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HOWNS GILL QUARRY0.S. Sheet 88 NZ097489 Altitude 200m Aspect West facing Approach 5 minutes from parking place
Situation and Character Howns Gill lies between Consett and Castleside in County Durham, some 15 miles southwest of Newcastle. This west-facing old sandstone quarry is in a sheltered wooded valley. The rock is of variable quality particularly towards the top of the quarry, which has a height of 25m in places. Due to the nature of the rock, top roping techniques are recommended here and descriptions are written assuming the technique is used. The rock is usually vertical or overhanging with distinct lines to climb in places, however it is characterised throughout by an abundance of flat holds in the horizontal strata. Drawbacks aside, the ‘gill’ is a useful place to train and the height of the quarry gives the climbs a “big” feel. The sheltered aspect is another plus, with quick drying rock, and a visit early in the season can be worthwhile as tree cover casts some gloom over the main face in the summer. The quarry has been extensively developed in the past, however only the better lines are described here There are several long, low level ‘pumpy” traverses of varying grades of desperation.
History Malcolm Lowerson was responsible for detailing the routes at Howns Gill and although some of the routes may have been climbed before Malcolm started his records during the 1980’s. Only a selection of the better routes have been included in this guide.
Access and Approaches From Consett, take the A692 towards Castleside. Pass a roundabout, then take the next turn left (1/2 mile). Follow the narrow road to a picnic area on the left just before passing through a tunnel in the disused railway/walkway. Walk up onto the disused railway track (Known as the “Waskerley Way”), and follow this for about 100m (west) to the start of the viaduct. Turn off left onto a path through the woods, which runs gently down to the top of the quarry. Descend the (true) right bank of the quarry.
The Climbs The climbs are described in three sections: a) A small left-hand corner section. b) The main wall. c) Graffiti Buttress and right-hand cave area.
Initial Corner Two walls which converge to form a 9m corner.
1. Pup 4m VD Start the left side of the left wall below the first, broken crack. Climb the crack passing an overhanging block at 3m.
2. Fang 6m 4c Start a few metres right below a wall with an undercut base. Climb the wall using two rectangular slots and finish up the block with the serrated edge.
3. Doggy Bag 9m 5c Start as for Fang. Climb up to the two rectangular slots below the small overhang and step right to reach a pocket in a horizontal crack Climb up with difficulty to reach the two vertical slots on the wall. Climb to the top avoiding the corner.
4. Cold Nose Corner 9m 5a Climb the corner.
5. Dog End 9m 5c* Start just over 1 m right of the corner and beneath a weakness in the small overlap. Climb the steep wall direct making an awkward move at 5m.The centre of the smooth wall above is climbed on small holds.
6. Distemper Wall 9m 5a Start as for Dog End. Climb the steep wall, but trend right to reach thin crack lines, which are followed to below the right-hand side of the small oak tree at the top.
7. Foxy 9m 5b Start just over 1 m left of the aręte and below a recess in the bottom half of the wall. Climb the wall to the small recess below the overlap. Gain the twin crack lines above and climb, trending to the left to finish at the same place as Distemper Wall. An easier start is to climb the aręte until it is possible to traverse left to each the twin cracks above the overlap. This reduces the overall standard to 4b.
The Main Wall This wall extends rightwards from the aręte and forms a 15m corner at its junction with the next section. All of the following climbs terminate at 10-12m in height according to the description. A 50m rope is desirable for top-roping purposes. Some routes may have a bolt in situ below the shale band.
8. Bloodhound 4b * Climb the aręte, starting on its right side.
9. Watch Dog 5b * Start 4m right of the aręte. Climb the unpleasant wall to the ledge via a letterbox pocket. From the diagonal crack on the wall above, move left and up to reach the horizontal crack. Strenuous climbing leads straight up over the block overhang at the top.
The next section of wall whose base lies within the confines of a long pit like depression extends rightwards from the corner. Trees above are useful for top roping. This wall has many features, most of which are indistinct. However with the descriptions and a quick inspection from the top of the bank forming the outer side of the pit, it is possible to pick out the complexities of the routes.
