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High Houselop

 

OS Sheet 88      NGR NZ097411
Aspect                South
Altitude               325m
Approach Time    3 minutes

Text and Photos  Stu Ferguson

Situation and Character
A disused sandstone quarry, quick drying situated high up on the North Apennine moors. Even with close proximity to a major road it has a very wild and quiet feel. Although most of the finishes are loose there is much good rock here to climb. It is very accessible from the A68 and may be worth a visit if you are passing by either north or southwards. Local climbers will find this useful as an evening climbing venue or coupled with a visit to another crag within the area.
 

High Houselop Quarry


History
The crag was first stumbled upon in Spring 2003 while Stu was out for a run across his local fells, where he literally fell into the quarry. The routes were climbed and recorded by father and son team, Stu and Sam Ferguson.

Access and Approaches
There are 3 alternative parking spots. Park in the High Houselope picnic site situated on the north side of the A68, The Lay By opposite the Picnic site on the south side of the A68 or at the point where the footpath meets the south side of A68 by a slight bend and by 2 houses, one house in construction. Take the footpath between the 2 house’s follow this for 100m to the Quarry.

The Quarry is in between two Public footpaths, the south one utilizing the old Railway line.

The Climbs

The climbs are described from left to right. There are 3 distinct areas to the quarry. The west wall, central area and east wall. The east wall is 35 meters long and 10 metres high and provides the best climbing at the quarry. The central area and west walls are very loose and dirty. The climbs are described from left to right.

West Wall
Five metres right of the end of the quarry is a prominent prow, good bouldering is found around the prow.

East Wall
The east wall has an aręte at either end.

1. The Groove Severe 8m
1m from left end of wall is a groove, trend leftwards to finish at top of aręte.

2. Second Groove Very Severe 5a 10m
3m right of The Groove, is a faint grove line, climb direct with a long reach.

3. Disappearing Crack Very Severe 4c 10m
Just right of second groove is a crack line, which disappears.

4. Central Groove and Crack Severe 4b 8m
Right of the central aręte is a groove with a crack in the top wall.

5. The Wall Severe 4a 6m
Left end of the bay at the right end of the east wall is a low slab. Start just left of the slab and climb trending slightly right.

6. Emma’s Traverse 5a/b 40m
Low Level Traverse of the East wall from aręte to aręte. Best climbed Left to Right. Entertaining and with many variants. Best climbing in the quarry.
 

 

Sam Ferguson on Emma's Traverse Sam Ferguson bouldering Quarry Overview

 

 

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