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Great Wanney Crag

Map Reference:  NY933835

Altitude: 310m

Aspect: North West Facing
Approach: 25 mins
 

History
The early history of climbing on Great Wanney is in many ways the history of climbing in Northumberland as a whole and as such this early period is quite well documented in the front of the guide. The first routes were recorded by G.W. Young in 1902 and over the next thirty years or so a significant number of routes were recorded by him and his companions. The popularity of the crag continued and towards the end of the thirties A.P. Rossiter had become the local expert, climbing most, if not all, of the routes on the crag, at that time. Things stagnated somewhat after this and no recorded, significant developments took place until 1971 when Great Wall was climbed by Mick Foggin and Hugh Banner. In 1976 Bob Hutchinson and John Earl added Idiot Wind and the magnificent Northumberland Wall. Following the first ascent of the latter, an enormous hold was chipped which Hutchinson promptly filled in with concrete using sand from the base of the crag to obtain the correct colour match. 1978 was an eventful year with the same team producing the awesome Endless Flight, which was repeated within a matter of weeks by Karl Telfer and Martin Doyle thinking they were doing a first ascent. Nosey Parker and Broken Wing were two more significant routes by Hutchinson and Earl, the former had a dubious flake which although it housed all the runners wasn't secure enough to be used as a hold, all that now remains is the scar. That year also saw the arrival of Bob and Tommy Smith with two very bold routes, Last Retreat and Blue Arête. In 1980 Bob Smith added Thin Ice with Martin Doyle and Thunder Thighs with brother Tommy. It was some three years later however, before Bob accompanied by Earl added the latter routes dynamic and serious independent start. Also in this year Earl and Stewart added Osiris, discovering in the process that Pharaoh's Face up which it finishes was E3 and not Very Severe. On 24th July, 1981 whilst most of the country was watching the Royal Wedding; Smith and Earl were freeing the old aid route Swing High to produce the superb and sustained Absent Friend. Things remained peaceful until 1986 when John Wallace climbed Stairway to Heaven, which received its second and third ascents in the same day by Hugh Harris and Bob Smith respectively. In 1987 Harris broke through the Chapter House roof to give Willing to Sin. Hugh Harris returned in 1990 accompanied by Ian Cummings and climbed the very technical Policy of Truth, raising the crag standard to E6. In the following year the Wanneys was brought crashing into the nineties. Richard Davies and Andy Wilkinson climbed Katana with well spaced but good protection (falling off is not recommended), whilst Hugh Harris and John Wallace left their spring time calling card with the magnificent Crisis Zone E7, again raising the standard at the crag and collecting one of the counties most striking lines. Later that year Steve Crowe and Karin Magog presented Eastern Promise, the high level traverse of East Buttress. Stu Ferguson and Paul Morgan finished 1991 off with Marquee Metal. Ten years passed until Steve Crowe and Karin Magog, late in September 2001, spotted Skyline - a series of boulder problems up the Pharaohs Face. As the guide was being finalised Andrew Earl added a very hard start to pilot endless flight into the 21st Century.
 

Situation and Character
This impressive crag adopts a commanding position atop a triangular area of moorland and forest. The rock is a hard compact sandstone of excellent quality, although its northerly aspect does make it exposed to the elements. It has some of the best quality 'easy' grade routes in the county (its V Diffs and Severes having tested many Very Severe leaders over the years) and the harder routes although often intimidating, provide quality and often well protected climbing in superb situations. The Great Wanney fault which lies behind the crag line a few hundred meters to the east of the main crag, provides a quantity of subterranean climbing, but many of the entries have been blocked.
 

Approaches and Access
The best approaches are reached from the A696 Newcastle-Otterburn road which is left at Knowesgate. To reach the crags from the south, park at Sweethope Loughs and follow the line of the right of way over the moors to the top of the crag, this can often be boggy after a spell of rain. Perhaps the easiest approach is to walk in from the north along a Forestry Commission track which, which is a designated permissive path. From Knowesgate follow the Sweethope Loughs road but take the right fork and continue for about 2 miles to park opposite wide gateway. Do not block access to the large forestry vehicles. The distance to the crag from either direction is about 1½ kilometres and takes approximately twenty five minutes. There is a right of access to the crag under CRoW.

