Map Reference: NT792032
This large rambling crag is very dirty and has been subject to quarrying and is loose in part. Despite this, routes have been reported and there is scope for more. The crag is situated on the northern edge of Great Dour Hill above Byrness in Redesdale, 8 miles north of Otterburn on the A696. The crag is best approached from the Cottonshopeburn forestry picnic site. Drive up the track and park at the first ford. Walk along the riverside track, plodging through several fords en route until the edge of the forest is seen. Head for the fence on the right and follow it up to about level with the crag, then traverse the hillside to the crag. There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.
The climbs are described from left to right and lie on the right hand side of
the quarried bay in the centre of the crag.
1. Rob Roy 12m VS 5a
Climb the wall left of the chimney to the flake and layback this to the thin
crack which is climbed to an awkward finish.
Direct Start HVS 5b
Climb the fine arête and wall directly beneath the thin crack to join it at its
foot.
2. Great Dour Chimney 12m VD
Climb the chimney on the left and exit through the cave at the back taking care
with loose blocks.
Direct Finish HVS 5b
The overhang is climbed direct and though safe, is awkward, strenuous and dirty.
3. Chimney Variant 10m MVS 4c
Climb Great Dour Chimney for 7 metres then exit along an obvious ledge on its
right wall. Move round the arete into a groove and climb this moving right to
finish.
4. Culloden 15m E1 5c **
Climb the rather messy initial overhang of the central corner and continue up
the groove to a good resting place beneath the roof. Surmount the roof and
continue up the magnificent wide crack above.
5. The Bagpipes 15m S *
Surmount the overhang and continue up the corner direct.
FIRST ASCENTS:
| Chimney Variant | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson |
| Culloden | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson |
| Great Dour Chimney | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson |
| Rob Roy | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson |
| The Bagpipes | John Earl and Bob Hutchinson |
For more information about this crag visit the NMC website.
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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