10. The Snarl 5b * Start 2m right of the corner at some red paint splashes. Climb the wall, which is undercut at the base keeping just right of the paint splashes to reach a niche below a small overhang. Move up and right into a shallow, square recess and out of it to the right via shot marks moving left. Finish by stepping right onto a good ledge.
11. The Growl 5b/c Start a little over 4m right of the corner below an overhanging nose lust out of reach. Pull up with difficulty on the right then move back left above the nose. The thin crack is climbed before pulling right to a small ledge in a V-groove at 8m. From here step left and climb into a shallow recess and continue straight up to a roof-capped sentry box at 15m.
Moving right a contorted Ash tree is a feature, growing from the steep bank in front of the crag. On the crag face opposite this at 3m is a diagonally aligned fin of rock below the overlap.
12. The Eyrie 5c Start below a V-groove, which splits the overlap almost 3m above, the ground about 2m left of the diagonal fin of rock. Climb this groove and the crack above to a small ledge at 9m. Traverse right for a short distance until it is possible to climb the bulging wall until a step right can be made onto a sloping ledge at 15m.
13. The Whimper 5b Start just over 1m right of the V-groove, below a prominent diagonally aligned block beneath the overhang. Climb directly up the wall via this, passing a small bulge. Continue up the slightly overhanging wall, passing to the right of an unusual rounded boulder puddingstone to reach a ledge at 15m.
14. Mad Dog 5b * Start in front to the contorted Ash and below the diagonally aligned block beneath the overhang. Climb over the overhang and traverse right to gain the bottom of a vertical crack. Climb the crack to a good ledge.
The slim wall between the crack of Mad Dogs and the left-hand of the twin cracks taken by The Bark and The Bite respectively is ascended by Plague Dogs.
15. Plague Dogs 6b Start below the wall to the right of the vertical crack of Mad Dog Surmount the overhang at 3m with difficulty onto a small ledge and climb the bulging wall to reach the large ledge at 12m.
16. The Bark 6a Start right of Plague Dogs at a chest-high overlap. Above is a small ledge with cracks leading up from it. Climb onto the ledge at its right-hand end. Step left and climb the slightly overhanging left-hand crack to a ledge.
17. The Bite 5c Start as for The Bark. From the ledge, climb the right-hand crack to the large ledge above triangular overhang. Follow The Bark to the recess and bolt lowering point.
18. The Howl 5c Start 3m right of The Bark below a block, which protrudes from beneath an overhang 14m up the face.
Climb up past very thin, twisting cracks where the overlap diminishes and step right and up to a small recess. Climb the crackling to the protruding block and use this to surmount the overhang. Gain the V recess above.
19. Hound Trial 5a Start 2m right of The Howl at a 1m high vertical crack. Climb up for 2m and move left to a small pocket recess. Climb the vertical crack of The Howl for 2m until a ledge above is gained. Continue traversing left to a large ledge and over into the recess.
20. The Whine 5c ** Start 2m right of Hound Trial below a small, tapering, hanging come-just above head height. Climb the wall left of this corner to a narrow ledge and follow the crack lines from its right-hand end direct to where the wall overhangs. Step left and climb the weakness in the overhang, trending up left via a ragged crack line and shallow groove.
21. The Bitch 5b * Start as for The Whine below the hanging corner. Climb up to the corner and follow two parallel cracks leading to a bulging, cracked block. Gain the narrow ledge above direct or by moving first left them traversing right. Climb the wall above into large V-recess. Exit the recess through the roof on the right to a ledge.
22. The Wolf 5b Start 2m left of the first aręte on the right below a recessed groove whose walls diverge. Climb the groove to a small ledge and continue up the recessed groove using the right-hand of the parallel cracks to some overhanging blocks. Climb the blocks to a ledge on the right.
23. Hardpad 5a Start in the corner to the right of the first aręte. Climb the corner for 11m until it is possible to move left onto a small ledge on the aręte.
24. Vixen 5c ** Start 2m right of Hardpad and just left of the second aręte at a vertical crack. Climb the crack and where it ends continue direct to another short, vertical crack which in turn leads to a bulging wall. Move up and rightwards.
Left of here the quarry deteriorates into some cave entrances with messy rock above, It is best to walk right through the caves to the next buttress. The name says it all.
Graffiti Buttress
25. Watercolour Corner 4b Start 2m right of the aręte in a recessed corner. Climb the corner to the top.
26. Daubers’ Delight 4c Start on the right side of the knife-edged aręte, 2m right of the recessed Watercolour Corner. Climb up the wall to the right of the large nose on the aręte at 6m and pull onto the top of it. Continue up the aręte until a traverse can be made onto the large ledge of Watercolour Corner.
27. Nom De Plume 4c * Start 1m right of the knife-edged aręte by an Oak tree. Climb up the cracks passing a recess to reach a roof at 11m. Step right and pull onto the ledge above.
28. Initial Wall 5a Start 4m right of Nom De Plume below a thin, vertical crack in the centre of the buttress. Climb up the crack to a ledge at 4m. Continue to a smaller ledge and on up past a small recess to a long ledge at the start of the shale bands.
29. Doodler 5a Start below an overlap at head height. Climb the thin cracks above the overlap to the right end of a ledge at 4m. Climb the wall above up a staircase of small ledges to a small roof. Move up right into a V groove, which leads to the ledge below the shale bands.
30. Heavy Make-up 5c * Start 3m right of Doodler below a vertical crack line that ends at 6m. Climb the vertical crack line through the bulging wall. Pull up on a good jug to reach holds on the wall above and climb the shallow corner up to the shale bands.
31. Brushline 5b ** Start as for Heavy Make-up below the vertical crack. Climb the crack until a hand traverse can be made rightwards to its edge below a bulge with a slim, shot-mark. Climb the bulge and crack above to a ledge at 12m.
32. Heavy Breathing 6a Start at the foot of a rib 2m right of Brushline. Climb up to the inside edge of the first cave entrance right of Graffiti Buttress and move left on to the outer edge of the roof. Move back right to beneath the corner in the roof and pull into it with difficulty continuing straight up to the shale bands. Alternative Start: Climb the outer edge of the cave entrance to the roof (5c).
The First PillarThe next two climbs are on the first pillar to the right of the cave.
33. Obscene Phone-call 6a Climb the left, inside face of the First Pillar to the roof (Bolt Runner). Pull round right onto the face and climb straight up to the shale bands.
34. Corinthian 5b ** Climb the crack on the front of the First Pillar to the recess at the top. Climb up and left out of the recess to a small, narrow ledge below another shallow recess. Move up right via a break in the overhanging wall and reach a ledge.
The Second PillarThe next route is located on the Second Pillar, which is right of the second cave entrance.
35. Lipstick Traces 5c * Climb the front face of the Second Pillar moving to the left edge to pull onto a ledge at 7m. Move up left to traverse above the second cave to reach holds on the wall right of Corinthian.
The Edge of Darkness AreaThe final clutch of steep and powerful routes all lead up to the in situ chain lower off.
36. Rising Dawn 6b Start at the aręte to the left of the niche on the left wall of the pillar Climb the aręte on its right-hand side and move up diagonally right to gain a pit-prop. Move out left to cracks in the bulge and by means of a vertical shot-mark to the left of the cracks, gain a good hold. Move back right and up to lowering chains. Sustained.
37. Edge of Darkness 6b Start at the aręte as for Rising Dawn. Climb rightwards into the niche and up onto a sloping ledge. Climb the overhanging wall past a slot and move right onto the right-hand wall to the pillar above the rough cave entrance making some strenuous moves on poor holds to react easier ledges.
38. Rib & Roof 6a * Start on the right-hand face of the Third Pillar. Climb up and left to the roof then using a horizontal finger crack, swing out right to reach good jugs below the hanging corner. Climb the corner with difficulty to reach good ledges. Alternative Start: Climb the outer edge of the pillar direct to the roof.
39. Wildman 5b ** Start as for Rib & Roof. Climb up for 3m and traverse to the let outside the edge of the pillar below the hanging corner. Follow a series of handholds up to the left on the overhanging wall to a small inset block, above and right of bolt runner. Pull up past the block and move up right to a ledge.
Gallery:
Karin Magog on the popular low level traverse in the trough below the Main Wall
Simon Gee top roping on the Main Wall
Karin bouldering out Rib and Roof Direct Start.
Full details in the North East England Guide
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