Sike then hand traverse right to finish up the
wall of Yawd Sike.
51. Yawd Sike 6m VB 4b
Start 2 metres right of Yoke Sike. Climb the reachy wall direct to the top.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
52. Brown Rigg Flake 4m VD
Climb the flaky crack at the back of the bay.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
53. Brown Rigg Wall 4m D
Start 1m left of the easy descent chimney/gully. Straight up the wall at the
back of the bay.
The next two larger buttresses provide the major climbs at Goldsborough. Both
buttresses are severely undercut and the first few moves off the ground are
usually the hardest. There are some excellent problems on some top quality
gritstone, which are often soloed although a rope may prove useful on first
acquaintance.
Thornbird Buttress
54. Bottle Wall 5m S
Climb the narrow pillar immediately right of the easy descent chimney.
55. Bottle Crack 6m VD
A poor climb which takes the wide crack at the extreme left hand end of
Thornbird Buttress to a scrappy, loose finish.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
56. Motivation Left Hand 7m V2 5c
Takes a line up the right hand side of the west face of Thornbird Buttress, just
to the left of the arête. Make a hard pull up to a juggy break followed by a
long reach leftwards. Continue straight up the wall.
57. Motivation 7m V2 5c
Start just to the left of the arête. Make a hard pull up to a juggy break
followed by a long reach rightwards to become established on the wall. Continue
straight up or pull right and finish up the arête.
Nigs Reader 1980
58. The Obsessed 8m V3 6a
Hand traverse right from the start of Motivation then climb the arête direct, in
its entirety.
Nick Clement
59. Viola 11m V3 6a
Start as for The Obsessed to gain the arête then continue a heel-hooking
traverse of the lip from the arête to finish up Fiddler on the Roof.
Nick Clement
60. George’s Roof 11m V10 6c/7a
A desperate direct start to The Obsessed. Start under the roof at the back and
climb the roof to gain the arête, continue up this to the top.
61. Fiddler on the Roof 10m E1 5c **
A good line where a slanting crack breaks across the lip of the buttress. Go up
to the roof and cross to good holds on the lip. There is a good foot lock if you
can find it? Pull over strenuously, relax, and then cruise up the pleasant wall
above.
Dave Bowen prior to 1980
62. Klute 10m E6 6c
This problem, to the right of Fiddler on the Roof, is based on crossing the
overhang by using the two small fragile pockets in the middle of the roof. A
spotter is essential while working these desperate moves. If you gain the lip
move slightly left into the groove and follow this to the top.
Paul Smith 1980s
Note: "No, not the infamous
Durham nitespot, but the gnarly, arm-breaking Smith/Davies 2 pitch boulder
problem at Goldsborough. Went up last night and cleaned it off, did the move to
the flake a couple of times on the abseil rope and then did it. Feels hard and I
don't think many would argue with E6 6c for on-sight with no pads/spotters. I
previously climbed this about 16 years ago, it is now a bit harder due to the
loss of the "weetabix" hold on the lip." Ian Cummins.
The next two routes enjoy bold unprotected starts, which lead to bolder but
slightly easier (when clean) finishes.
63. The Thornbird 10m E2 6a **
Start 7m right of Fiddler on the Roof. Climb onto a ledge below the roof. Make
some awkward reaches round the roof trending right on poor holds to eventually
reach a good jug. Continue directly up the wall to a faint crack line running up
the steepest part of the buttress. Pull round the bulge at the crack line and
finish steeply above.
Paul Carling prior to 1982
64. Green Nigel 13m E2 6a
This worthwhile route is much more than a variation finish to The Thornbird.
Pull around the roof to the good hold, as for The Thornbird, and then follow the
ramp-line leftwards to finish, delicately, straight up to the left of the green
seepage line.
Ian Cummins 1983
65. The Long Reach 10m E4 6b/c **
A good problem - if you have the reach. Impossible if you don’t. Start right of
The Thornbird; gain the undercut arête left of Legless. Powerful laybacking
might lead to a long reach and then the ledge! (V6). Continue up the overhanging
arête above.
Paul Carling prior to 1982
66. Legless 10m E4 6b
A climb of two distinct halves. Tackle the short bottomless groove with
difficulty to reach a grass ledge (V5). Reach a jug just right of the arête.
