(Northumberland Bouldering Guide page 94)
Map Reference:
NU073247
Alt. 200m.
South-West to North facing
HEPBURN
NGR NU 073247
Alt. 200m.
South-West to North facing
Situation and Character
The edge and boulders here have rock of as good a quality as anywhere in the
county. The view of the Cheviot and surrounding country is possibly the finest
from any crag in the county. To date very few easy problems have been cleaned,
or included here, but there is scope. Indeed this guide is just a selection of
the problems, and areas climbed on here. Some of the problems are relatively
high. Those problems also tend to have appalling landings. Such problems have
been marked ‘H’, for hospital. Although apparently exposed, the problems are in
fact sheltered from the prevailing wind.
Approach and Access
From the A1 take minor road signed to Chillingham Castle 6mile north of Alnwick.
From the A697 take the B6346 Alnwick to Chatton road. About 1m south of
Chillingham village turn east for Hepburn. The road follows the south wall of
Chillingham castle grounds. Go through the farm turning sharp left then right,
and stop at a Forest Enterprise car park, at the start of a steep hill, park on
the right. You will see the edge and boulders on the skyline as you approach the
farm. For the main area follow the track through the gate for 100m, and follow a
path on the left with a handrail up through the trees. Five minutes if you are
slow.
History
Undoubtedly people will have done odd things here for years. However, most of
the problems and routes were developed and recorded after Alec Burns moved to
Powburn in 1994.
The Problems
The Climbs
The first climbs are described from left to right. The best warm ups however are
at the right end of the main escarpment.
Matterhorn Boulder
Its shape is a give-away. Some of the small paths pass it.
1. Matterhorn Aręte V3 6a (H)
The large aręte.
2. Stunning Scoop VB 4c
To the right is a splendid scoop.
3. Faint Scoop V3 6a
Right again is a faint undercut scoop. Climb this with increasing difficulty.
Behind this block is a boulder which drops down to become an aręte.
4. The Keel V3 6a
Climb the prow direct, mantle on to the top.
5. Traverse V4 6a (H)
SS., under the aręte. Right hand undercutting the keel, left hand on the sloper
on the aręte, feet on the boulder supporting the whole thing. Move up the aręte
and along until you can step off onto the path.
The Main Edge
To the right is a chimney and a prominent undercut prow.
6. The Prow V5 6b
SS., from just left of the back of the roof, climb the prow.
7. The Wall V4 6b
The wall 1.5m left of the crack. Crux at the bottom.
Just right is another chimney, the left wall of which forms a square aręte. The
next 4 problems start with hands on the large ledge under the roof, and aręte.
8. The Crack V7 6c
The crack, and holds immediately to its sides.
9. Crack and Aręte V3 6a
Use both the crack and aręte.
10. Aręte Only V5 6b
The aręte itself, not using the crack to the left.
11. The Wall V5 6b
Over the roof and up the wall just right of the aręte.
12. Crack Problem V2 5c (H)
The thin crack.
13. Aręte Problem V1 5a (H)
The photogenic aręte is climbed on its right.
14. Wall Problem V4 6a (H)
Climb the centre of the wall right of the aręte. A rockover may lead to slopers
just below the top.
Orthopaedic Boulder
The edge cuts back but a large detached boulder effectively continues it.
All the problems are high and serious. Hence the name.
15. Orthopaedia V7 6c (H)
The left aręte starting off the block. Although the first few moves are the
hardest, it is still advisable to look at the top before committing to the jump!
16. Ian Fitzpatrick Wall V8 6c (H)
Climb the wall between some chicken heads, fluted crimps and pockets to a
sloping top out.
17. Paul Carruthers Wall V6 6b (H)
Take a direct line to the large sloper and top out on the crimps on the lip
directly above.
25th September 2005
18. Orthopaedic Aręte V4 6b (H)
Climb the blunt aręte on slopers. Inspect the top first as all the difficulties
are not apparent from below!
19. Trauma Aręte V3 5c (H)
Climb the crack and the aręte, the crux is at the top!
20. Slab Two V1 5b (H)
The steep slab just right of the Trauma Aręte.
21. Slab One V0 5a (H)
Climb the slab 2.5m right of the prominent aręte.
The Main Edge continues…
This area has some very easy warm ups.
22. The Side Wall V9
The wall to the left of the aręte can be climbed using very small but positive
edges.
