Henhole

Situation and Character
The Henhole Crags are situated on both sides of the College Burn high on the west side of Cheviot which is the highest mountain area in Northumberland, rising to 815 metres and consisting of a vast stretch of wild moorland uncrossed by road. The Henhole is composed of igneous rock which in general is sound. It is a most impressive situation, the crags looming high above the burn. The approach is long and the situation exposed to the elements. However, the crag dries quickly after rain and if the weather is good the rewards are great, providing good climbing in the lower grades with a definite mountaineering flavour. The igneous rock of these crags provide a strongly contrasting climbing medium to most of the rest of the county and, while the rock is generally sound, care must be taken on some lines.

Approaches and Access
From Wooler continue on the A697 towards Coldstream, branching left about 2 miles from Wooler at Akeld. Continue for a further 3 miles to West Newton where a left turn is made to Hethpool. The road from Hethpool to Mounthooly Farm (5miles) is a public right of way on foot, but to take a car requires written permission from John Sale & Partners, College Valley Estate Office, Wooler (closed weekends) which should be sought in advance. Telephone 01668 2811611. From Mounthooly a good track leads south into the Henhole (3 kilometres); allow an hour. A mountainbike ride from Hethpool to just short of the crags gives access at any time without the need for a permit. An alternative approach from the north is to drive to Cocklawfoot, then walk east following the Cheviot Burn for 1200 metres, ascend Auchope Rigg and cross the col between Auchope Cairn and The Schill. The Henhole lies below and to the right. Walking time again one hour.

Cool Alligator IV 25m
Start as for Alligator Crawl but where that route steps left continue up the steep wall to gain the ramp and groove leading to the top of the crag.

"The route really is worthwhile, apart from the first 3m it takes a line which is avoided by the rest of the neighbouring climbs and was climbed on good, but thin, ice with virtually no moves just on rock." Rick Barnes

20a Conclusion Super Direct 14m E3 5c *

Climb Conclusion to the overhang. Surmount this direct using a hanging flake just above the lip, bold and powerful, to gain crimps then better holds.

Richard Pow, Graeme Read (both led) 1st September 2002

25a Hooly's Horror 14m HVS 5b *

A direct and fairly strenuous line from the shelter to the Rake, starting 2 metres left of Hooly's Delight. Climb steeply up to the cracks then make a hard move to gain the niche and move left to the base of the obvious corner crack (rest). Up this to a good spike and continue more easily up the pillar above, right of Shelter Wall.

Graeme Read, Richard Pow 1st September 2002

An excellent route with the crux at the top. Climb Cannon Hole Direct to the block and overhang, step up, arrange small wire protection and climb direct to the top in a superb position on good holds.

"We also found The Brute (HVS 5a), on the same Buttress, to be very bold and Fingery Jim (E1 5b) looks good but needs a clean. We also feel that Cannon Hole Direct and College Grooves (both HS) deserve a lot more attention as they are both stunning routes for their grade."

Winter climbing in Northumberland is not a new pursuit, the ice falls that form on Cheviot during extended periods of cold weather have long been an attraction to local climbers. However, following trends in other parts of the country, there has been some recent exploration of the higher crags of the area resulting in some routes of a more marginal nature. Typically, these are mixed routes requiring an extended spell of very cold temperatures to make them viable.
While this style of climbing may be acceptable on the hard rock of the Cheviot massif it will never be so on a sandstone crag, no matter how thick the build up of ice. Climbers are asked to act with a responsibility to others and to future generations. If you want to use axes and crampons do it on the Cheviot crags when there is sufficient snow and ice, otherwise go to Scotland!

History
No record has been found of the first winter ascent of the Bizzle Burn and undoubtedly there have been other exploratory, and unrecorded, climbs in the Cheviot Hills. However, most of the mixed routes described below were first climbed during a stable period of cold weather at the beginning of 2003. Richard Pow and Rick Barnes started the ball rolling early in January by climbing the obvious, and well iced, line of Cool Alligator and several variations on the small icefalls to the left of the buttress. At the same time on the opposite side of the valley, Scottish climber Graeme Little was soloing two obvious lines on Peake's Buttress; the right-hand ridge and the central gully via an entry from the left. This was sufficient to stir Tim Catterall into activity when he soloed seven lines on and around Peake's Buttress in one day, including variations and a direct start to the lines climbed by Little the previous month. Three days later Tim returned with Richard Pow to make the first ascent of the hard Dogs of War.

Note that the Estate will not issue permits to drive up the valley if there is snow on the road.

Jacob's Bladder III,3 12m
Climb the large icicle that forms to the left of Jacob's Ladder in hard winters.

Cool Alligator IV,5 23m
Start as for the summer line of Alligator Crawl and follow this until it moves left at the junction with Yellow Slab. Instead, continue straight up on vertical ice to reach a series of grooves leading to the top.
To the left of this buttress several worthwhile icefalls often form and provide a variety problems and an afternoon's sport.

Peake's Buttress
The north facing buttress on the opposite side of the burn from Henhole Wall.
Note: These climbs should only be attempted if the turf is hard frozen; the Turfulator also needs a build up of ice on the first wall.

Titus Torquous IV,5 54m **
1) 26m. Start 10 metres left of the central gully. Climb a rightwards slanting, steep ramp to a ledge system, traverse right into the central gully and follow this to a steep step and belay.
2) 28m. Climb the step above then up to a constricted chimney, which slants up left. Technical moves lead to a grassy ledge. Follow the groove above to the top. The chimney represents the crux and is hard to protect unless well iced.

Turfulator IV,5 52m **
1) 24m. Start directly below the central gully. Technical climbing on ice smears and turf leads to a ledge at the bottom of the central gully. Follow the gully to a steep step and belay.
2) 28m. Climb the step and follow the gully until blocked by an overhang, make an exposed traverse right onto the crest of the buttress and follow the obvious turf line to the top.

Timmy Tiptoes IV,3 30m
Start in a recess to the right and lower down than the central gully. There is a flat grassy ledge at 3 metres. Climb up onto this using good turf. Follow steep turf to a small triangular recess. A hard move out of this leads to a turf line, which is followed rightwards and then back leftwards to a large ledge left of the pinnacle.
The route can be finished here by traversing off right along the ledge or continued up the buttress behind at III,3.

College Burn Upper Falls III,2 25m
The upper fall, 100 metres higher up the burn past Henhole Crag can be climbed on either the left or right side. This is dangerous unless the plunge pool at the bottom is well frozen. In very hard winters the whole fall will form reducing the grade to II.

College Burn upper falls ice slabs There is some slabby ground on the same side of the stream as Peake's Buttress and a little below the upper falls. Several routes at Grade II can be climbed here; they vary from between 15 metres to 20 metres.

There are also some excellent icefalls that form directly left of Peake's Buttress in a hard winter. Although short they are quite steep and give interesting ice bouldering.