Pull onto the wall and climb to good finishing holds.
66a. Clamp Master V9
From a SS cross the roof to gain the bottomless groove of Legless.
Tom Newman 5th March 2006
Tom Newman is the Clamp Master!
67. Tute Crack 7m S
At the right end of the buttress are three short cracks. Climb the left hand one
to a ledge and finish up a small, steep corner above.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
67a. Give Me Sunshine 35m HVS 5a
A left to right girdle of Thornbird Buttress. Double ropes are needed to protect
the second. Start at the right-hand side of the buttress.Climb the crack to the
right of Tute Crack to a ledge and traverse easily left on this to the arête.
Traverse left along the break and place a high wire in a crack on the left.
Descend down a line of good holds (Thornbird) and then teeter leftwards to more
good holds (Green Nigel) which are ascended back to the break. Traverse left
along this to a short crack at the right end of a bilberry ledge (micro cams).
Continue the traverse leftwards (bilberry handholds to start with) to the left
arête and finish up this.
Stephen Reid, Chris King, 14th October 2005
The Alcove
This wall is set back slightly.
68. Yale 5m VB 4b
Start up the right of three short cracks and continue straight up the wall
above. Start just right of the crack for a 4c tick.
69. Lock Out 5m VB 4c
Climb the undercut base just left of the centre and the steep wall above on good
holds, which are not without suspicion.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
70. Borstal Breakout 6m V3 6a
Three metres right of Lockout, climb the undercut base and finish up the wall
above.
71. Loups Arête 6m V1 5a
Gain the undercut corner on the right of the buttress and follow it more easily
to the top. The wall to the right, Loups Wall, can be climbed at 5a.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
Two low level traverses are possible across The Alcove.
72. The Alcove Circuit 16m V3 5c
Start below Loups Arête and traverse leftwards on the lowest break. Pull over
the roof at the left end and traverse back rightwards with feet on the ledge
below the roof. Either step off or continue up Borstal Breakout.
Thin Wall Buttress
73. Maggie’s Wall 5m VD
Climb the left facing, or west, wall of this undercut buttress following the
easiest line. Start from the ledge.
74. Topal’s Wall 5m VS 4c
From the edge of the ledge reach right to gain the wall, continue more easily to
finish just left of the arête. A difficult bolder problem start is also possible
from the lower ground level, this is...
74a. Rock Art 6m V10 7a
The wrinkled wall left of Fiddler’s Wall. Small sloping holds and technical
knee and toe work.
Ian Cummins 2005
75. Fiddlers Wall 6m V6/7 6c
The wall left of Fiddlers Arête is climbed direct. A few difficult moves soon
lead to easier ground.
Nick Clement
76. Fiddlers Arête 6m E1 5b (V1) **
Climb the western arête of the buttress in its entirety, the crux being a
fingery pull up.
Stew Wilson prior to 1980
76a. Variation Start V4
Traverse out from the left then finish up the arête.
77. Fiddler 8m HVS 5a (V0) *
Start just to the right of the arête. Pull up on to the undercut wall using good
handholds then pockets. Step left, climb delicately up the wall then move left
to good holds and a ledge on the left hand arête. Finish up the arête.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
78. Fiddler Direct 6m E1 5b (V1) *
Start as for Fiddler, but instead of moving left to the arête continue straight
up the wall above.
Another variation start is to follow the right edge via a pocket close to the
arete. (V2).
79. Barney Boys 7m V3 6a *
A prominent ledge runs right of Fiddler. Gain its left hand end by an awkward
mantelshelf then move up boldly using a very small crescent shape layaway.
Finish on the right hand side of the blunt nose of Fiddler Direct.
Nick Clement 1986
80. The Scoop 6m V4 6b *
Enter the shallow scoop to the right of the ledge. Continue straight up more
easily. A harder variation pulls into The Scoop from the right (V5).
Nick Clement 1986
80a. Confectionary Debris V9 7a ***
Climbs the often tried blank looking wall between The Scoop and Thin Wall
Special .
