Map reference: NY787829
Alt 210m
West Facing
20 mins
History
It is not known who first discovered, or climbed on, Howlerhirst Crag but Howlerhirst Crack, Overlapping Corner, Harris Tweed and Howlerhirst Chimney were mentioned in the 1970 guide. Most of these, if not all, were the work of Gordon Thompson in the late sixties. The next recorded developments came in 1979. Whilst brother Bob played April Fool, Tommy Smith climbed an impressive blank looking arête protected only by his Guardian Angel. Climbed in E.B.'s this superb route was well ahead of its time in boldness. Slightly later Paul Stewart and Bob Smith added Mad March Hare and Autumn respectively. Richard Davies led Devils Soulmate in September 1989. Dave Pegg added Where Angels Fear to Tread in October 1991. The latest additions, Crazy Diamond and Shine On were by Steve Crowe and Karin Magog whilst checking the text for the current edition of the Northumberland Climbing Guide. This was followed by With Teeth by Dave Rudge in 2005.
Situation and Character
An impressive sandstone outcrop in a fine remote position west of
Bellingham. This west-facing suntrap is well worth a visit.
Approaches and Access
From the south take the B6320 towards Bellingham. Just after the passing the
Kielder Resource Centre and before crossing the River North Tyne, take the left
turn signposted to Hesleyside (opposite the cemetery). Follow this road for
three miles to High Carriteth farm. Drive up the farm track to High Carrieth
farm. Just before reaching the farmhouse park on the grass verge on the right
between the wood shed and the sheep pen. Let the farmer know that you have
parked there to go climbing. Walk along the new road/track towards the isolated
cottage. After about 250m where the track bends to the right strike out across
the field on a vague path in a south westerly direction aiming for the gate on
the horizon. Go through the gate and continue in a south westerly direction
towards the small rocks/crag. Skirt round beneath these to the right and head
across to the fence and then the crag. Close all gates and respect fences. The
crag is on CROW Access land but much of the access route is not and is with the
kind permission of Mrs Johnson of High Carrieth farm.
The Climbs
These are described on the highest central part of the crag and are
described from left to right.
1. Buggy 5m VD
2. Bogey 5m VD
3. Short Wall 5m VS
4. Howlerhirst Chimney 5m S *
possibly Gordon Thompson in
the late 1960's
5. Harris Tweed 9m VS 5a
possibly Gordon Thompson in
the late 1960's
6. Devils Soul Mate 10m E6 6b **
Richard Davies, Neil Brunger, Joseph Gilesphy 1989
7. Guardian Angel 11m E5 6a ***
Tommy Smith 1979
Guardian Angel E5 6a
8. Where Angels Fear to Tread 10m E6 6b ***
Dave Pegg, Lewis Grundy 1991
Where Angels Fear to Tread E6 6b
9. Overlapping Corner 5m HVS 5a *
possibly Gordon Thompson in
the late 1960's
10. Autumn 8m E1 5b
Bob Smith 1979
11. Crazy Diamond 8m E4 5c
The wall past the prominent but very dubious flake leads to a finish on
pockets.
12. Shine On 8m E3 5c **
The smoothest section of the wall is climbed starting up the left edge of
the large detached block.
Steve Crowe
Shine On E3 5c
13. Mad March Hare 9m E1 5b
14. July Fate 8m E3 5c
A bold start just left of the undercut section leads to an easier finish.
Karin Magog
14a With Teeth 8m
E4 6b/c
Make very hard moves up the arête direct to a small hold underneath the
roof. From here make a long reach to a small sloper above and pull through to
easier climbing finishing up the wall to the left of April Fool.
Dave Rudge June 2005
15. April Fool 9m E2 5b **
Bob Smith 1979
April Fool E2 5b
16. Howlerhirst Crack 8m HVS 5a *
possibly Gordon Thompson in the late 1960's
17. The Bleating of the Lambs 4m S
The centre of the short buttress to the right of the main crag.
Steve Crowe
18. Endangered Species 4m HVS 5b
The end wall of the buttress to the right of the main crag.
Steve Crowe
Bouldering
There is extensive opportunity for bouldering around the fringes of this crag. To either side of the main crag are smaller rocks, which give many short routes and problems. Below the crag the largest boulder provides an excellent warm up traverse at 5b/c. Many short up problems have also been worked out.
Howlerhirst Boulder traverse V2 5c
The following have almost certainly been done several times before but they are all three star problems so here's some proposed names!
Fathers Day Arête V2
Climb the arête on the first boulder you come to on the approach.
Haydn Maughan
Positive Mantle Attitude V3
Climb the
obvious mantelshelf in the sheep pen area to the right of the main crag.
Haydn Maughan
Grumpo's problem V3
Climb the undercut crack on the large boulder at the base of the crag.
Bryan O'Sullivan
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Northumberland Climbing Guide The definitive guide to climbing routes in Northumberland. Updates available from the NMC here.
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The Northumberland Bouldering Guide The Second Edition of the guide was written and produced by the people who developed the area. Updates available from the NMC here.
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Northumberland Bouldering update has more information for this crag