Malcolm Rowe and Nev Hannaby above Great Wanney

The Climbs
 

Eastern Section
These are described from left to right. 200 metres left of the East Buttress of the Main Crag is a series of steep vegetated walls split by cracks. A number of routes have been climbed in this area but only the best of the worst have been described. A metal stake provides the only belay.
 

1. Left Crack 8m MVS 4c
 

2. Dennis 8m E2 6a
 

3. Right Crack 8m VS 5a
 

100 metres left of East Buttress is a prominent isolated buttress with a crevasse at its base. The next three climbs take the front face of the buttress.
 

4. Pitfall 9m E2 5b *
 

5. Aces High 9m E2 5b
 

6. Marquee Metal 9m E3 5c
 

Main Crag
The main crag starts with the East Buttress which is capped by a large roof and has the conspicuous boundary wall/fence leading up 10 metres to its right.
 

7. Eastern Promise 9m E2 5c
Start in the cleaned corner at the left side of East Buttress and make a move up to the obvious break. Hand traverse rightward to a junction with East Buttress Direct. Finish easily up this.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 5th July 1991

8. Eastern Ecstasy 15m E4 6a
A high quality, high pump, high-level traverse of the East Buttress. Start as for Eastern Promise as far as the junction with Jungle Warfare (high runner). Continue hand traversing round the front of the buttress, crossing East Buttress Direct and utilising an upside down hands off rest, to eventually finish at Idiot Wind. Many friends were used for protection.

Steve Crowe, Simon Gee         14th August 1991

9. Jungle Warfare 9m E3 6b
 

10. Eastern Traverse 11m HS 4b *
 

11. East Buttress Direct 15m E3 5c **
 

12. Thunder Thighs 15m E5 6b *
 

13. Idiot Wind 15m E4 5c **
 

14. Great Chimney 12m VD **

Malcolm Rowe leading Great Chimney

15. Obverse Direct 14m HS 4c *
Direct Finish 5a
 

16. Absent Friend 14m E5 6b ***

Graeme Read leading Absent Friend

Karin Magog leading Absent Friend

17. Crisis Zone 15m E7 6c ***

Ged Desforges despatching the third ascent of Crisis Zone

18. Endless Flight 15m E5 6a ***
Variation E5 6b
Traverse out of Boundary Corner on the lowest break to join the arête below the threads on Endless Flight. Spectacular moves lead directly up the arête to gain the threads above. Continue directly up the arête above.

Steve Crowe, Karin Magog   4th August 2001       

Direct Start E8 7a

Andrew Earl making the first ascent of Endless Flight direct start.

19. Policy of Truth 15 m E6 6c *

Darren Stephenson on the second ascent of Policy of Truth.

20. Boundary Corner 15m VD ***
 

21. Hawk Slab 15m HVS 5a *
 

22. Dove's Nest Crack 11m HVS 5a
 

23. Patchett's Plunge 12m E3 5b **
 

24. Idiot's Delight 12m HS 4c ***
 

25. Loony's Lament 12m HVS 5b
 

26. Great Wall 15m HVS 5b ***

Charlotte Telfer climbing Great Wall

Great Wall Direct Finish E5 6a *

Ian Denton making a rare onsight of Great Wall Direct Finish E5

27. Katana 15m E6 6b
 

28. Foxes Hole 12m D
 

29. Spare Rib 6m E4 6a
 

30. Karabiner Crack 6m VS 5a
 

31. Bilberry Wall 8m VS 5a
Direct Start E3 6a
 

32. Nose Chimney 14m VD
 

33. The Wine O 8m HVS 5b
 

34. The Last Retreat 14m E4 6a *

Steve Crowe toping out on The Last Retreat

35. Nosey Parker 14m E5 6a *
 

36. Central Gully East 11m D
 

37. Central Gully West 14m S
 

38. Northumberland Wall 15m E2 5c ***

Karin Magog enjoying Northumberland Wall

39. Osiris 15m E3 5c
 

40. Pharaoh's Face 18m E3 5c
Variation Start 5b
Direct Finish E3 5c
The wall to the right of the arête can be climbed direct at E3 5c.
Steve Crowe and Karin Magog 14th August 1991

Pharaoh's Face, can you see it?