23. Aręte V3 6a
Start on undercuts climb the aręte on poor holds on the left. Easier on the
right V1.
23a. Groove V1 5a
Start just right of the aręte. Climb the groove just right of the aręte.
24. The Traverse V2 5c
Start up the aręte (problem 23), then traverse right to finish up problem 30.
25. The Wall V1 5b
Climb the centre of the bulging wall.
26. Short Crack Easy
Easiest problem recorded at Hepburn.
27. Long Crack Easy
Not quite so easy!
28. Hard Problem V3 6a
Climb the steep slab utilizing vertical creases and a one finger layaway hole to
gain the top.
29. The Flake Easy
The dog leg flake.
30. The Rounded Aręte VB 4b
Short but interesting.
31. The Ramped Aręte VB 4b
Climb the aręte.
32. The Tricky Wall V0 5a
Undercut the small pocket to the break.
33. Fine Aręte V3 6a
SS. Climb the fine aręte from sitting.
34. High Level Traverse V3 6a
Start at the very right end and traverse down a little and left to two prominent
rugosities, then reach back up to the top break. Reach left and continue around
the aręte only touching the top after the thin crack left of the aręte.
Finishing by manteling above the aręte reduces the graded to V2 5c.
35. Low Level Traverse V3 6a
Start at the very right end and traverse down a little and left to two prominent
rugosities, as for (34) but traverse at a low level to the bottom of the aręte.
Finish up this as for (33).
The Boulders
Below and to the right of Orthopaedic Boulder is a line of four smaller
blocks.
Another Boulder!
This boulder has a fine vertical west facing wall.
36. North Face V3 6a
The short slabby wall with a small layaway/undercut.
37. Another Aręte RH V4 6b
Start up the aręte but layback right off the good hold to make a long reach
right for the top. The same aręte is easier straight up. V3 6a.
38. Another Flake V3 6a
Climb the faint flake in the centre of the wall. A sit start is possible. V6.
39. Yet Another Aręte V2 5c (H)
The sandy aręte is more serious than it looks!
Lip Boulder
To the right and at a slightly lower level is a boulder with an overhanging SW
side which provides a pleasant lip traverse.
40. Lip Problem V4 6b
SS., at the aręte. Pull up and traverse up the boulder using hold up to about
0.5m above the lip to the aręte, swing round it and stand up.
Aręte Boulder
The next boulder has a line of slot/pockets on its south face.
41. Left Aręte Problem V3 6b
SS. Climb the aręte.
42. South Face V2 5c
Climb the slightly overhanging wall using the pockets. You are not allowed to
use the footholds on the aręte or the left side of the small scoop!
43. The Wanderer V1 5b
Start at the right hand side of the pocketed wall, go up and across to the top
pocket, round the aręte, along the slopers until you can finish up the left
aręte.
Roof Boulder
This is the furthest right block.
44. Roof Problem LH V4 6b
SS with one hand and both feet on the block at the back. Finish by laybacking
out up the crack.
45. Roof Problem RH V4 6b
Start with left hand under the roof (you will see the chalk) and other hand on
the right edge of the roof. Climb the nose and finish on the top.
The Crag Area
Take the path to the top of the crag. When it splits take the right fork.
Follow it to the plateau. On the right a depression/small valley leads off and
down. Turn down this, follow it for 20m, cross it and follow a faint path near
the edge of another small drop. After about 100 to 150 m you come to an oak
tree. The biggest one hereabouts. Pass it and drop down to the right 30m or
thereabouts in front of you and down, should be an old fence, made of wooden
posts and wire. This is just back from the top of the crag.
The Crag Area Boulders
As you drop down from the oak tree there are some boulders on your right.
Immediately under the oak is a slab, with pockets in it. Below this is an
undercut south facing boulder, with the lip of the roof at mid body height.
46. Slab Problem One VB 4b
Climb the slab.
47. Slab Problem Two VB 4b
Climb the slab.
Long Boulder
Below the slab is a long boulder.
48. Problem V2 5c
SS. on the left back of the roof. Out and mantel at the left aręte.
49. Problem V3 6a
SS., just to the right, finish up shallow pockets.
5m behind these problems is the north face of this boulder.
50. Problem V2 5c
SS., just right of the flake, and left of the right edge of the boulder.
