HECKLEY CRAG
Map Reference:
NU188164
An interesting north east facing little overhanging crag situated about two miles north of Alnwick and just west of the A1. The approach is best made from the old A1 where cars can be left in a lay by on top of the hill. There is no public right of way to the crag.
There
have been problems with access in the past. Please ensure that all gates are
left closed.
The
routes are described from left to right.
1.
Black Hole 8m VS 5a
The roof flake above the pool.
2.
Poisoning Pigeons in the Park
10m E4
6b
Climbs
the impending wall to the right of the Black Hole. Climb as for the Black Hole
to the roof. Swing out right to obvious holds and then directly up to a jug
(Friends). Traverse right and up following the obvious line to the slight prow
(Friend). Pull over with difficulty to finish.
Kevin
Howett, Paul Procter.
Spring 1990
3.
Hunting the Badger by Owl Light 9m E4 6a
Climbs the roof between Black Hole and The Birch. Start at a short rib in the middle of the wall. Go up diagonally rightwards to a lurch over the overhang to jugs.
The
hanging corner in the centre of the crag.
Steve Blake
5. Meteorite 2002 NY40 E5 6c
Climb the rib to the right of The Birch to the roof. THE MOVE is then made right and up to gain the shelf. Make easier moves to gain the top of the rock. Grapple with the vegetation to gain the top of the crag. A sling has been left around the tree for safety. Subsequent ascents would sensible stop at the top of the rock.
Andrew Earl 17th August 2002
6.
Jack by the Hedge 14m E3 6a
Climb the left wall of the large niche to the right of the birch. From the horizontal flake make a long reach to the first break, continue up to a long traverse line and follow this to a tree.
7.
Liquorice Torpedo 10m E3 6a
The
overhangs to the right of previous route.
Steve
Blake, Pete Kirton
For more information about the bouldering see the Northumberland Mountaineering Club Bouldering Guide page 88.
The Gallery:
Heckley Crag
Catching the summer evening sunlight. Steve Crowe and John Earl
Finally two new boulder problems at the right hand end of the crag:
Short and Sharp B5 6b The arête left of problem 26.
Karin Magog 29th May 2002
Golden Rays B4 6a The wall right of problem 26.
Steve Crowe 29th May 2002
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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Northumberland Bouldering update has more information for this crag