41. Skyline 18m E5 6b
A series of boulder problems one above another following the arête direct. Start up what was the Variation Start to Pharaohs Face to the first ledge (and upper ground level). Hard moves from beneath the roof follow the left edge and gain the obvious jugs on the nose and then continue with decreasing difficulty to the second ledge. Gather yourself before launching directly up the final arête to an eventual pull round onto flutings as shared with Pharaohs Face and Osiris.

Steve Crowe, Karin Magog   2nd September 2001  It is also possible (and much easier) to pull over the roof on the right side.  

42. Main Wall 12m MS **
 

43. Lichen Chimney 9m M

Andrew Philipson climbing Litchen Chimney

44. Broken Blocks Staircase 9m M
 

45. Dirty Flue 9m M
 

46. Blue Arête 8m E4 6a
 

47. The Brute 8m HVS 5a *
 

48. Enery's Ammer 11m E2 5b *
 

49. Sweethope Crack 11m HS 4b *
 

50. Squeezy Bill 11m D
 

51. Rake's Crack 12m E1 5b **

Steve Crowe adding protection to Rake's Crack

Rake's Crack

52. Rake's Arête 15m VD
Direct Finish E3 5c
 

53. The Jibber 12m E1 5c
 

54. Jacob's Ladder 12m VD **

Andrew Render climbing Jacobs Ladder.

55. Stairway to Heaven 13m E5 6a
 

56. Rake's Progress 12m VD
 

57. Epitaph 11m MVS 4b
 

58. Girdle Traverse 150m HVS 5b
 

Western Section
An isolated buttress 20 metres west of the main outcrop provides the following four climbs.
 

59. Spider Crack 12m MVS 4c
 

60. Broken Wing 12m E3 5c
 

61. Raven's Nest 12m VD **
Variation Finishes VS 5a

Kevin Thompson climbing the classic VD, Raven's Nest

62. Thin Ice 12m E4 6a ***

Karin Magog climbing the superb Thin Ice

The following five routes are on the overhanging buttress to the right of the Raven's Nest area.
 

63. Heather Slab 8m D
 

64. Old Holborn 12m E1 5b
 

65. Golden Virginia 17m E1 5b
 

66. California Crack 18m HVS 5a *
 

67. Arête and Groove 13m VD
 

68. Task Force 13m E3 5c
 

69. Golden Gate 15m MVS 4c
 

70. West Chimney 12m D
 

71. The 16 ½ Pint Pig 13m E1 5b
 

72. War Monger 9m E1 5b
 

73. Lee's Leap 9m MVS 4c
 

Chapter House
30 metres further west is a buttress with a large overhang and a ledge just above ground level, the Monk's Bench.
 

74. If Looks Could Kill 6m E1 5c
 

75. At the Witches Trial 6m HVS 5a
 

76. 'A' Crack 5m VD
 

77. Willing to Sin 9m E4 6a *
 

78. 'B' Crack 7m HVS 5a *
 

79. Blowin Free 7m E1 5b
 

80. Corned Beef 7m E1 5b
 

81. 'B' Corner 7m D
 

82. 'B' Arête 7m VD
 

Buttress just right of Chapter House

Alliance of the Mind E3 6b 
start below the steep arête at the LH side of the buttress . Climb this to a good hold and a hard move gives an easier finish.
Richard Davies, solo 11.9.1988

The Great Central Route HVS 5a            
Right of the previous route. climb the rippled wall to the overlap. Pass this using a good hold and follow holds slightly rightwards to the top.
Richard Davies, solo 11.9.1988

Paul's Puny Pecker E2 5c 
Climb the crack to the right of the Great Central Route, or the wall to it's left to reach a block in the rook below the arete. Male a trying move left onto the arête and continue easily up it before moving left to finish up The Great...
Richard Davies, solo 11.9.1988

Disagreement Kind E6 6a 
Low in the grade but serious. Start up Sweethope crack to the roof. pull direct round this to a superb jug and climb the arete to a break. Step up and reach the faint arête, committing un-protected moves up this lead to the top (crux).
Richard Davies, solo 11.9.1988
 

Two Tier Buttress
40 metres further west is an impressive two tier buttress giving four climbs.
 

83. Games Without Frontears 12m HVS 5b
 

84. Two Tear Crack 9m E1 5c *
 

85. War Without Tears 9m E1 5c
 

86. Veil of Tears 30m HVS 5b

27 metres right of Two Tear Crack is a short buttress at a slightly lower level.
 

87. Silently Snitched from Stu 6m E1 5b