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OS Sheet 88
NGR NZ097411
Aspect
South
Altitude
325m
Approach Time 3 minutes
Text and Photos
Stu Ferguson
Situation and Character
A disused sandstone quarry, quick drying situated high up on the North
Apennine moors. Even with close proximity to a major road it has a very wild and
quiet feel. Although most of the finishes are loose there is much good rock here
to climb. It is very accessible from the A68 and may be worth a visit if you are
passing by either north or southwards. Local climbers will find this useful as
an evening climbing venue or coupled with a visit to another crag within the
area.
High Houselop Quarry
History
The crag was first stumbled upon in Spring 2003 while Stu was out for a run
across his local fells, where he literally fell into the quarry. The routes were
climbed and recorded by father and son team, Stu and Sam Ferguson.
Access and Approaches
There are 3 alternative parking spots. Park in the High Houselope picnic
site situated on the north side of the A68, The Lay By opposite the Picnic site
on the south side of the A68 or at the point where the footpath meets the south
side of A68 by a slight bend and by 2 houses, one house in construction. Take
the footpath between the 2 house’s follow this for 100m to the Quarry.
The Quarry is in between two Public footpaths, the south one utilizing the old
Railway line.
The Climbs
The climbs are described from left to right. There are 3 distinct areas to the
quarry. The west wall, central area and east wall. The east wall is 35 meters
long and 10 metres high and provides the best climbing at the quarry. The
central area and west walls are very loose and dirty. The climbs are described
from left to right.
West Wall
Five metres right of the end of the quarry is a prominent prow, good
bouldering is found around the prow.
East Wall
The east wall has an aręte at either end.
1. The Groove Severe 8m
1m from left end of wall is a groove, trend leftwards to finish at top of
aręte.
2. Second Groove Very Severe 5a 10m
3m right of The Groove, is a faint grove line, climb direct with a long
reach.
3. Disappearing Crack Very Severe 4c 10m
Just right of second groove is a crack line, which disappears.
4. Central Groove and Crack Severe 4b 8m
Right of the central aręte is a groove with a crack in the top wall.
5. The Wall Severe 4a 6m
Left end of the bay at the right end of the east wall is a low slab. Start
just left of the slab and climb trending slightly right.
6. Emma’s Traverse 5a/b 40m
Low Level Traverse of the East wall from aręte to aręte. Best climbed Left
to Right. Entertaining and with many variants. Best climbing in the quarry.
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| Sam Ferguson on Emma's
Traverse |
Sam Ferguson bouldering |
Quarry Overview |
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