Layaways, and pocket to top and mantel.
51. Problem V2 5b
SS. Climb the flake.
Undercut Block
At the left end of this small face is another boulder, which is very undercut.
The next three problems are on here.
52. Problem V4 6b
SS., on boulder at right of roof, left hand in pocket, right on flake on lip.
Finish standing on the slab. No you cannot use the aręte.
53. Problem V3 6a
The right angle aręte just to the left hand on aręte, foot at chest height, and
stand up if you can. No you cannot use the holds or blunt aręte to the right
54. Problem V0 5a
On the face just left at the beginning of the roof lip is a line of pockets and
undercuts. Climb to mantelshelf. Why is this problem mentioned you ask? Well the
sit start has still to be done!
The Crag
Below these boulders is an old fence, made of wooden posts and wire. The
main crag can be seen across this. The crag is about 15m high. To the left of
the crag is a large boulder with a crack at on its left side.
55. A Northern Soul V7 6b
The left hand aręte of the boulder with a precarious finish. Some consider this
to be E5 6b.
Mark Thomas 1998
56. The Governor V9
Climbs to the right of A Northern Soul in the middle of the slabby front face of
the boulder. You can either start directly up the slab or use the crack to gain
the same position at the same grade. Make some long reaches to gain small
pockets and then a sloping top.
Andy Cowley on The Governor Font 7c, Hepburn
Photograph courtesy of the Tim Blythman collection
The following three routes climb the main buttress.
Long Lost E5 5c, The left hand line. Climb the wall to arrive at a pocket just
left of the obvious overlap. Move right and surmount the overlap with
difficulty. Finish more easily. Not many runners, but they may hold.
Mis-spent E4 6a, The central line Climb directly up the slab to a thin long
overlap. Follow the undercuts right to a groove. Climb the groove until forced
left along a fault. Finish easily from the end of the fault. You can place
runners but do not fall on them. Jesus Christ Pose E5 6b, Starting in the corner
crack (with a small tree growing above you) gain the break/ledge above and make
a raising traverse left. Make a long reach out left to a cusp and then friction
moves finds you in a hands free standing position. Continue leftwards using
undercuts until you reach a large scoop at the top of the crag. Exit left past a
small pine tree.
Small Block
In front of A Northern Soul is another boulder, its top being at ground
level.
57. Problem V0 5a
The left edge.
58. Problem V1 5b (check grade)
The centre.
59. Problem V1 5b
Just in from the right edge.
Titanic Boulder
Still at the crag area is a new boulder with an impressive aręte, reminiscent of
the bow of a ship. For this reason the boulder has been named the Titanic
Boulder. From the bottom of the crag walk right along a vague track through
saplings for about 15m and the boulder can be seen off the track through the
trees to the right. The face you approach has several large flutes on it's right
side.
60. Titanic Aręte V6 (sitting V7)
Using a short flake at the base of the aręte climb the aręte until you can reach
right into good flutings. For the sitting start, start under the small roof
using a good pocket and side pull on the right face. Reach another good pocket
and finish as for the standing start.
61. Titanic Flutes V2 5c
Either climb the flutes directly using a sidepull or traverse in right from the
crack.
Warm Up Boulder
This is reached most easily straight from the car park. Follow the orange
arrows through the picnic meadow, through the trees and turn left 120m after the
stile. Two minutes for the infirm (e.g. John). It has one long face and one
shorter face.
62. Traverse V3 6a
Start at the top of the short wall, (left wall as you look at the boulder).
Traverse down to the aręte then across the main wall with hands at mid height to
a slot, then to the right aręte and up to the top. (No you cannot use the big
dirty foothold just before the aręte. Or anything round the aręte. What’s wrong
with smears?). Back along the top, round the aręte and reverse the short wall.
The main wall has a sloping ramp crossing it. This is used for both heights of
traverse, for hands only. Use the top, best part on the top traverse.
63. Traverse V4 6b
The left wall can be traversed at a slightly lower level. Start on the same far
left rounded hold, and the obvious layaway. Use nothing on the top until the
aręte. Rejoin (63) at that point. Finish by reversing the start.
Jumbled Blocks
Down to the left of Matterhorn Aręte (1) is a jumble of boulders. Walk down the
path for 40m to the bottom of the jumble, the last boulder on the right has the
next problem.
