Climbonline.co.uk

Map Reference: NU092200

A south facing sandstone quarry with some reasonable routes, but the ambience is marred somewhat by the fact that the quarry is used for disposal of rubbish, which has also led to the reduction in length of some of the routes.
From the village of Eglingham on the B6346 road north of Alnwick, continue north for approximately 1 mile to a road junction on the right, signposted to Harehope. Follow this narrow road for about 100 metres to a gate on the left which gives access to the quarry.
 

1 Out On A Limb 15m E3 5b *
From the large square recess climb out on the right wall to reach the big ledge at 5m. Start up the hanging corner right of the tree, using it initially to bridge into the corner. After a few meters move left onto the wall and up to a hard mantelshelf onto a sloping ledge, followed by an equally difficult mantleshelf to finish.

2 Hair Of The Dog 15m E2 5b
From the incut corner make a rising hand traverse across the left wall, up to the large ledge. Climb the hanging corner right of the tree as for Out On A Limb but continue straight up, passing the small Rhododendron on it's left to an awkward finish.

3 Legend In Your Own Time 15m E4 5c *
Climb up the incut corner to below the bulging block. Move right then back left onto the undercut wall and make some hard moves to mount the left end of the ledge. Climb the left side of the wall above, moving right at the top to make an awkward mantleshelf.

4 On The Shelf 15m E2 5b **
Climb the right wall of the incut corner to gain the foot of the thin vertical crack at 3m. Follow the crack and wall above to reach a flake in the recess. Climb up boldly to reach the right end of the ledge to make an awkward mantleshelf. Continue up the corner to the top.

5 Warren Wall 20m E2 5b **
Step up onto the ledge on the right side of the wall and gain sufficient height to step around the edge into the short vertical crack and climb up to the flake in the recess. Traverse right to a short corner and follow it up onto the slab, climbing up the line of thin cracks to the top.

6 Bigwig 15m HVS 5a
Climb up the small corner and crack to a chockstone (crux) and up onto the lower left end of a large ledge. Continue up the corner above onto the slab and follow its right edge and the corner to the top. 6a for the short.

7 Cruising The Line 20m E3 5c *
Starts below the right hand end of the large ledge at 6m. Climb up the wall for 3m. then hand traverse the horizontal crack to the chockstone on Bigwig to gain the left end of the ledge. Climb the corner above to reach the right end of the horizontal crack splitting the slab and traverse into the vertical cracks. Climb up, then left across the slab via two pockets to the left arête and up to the top.

8 Twilight Hour. 16m E5 5c **
Start below the right hand end of the large ledge as for Cruising The Line. Climb the wall to the ledge moving left into the corner. Climb the corner to gain the flake on the right wall and hand traverse out on it to make an awkward move up onto its top. Make difficult moves up onto the steep slab and continue boldly to reach the V slot in the headwall to gain the top.

9 Fatal Attraction 14m E4 5c ***
Climbs the prominent arête above the break. Start at the foot of the wall below the arête. Climb up to the left end of a small roof and pull past it via a pocket above to reach a higher pocket. Using the flake make a difficult move to reach a horizontal break. Climb the arête on it's right side (protection in a pocket at half height) with the most exciting moves at the top. A Northumbrian classic!

10 Wailing Wall 18m E5 5c **
Climb up in the broken corner below the small roof and traverse right then up via the large pothole to the ledge. Start up the false crack line for 2m then diagonally left across the wall to the arête (protection in a pocket). Move back right onto the wall and boldly climb up its centre to the top.

11 Vale Of Tears 14m E4 5b **
From below the right hand side of the wall on the left of the open book corner, climb up leftwards to the large pothole and onto the ledge. Climb the flake crack line (dubious protection in a finger pocket at 3m) with a difficult move to reach a shallow pocket. Continued sustained climbing brings good horizontal holds within reach followed by a thin crack line and an awkward move onto the top.

12 Mad Jack 18m HVS 5a *
From the rock step below the crack in the left side of the open book corner, climb up to make an awkward mantelshelf onto the ledge at 5m. Continue up the open corner to a ledge below a Birch tree, and finish up the wall on the left.

13 Hare And Hounds 20m HVS 5a *
Start at a twisting crack below the centre of the open book corner. Climb up the ledge at 5m. Traverse left across the face to the arête and step around into the foot of the large corner. Climb the corner; the difficulties easing towards the top.

14 Bumblies Boulevarde 20m VS 4b
Start at the shallow open groove in the right side of the open book corner. Follow the groove to the first ledge and move left into the centre of the corner. Continue up past a drill hole to the slab above and exit right, climbing the obvious scoop to the top.

15 Spear And Jackson 20m E1 5a
Start as for the previous route but continue directly up the right corner to finish up the obvious scoop to the top.

Right Wing
Right hand side of the open book corner

16 Night Owl 12m VS 4b
Start 2m right of the open book corner and climb up to the thin crack line 2m right of the corner. Follow the line of the crack to the notch in the large ledge and step left to climb the rib to reach grass ledges on the right.

17 White Rabbit 10m HVS 5a *
Start 3m right of the open book corner. Climb the wall to the horizontal break to reach the foot of the vertical finger crack which is followed to the large ledge.

18 Mad Hatter 10m E1 5a
Start 4m right of the open book corner. Climb up to the pothole above the break and climb the wall on the right of the crack to the ledge.

19 Thumper 10m VS 4c
Start in a shallow recess 6m right of the open book corner. Climb up to the break and finish up the wall 2m left of the arête.

FIRST ASCENTS: