|
Climbonline.co.uk |
|
Map reference: NY787829 Alt 210m West Facing 20 mins
History It is not known who first discovered, or climbed on, Howlerhirst Crag but Howlerhirst Crack, Overlapping Corner, Harris Tweed and Howlerhirst Chimney were mentioned in the 1970 guide. Most of these, if not all, were the work of Gordon Thompson in the late sixties. The next recorded developments came in 1979. Whilst brother Bob played April Fool, Tommy Smith climbed an impressive blank looking arête protected only by his Guardian Angel. Climbed in E.B.'s this superb route was well ahead of its time in boldness. Slightly later Paul Stewart and Bob Smith added Mad March Hare and Autumn respectively. Richard Davies led Devils Soulmate in September 1989. Dave Pegg added Where Angels Fear to Tread in October 1991. The latest additions, Crazy Diamond and Shine On were by Steve Crowe and Karin Magog whilst checking the text for the current edition of the Northumberland Climbing Guide. This was followed by With Teeth by Dave Rudge in 2005.
Situation and Character
Approaches and Access
1. Buggy 5m VD
2. Bogey 5m VD
3. Short Wall 5m VS
4. Howlerhirst Chimney 5m S *
5. Harris Tweed 9m VS 5a
6. Devils Soul Mate 10m E6 6b **
7. Guardian Angel 11m E5 6a ***
8. Where Angels Fear to Tread 10m E6 6b ***
9. Overlapping Corner 5m HVS 5a *
11. Crazy Diamond 8m E4 5c
Steve Crowe Shine On E3 5c
13. Mad March Hare 9m E1 5b Karin Magog
14a With Teeth 8m
E4 6b/c Dave Rudge June 2005
April Fool E2 5b
possibly Gordon Thompson in the late 1960's
Steve Crowe
18. Endangered Species 4m HVS 5b
Bouldering There is extensive opportunity for bouldering around the fringes of this crag. To either side of the main crag are smaller rocks, which give many short routes and problems. Below the crag the largest boulder provides an excellent warm up traverse at 5b/c. Many short up problems have also been worked out.
Howlerhirst Boulder traverse V2 5c
The following have almost certainly been done several times before but they are all three star problems so here's some proposed names!
Climb the arête on the first boulder you come to on the approach. Haydn Maughan Positive Mantle Attitude V3 Climb the
obvious mantelshelf in the sheep pen area to the right of the main crag. Grumpo's problem V3 Climb the undercut crack on the large boulder at the base of the crag. Bryan O'Sullivan
Northumberland Bouldering update has more information for this crag
|