64. Groove V3 6a
SS., on a block. One move leads to a mantle.
65. Undercut Aręte V4 6b
SS., under the undercut aręte. One hand in the hand jam, the other on the lip of
the roof. Climb the aręte until stood on top.
66. Traverse V5 6b
Start as (65) but on reaching the finger holds just below the top traverse left
onto the sloping top, (i.e. do not use the top until you have gone round the
aręte), finish by mantelling just left of the short groove as for (64).
Sadie’s Boulder
Follow round under the edge to the east you come to the large boulder you saw
from the path. The North West facing side is severely overhanging.
67. Traverse V6 6b
Traverse the boulder’s lip from the left aręte to the right aręte, and up the
right wall. Finish on the aręte diagonally opposite the one you started from. No
heel hooking. Slightly easier in reverse. There and back very pumpy. Back and
there, i.e. right to left to right, even pumpier!
68. Problem Start V6 6b
SS., to traverse! A thin crack runs up to the start on the left aręte. Sit on
the ground under it, and then climb to the start of the traverse. No, this does
not increase the grade of the traverse.
Half way along the overhanging face is a small corner. Above and left of it is a
one finger pocket.
69. Problem V6 6c
SS. Weird moves to pocket, top and mantelshelf.
Aręte Block
About 8m east is another boulder.
70. Obvious Aręte V1 5b
SS. The obvious aręte.
Unnamed Buttress
To the east there is a ridge of vegetation, go round or over it to the next
buttress. This is an undercut wall about 8m high.
71. Aręte VB 4c (H)
The right aręte. Hardest at the bottom.
72. Problem V6 6c (H)
Above the small roof at the left hand end is a pocket. Gain this and climb
straight up the wall. The crux is standing up using the pocket as a foothold.
Queen Bee Buttress
To the east a buttress can be seen with a lone mountain ash on top of it.
(This is Queen Bee Buttress, named after the former inhabitant of the one finger
pocket). A superb place in the late evening sun. To get there from the main
edge, follow the path onto the plateau. When it forks take the left fork. Then
look for the lone tree on top of the edge to your left.
73. Hanging Corner V2 5c
At the right end of the buttress a small hanging corner can be seen 3m up. Use a
sloper and a crimp to gain this, then the top.
Immediately left is a blunt aręte under a small wall.
74. Blunt Aręte One V5 6b
SS., from the two shallow pockets. Climb the wall using small slopers to a
break, then the top. A frustrating start, especially if hot. Easier for the
tall.
75. No Aręte V3 6a
Climb between the two aręte problems, not using any of their holds.
76. Blunt Aręte Two V5 6b
Left again another blunt aręte, with a one finger pocket to its left Use these
to gain the hanging aręte/pinch, the break then the top. Again possibly easier
for those over 6 feet.
The Plateau
Follow the path onto the plateau. When it forks take the left fork (as for
Queen Bees Buttress), then look for the copse of tree on skyline. Head for these
then walk south for about 100m where there is a trough. It is almost invisible
when approached from any direction, until you are right upon it.
77. Traverse V5 6b
Traverse without using the top.
Cleft Block
About 70m left (south’ish), is a large cleft boulder. Go to it. Behind it you
will find a 1.75m high wall, about 10m long.
78. Traverse V2 5c
Traverse the wall without using the top. No harder in either direction. The
furthest point right is where a boulder nearly meets the foot of the wall, 2m
right of a hand jam crack. Turn round and go back.
Triple Blocks
Another 100m or so right (south’ish) of problem (78) are three boulders.
79. Left Block Traverse V3 6a
SS. A left to right traverse below the lip on small crimps.
80. Middle Block Traverse V2 5c
SS., lip traverse of the middle boulder from right to left.
81. Trainer Traverse VB 4b
A rising traverse of the third boulder from left to right.
Last Block
Another 100m or so right is an undercut boulder, with a crack at its right
hand end.
82. LH Problem V1 5b
SS.,
83. Centre Problem V2 5c
SS.,
84. The Bulge V3 6a
SS.,
85. The Crack 53 V3 6a
SS., The crack. Graze those hands and arms.
86. Traverse V4 6a
SS., at the left of the boulder. Go right to rugosities, then to a sloping
ledge, then down to the bottom of the crack; finish to its right or up the
crack. Or over the bulge immediately left of the crack.
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