Ian Cummins August 2003
81. Thin Wall Special 6m E2 5c (V2) *
Pull up to gain the thin crack with a powerful lock off. An awkward laybacking
sequence leads to rounded holds and then more easily to the top.
82. Jumping Jack Flash 6m E2 6a (V3)
The overhanging eastern arête of the buttress. An awkward reachy start on flat
holds leads hopefully to a jug on the lip. Swing up strenuously and follow the
wall above on rounded holds to the top.
Dan Maltman on Jumping Jack Flash 6a
83. G-String 5m VS 5a
A girdle traverse of the buttress. Start on the block of Maggie’s Wall and hand
traverse right along the break to pull up awkwardly around the arête. Continue
traversing right finishing diagonally up right, above the thin crack of Thin
Wall Special.
Ron Kenyon August 1983
84. Low Level traverse 15m V6 6b ***
A low level traverse of the buttress. Start left of Fiddlers Arête and traverse
hook the lowest break of the buttress to finish up JJF.
85. Super Low Level traverse 15m V7 6c
An eliminate based on the previous traverse. Hands below the lowest break, feet
anywhere, to finish up Jumping Jack Flash.
Andrew Earl 25th January 1997
86. Something Burning V11 7a
Traverse the Super Low Level starting under the roof left of Fiddler on
appalling slopers and finishing by reversing Beth’s crimpy tip traverse. Reachy!
Steve Dunning Late 2000
87. Second Coming V12 7a
Cross the roof direct two feet right of Fiddler Arête via some very poor edges.
Then traverse the Super Low Level to the right arête.
Steve Dunning (Finish up Jumping Jack Flash)
88. Juxtapose V11 6c
A right to left traverse starting with Beth’s Traverse, then reverse the Super
Low Level lip traverse and finish up Fiddlers Wall.
Steve Dunning (Repeated by Ian Cummins “If it was a
route it would be F8b”
89. The Footless Traverse V7 6b
Gain the jug on JJF – Footless – then footless all the way back down, left to
Fiddler arête and then up this footless to finish on the top.
Ian Cummins mid 1980s
90. Beth’s Traverse V9 6c
Start sitting in the back of the cave right of Jumping Jack Flash at a block
scar. Reach out to the finger traverse line and follow across the roof/steep
wall. Finish up Jumping Jack Flash. Very sustained.
Ian Cummins
Ian Cummins on Beth Traverse 7a, photo by Dan Maltman
90a. Prelude V11 7a
The extended start to Beth's Traverse no feet on the lower slabs!
Ian Cummins May 2005
91. Holeshot V10 7a
A long problem starting under the roof of Beth’s Traverse at 2 small flakes.
Out to reach the footholds of Beth’s Traverse, then up and left to the arête.
Ian Cummins May 2000 Many hard variations are possible
on this crimpy section of rock.
Baldersdale Buttress
92. Plagiarist Left Hand 5m V2 5c
The left arête is climbed using the small pocket and reaching up left, continue
up the arête.
93. Plagiarist 5m V2 5c *
Step off a block at the left of the buttress and using the same small pocket and
undercut, reach right for the break and then to an awkward exit rightwards.
93a. This Ones for Bill V7 6c
Stretch up the blank looking wall between The Plagiarist and Bass Special.
Ryan James Plews April 2004 (Ryan is 6ft 4in!)
This Ones for Bill V7
Photo: Steve Crowe
94. Bass Special 5m V0 5a *
Takes the overhang and cracks immediately left of the overhanging scoop. A sit
start is 5b.
95. Scream 5m V2 5c
Climb the overhanging scoop between the arête of Bass Special and the obvious
ledge on Baldersdale Ale, a sitting start using the ledge for hands and the
right foot (leg!) only.
96. Baldersdale Ale 5m V0 5a
Climbs the wall above the ledge, just right of Scream.
97. The Balder 5m VB 4b
Start from the ledge of Baldersdale Ale and make a high level hand traverse
leftwards to finish up the arête, or continue traversing to finish past
Plagiarist.
South East Boulder
98. The South East Boulder 6m V3 6a
A few paces to the southeast is a scrappy looking boulder just below the path.
Try the rising traverse of the slopers on the top of the southwest face for a
sustained 6a warm up. Starting the traverse around the corner at the good hold
on the southeast face is more difficult, V4 6b.
98a. Ebb and Flow V6 6a
The full traverse of the South East Boulder.
Steve Crowe 29th October 2003
99. The Tide is Turning 6m V5 6b
Using crimps from a sitting start at the arête and cross the wall below the top
provides a stern crimping test piece.
Karin Magog May 2002
Karin on The Tide is
Turning V5
99a. The Spring Tide 8m V7 6b
Start at the top of the boulder where the level of the top changes at the seam
and move left and down to the hold on the arête, drop down onto sloping holds
just right of the arête, continue as for The Tide is Turning.
Ian Cummins 11th June 2005
99b. Low Water Mark 6m V7 6b/c
The lower traverse line below The Tide is Turning. Start at the same hold on the
arête, but span left and follow the low line of holds independent of the higher
route and also more sustained.
Ian Cummins 2002
100. The Ups 2m V2 5c
Two up problems have been done on the south face. The just left of the groove
being the hardest to top out. Further up the slope the sitting start is harder
but the finish is easier.
Diagonal Buttress
The next buttress has two prominent diagonal cracks running across the front
face, rising from left to right. The right face is an easy angled slab of little
interest. The first two problems are on the short overhanging left wall.
101. Askew 5m V1 5b
Sit as far left as possible then traverse rightwards along the lip of the
boulder, from the knee lock on the ledge reverse Gap Factor Nine, then continue
across the front face as for Upper Break.
Steve Crowe, 27th February 1996
102. Adverse Camber 2m V2 5c
Mantelshelf over the centre of the left face without using the obvious chipped
holds. A one-move wonder.
103. Gap Factor Nine 4m VB 4c
Start at the left arête. Trend slightly right and up then a difficult move back
left to finish.
104. Upper Break 6m V1 5a/b
A rising left to right traverse of the upper break, more difficult than it
looks.
Steve Crowe, 18th November 1995
105. Diagonal Crack 6m VD
Hand traverse the lower crack from left to right.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
106. Diagonal Direct 4m V0 5a
Ascend the centre of the face to an awkward sloping mantelshelf finish. If you
move left to finish by a small depression, the problem becomes 4a.
By members of the Eden Valley MC, late 1970s
107. Milk Snatcher 5m V1 5b
There is a small foot ledge at thigh height, right of Diagonal Direct. Gain this
with difficulty using small flakes, step left and up to the ledge above. The
sitting start is 6a.
108. Kel’s Problem 5m V2 5c
Climb the wall just left of the right edge using a bullet scar to pull onto the
wall. The sitting start is 6a.
109. Ricochet 3m V0 5a
Take the undercut right hand arête. Slap up from rounded handholds to an easy
finish. A sitting start makes it 5b.
110. Right to Left Traverse 6m V3 6a
From a sitting start just right of Ricochet and traverse left keeping low down
until around the arête. Make a hard move up using the positive bullet scar then
continue left to move up as for Milk Snatcher then move more easily around the
arête to finish as for Adverse Camber.
To the right is an easy slab.
Goldsborough Boulders
The Goldsborough Boulders can be divided into two sections, the northeastern
and the northern. Continue contouring around to the north from Diagonal Buttress
and below the small Eastern Wall, to where the first cluster of boulders will
appear. At the most easterly point two or three large slabs of rock are
scattered with impressive lips that can be traversed. The Northern Boulders are
separated from the Northeast group by a 75m swath of grassland.
North Eastern Boulders
Contouring the moor from Diagonal Buttress a small east-facing wall is
approached immediately before the first cluster of boulders. This has a standard
and low-level traverse.
Eastern Wall
111. V2 5b
Traverse the wall with hands on the top.
112. V4 6a
Traverse the wall with hands below the top.
Eastern Slabs
There are two prominent slabs of rock below and North East of the Eastern
Wall.
Eastern Slab Left-hand
113. V1 5b
Mantel from a sitting start.
114. V3 6a *
Start underneath the boulder and pull round via a shallow scoop to top out.
115. V3 5c
Traverse L-R from underneath the boulder to top out.
116. Thin Seam V5 6b * Start underneath and reach out to gain good crimps.
Follow the thin seam rightwards until it fades. Reach up to the lip and continue
to finish as for the previous traverse.
117. V3 5c *
Traverse L-R along the top of the boulder to top out in the same place.
Eastern Slab Right-hand
The right-hand slab shows signs of chipping dating back to when this area
was quarried for mill wheels. There are three prominent holds on the north face
two are chipped with another similar crimp just left.
118. V1 5b
The first mantel problem uses the left pair of three holds from a sit start.
119. V2 5c *
The second mantel problem uses the right pair of three holds from a SS under the
roof.
120. V1 5b
Mantel onto the boulder from a standing start at the arête.
121. V1 5b
The west face can be climbed from a sitting start in three places. All three for
the tick!
122. V3 5b *
Traverse L-R along the top of the boulder to top out.
123. No Deal V7 6c *
Traverse L-R along the line of chipped holds and edges below the top to mantle
at the far end.
Andrew Earl on the North Side, No Deal V7
Detached Boulder
About 10m west is a larger detached boulder just in front of the main
escarpment.
124. Around the Block V6 6c
Starting low on the west wall a 6a traverse rises up the wall. The south face is
traversed low, under the roof, then down the northeast wall to the final crux
moves to regain the west face. Continue until you drop!
The next buttress is behind the large detached boulder. It is undercut and has a
square front.
Steve Crowe on the boulders at Goldsborough
125. VD
Straight forward climbing up the left side.
126. V1 5b *
The undercut left arête.
127. V1 5b
The front face without use of either arête.
The next buttress has a single, undercut, sharp arête.
128. VB 4c
The left side of the buttress.
129. V1 5c
Directly up the sharp arête. Care with first hold.
130. VB 4c
The right side of the boulder. Start 3m right of the arête.
The next boulder is larger with a good west wall and a sustained “Circular”
traverse.
131. VB 4c
The short left arête. Start on the right and finish up the left side.
132. V1 5b/c
A rising L-R traverse with a sitting start and finishing up the right most
problem.
133. V1 5a/b *
The next arête right can be climbed direct.
134. V1 5b
The wall between the arête and the next rib.
135. V1 5b *
A fine problem up the blunt rib on the west face.
136. VB 4c/5a
The centre of the wall, right of the rib (easier further R)
A new problem on the South side of the boulder
with the 'good West wall and a 'Circular' traverse'.
136a. The Sheep Pit V0 5a
Sit start in the pit with feet on the shelf. Up
the overhanging rib.
Mark Buxton 20/6/08
137. V5 6a **
The entire boulder can be traversed in either direction, very low at times easy
only on the north face.
About 20m right (west) are the last boulders of this group.
138. HVD
Just left of the arête on the third boulder.
139. VB 4c
The narrow wall between the arête and the blunt rib.
140. MS *
The rib right of the arête - good.
The Northern Boulders
Are about 75m right beyond a grassy slope.
The Isolated Arête
141. S
Climb the left side of the arête.
About 20m right is...
Long Wall
142. VB 4a
The left arête finishing at good holds.
143. VB 5a
The left side of the long wall moving left to finish at a jutting jug.
144. VB 5a *
The wall, finish just right of poised block.
145. VB 5a/b
Climb the middle of the wall.
146. VB 5a
Climb the wall using a good pocket as a LH layaway.
147. S
Climb the wall immediately left of the chimney/crack.
148. VB 5a
Hand traverse the break below the top.
149. V3 5c/6a
Traverse the wall below the upper break from L-R, finish by climbing up at the
good pocket.
About 20m right is...
Dobson Boulder
150. VB 4a
The left arête of the buttress, in two pitches!
151. VB 4b
The double mantelshelf.
152. VB 4b
The wide central crack, without stepping off the block.
153. Solid Gold V3 6a **
The awesome hanging corner/groove.
154. V3 6a *
The hanging prow on its right edge.
155. V2 5c
The slab, immediately opposite the prow.
156. V1 5b *
The centre of the slab, left of the “D” in Dobson.
157. VB 4a
The right edge by the inscription “Dobson”.
158. V1 5a/b *
The same edge with a sitting start low down to the right.
Full
details in the
North East England Guide
Return to top of page
Return to Home Page
|
